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Modern Age. 1960-2006. Overview. Globalizing economy Trade agreements, outsourced production Identity Politics: 1964 Civil Rights Act, sexual revolution 1964 JFK killed, 1968 MLK Media increase-60s television, 90s internet Music-based movements-street style E-commerce, TARGET markets.
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Modern Age 1960-2006
Overview • Globalizing economy • Trade agreements, outsourced production • Identity Politics: 1964 Civil Rights Act, sexual revolution • 1964 JFK killed, 1968 MLK • Media increase-60s television, 90s internet • Music-based movements-street style • E-commerce, TARGET markets
60s • 1959 PANTYhose • Protests: Cuba, Mid-East, Vietnam • Travel, visibility, awareness (eclectic) • Avant-garde: Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, Yves St. Laurent (nontraditional materials) • Youthquake: Quant-MOD; Twiggy-supermodel • 1964 Beatles
60s contd. • 1966 Star Trek (SPACE) • Courreges, moon girl (trouser suits, & YSL) • Givenchy, Hepburn (1961) • Pucci, Op Art (also Warhol, Mondrian-YSL) • Oleg Cassini, Jackie Kennedy • American Fashion in limelight • Hippies: solidarity w/working class • Like French Revolution! • Ethnic, Rock (Hendrix, Joplin), “Hair”, Woodstock (69) • African garments/hairstyles: symbols of resistance
70s • Star Wars (1977); Saturday Night Fever, DISCO (Halston); Annie Hall, androgynous; Shaft, blaxploitation • Glam Rock (Elton John, Bowie, Cooper) • Punk-Vivienne Westwood, Sex Pistols • Designer Jeans, leisure suits, t-shirt as social statement • Japan economic growth-designers (into 80s)-Kenzo, Yamamoto, Kawakubo, Miyake • Product Licensing for mass merchants • JCPenney/Halston
80s • Economic stability (Reagan/Thatcher) • Consumerist Spirit • Casual wear boom • Donna Karan, Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein • Fitness craze, Flashdance, 1983 • Sports brands, branding • Gaultier-Madonna, Underwear as Outerwear • Wealthy/royal fashion leaders, Lady Di (1981)
Designer Decade, 80s contd. • Marc Jacobs, Lacroix, Thierry Mugler, Versace, Lagerfeld (for Chanel) • Armani-yuppies, American Gigolo • Power suits Other film/TV • Top Gun (85), Wall Street (87) • Dallas (78-91), Dynasty (81-89), Miami Vice (84-89) • MTV (1981), marriage-music/TV/fashion
90s • Globalization • 1989 Fall of Berlin; 1991 Dissolution of Soviet Union; 1991 Gulf War; 1993/1995 NAFTA, WTO • Global retail • Walmart • “Glocalizing” products for varied markets • Automatic Inventory Control, CAD
Music + • Grunge: flannel, cargo pants, vintage • Anna Sui • Also Goth-black, platforms…body modifications spread/mainstream • Hip-Hop: oversized, branding/logos • Phat Farm, Sean John, Kangol • Postmodern/deconstruction; recycling/historicism • Helmut Lang, Margiela, Galliano, McQueen, Ozbek, Dolce & Gabbana • Brand Reinvention: Gucci, Prada • Designer as celebrity: Mizrahi, Ford
(Not on test)2000 new millenium, world balance • Terrorist attacks 2001, 2004, 2005 • Patriotism • China, economic power/manufacturing • Cuban-Narciso Rodriguez • Lebanese, Elie Saab • Chinese-American, Vera Wang • Partnerships • Proenza Schouler, Heatherette • Diesel, Etro
Technology in fashion accessories • iPod ready jeans • Techno textiles • UV, performance • E-commerce and 2005 no quotas • Product placement • Designer placement, “Sex and the City” • YOUTH styles, conspicuous, “bling”, metrosexual • Music/designers: Stefani, JLo • Eco everything-environmentally responsible, socially responsible retail