The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

1. 1920-1947 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

2. Historical Background The Twenties • In the wake of WWI, many European nations were weakened and became smaller in size • The Communists emerged in Russia led by Vladimir Lenin followed by Josef Stalin • Benito Mussolini came in to power in 1922 in Italy • The United States, conversely, settled into a period of unequaled prosperity Benito Mussolini The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII Josef Stalin

3. American Prosperity The Twenties • Automobiles were top-selling consumer goods • Radios began commercial broadcasting in 1922 • Higher education was booming • The chain store took hold and helped drive down the prices of consumer goods • Installment buying took hold • Airline passenger service was beginning by the end of the 1920s The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

4. Changes in Social Life The Twenties • WWI left people wondering if their efforts had been justified • The 18th Amendment passed in 1920 • The changing roles of women resulted in a revolution of morals and values • Romantic cynics like F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote characters who followed a ceaseless round of parties and pleasures • The revolution of morality was evident in the behavior of the young, particularly young women The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

5. Visual Arts & Costume Art Deco Spire of the Chrysler Building, NYC. Designed by William Van Alen, built 1920-1930 Erté, 1920s Christ the Redeemer, built 1922-1931 Rio de Janeiro The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

6. Visual Arts & Costume Surrealism René Magritte False Mirror, 1928 Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1932 Fabric design by Salvador Dali The Persistence of Memory, 1931 Salvador Dali The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

7. Visual Arts & Costume Motion Pictures Jean Harlow Mae West Joan Crawford The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII Charlie Chaplin

8. Undergarments Costume for Women: 1920-1930 Brassiere, 1923 Corset, 1923 Step-in Chemise, 1923 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

9. Evolution of the waistline, hipline, and hemline Costume for Women: 1920-1930 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

10. Costume for Women: 1920-1930 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

11. The “Flapper” Costume for Women: 1920-1930 WhereThere’sSmokeThere’sFire by Russell Patterson

12. Undergarments Costume for Women: 1930-1947 Brassiere and Girdle, 1930s Slip and Panties, 1934 Brassiere, WWII Made of printedcalico

13. Costume for Women: 1930-1947

14. French Couture Madame Grés Gabrielle Coco Chanel Elsa Schiaparelli Madeleine Vionnet • Heim • Lanvin • Rochas • Other Notables • Mainbocher • Molyneux • Patou • Piguet • Nina Ricci • Rouff • Lucien Lelong • Fortuny The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

15. American Designers Mainbocher Haper’sBazaar 1937 Claire McCardell Adrian Joan Crawford in Letty Lynton On the Rise: Norman Norell Pauline Trigére The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

16. General Limitation Order L-85 • General Restrictions… • More thantwo articles of apparelat one unit price • Anygarment of multiple units, whichcontainswoolcloth to besoldat a unit price • French cuffs on sleeves • Double materialyokes • Balloon, dolman, or leg-of-muttonsleeves • Fabricswhich have been reducedfromnomalwidth or length by overalltucking, shirring, or pleating, except for minortrimmings • Inside pockets of woolcloth • Patch pockets of woolcloth on a linedwoolclothgarment • Interliningscontaininganyvirgin or reprocessedwool • Specific Restrictions for Misses • No coatswithseparateor attached cape, hood, muff, scarf, or bag or hat • No daytime or evening dresses with a separate or attachedbeltexceeding 2 inches in width • No evening dresses or suits or skirts and culottes with a hem exceeding 2 inches in width • No jackets withsleevescut on the bias or withcuffs on long sleeves • No slackswith a cuff World War II The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

17. Théâtre de la Mode The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII