Basic Techniques of Pet Care

1. Approaching Solutions to Everyday Problems With Your Pet Basic Techniques of Pet Care

2. Intro Pet owners are faced with everyday problems like ear infections, cut paws, or upset stomachs. These basic techniques apply to hundreds of dog and cat conditions. In dramatic situations, they can save your pet’s life

3. Pain Signs of pain in dogs and cats can be pretty subtle. You must be alert to changes in behavior to determine if your pet is indeed in pain. Dogs tend to be more vocal and may yelp, hold a hurt paw, or limp. Cats more often simply hide and refuse to move. Other signs can include panting, drooling, refusing to eat, “hunching” or tucking up a painful stomach, “bowing” a painful neck, flinching when touched, or squinting if an eye is painful or watery.

4. Pain If you suspect spine problems or fractures, don’t use any pain medication for first aid. Since the most common pain relievers can make bleeding worse, do not give as first aid when you aren’t sure about the extent of the problem. NEVER give aspirin to cats. Veterinarians have much more effective and safer pain medicines that they can give to pets once a diagnosis has been made.

5. Pain Treatment However, there are some effective and safe pain treatments that you can safely use as first aid. Cortaid contains steroids that reduce painful inflammation. It works well on minor cuts and scrapes or insect stings. Products containing benzocaine, like Lanacane or Solarcaine, contain topical anesthetics that numb the pain of sunburn and mouth sores. Benozcaine should not be used on cats. Hot compresses work well on sore joints caused by arthritis Ice numbs the pain of nearly any skin injury, bruise, or burn within minutes.

6. Restraint To examine an injury to your pet, you likely will need to restrain the animal. A humane restraint serves three purposes: 1. it protects you from being bitten or clawed while administering first aid 2. it restricts your pet’s movements to prevent further injury 3. it keeps your pet in one place so that the injury can be examined and treated

7. Muzzles Any pet will bite as a reflex when hurt While commercial muzzles are available, a home-made muzzle can be nearly or equally as effective

8. Muzzles - short nosed animals Cats and short-nosed dogs (like pugs) are a concern are a challenge because they do not have enough of a nose to tie shut. In this case, one of the best muzzles is a pillowcase. To make a pillowcase muzzle: Fit a cloth bag over the pet’s head and gently hold it around the neck The fabric will keep the teeth engaged and pets often stop struggling once they can’t see You can also pull the case over the pets body as necessary to contain the front legs and/or paws Allow the affected body part to stick out of the pillowcase for access Some treatments, such as a cool water soak for heat stroke, can be done through the pillowcase

9. Muzzles – long nosed dogs You can use any piece of material from a necktie or length of gauze to a panty hose or extra leash Loop the material around your pet’s jaw and tie it in a single knot (half-hitch) on top of his nose. Then bring both ends of the tie back down under his jaw and tie another single knot. Finally, pull the ends behind the base of his neck and tie them in a bow or knot.

10. Restraint Techniques Each form of restraint works best for a specific type of injury The selected technique should leave the injured area accessible for treatment If possible, have one person restrain the animal while another performs the first aid. It is best to place small pets on a counter or tabletop so that they are at waist level Medium or large dogs are best treated on the floor.

11. Reclining Restraint Place your pet on his side, with the injured area facing up. With one hand, grasp the ankle of the foreleg that’s against the ground while gently pressing your forearm across his shoulders. With the other hand, grasp the ankle of the hind leg that’s against the ground while pressing that forearm across his hips. This technique works best for medium-large dogs and/or dogs with prominent eyes (e.g. Pekingese) Holding these types of dogs around the neck produces pressure that may pop out their eyeballs

12. Reclining Restraint Proper techniques for reclining restraint

13. Stretch Restraint With cats and small dogs, grasp your pet by the loose skin at the back of the neck (scruff) with one hand Capture both hind feet with the other hand. Gently stretch out your pet and hold it against a tabletop

14. Hugging Restraint Bring one arm underneath and around your dog’s neck (like a half nelson) to hug him to your chest With the other arm, reach under and around his chest and pull him closer against you. This technique works best for dogs over 20 lbs and is most useful when trying to immobilize the abdomen, chest, legs, and back.

15. Hugging Restraint

16. Kneeling Restraint Pressure around the necks of dogs with prominent eyes (e.g. Pekingese) may pop out their eyeballs. Instead of restraining with a neck grip or by the scruff, put your dog on the floor between your knees facing away from you as you kneel. Put one hand on top of your dog’s head and the other around or beneath his jaws to steady his head while another person treats this area. This method also works for giving pills to cats.

17. Elizabethan Collars Elizabethan Collars (or E-collars) prevent dogs and cats from reaching injuries with their teeth. They also protect facial sores from pawing or scratching nails. You can get them at pet-supply stores, catalogs, or from a vet. They can also be home-made.

18. Making an E-collar 1. Measure the pet’s neck and the distance from his collar to the tip of his nose 2. Mark these measurements on a piece of rigid cardboard or plastic. 3. Make a V-shaped cut from the outer edge to the inner circle. 4. Use a knitting needle or awl to punch holes along both edges of the collar. 5. Lace a shoe string or yarn through the holes to secure the collar around your pet’s neck.

19. E-collars

20. General Care Pilling Liquid Medicine Medicating Pet’s Ears Medicating Pet’s Eyes Cleansing Wounds & the Immune System Bandages Making a Splint Making a Cast Grooming Bathing

21. Pilling Dogs often take pills willingly when they’re hidden in treats like peanut butter or cheese However, some dogs and most cats will swallow the treat and spit out the pill To give a dog a pill, circle the top of his snout with your hand, pressing both sides of the jaw along the gum line behind the large, pointed canine teeth This will prompt the dog to open its mouth When its mouth is open, push the pill over the “hill” of the tongue, close its mouth, and stroke its throat until it swallows. Follow the pill with a treat so that he forgets to spit it out.

22. Pilling - Cats This same technique can work for cats; if it doesn’t: Grasp the loose fur at the scruff of the cat’s neck and pull its head back until its head points at the ceiling. Its mouth will automatically drop open Pull down the jaw with one finger Drop the pill into its mouth at the back of the tongue Aim for the V-shape in the center of the cats tongue Butter or margarine on the pill can help it slide down Close its mouth and watch for it to swallow Cats usually lick their nose after swallow

25. Cats (cont) You can also crush the pill into a powder and mix it with strong-smelling cat food Never give your pet any over-the-counter medication without clearing it with your veterinarian first! The smaller size and different metabolism of cats make aspirin a dangerous proposition for them. Acetaminophen, the active ingredient in Tylenol, can kill your cat, as can some of the newer, longer-lasting painkillers available in nonprescription form for human use. If your pet is in pain, call your veterinarian immediately. Cats in particular are very stoic, and if you're noticing your pet's discomfort, he's really suffering and needs immediate care. As for chronic pain, your veterinarian can prescribe something that's effective and pet-safe.

26. Pill Syringes Pill syringes are hollow plastic dispensers available at pet supply stores. They make it easier to get a pill into a pet’s mouth. To use a pill syringe, place your cat on a table or countertop and put one hand on top of its head, circling its muzzle with your fingers. Press its lips back against the teeth behind the canine teeth to make it open wide.

27. Pill Syringe With the other hand, lay the pill-laden syringe on its tongue so that the exit end points at the back of its throat but does not quite touch it. Push the plunger to release the pill Withdraw the syringe After giving the pill, hold your pet’s mouth closed and stroke its throat (or gently blow on the nose) to make it swallow.

28. Liquid Medicines A needleless syringe will often accompany a prescribed liquid medicine Draw up the designated amount. Insert the tip into the corner of the pet’s mouth. Slowly squirt the medicine into its cheek Keep its head tipped up so that gravity allows the medicine to flow in the right direction. Stroke its throat until you see it swallow You may need to give just a few drops at a time An eyedropper can work in absence of a syringe

30. Medicating Pet’s Ears The ear canals of pets are long and curved; it takes a special technique to get the medicine where it needs to go. Usually, ear medication is a liquid or ointment To apply it, tip your pet’s head up so that the opening of th affected ear points upward. Put several drops of medicine in the ear canal, then firmly grasp the pet’s earflap so that it doesn’t immediately shake its head and lose the medicine from the ear. Use the other hand to massage the base of the ear. You should hear a squishing sound indicating that the medicine is spreading through the inner canal.

32. Medicating Pet’s Eyes Eye medication is also usually a liquid or ointment Apply eye medication in the same way as you would ear medication. Tip the pet’s head so that it’s looking at the ceiling. Pull down the lower eyelid on the affected eye and drop or squirt several drops of the medicine into the cupped tissue. Release the eyelid Let your pet blink several times. This will naturally spread the medicine over the eye surface wherever it’s needed.

33. What’s wrong?

34. Cleaning Wounds & Bandaging Anytime the skin is broken, bacterial infection is a risk. Why? Even fur from the pet itself could be a contaminant and cause infection. Bleeding is a natural cleansing mechanism and can help flush out dangerous materials. DO NOT clean wounds the bleed excessively; this will cause them to bleed more. For wounds that aren’t bleeding heavily, cleansing is needed to prevent infection.

35. Cleansing wounds If the pet has long fur, clip it to prevent it from getting into the wound or sticking to it. If using a scissors, hold the fur with your index and middle finger and clip above them, leaving a 1 inch border around the wound. If the skin is broken, dab on a lubricant (water soluble, e.g. KY) – the trimmed fur will stick to the jelly and wash out easily

36. Cleansing Usually the injury will be painful and even gentle pressure will cause pain Muzzles! The best way to cleanse a wound is to flush it with cool water or sterile saline contact lens solution to float out debris. If need be, you could use the spray attachment on a kitchen sink, or even a garden hose.

37. Antiseptic For serious wounds, follow-up with a non-stinging antiseptic solution to disinfect the wound. Dilute it with sterile distilled water until it is the color of weak tea. Put this solution in a plant sprayer or clean, sterile watering can and spray or dilute the area thoroughly. Once the wound has been disinfected gently dab it clean with gauze or a clean, lint-free cloth. See a vet for serious injuries.

38. Mechanisms of Healing How healing works: Healing begins with vasoconstriction — blood vessels leading to the wound tighten to reduce the flow of blood to the injured area. Platelets (triggered by enzymes leaked from the torn blood vessel) rush to the scene. These sticky blood cells clump to each other and then adhere to the sides of the torn blood vessel, making a plug. Clotting proteins in the blood join forces to form a fibrin net that holds the platelet plug in place over the tear, In a few seconds or minutes (depending on how bad the scrape is), the bleeding will stop due to coagulation. The fibrin plug becomes a scab that will eventually fall off or be reabsorbed into the body once healing is complete.

39. Bodily prevention of infection Once bleeding has been controlled, the next step is stopping infection The blood vessels that were constricted now dilate to bring white blood cells rushing to the scene. White blood cells engulf and destroy any germs that may have gotten into the body through the open wound.

40. Healing and Rebuilding When blood loss and infection have been treated, the body turns its attention to healing and rebuilding: Fibroblasts (cells that are capable of forming skin and other tissue) gather at the site of injury and begin to produce collagen, which will eventually fill in the wound under the scab and create new capillaries to bring oxygen-rich blood to the recovering wound. Skin along the edges of the wound becomes thicker and then gradually migrates (or stretches) under the scab to the center of the wound, where it meets skin from the other side and forms a scar (about three weeks after the initial injury). Scar tissue will become stronger and fade gradually over the next several years as more collagen is added, but will only have about 80 percent of the strength of the original skin.

41. Factors in healing Not all wounds heal equally. Generally speaking, more serious wounds take longer to heal. Individual factors also influence how quickly your body is able to recover from a wound, including: Age — younger pets usually heal faster than older folks Nutrition — a pet’s body needs a good supply of vitamin C to make collagen. Over-conditioned pets will heal more slowly Smoking — if an owner smokes, the healing rate of a pet will decrease Stress — large amounts of stress can delay the healing process (poor diet, poor care, improper bedding, etc.) Other infections or illnesses — diabetes, thyroid disease, high blood pressure, and poor circulation, for example, can decrease a pet’s body's ability to heal Wounds that are slow to heal could be symptomatic of greater problems. Source – Columbia University Health Services

42. Assignment You are tutoring at an elementary school, and Kibbles, the school hamster, just got scratched by Bits, the class cobra. Kibbles is fine, but he has a nasty scratch that is bleeding. You stop the bleeding, but the students are worried. In one page or less, completely explain how the body heals itself to an elementary school audience. Cite your sources! These are nosy kids – they want proof that you’re right! You will need to use outside sources! Avoid big words – these are 10 year-olds. If you do use a big word, be sure to explain it with smaller words.

43. Bandaging Many injuries heal when they are allowed to have contact with open air. Bandages can be necessary in certain cases, especially with heavy bleeding. Bandagers serve 5 key functions; they… Keep wounds dry Absorb wound seepage to promote healing Control bleeding with mild pressure Keep a pet from causing further injury via chewing or licking Shield the wound from later contamination

44. Bandaging Bandages must be changed every day or two The wound must be kept clean and dry between changes Swelling above or below the bandage means it is on too tight. If your pet suddenly starts licking or chewing the bandage, or if there’s a bad smell, remove the bandage immediately to be sure there is not an infection or other problem. Yes, smell the bandage daily If a bandage is needed, most likely a veterinarian will need to be seen Bandages are a short term solution until treatment from a vet is available.

45. Bandages Bandages have 3 parts Absorbent Pad Gauze Tape All three are needed for an effective bandage

46. Absorbent Pad This part is necessary to prevent infection and reduce “stickage” Sterile nonstick pads like Tefla work best; any absorbent material that is clean and lint free is fine Paper towels and other paper products tend to stick to wounds and can cause damage when removed If this is all that is available, KY over the injury under the paper towel will reduce later injury.

47. Gauze Gauze exists to hold the absorbent pad in place. Gauze is likely the easiest way to cause further injury if it is applied too tight This can cause the injury to swell cutting off blood circulation and reducing the immune response How? If you can’t easily slip one or two fingers under the bandage, it is too tight. Try to overlap the gauze by a 1/3 of its width with each time around.

48. Gauze If you don’t have gauze, other elastic type materials work to temporarily hold the pad in place until gauze can be retrieved The leg from a panty hose would be an example of a material that would work if need be.

49. Tape Tape secures the gauze and pad in a specific place on the pet’s body Elastic adhesive bandages work best. If none is available, and adhesive tape is better than none If you have no adhesive tape, nonadhesive substances such as Saran Wrap can work temporarily. In fact, a pet may tolerate this more because it sticks to itself and not to the fur Be sure that the tape covers a portion of the fur on both sides of the bandage so that it will stay in place and cannot be worked loose and removed.

50. Tape As with the gauze, make sure it is not too tight Use the two finger test to ensure a proper fit Remember, a wound needs to breathe!

51. Specific Bandages Paws and paw pads Legs Tail Ears Neck Chest and Shoulders Hips and Flanks Body bandages