Tailor Talk Tailoring Terms You Should Know

1. Tailor Talk: Tailoring Terms You Should Know

2. In tailoring, like with most industries, if you’re not familiar with the terminology used, it can get pretty overwhelming for the clients. Plus, at times, it can be difficult for a tailor to communicate with a client regarding their garments. • Alterations: • This is a term you all are probably familiar with, alterations refer to the last adjustments in the final stages of creating the garment. • Bias Cut: • A bias cut is when a fabric is cut diagonally across the grain (ie. at a 45° angle). At this angle, the ‘warp’ and ‘weft’ threads give the fabric more of an elastic ‘stretch.’ Fabric on a bias cut makes it more fluid and helps is accentuate body curves.

3. Basting: • This is basically tacking garments with long stitches. It’s a method used for temporarily holding fabric together, often used for a ¾ fitting of a garment or on hard to work with (slippery) fabrics. • Bespoke: • This is our forte, and it means that everything is made specifically for the individual. The garments are handcrafted from scratch and made to fit the client’s body and specifications. From the fabric to the style details, everything is customized so that the client may get the suit that is imagined by him/her. • Binding: • The act of stitching tape around the bottoms of trousers to combat fraying is known as binding. This prevents the constant friction between the fabric and the material of the shoe, thus increasing the durability of the garment.

4. Darts: • Darts enable flat fabric to provide shape to a garment. These are folds that are sewn into the fabric of the garment to allow the fabric to be more shapely. • Double breasted: • This kind of coat jacket features one side overlapping over the front and has two coloumns of buttons - a look we love. • French bearer: • The purpose of this is to keep your trousers looking neat and to create comfort for the wearer. This little button is placed behind the fly and is used to keep the front part of the trousers in place. • Hem: • The hem is a neat tuck which is sewn into place to prevent your garment from coming apart. A hem is important for all your garments, and you can decide how you like it if you opt for bespoke.

5. Inseam: • The important distance between your inner crotch and the inner ankle is known as the inseam. It contributes to the fit and feel of your pants. • Interfacing: • The interfacing (not to be confused with interlining), is fabric used to create stiffness and add more body to certain areas of the the garment. The interfacing is used on the ‘wrong’ side of the fabric and is typically used in collars, cuffs, pocket flaps, and other locations that require extra support. • Selvedge • The selvedge is the edge on woven fabric that prevents it from fraying or unravelling. In our bespoke suits you’ll find a strip of the selvedge sewn into the back of the pant opening which enables you to refer to the fabric used on your suits (as well as to prevent your pant from wearing quickly as it rubs on the back of your shoes).

6. Contact Us Address: G/F, 214 Bridge Road, Richmond, Victoria, 3121 Call:03 9429 7617 Website:www.thesuitconcierge.com Email:info@thesuitconcierge.com