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Stitching by Machine

Stitching by Machine. Part 4. Stitching Lengths. Basting Temporarily holds Very long, 6 stitches per inch Standard Permanent seams 10 – 12 stitches per inch Reinforcement Add strength to areas Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch). Types of Machine Stitching. Stay-stitching

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Stitching by Machine

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  1. Stitching by Machine Part 4

  2. Stitching Lengths • Basting • Temporarily holds • Very long, 6 stitches per inch • Standard • Permanent seams • 10 – 12 stitches per inch • Reinforcement • Add strength to areas • Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch)

  3. Types of Machine Stitching • Stay-stitching • Prevents stretching as you handle fabric • Placed on bias and curved edges • Directional stitching • Prevents seam from stretching or changing as you stitch • Stitch with the grain

  4. Standard seam stitching • 5/8 of an inch • Almost all patterns • Backstitching • Secures ends of a row of stitching • Stitch back and then forward again

  5. Understitching • Keeps facing from rolling out • 1/8 inch • On right side of fabric, see figure 12-5 page 503 • Topstitching • Decorative and functional • Outlines seams, secures facing, holds hems • See Figure 12.6 Page 503

  6. Edge stitching • Holds fabric and seams in place • Topstitching very close to finished edge • Zippers and neck edges figure 12.8 • Stitch-in-the-ditch • Holds two or more layers together • Secure neckline, armhole, etc • On the outside in the groove of the seam line 12-9

  7. Zigzag stitching • Used to finish seams, buttonholes, attach cording • Decorative designs 12-10 • Specialty stitches • Decorative

  8. Before You Sew • Practice sewing on scrap material • Is the stitch length correct? • Are stitches correct width? • Is the tension right? • Needle smooth and straight? • Presser foot firm and tight? • Handwheel tightened after winding the bobbin?

  9. Unit Construction • Unit construction – complete individual parts as fully as possible before sewing them together • Complete stay stitching etc

  10. Removing Stitches • Mistakes happen • Remove with seam ripper, thread clippers or small scissors

  11. Hand Sewing • Thread a needle • Usually single thread • Make a knot as shown on page 506 figure 13.1

  12. Types of Hand Stitching • Basting stitch • Temporary stitching that marks or holds pieces together • Removed when permanent stitching is done • Two types • Uneven (13-3) and even (13-2)

  13. Running stitch • Simplest • Gather, ease, tuck, quilt • Use where little or no strain See figure 13.4 Page 507 • Backstitch • Strongest hand stitch • Repair machine stitch seams and fasten thread ends (13-5)

  14. Pick stitch • Variation of the backstitch • Used to insert zippers (13-6) • Slip stitch • almost invisible • Can attach one folded edge to another • Patch pockets, hems, linings, etc (13-7)

  15. Over cast • Prevents raw edges from unraveling • Diagonal stitches over edge of fabric (13-8) • Hemming stitch • Slanted stitch • Finishing stitch (13-9)

  16. Blind stitch (13-10) • Barely visible from garment’s right side • Hemming and holding facings down • Catch stitch (13-11) • Criss-cross stitch holds two layers together • flexible

  17. Cross-stitch (13-3) • Decorative stitch • Center back of pleat jacket • Buttonhole stitch (13-14) • Handworked buttonholes • Attaching hooks and eyes • Decorative finish

  18. Blanket stitch (13-16) • Thread loops, eyes and belt carriers • Decorative finish • Chain stitch (13-19) • Forms thread loops, eyes and carriers • Double thread to form a series of loops

  19. Pressing Fabric • Press (raising and lowering iron )rather than iron (slides back and forth) • Use correct temperature setting • Always test your fabric to see reaction • Press on wrong side whenever possible • When pressing on right side, always use a press cloth

  20. Never press over pins • Always press seams and darts before other seams are stitched across them • Press directionally with the grain • Press seams flat before you press them open

  21. Press curved areas over a curved surface • Tailor’s ham • Prevent press marks on right side, slip pieces of paper under the edges of the seam • Check the fit of the garment before you press sharp creases, pleats

  22. Don’t over press • When pressing an entire garment • Start with small areas first • Collars, cuffs, yokes • Later press large flat areas

  23. Pressing Techniques • Flat areas • Place garment on ironing board with both seam allowances to one side • Open the fabric and place over board

  24. Curved areas • Darts, curved seams (tailor’s ham) • Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches • Place fabric wrong side up on tailor’s ham

  25. Enclosed Seams • Press seam flat • Press seam open • Turn right side out, gently push out corner or point • Press garment section flat on ironing board

  26. Gathered areas • Press seam allowances together flat • Slip garment over end of ironing board • Press direction up into the gathers with the point of the iron

  27. Shrinking in Fullness • Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam to penetrate before pressure • Use your fingers to pat out any folds • Press edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness

  28. Final Pressing • While constructing garment • Light pressure will remove wrinkles • Light touch up at end

  29. Making Darts • Fold the dart with right sides together matching stitching lines • Stitch from the wide end to the point • Stitch the last two stitches as close to the fold line as possible • Tie the thread ends

  30. Pressing Darts • Always press dart before crossing it with another seam • Page 514 figure 15-4

  31. Gathering and Easing Fabric • Adjust stitch length to 6 – 8 stitches • Stitch the first row of basting next to the seam line • Leave the threads long • Stitch second row ¼ inch away and leave thread long • See page 516 figure 16-1, 16-2, 16-3

  32. Pin the fabric edges matching, notches, seams, etc • Pull up both bobbin thread from one end • Gently slide the fabric along the stitching • Wrap ends around a pin • Distribute gathers evenly and pin • Stitch with standard stitching along stitch lines

  33. Shirring is formed by several rows of gathers • See page 518 figure 16-5 • Easing most often used at shoulder seams • See page 518 figure 16-7

  34. Sewing Plain Seams • Stay-stitch any bias or curved areas • Pin baste fabric layers together • Raise the needle and take up lever • Position fabric under needle • Lower presser foot • Backstitch for ½ inch and then forward • Stitch forward slowly and evenly

  35. Clip threads at the seam end and beginning • Finish the seam edges if necessary

  36. Turning a corner • Stitch to within 5/8 inch stop with needle in fabric • Lift presser foot • Turn fabric • Lower presser foot and continue

  37. Turning a Sharp Point • Take one or two diagonal stitches across the corner • Raise presser foot, leave in needle and stitch diagonal

  38. Reinforcing • Reinforcement stitches on side of each point • Prevent fabric yarns from pulling out

  39. Special Seam Treatments • Trimming • Seam allowance in cut to ¼ inch (evenly) • Grading • Trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width (reduces bulk) • Clipping • On curved seams, making tiny clips or snips (1/4 to ½ inch)

  40. Notching • Curved seams with too much fabric • After being trimmed or graded • Cutting out tiny wedges no more than 1/8 to seam line

  41. Apply Facings • Facing is turned to inside for a smooth finish • Three basic facings: • Shaped • Shape is the same as the area to be covered • Extended • Is an extension of the garment pattern piece • Bias • Strip of bias fabric stitched to garment

  42. Applying Fasteners • Hooks and eyes • Many sizes and types • Page 530 figure 20-1 • Snaps • Hold overlapping edges together • See page 531 figure 20-4

  43. Hook and Loop Tape • Special nylon tape fastener • Comes in strips or precut • Page 531 figure 20-5 • Buttonholes and buttons • Collars, cuffs, etc • Page 532

  44. Buttonhole types • Machine-stitched buttonholes • Zigzag stitch • Handstitched • Lightweight or loosely woven fabrics • Bound buttonholes • Strips of fabric for the opening • Buttonholes are made in garment before facing is attached

  45. Buttonhole Placement • Horizontal • Page 532 figure 20-8 • Vertical • page 532 figure 20-9

  46. Machine stitched buttonholes • Start on a scrap of fabric • 1. Mark location of buttonhole on right side of fabric • 2. stitch the buttonhole • 3. place a pin across each end of buttonhole to prevent cutting through stitching • 4. cut hole opening using small scissors

  47. Button Placement • 1. overlap fabric edges with buttonhole on top • 2. place a pin through the buttonhole • 3. Slip the buttonhole over the head of each pin and separate the garment sections • Page 533 figure 20-11, 20-12

  48. Attaching Sew-through Buttons • 1. using small backstitches, secure a double thread at the button marking • 2. place toothpick, heavy, pin on top of button • 3. bring the needle up and through one hole, over the toothpick and down through the second hole • 4. remove the toothpick and pull the button to the top of the thread loop • 5. wind the thread tightly around the stitches under the button to form the shank • Page 534 figure 20-14, 20-15, 20-16

  49. Zippers • Check the zipper package • Staystitch any curved or bias area • If seam allowance is less than 5/8 inch use seam tape • Check the pattern guide to see whether zipper should be stitched before or after facing

  50. Check the length of the zipper opening • To shorten a zipper; machine zigzag across coils to form new stop • Stitch garment seam below zipper marking • Prepare zipper opening, machine bast it closed

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