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Hair Hydration Measurements Using Opto -thermal Radiometry and AquaFlux

Hair Hydration Measurements Using Opto -thermal Radiometry and AquaFlux. Perry Xiao ab and RE Imhof b. a Faculty of ESBE, London South Bank University, 103 Borough Road, London SE1 0AA, UK b Biox Systems Ltd, 103 Borough Road, London SE1 0AA, UK.

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Hair Hydration Measurements Using Opto -thermal Radiometry and AquaFlux

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  1. Hair Hydration Measurements Using Opto-thermal Radiometry and AquaFlux Perry Xiaoab and RE Imhofb aFaculty of ESBE, London South Bank University, 103 Borough Road, London SE1 0AA, UK bBiox Systems Ltd, 103 Borough Road, London SE1 0AA, UK

  2. Opto-Thermal Transient Emission Radiometry (OTTER) Infrared Emission Signal Pulsed Laser Excitation 13.1µm 9.5µm t t Air Heat Sample • Absorption coefficient to emission light, b (m-1) • Layer structure • Thermal diffusivity, D (m2s-1) • Absorption coefficient to excitation light, a (m-1)

  3. Opto-Thermal Skin Measurements

  4. Thermal Delayed Signal OPO Laser 420 ~ 590nm Air Stratum Corneum L Epidermis Skin Dermis Heat absorbed by melanin & Haemoglobin Opto-Thermal Delayed Thermal Wave (DTW) Measurements • Opto-thermal delay time Dt=L2/(4D) • L : Epidermis thickness • D: Epidermis thermal diffusivity

  5. Opto-Thermal Skin Measurements Infrared Emission Signal Er:YAG 2.94µm t Air Heat absorbed by water Stratum Corneum Skin Epidermis Dermis

  6. Opto-Thermal Skin Measurements Hydration Hydration H1 H0 H0 L Stratum Corneum Epidermis air Stratum Corneum Epidermis Uniform Model Gradient Model

  7. Opto-Thermal Skin Measurements

  8. Opto-Thermal Measurements

  9. Opto-Thermal Measurements Traditional Least-Squares Fitting Segmented Least-Squares Fitting

  10. Opto-Thermal Measurements Depth 0 Transform Function Time

  11. Opto-Thermal Hair Measurements

  12. Opto-Thermal Hair Measurements

  13. Opto-Thermal Hair Measurements

  14. Opto-Thermal Hair Measurements

  15. Opto-Thermal Hair Measurements

  16. Condenser TEWL Method -AquaFlux

  17. Condenser based, Closed-Chamber TEWL Measurements Technology Ice Condenser -7.65 °C RH and Temperature Sensors Sample

  18. Hydration H1 Jv JTEWL H0 W L air Stratum Corneum Epidermis TEWL and TOWL Measurements TEWL – Trans - Epidermal Water Loss TOWL – Trans - Onychial Water Loss

  19. Hair Desorption

  20. Hair Desorption

  21. Hair Desorption

  22. Hair Desorption

  23. Conclusions • The results show that OTTER can be used to measure the water concentration and water diffusion within hair samples. OTTER signals can reflect the layered structure of hair, the water concentration depth profiles show that within hair water might not distributed uniformly. Hair samples appeared to be able to absorb a lot of water during 10 minutes soaking, and to hold on most of it during the next 20 minutes period. • AquaFlux can be used for measuring the water holding capability of ex-vivo hair samples through natural desorption process. The results show that different hairs have quite different desorption processes which are likely indicating different water holding capabilities. By fitting the desorption curves with suitable mathematical models we can also extract the water diffusion coefficients of hair.

  24. Acknowledgements We thank London South Bank University and EPSRC for the financial support.

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