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Trimming, Grading, Clipping & Notching Seams. Trimming, Grading and Clipping Seams. Trimming. To cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Trim away 3/8 inch of fabric along the full length of the seam. Grading. Means to trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width.
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Trimming • To cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. • Trim away 3/8 inch of fabric along the full length of the seam.
Grading • Means to trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width. • Trimming the seam reduces bulk more smoothly.
Clipping • Means to cut slits into the seam allowance. • Needed on all seams with an inside curve. • Usually done at ½ inch intervals at a 90°angle.
REASONS • If seam lines tend to pucker or look bulky. • Want seams on a finished garment to appear smooth.
Notching • Means to cut wedges into the seam allowance. • Is done on seams with an outside curve. • Removes excess fabric that otherwise cause the seam to be bulky when turned.
Trimming -cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Method of Trimming -trim away ⅜ of an inch of fabric along the full length of the seam. -this will leave a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Grading -cutting layers of a seam allowance to varying (different) widths.
Method of Grading -trim each seam allowance to a different width -garment seam allowance is left widest -facing seam allowance is trimmed narrowest -layers in between, trimmed more than the garment, but less than the facing
Clipping -to cut slits into the seam allowance. -needed on all seams with an inside (inward) curve.
Purpose of clipping -seam will turn over smoothly. -curved seams not clipped, will pucker when turned.
Method of Clipping -use points of shears - cut into seam allowance at right angles to seam line -cuts should be ½” apart, cutting almost to the seam line. -inside corners clip diagonally from seam edge to stitching
Notching -cut wedges into the seam allowance. -needed on all seams with an outside (outward) curve.
Purpose of Notching -remove excess fabric – if not removed will cause the seam to be bulky when turned.
Method of Notching -v-shaped cuts (wedges) that are cut at ½” apart to the seam line.
Trimming Corners -corners are trimmed diagonally across the corner.
Method of Trimming -trim excess fabric from the sides of a point at an angle.