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Why Waves? Waves Features Waves Observed

WAVES Intro. Why Waves? Waves Features Waves Observed. Why Waves?. Critical Factor for Coastal Region Beaches … summer fun, winter destruction Coastal economy Safety Shipping & Boating : ocean routes, coastal lanes Coastal Destruction : storm surges, tsunamis

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Why Waves? Waves Features Waves Observed

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  1. WAVES Intro • Why Waves? • Waves Features • Waves Observed

  2. Why Waves? • Critical Factor for Coastal Region • Beaches … summer fun, winter destruction • Coastal economy • Safety • Shipping & Boating: ocean routes, coastal lanes • Coastal Destruction: storm surges, tsunamis • Coastal and Offshore Engineering • Shore Protection, Structures: design, survival • Mechanism for restoring natural equilibrium • Energy Source: Wave & Tidal Power

  3. Specific Examples • Vessel Berthing • Structure Design • Sediment Transport • Estuary Processes • Air / Sea Interaction • Oil Spill Response

  4. Direction #1 Biased Direction Direction #2 Vessel Berthing

  5. Direction #1 Biased Direction Direction #2 Structure DesignTo Build A Jetty

  6. Direction #1 Biased Direction Direction #2 Sediment Transport

  7. Background • Wave characteristics • Periodic oscillation that propagates through space • Transfers energy but not mass • Engineering & Science Interest: Energy Variation • With frequency • With direction (and frequency)

  8. Describing Waves • Frequency (time variation) sets Wavelength for wave type • Direction (propagation through space) • Height (2 x amplitude) • Energy (height 2) x wavelength

  9. Wave Words Figures taken from Oceanography of the British Columbia Coast, Richard E. Thompson

  10. Background • 1-d … wave propagates along line • Single wave: sinusoidal variation, amplitude, period • Wave group • 2-d … wave propagates across plane: direction • Two classes: long & short wavelength • Relative to water depth • Energy of short waves decays with depth

  11. Two Wave Types

  12. Wave Orbits

  13. Background • Two categories: sea and swell (co-exist) • Sea • High frequency, short waves • Surface variation appears random (snapshot) • Energy from local winds • Swell • Lower frequency, longer waves • Surface appears corrugated (more coherent), movement of crests more apparent • Energy from distant storms

  14. Waves Spectrum SUN, MOON STORMS, TSUNAMIS WIND Tides

  15. Storms & Swell • Strength • Duration • Fetch

  16. Waves at Beach

  17. Refraction at Headland

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