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Teaching Gender through Dress and Fashion in Hispanic World

Teaching Gender through Dress and Fashion in Hispanic World. Dra. Margarita M. BIRRIEL SALCEDO University of Granada (Spain). Dressing. Dressing the body (or clothing a house) is an act of comunication imbued with meaning, as understood by wearer or viewer.

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Teaching Gender through Dress and Fashion in Hispanic World

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  1. Teaching Gender through Dress and Fashion in Hispanic World Dra. Margarita M. BIRRIEL SALCEDO University of Granada (Spain)

  2. Dressing • Dressing the body (or clothing a house) is an act of comunication imbued with meaning, as understood by wearer or viewer. • Dress has social meaning: expresses cultural identity, economic position, social position, gender, etc. • It includes and excludes. • It’s a cultural phenomenon. Even its banality or cotidianity expresses social conflicts and consensus.

  3. Clothes in Early Modern Europe • Investiture: putting on of clothes that literally constitute a persona as a monarch or a freeman of a guild or a household servant. • Hal: Henry IV,part 2: “ Maiesty is a new and gorgeous Garment”. • English Vestiarian Controversy (Elizabethan Reing) or Dutch iconoclasm (1566): vetements were central

  4. Clothes in Early Modern Europe • Whatis central here? Animatedness of clothes. • Tounderstandthesignificance of clothes in earlymodernEurope , weneedtoundoourown social categories, in wichsubjects are prior toobjects, wearerstowhatisworn. • Clotheshabilityto “pick up” subjects, tomold and shapethembothphysically and socially, toconstitutesubjectsthroughtheirpower as material memories: subordination, solidarity, love etc. Investiture.

  5. Clothes Early Modern Europe • DEFERT: “Toconfusethemeaning of habit [l’habit] in thesixteenthcenturywiththat of fashion[todaysmeaning] isananachronisticillusion. Habit has the original connotation of habitus, whichimpliesworkuponthebody […] No sixteenthcenturyFrenchdictionary defines [habitusmonasticus] simplygarment. Thehabitusmonasticusdesignthe rule, theway of life, fromwhichthegarmentcannotbedissasociated”

  6. Fashion/ Moda • Changes through Early Modern period from what is costumary to hanging styles

  7. Sources • Sumptuary Laws & political, economical,moral literature • Courts reports • Dress Books • Paintings

  8. MORISCA • Source: Weiditz : Dress Book. Critic • Dress and material • Resistance and Accomodation

  9. Peru Inca • Source: Inca Princess. • Portrait: royal portrait • Dress and materials • Confluencial elites

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