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Industrial attachment of abanti colour tex ltd

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Industrial attachment of abanti colour tex ltd

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 1

  2. REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL TRAINING IN ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD TRAINING PROGRAM FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING. SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY, DHAKA FROM 06.10.2012 TO 06.12.2012 COPY FOR SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY SUBMITTED BY: SUBMITTED BY: Mohammad Shariful Islam Mohammad Faruk Hossan Southeast University. Southeast University. Banani, Dhaka Banani,Dhaka. Date Of Submission: 14 Date Of Submission: 14 th thJanuary 2013. January 2013. 2

  3. Acknow Acknowledgement ledgement At first i would like to express my heart-felt thanks to almighty ALLAH for his kind blessing for completion of the industrial training successfully. I woulkd like to thank the people, who have made a significant contribution to make this report. Their guide lines,suggestions & inspiration helped us a lot. I would like to express my deepest applicatioin, sincerest gratuity to my respected teacher Professor Syed Fakhrul Hassan, Chairman, Depertment of Textile Engineering, Southeast University. We would also like to express my sincere gratuity to Nizam Uddin Mandol (General Manager), Abanti Colour Tex LTD, Special thanks to all managers of every depertment, my heart full thanks to all of different production officer, In-charges, Executives, Supervisors, Asst.supervisors,operators & all other employees of Abanti colour Tex LTD. At last but not the least, we would like to acknowledge our parents for their blessing, support & love and all my friends for their help & support to complete the report. I wish the progress of Abanti Colour Tex LTD. 3

  4. Executive Summary Executive Summary Abanti Colour Tex LTD is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment Industry. Though incorporated in the year 1994 as a private limited company it came into existence in late December 1995. The mill being established at Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj, aspires to create a niche within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of knit garments.Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Abanti Colour Tex LTD is a 100% export oriented composite knit garment industry.It possesses all the latest machineries from the European countries with few from the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The entire plant has been installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same roof. The total plant is located in an eighteen storied building in an area of more than 6,50,000 square feet (Approx). The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery and experienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to ensure the Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. We can produce international standard fabric and garments of any quality and quantity. Abanti Colour Tex LTD always keeps pace with latest technology of Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in such a manner which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. market fulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer 4

  5. Introduction Introduction By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowedge in the practical field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the poerformer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various operation stages. It also provides us sufficiant practical knowledge about production management, produstivity evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery, production planning and control, production cost analysis and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inpiration to take self-responsibility. At Abanti Colour Tex LTD, cutting-edge technologies ,erge seamlessly with human ingenuity and deep seat recommmitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. The ACTL has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal of ACTL is become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources. 5

  6. TABLE OF CONTENT TABLE OF CONTENT Serial No Chapter Topic Name Page No 1 Acknowledgement 3 2 Executive Summary 4 3 Introduction 5 4 1 Company Profile 8-15 5 2 Knitting Section 16-27 6 3 Dyeing Section 28-42 7 4 Lab Dip Section 43-46 8 5 Finishing Section 47-55 9 6 Quality Assurance 55-63 6

  7. section Serial No Chapter Topic Name Page No 10 7 Garments Section 64-103  Garments Manufacturing. Sample Section. Cutting Section. Marker Making. Fabric Spreading. List Of Garments machineries. Sewing Sequence of basic T-shirt. Some Sewing machines. Stich.and its different Classes. Seam and its different types Printing Section. Embroidery Section. Finishing.             11 8 Merchandising Section. 104-113 12 9 Maintenance Section. 114-123 13 10 Utilities Development And power 124-125 14 11 Compliance 126-128 15 12 Conclusion 129-130 7

  8. Chapter: 1 Chapter: 1 Company profile Company profile ( (Abanti Col Abanti Colour TEX LTD our TEX LTD) ) 8

  9. Mission: Abanti Colour Tex LTD committed to venture out into the changing and challenging global mnarket as a leading enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valued customer. Vision:   To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market. To satisfy the valued customers, meeting their expectation by providing quality products and services on time and offering them the best value in terms of quality, price, environment and other ethical practices. To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtain optimum level of productivity. To maintain the technology command in the factory. To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.    9

  10. 10

  11. Factory Name: ABANTI COLOUR TEX LIMITED. ( A 100% Export oriented composite knit factory) Factory Location: Plot No-S,A-646, Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj, Bangladesh. Head Office Address: House No- 365/4, Road No- 06 (west),Baridhara DOHS,Dhaka-1206,Bangladesh Phone- 88-02-8415126-7. Fax- 88-02-8412560. Factory Telephone & Fax No: Phone- +88027672526 Fax No- 88027671057 Management: Chairman- Hosne Ara Nila Managing Director- A,H. Aslam Sunny General Manager- Nizam Uddin Mandal Company Establishment: In 1994 11

  12. Yearly Turnover: 65 Million US $ Total no of workers: 7000 workers Lead time: 60-90 Days Fabric Range: 100% Cotton, Polyamide, Viscose etc. Main Product: T-shirt, Polo shirt, Tank Tops, Sweat shirt, Night wears, Jogging Suits, Trousers etc. Working Period: 2 (Tw0) Shift Per Day Production Capacity: Knitting : 20 Tons/Day Dyeing : 25Tons/Day Garments : 1,20,000 Pcs/Day Printing : 65,000 Pcs/ Day Embroidery : 187 Head ( Haina & Tazima) . 12

  13. Major Customers: Tom Tailor, H&M, Fabiani, Aldi, Kappa, Red Wood, Manguun, Gemu, Kiabi, Galeria Kaufhof, C.Comberti, Primark, ISM Real, Adler, Simpex, Schafer, Freestyle, Mustang, Belgium post, Mark-Adam, Spring Field, Metro CMC,Pepe jeans, etc. Major Certificates: ISO 9001-2008 (QMS). Oeko-Tex Standard maintaining company. Organic Exchange (OE).etc. 13

  14. Different Dipertment: Different sections of Abanti Colour Tex LTD. A. Knit section  Knitting  Inspection B. Dyeing section  Batch section  Dye house  Dyeing lab  Quality control  Finishing C. Garments section  Merchandising  Sample  Cutting section  Sewing section  Finishing section D. Printing Unit E. EmbroideryUnit F. AccessoriesUnit G. Maintenance section  Electrical  Mechanical H. Utility:  Electricity  Gas  Boiler Different sections I. Store section J. Administration section K. Maintenance section L. Marketing section M. Production planning &control N. Human Resource & Development section O. Compliance 14

  15. Supporting Department Personnel Administration Procurement Marketing HRD Finance &Accounting MIS (Management Information System) Work Study Complience& Safety 15

  16. CHAPTER 2 CHAPTER 2 KNITTING KNITTING 16

  17. Knitting: Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth. Knitting consists of consecutive loops called stitches. As each row progresses a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. Knitting is the most common method of inter-looping and is second only to weaving as a method of manufacturing textile products. Objectives of knitting: To produce fabric. Produce fabric for making garments smoothly. To minimize fabric cost. For regular fabric supply. Classification of knitting machinery: Basically there are two types of knitting which are weft knitting, versus warp knitting and another type is flat knitting versus circular knitting. The machines used for the maniufacturing of knit fabric can be divided into machines with individually driven needles and needle bar machines. Basic types of fabric: 1. Warp knitting. 2. Weft knitting. Wales’s lines are fixed by the machine gauge. This can not be changed, coarses lines can be altered by adjusting in the machine. This is called Texture. Basic knitting element: 1. Needle. 2. Sinker. 3. Cam. Needle: 17

  18. Function of needles:Needle is used to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new loop above it on the needle steam. Types of needle: In general there are three types of needles. a. Bearded needle. b. Latch needle. c. Compound needle. Hook Rivet Latch Steam Butt Figure : Latch Needle CAM: Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles or other elements. Types of cam: Two type of cam 1. Engineering cam Knit cam 2. Knitting cam Miss cam Tuck cam Function of CAM The functions of cam are as follows:  Produce motion to needles.  Loop formation.  Holding down.  Knocking over 18

  19. Sinker: This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual and collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles. Function of sinker: It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action and consequent sinker shape and movement. Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:    GSM cutter Electronic balance Inspection m/c Terms and definition of knitting: Course – A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle. Wales– A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle. Loop- It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft of woven structures termed “Wales” and “courses” respectively Stitch- The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop. Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop & half of the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength. Steps should be taken to change stitch length. - - - - - Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing. Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley. Set of the position of carriage. Set the speed of take- up roller Maintain the optimum yarn tension. Yarn count: 19

  20. Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn. Yarn count can be calculated in two systems: Direct system: In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner the yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Lycra and other synthetic fibers.  W l w L   DirectCount Where, W=weight of the sample L=length of the sample w=unit weight of the system l=unit length of the system Indirect system: In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count finner the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton, worsted & woolen.   w L W l  IndirectCount Where, W=weight of the sample L=length of the sample w=unit weight of the system l=unit length of the system 20

  21. ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING DEPARTMENT: Asst.General Manager Production Manager Supervisor Knitting Master Store Incharge Fitter man Fitter man Operators Operators 21

  22. Sequence of operations in knitting section: Sample fabric Design analysis Setting the machine for the specific design Sample fabric production If No Buyer approval If Yes Bulk Production QC Send to Batching section 22

  23. Machine profile for knitting section: S/L No M/C Dia M/C Gauge Type Origin Brand No of feeder No of needle M/C QTY Attachment 21“ 22“ 23“ 24“ 25“ 26“ 27“ 28“ 29“ 30“ 31“ 32“ 34“ 36“ 38“ 40“ 42“ 63 66 69 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 93 96 102 108 112 120 126 216 228 240 252 1584 1656 1740 1812 1860 1968 2040 2112 2184 2256 2328 2400 2544 2712 2880 3000 3168 2712 2880 3000 3168 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 24 E SINGLE JERSEY TAIWAN JIUNNLONG 100% LYCRA 10 11 12 13 14 15 15 17 18 19 20 21 36“6FD 38“6FD 40“6FD 42“6FD MULTI FEEDER SINGLE JERSEY 100% LYCRA 24 E TAIWAN JIUNNLONG 30‘ 32“ 34“ AUTO STRIPE 6 COLOURS 72/48 72/48 84/54 2268 2448 2592 2 1 1 100% LYCRA 22 23 24 24 E JAPAN JIUNNLONG 23

  24. S/L No M/C Dia M/C Gauge Type Origin Brand No of feeder No of needle M/C QTY Attachment 24“ 48 1344 2 1 26“ 52 1476 2 2 28“ 56 1585 2 3 30“ 60 3408 1 4 32“ 64 3600 1 5 18/24 RIB/ TAIWAN JIUNNLONG 100% LYCRA 34“ 68 3846 1 6 INTERLOCK 36“ 72 2040 2 7 38“ 76 4272 2 8 40“ 80 4512 2 9 42“ 84 2484 2 10 44“ 88 2484 2 11 46“ 92 2592 1 12 S/ L No 1 M/C Dia M/C Gauge Type Origin Brand No of feeder No of needle M/C QT Y 15 Attachmen t 52“ 14GG FLAT KNIT TAIWAN JY-LEH 6 1344 COMPUTE RISED Inspection Machine Uzu Brand : Thailand Country of Origin : 2 Sets QTY : 24

  25. Types of yarn used and their count: Type of yarn Count 20S,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S,40S, 45S Cotton Polyester 70D,100D,150D Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D 24S, 26S Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S, 28S Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) Cost of Raw Materials: Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn 40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7 $/Kg 36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg 32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 28/1 2.65 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg 20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15- 2.2 $/Kg 25

  26. Quality Standard: Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib fabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points are given against the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Four Point Grading System Size Of Defects Penalty 3 inches or less 1 point Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point Over 9 inch 4 point Any Hole 4 Point Typical knitting calculations: The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below: Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch. Total needles: Machine diameter× Gauge×3.1416 Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter×3 Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter×2 Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm For single jersey fabric: 4320  Yarn Count Fabric Gsm 26

  27. For Double jersey fabric: 6000  Yarn Count Fabric Gsm Relation between fabrics finished Gsm, stitch length, fabric gsm, yarn count: For Single Jersey fabric:  590 Ks Finished Gsm   Stitch Length Yarn Count Where, For s/j, Ks=19.6 For 1x1 rib, Ks=26 For Interlock, Ks=38 Fabric Thickness: Fabric thickness=4D Here, D= yarn dia (in relaxed state) Tightness Factor: Tex  Tightness Factor , here stitch length is in mm Stitch Length Production per shift:   D G S L F       60 8  .  RPM efficiency  Pr oduction per shift Kg 1000 840  ) 36 2.2028   yarncount Ne ( Where,  D= Machine dia  G= Machine gauge  S.L.=Stitch length  F= No. of feeder 27

  28. CHAPTER CHAPTER- - 3 3 DYEING SECTION DYEING SECTION DYEING SECTION DYEING SECTION 28

  29. ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING: DGM ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Senior Manager (Dyeing) Manager (Finishing) Manager (Dyeing) Asst. manager Manager (Dyeing) In Charge Production Officer Supervisor Dyeing Master Operator Floor in charge Helper Supervisor Operator Helper 29

  30. Dyeing: Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy to textiles and increase product valkue. It chemically changes a substance so that the reflecting light appears. Most dyeing is performed either by the finishing division of vertically integrated textile companies or by specially dye houses. Specially dye houses operate either on commission basis or purchase greige goods and finish them before selling them to apparel and other product manufacturers. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques and equipment. Dyes used by the textile industry are largely synthetic, typically derived from coal tar and petrolium-based intermediates. Dyes are sold as powders, granules, pastes and liquid dispersions with concentrations of active ingredients ranging typically from 20 to 80 percent. Preparation Techniques: Various finishing techniques are used after fabrics are made using weaving or knitting techniques such as Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, Mercerizing etc. Following are major fabric preparationn tecniques:  Singeing  Desizing  Scouring  Bleaching  Mercerizing 30

  31. Table : Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers: Sl. No Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon 01 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute 02 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk 03 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen. 04 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen. 05 Sulpher dyers Cotton, Viscose and Linen. 06 Reactive dyes Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon. 07 Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate Rayon. 08 Dyeing machine: The machine which is used to dyeing or coloring of materials like yarn, fabric, garments or any other materials is called dyeing machine. Main Component’s of a dyeing m/c: 1. Mixing tank: There is a tank in this machine. Every chemical are used to put here. There are some components here are as follows: a. Metallic mixing part: It is used to mix any solution b. Air flow mixing part: It is also to mix any solution. c. Steamer: It is used to delivery steam in mixing tank. d. Steam controller: It can control the amount of steam e. Filter: It is used to filter the solution which is transferred in to the main tank. 2. Main tank: The chemical from the tank is transferred here. The pretreatment and dyeing are completed here. 3. Monitor: It is situated at the right side of the machine. The commands are shown in the monitor & the operators can work from these commands. There are also some options for working properly & to obey these commands. 31

  32. 4. Unloading reel: There is an unloading reel for unloading the dyed fabric. 5. Three detectors: There are 3 detectors on the above of the nozzle are as follows: a. Temperature detector: It is at the left side between these 3 detectors which can detect the temperature of the main tank. b. Fabric turning pressure detector: It is at the middle of these 3 detectors. It can detect the pressure at which the fabric turning. c. Atmospheric pressure detector: It can detect the atmospheric pressure of the main tank. d. Panel board: There is a panel board at the right side of the machine by which programmed can be set up. Checklist before operation: Checking the programmers Machine set-up. Fabric weight. Fabric quality. Collar design (Tipping/ solid). Rib designs (Normal/Lycra). Chemical availability. Power availability. Steam availability. Water availability. Compressed air. Manpower availability. Fabric stitch is done properly. 32

  33. Typical Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing : Fill Water ↓ Fabric loading & m/c run ↓ Caustic soda dozing for 5min at 40ºC (PH10.5-11) ↓ H2O2dozing for 5 min at 60ºC ↓ Sequestering agent, anti-creasing agent, detergent dosing at 80ºC ↓ Temp. Rise at 98ºC for 60 min ↓ Bath Drop ↓ Wash ↓ Fill water 33

  34. MACHINE PROFILE FOR DYEING SECTION. SAMPLE Sl No Brand Brand Capacity/Day Total No’s 1 Winch FONGS PMM 25 Kg 01 2 Winch FONGS 50 Kg 01 3 Winch DILMINLER 50 Kg 01 4 Winch AK 20 Kg 02 5 Winch AK 100 Kg 01 PRODUCTION Sl No Brand Brand Capacity/Day Total No’s 1 Winch AK 100 Kg 01 2 Winch AK 150 Kg 01 3 Winch AK 200 Kg 01 4 Winch AK 400 Kg 02 5 Winch DELIMINLER 450 Kg 01 6 Winch AK 600 Kg 01 7 Winch DELIMINLER 600 Kg 01 8 Winch AK 800 Kg 02 9 Winch DELIMINLER 900 Kg 01 10 Winch AK 1200 Kg 03 11 Winch SCAVOS (Greece) 1500 Kg 02 12 Winch FONGS 1000 Kg 02 13 Winch GONGS 750 Kg 01 34

  35. Chemical used Basic chemicals: 1. Hydrogen peroxide 2. Acetic acid 3. Soda ash 4. Caustic soda 5. Common salt 6. Glubar salt 7. Bleaching acid 8. Hydrose Detergent: 1. PCLF 2. MA Scour AP 3. FEROLZUM Anticreasing agent: 1. MARLAKT CONC 2. ALBAFLUIDE C 3. MA Lube C 4. Best anticreasing Leveling agent: 1. MARLADF CONC 2. Seragal PLP (LPF) 3. PRIMALEV R CONC 4. Best leveller 723 Sequestering: 1. Hanko QUST 2. MARLA DM CONC 3. MA Stab XL 4. Best SCQ 710 Peroxide killer: 1. P.Killer (PK) Stabilizer: 1. MARLA PS CONC 2. Ultrafresh NMV-2 3. Argaprep MSS 4. Primastab FF Conc Anti foam: 1. Antifoam 39A 35

  36. Fixing Agent: 1. Albafix SR 2. Jontex Fix 500 3. Serafast CNC 4. Asufix EPF Enzyme agent: 1. Boizep MC new 2. UNIZYME 600L Softener agent: 1. E-31 (white) 2. Softener A-1000 (COLOR) 3. Matsoft NISB 4. Softener S-300 5. Chemesoft CWS Production Parameters Temp(▫C) Process pH Time min M : L ratio 98 10-11 30 1:8 Scouring - Bleaching 55 4.5-5 30 1:8 Enzyme Wash 60 10-11 60 1:8 Reactive Dyeing (Light Shade) 60 11-12 60 1:8 Reactive Dyeing (Dark Shade) 98 10.5-11.5 30 1:8 White Shade 80-90 11-12 60 1:8 Turquish color dyeing 130 4-4.5 45 1:8 Polyester dyeing 36

  37. Dyeing Parameter: 1. pH:         Bleaching bath pH Neutralization or after bleaching pH Bio polishing bath pH Initial dye bath pH: 5.5-6.5 After alkali addition pH After dyeing pH Fixation bath pH Softener bath pH : 10.5 – 11 : 5.5 – 6.5 : 4.5 : 10.5 – 11 : 5.0 – 6.0 : 4.5 – 5.5 : 4.0 – 5.0 ( For color ) 2. Temperature: : 980C : 550C            For cotton Pretreatment For Cotton Biopolishing Cotton Dyeing: During Turquise During Isothermal Red special White dyeing For Polyester Dyeing For Cotton soaping Temperature during softening & fixing : 400C For cotton hot wash :800C :600C : 600C : 800C :1300C : 980C : (70-90)0C : (50-60)0C For cotton acid wash 37

  38. Amount Of Salt , Alkali & Fixation time On The Basis Of Shade%: Shade % Salt(g/l) Alkali(g/l) Fixing time(min) 0-0.1 30 10 20 0.1-0.5 30 15 30 0.5-01 40 20 40 1-1.5 50 20 50 1.51-2 60 20 60 2-2.5 70 20 60 2.5-5 80 20 60 Above 6 100 25 70 Black shade 100 10+0.5g/l NaOH 70 Dyeing Process with Recipe Light Color Process 100% Cotton A. Machine Wash: Hydrose (2g/L) +Caustic (2g/L) +Foaming Agent (0.5g/L) 30 min at 90oc Machine Washed A. Acid (0.7g/L) 20min at 70oc M/C Neutralized 38

  39. B. Scouring & Bleaching: Detergent (1 g/L) Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L) Stabilizer (.8 g/L) Caustic (3 g/L) H2O2 (3 g/L) 60min at 98’c C. Neutralizations (Scouring & Bleaching): H2O2Killer (.8 g/L) A.Acid (1 g/L) 20min at 80’c D. Enzyme Wash: A.Acid (1 g/L) Enzyme (1%) 55min at 50’c, PH =4.5 E. Dyeing: Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L) Leveling Agent (1 g/L) A.Acid (.2 g/L) Dyes (According to shade %) G.Salt (According to shade %) Soda Ash (According to shade %) 60min at 60’c F. Neutralization: (Dyeing) A.Acid (1 g/L) 10min at 40-50’c G. Soaping: Soaping Agent (.5 g/L) 20min at 70-80’c 39

  40. H. Fixing & Softening: Fixing Agent (.5 g/l) 15min at 40’c A.Acid (.5 g/L) Softener (1.5 g/L) Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:  Uneven dyeing: Causes:  Uneven Pretreatment  Improper addition of color  Improper addition of chemical  Using dyes of high fixation properties  Less control of dyeing machine  Less circulation time Remedies:  By ensuring even pretreatment  By proper addition of color and chemicals  Correct circulation time  By controlling the dyeing machine properly  Batch to batch Shade variation Causes:  Using improper dyes and chemicals  Incorrect pretreatment procedure  Batch to batch weight variation of fabric  Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation)  Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals 40

  41. Remedies:  By using standard dyes and chemicals  By correcting the pretreatment procedure  By maintaining batch to batch weight variation  By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals  By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals  By following different dyeing parameter.  Dark colored spots: Causes:  Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing  Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade  Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath  Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment Remedies:  By ensuring proper dyeing condition  By selecting proper dyestuff  By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing  By ensuring proper after treatment  Patchy dyeing: Causes:  Due to hardness of water  Due to faulty color addition  Due to faulty injection of alkali  Due to improper salt addition  Due to improper PH of solution Remedies:  By using proper sequestering agent  By correcting the color addition  By correcting the salt addition  By proper injection of alkali  By maintaining the PH level of the solution 41

  42. Crease mark: Causes:  Poor opening of the fabric rope  Due to high speed of machine running  Unequal pump pressure and reel speed Remedies:  By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed.  By controlling the speed of the machine.  Correct opening of the fabric rope.  Roll to roll variation: Causes:  Poor migration property of dye.  Hardness of water.  Improper dyes solubility.  Faulty machine speed. Remedies:  Use standard dyes and chemicals  Proper machine speed.  Using soft waste. Calculation realted to dyeing floor:   39.37 fabric width no of Nozzle CycleTimt  Machine Capacity 1000   Winch speed  GSM .   39.37 Fabric width No of Nozzle Winch speed   Machine Capacity 10000  CycleTime  Fabric GSM .   Re quired Dye kg ( ) Shade % FabricweightinKg g l required Total liquor  /  Re quired Chemicals 1000 42

  43. Chapter Chapter- - 4 4 Lab Dip Section Lab Dip Section 43

  44. Process flow chart of lab dip dyeing: Swatch from Checking the quality Recipe Previous lap dip Record Spectrophotometer Matching visually Recipe correction Visually calculating Spectrophotometer Exact match with swatch Two or more option of lab dips send to the buyer for approval Approved Not approved Go for production Making re lap dip Approved 44

  45. Definition: Lab Dip development means the sample which is dyed according to the buyer’s requirements. Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyes planning done. The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:     To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved Lab Dip. (Grade: A B C) Lab Unit Model Brand Country of Origin Oven Dryer and Incubator S.D.L Atlas England Balance S.D.L Atlas England Sun test Cpst Atlas England Rubbing / Crocking Atlas England Yarn Twist Tester S.D.L Atlas England Yarn Evenness Tester S.D.L Atlas England Wrap Reel S.D.L Atlas England Ph Meter Deep Vision Pilling Meter Mag Solving Rota Wash S.D.L Atlas England Wascotos Elutrolux England Lab Sample Dyeing Machine Rapid Taiwan Electronic Balance SHINKO KOREA Spectro Photometer Data Color USA U.Box Verivide UK 45

  46. Wash Machine Milling Stone Turkey Siemens Washing Machine Turkey Dry Siemens Turkey Dry Electrolux S.D.L Atlas England PANTONE BOOK (TCX, TPX): This book is used for shade matching. Sometime buyer gave the pantone no. in their order. Pantone no. indicates the shade of the garments. It’s a universal shade matching book. Full name : Pantone Textile Color Selector Color numbering system : 6 digit + suffix First two digits : 11 to 19 (range of lightness) Middle two digits : 01 to 64 (range of hue) Last two digits : 01 to 65 (range of chroma) 46

  47. Chapter Chapter- - 5 5 Finishing Section Finishing Section 47

  48. Finishing: Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile material under go after pretreatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance there attractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness. Objects of finishing: The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use. Besides that, finishing can be done for achieving the following purposes- a) To improve fabric attractiveness. -By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical brightening) -By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening) -Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting) b) To improve service ability. -Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing) -Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising) -Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery) After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form. The tubular and open finishing sequences of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd are given bellow: Types of finishing: 1) Chemical finishing: 2) Mechanical finishing: Finishing effects:  Easy - care  Crease recovery.  Dimensional stability.  Good abrasion resistance.  Improved tear strength.  Good sew ability  Soft or stiff handle.  Shine or luster 48

  49. Specification of Finishing Machines used in ACTL: BALLOONING SQUEEZING M/C Manufacturer name Country of origin Serial/Model no. M/C type Max. Pressure Applied Pressure Used utilities DONG NAM INDUSTRIAL CO. LTD KOREA DNBS-1400 BALLOON SQUZ 6 kg 3 kg Water, Electricity, Compressed air DRYER ALKAN TURKEY 6 3200C Tube Steam, Electricity Brand name Country of origin No. of motors Temperature Applied for Used utilities TUBE COMPACTOR FAB-CON USA 91195 Brand name Country of origin Serial no. Washing machine LG Company WD 80264NP Model 800 rpm Max spin 930C Max temp Observation Of Different Finishing M/C: Ballooning Squeezing m/c/De-Watering M/C: This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. 49

  50. The basic function of the squeezing m/c:  To remove the water from the fabric.  To control the width of the fabric.  To control the length of the fabric.  To control the Spirality of the fabric.  To control the over feeding system  Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.  To remove the crease mark of the fabric. Controlling points:  Dia setting must be accurate.  Padder pressure depends on fabric construction. Excess padder pressure may cause fabric damage. Speed must be optimum.  Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water. Main parts:  De-twisting device (to deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form)  Expender (to control width)  Paddler (to remove water)  Folding device  Conveyer Belt  Compressed air(to form the tube fabric into balloon to ensure the delivered fabric to be crease free) 50

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