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No- Tox Botox : Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained. Moderator: Jessica Rubino , Senior Associate Editor, Delicious Living Dr . Linda Miles, L. Ac. DOM, Derma e Bodycare Chris Fields, VP Technology & Science NutriCosmetics /AFS Hyperpigmentation Collagen/Elastin
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No-Tox Botox: Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained Moderator: Jessica Rubino, Senior Associate Editor, Delicious Living Dr. Linda Miles, L. Ac. DOM, Derma e Bodycare Chris Fields, VP Technology & Science NutriCosmetics /AFS Hyperpigmentation Collagen/Elastin Fine lines/Wrinkles Inflammation Overall skin health
No-Tox Botox: Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained Hyperpigmentation Inflammation Overall skin health
PhotoDamage – Sun Protection Stratum Corneum: thick and dehydrated Reduced Cell Turnover Cells remain on the surface longer Cellular mitosis creates abnormal keratinocytes Epidermal structure becomes disorganized Melanocytes over-produce melanosomes Hyperpigmentation Damaged collagen and elastin weakens dermal connective tissue Elasticity degradation Skin cells are Misshaped & disorganized Excess melanin Causing uneven Skin tone Collagen & elastin fibers become weak & damaged
Avenanthramide (ug/ml) - MOA Agents with adjunctive therapeutic potential in atopic dermatitis Wallo et al, 65th Annual AAD, Feb 2006, Washington DC
Avenanthramides- Clinical Evidence Oat Avenanthramides: new actives to reduce itch sensation in skin. Schmaus Et al, 23rdCongress of Intr Fed of Soc Cos Chemists, Oct 2006 Orlando FL
Feverfew Tierney et al – 63rd Annual Meeting of the AAD – inhibition of UV Radiation induced erythema Liebel et al, ADD Feb 2005 – demonstrated strong anti-inflammatory properties Nebus et al ADD Feb 2005 – Significant improvement in erythema (n=31)
Glycyrrhiza- Licorice Anti-bacteria Anti-protozoan Anti-tumor Depigmentation ANTI-INFLAMMATORY: Razor Test Shaved Skin UV Induced Erythema Test Hemoglobin reflectance Cytokine production Focus on Erythema, measure skin redness of shaven skin using reflectance spectroscopy Anti-inflammatory efficacy of Licochalcone A Kolbe et al Arch Dermatol Res (2008)
Hyperpigmentation Two Forms of Melanin produced in the Epidermis: Pheomelanin Eumelanin Melanin Biosynthesis (melanogenesis) Genetics Environmental Lifestyle Medications Production Action of the Enzyme Tyrosinase Copper Oxygen Sulfur
Melanin Production Glycosylation + sugar Pigmentation pathway: Tyrosinase Inhibition Inhibition of melanin/melanosome transport into keratinocytes Increased Epidermal turnover Signals: UV Irritation Hormones Radicals Tyrosine Melanin is packed into melanosomes Keratinocytes
Glycation Inhibitors: N-acetyl glucosamine Gene production inhibitors: retinoids Melanin Production Signal Reduction: Sunscreen, AA Glycosylation + sugar Pigmentation pathway: Tyrosinase Inhibition Inhibition of melanin/melanosome transport into keratinocytes Increased Epidermal turnover Signals: UV Irritation Hormones Radicals Tyrosine Activity Inhibitors: Kojic Acid Arbutin Licorice Melanin is packed into melanosomes Melanosome Transfer Inhibition: Niacinamide, Soy Protein Keratinocytes
Active Soy Performance Efficacy of Soy Moisturizer in PhotoAging, Wallo et al, JDD, Sept 2007
Erigeron breviscapus Depigmentation of Melanocytes by Matricaria Acid Methyl Ester isolated from Erigeron breviscapus. Luo et al, Biol Pharm Bull 32(6) 2009
Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizer with combination Of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind study Kimball et al., B J Dermatol, 2010, 162(2)
Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizer with combination Of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind study Kimball et al., B J Dermatol, 2010, 162(2)
Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine Dual Sites of Activation N-acetyl glucosamine – Inhibits Tyrosinase Niacinamide – Inhibits the transfer of melanin- containing melanosomes to the outer layers.
Inflammation+Hyperpigmentation:Combination therapies Dr. Raval, MD Raval Facial Aesthetics, Rocky Mountain Laser Clinic, 2011 CDG = Glucarate 3 w/w% GCA = Green Coffee Extract (50% CA) 3 w/w% Combination CDG+GCA (3 w/w%)
Sunscreen Advances UVA / UVB Absorption Zinc Oxide / Titanium Dioxide Photostabilizers – Octocrylene Avobenzone Ecamsule Antioxidants – Reduce ROS Green Tea Soy Vitamin C
Pisum Sativum Extract Pisum Sativum Extract for Safe & Self-tanning, Imbert et al Cosmetics & Toiletries August, 2009 V124.