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GPP Training toolkit 7.10. Textiles products and services

Learn about the environmental impacts of textiles, EU GPP criteria, needs assessment, and verification procedures for sustainable textile products and services. Explore opportunities for more eco-friendly purchases and contracts.

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GPP Training toolkit 7.10. Textiles products and services

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  1. GPP Training toolkit7.10. Textiles products and services

  2. GPP Training Toolkit Module 2: Strategic Aspects of GPP Module 4: Needs Assessment Module 1: Introduction Module 7: Operational (Textiles) Module 5: Circular Procurement Module 6: Market Engagement Module 3: Legal Aspects of GPP Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  3. Environmental impacts Why are sustainable textiles important? The textile industry has a big environmental footprint: • 1.2 billion tonnes GHG emissions per year1 • 20% of industrial water pollution2 • 73% of clothing landfilled or incinerated3 Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  4. Environmental impacts How do textiles impact the environment Impact of textile products and services depends on: • Where raw materials are sourced • How the fibres and end goods are manufactured • How they are washed, dried and ironed when in use • How long they last, and what happens at the end of life Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  5. Scope What is included in the EU GPP Criteria Fibres: natural, synthetic, man-made cellulose Products: clothing, interior textiles, intermediate products (fibres, fabric, yarn, panels), non-fibre elements Services: laundry, maintenance, take-back Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  6. Needs Assessment Choosing the right kind of textile product/service Rethinking need Three key questions: • Is a new purchase necessary? • How will the textiles be used? • Could a service contract meet your needs/ avoid impacts more effectively? • Reuse and repair of existing textiles is environmentally-friendly, can save money, and may not require a procurement exercise Example: Requiring workwear reuse as part of a service contract (Herning, Germany) More information in: Module 4: Needs Assessment Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  7. EU GPP Textile approach Opportunities for more sustainable textiles Purchase textiles: • Made from fibres produced using fewer fertilisers, pesticides and production chemicals • That contain recycled materials and fibres • With a reduced use of environmentally harmful substances in their production • Which require less energy for drying and ironing • That are colour-fast, do not shrink during use, and are constructed to be more durable in use and which have longer-lasting functional coatings. Contract services: • Minimise the energy used to wash, dry and iron textiles • Maintain textiles in order to extend their lifetime • Maximise potential for reuse and recycling of textiles at end of service life Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  8. EU GPP Criteria Textiles (2017) Examples: • Selection criteria (SC) – supplier can track and verify fibre origin across the supply chain • Technical specifications (TS) – a certain minimum % of the textile product comes from organic cotton • Award criteria (AC) – extra points for each 10% improvement on the minimum organic content • Contract performance clauses(CPC) – water consumption of laundry service must improve over duration of contract. For full criteria see: • EU GPP Criteria for Textile Products and Services Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  9. Verification What to ask for? When? Compliance with GPP criteria should be assessed: At the selection stage (in two-stage procedures); During evaluation of tenders; and During the contract execution phase. Checking compliance with GPP criteria for textiles • Test reports/ monitoring data • Ecolabels/ third party certification • Transaction records • REACH declarations • Description of systems in place • User instructions • Written commitments • Past experience descriptions For full verification instructions see: • EU GPP Criteria for Textile Products and Services Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  10. Verification Examples from the criteria Textile products TS1: Cotton fibres A minimum 20% (core) or 60% (comprehensive) of the content of cotton goods must be either: • Organic: grown according to Regulation (EC) No 834/2007, the US National Organic Programme, or equivalent legal obligations set by trade partners of the EU, or • Integrated Pest Management (IPM): grown according to UN FAO IPM programme or EU directive 2009/128/EC Verification: verified upon delivery by means of third party verification scheme and documented transaction records (providing traceability back to point of certification) A screening test to verify non-GMO cotton can be requested (where conventional cotton is part of blend) Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  11. Verification Examples from the criteria Textile services TS2: Maintenance of textile assets Tenderers of textile services, as part of their asset management plan, will extend the useful life of textiles by providing ongoing maintenance and repair services. As a minimum: • Provision of basic repairs (seams, fixing/replacing parts and fastenings) • Fabric panel replacement for workwear • Retreating and proofing of functional coatings Verification: tenderer will provide detailed specification for maintenance services, including documented evidence from maintenance facilities under operation or sub-contract arrangements. Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  12. Market Availability Ecolabels for sustainable textiles Credibility matters! The EU Ecolabel can be accepted as verification for some GPP criteria, for example: • TS2: Woolfibres • TS3.1: Sulphur emissions to air • TS3.2 Halogenated emissions from pulp Mar 2018 – 2625 products awarded EU Ecolabel! • Numerous textile ecolabels exist, but the quality can vary – procurers should choose ‘Type I’ ecolabels i.e. verified by a third party and awarded on the basis of life cycle impacts See Module 3 (Legal) for more on ecolabels More on EU Ecolabel licensed suppliers: EU Ecolabel for Textile Products More on other relevant ecolabels: Technical Background report Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  13. Using Ecolabels in GPP Adding further criteria to your tender • As well as verification, Type I ecolabels can be a source of additional criteria • Some ecolabel criteria – but not all – can be used in a tender. • For example, EU Ecolabel: • Criterion 13: The final product and the production recipes used to manufacture the final product shall not contain the hazardous substances listed in the Restricted Substance List (Appendix 1) at or above the specified concentration limits. • Criterion 15: The applicant shall demonstrate that production sites have implemented a minimum number of Best Available Techniques (BAT) energy efficiency techniques The EU EcoLabel for textile products criteria can be found in – Commission Decision 2014/350/EU Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  14. Legislation supporting GPP REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2009 REACH places the responsibility on companies (instead of public authorities) to identify and manage risks posed by chemicals, and to provide safety information to users. Chemicals which are carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic for reproduction, or which are persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic may be identified as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) and added to the REACH Candidate List. Companies have legal requirement to report concentrations of SVHCs above 0.1% on request by consumers. GPPCriterion TS5 (Declaration for REACH Candidate List Substances) makes use of this legal obligation. More information: • REACH Candidate List for SVHCs Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

  15. Case Studies Procuring jumpers made from responsible organic cotton (Masaryk University, Czech Republic) Purchasing textiles made from recycled fibres (Ministry of Defence, The Netherlands) Reusing workwear (Municipality of Herning, Denmark) GPP Helpdesk For further support on GPP, contact the EU’s free Helpdesk Toolkit developed for the European Commission by ICLEI - Local Governments for Sustainability Module Author: ICLEI – Local Governments for Sustainability Owner, Editor: European Commission, DG Environment, 2019 Photos: courtesy of Pixabay.com under Creative Commons CCO Disclaimer: This toolkit is an indicative document of the Commission services and cannot be considered binding to this institution in any way. Neither the European Commission nor any person acting on behalf of the Commission is responsible for the use that might be made of theinformation in this document. Module 7.10 – Textiles Products and Services

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