1 / 172

Industrial Attachment of Ananta group

Presentation about 'Industrial Attachment of Ananta group'

sheshir
Download Presentation

Industrial Attachment of Ananta group

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author. Content is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use only. Download presentation by click this link. While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server. During download, if you can't get a presentation, the file might be deleted by the publisher.

E N D

Presentation Transcript

  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 Page 1 of 172

  2. CHAPTER – I ORGANIZATIONAL OVERVIEW M A K I N G A W O R L D O F F A S H I O N Page 2 of 172

  3. INTRODUCTION: From 1991, Ananta has grown to be one of the leading apparel solution providers in Bangla- desh. Engaged in the marketing, development and manufacturing of apparel, Ananta employs 12500 people and has an annual turnover of over $75 million. Through a wide range of prod- ucts & services, Ananta has earned the goodwill of reputed brands from across the globe. Producing over 12 million pieces of garments per year, it is among the largest vendors in Bangladesh for both Gap and H&M. Ananta has consistently excelled with a strong perfor- mance record of 25% annual growth over the last few years, and has earned several awards & recognitions such as the Bangladesh "Best Exporter Award" in 2002 and the “Wal*Mart” Best Vendor Award" in 2004. Ananta's success is rooted in its investments in human capital and world class manufacturing facilities. Ananta possess the skills, experience, infrastructure and financial strength necessary to attain customer satisfaction through excellence in product quality, flexibility and cost competitiveness. The company is always exploring new markets across the world with an experienced perspective, contemporary professionalism and high- end technology. VISION: To establish as a one stop source for the Global Apparel market and to satisfy and meet cus- tomer's expectation by developing and providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety & Environmental impact. Assuring complete com- pliance with the international quality standards and also providing the employees internation- ally acceptable working condition and standards. To promote the development and to use human talent & equal opportunity of employment. Procure the most advanced & sophisti- cated technology suitable for producing desired product and attain highest level of compe- tence through continuous development of the professional management system and to ensure complete transparency in all aspect of business. Page 3 of 172

  4. MISSION: Ananta is committed to enhancing its capabilities to serve its customers better. It is planning to expand its manufacturing capacity over the next 3 years to reach production of 30 million pieces of woven bottoms a year, with special focus on producing premium denim products which require extensive washing and finishing effects. In addition, it is also starting several new pilot projects for the production of jackets, knitwear and sweaters in order to diversify its product portfolio. Ananta is a trendsetter in the apparels industry. It provides the highest val- ue products and services possible to customers & seeks to foster long term relationships with their partners and provide industry leading benefits and opportunities to employees. To extend its position as a world-class manufacturer, Ananta strives to achieve global stan- dards in quality, cost, service and scale of operation. Ananta focused on using innovative processes, technologies & machines to manufacture the finest products at a reasonable cost. By being responsive to their customers requirements and anticipating changes in market trends, hope to provide a superior level of service than they are accustomed to. They are committed to the success of all the partners that they work with and try best to accommodate their needs. Page 4 of 172

  5. Location Maps: Location map of Ananta Head Office Banani DOHS Mohakhali Kakoli chourasta Uttara SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Kamal Attaturk Avenue WESTIN HOTEL Gulshan 2 Gulshan 1 PREMIER BANK Road no #99 House no #20 ANANTA HEAD OFFICE Page 5 of 172

  6. Location Map of Ananta Denim Technology Limited (ADTL) Saydeabad Jatra bari Chittagong road Narayongonj Demra Kanchpur Bridge Shitalakkshay River Nayabari ADTL Norsindi Sonargoan Page 6 of 172

  7. Location Map of Ananta Casual Wear Limited (ACWL) kakoli Gulshan 2 SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Abdullapur Asulia  Gazipura bus stand Targach ACWL Gazipur chourasta Page 7 of 172

  8. CHAPTER– II PROJECT DESCRIPTION M A K I N G A W O R L D O F F A S H I O N Page 8 of 172

  9. Name of the Factory: ANANTA GROUP AAL- Ananta Apparels Limited ADTL-Ananta Denim Technology Limited ACWL-Ananta Casual Wear Limited Type: 100% export oriented Woven readymade Garments Industry. Year of Establishment: From 1991, Ananta has grown to be one of the leading apparel solution providers in Bangla- desh. Address: AAL- Gulshan 2; house no# 20; road no#99 ADTL-Nayabari, Kanchpur, Narayangonj ACWL-Gazipura, Gazipur. Sponsors: Bank: Prime Bank Limited Branch: Elephant road Branch Account Name: Ananta Apparels Limited Account No: STD-31000303 Account Currency: United States Dollars. Page 9 of 172

  10. Physical Infrastructure: The organization shall determine and maintain the infrastructure needed to achieve confor- mity to product requirements, infrastructure included, as applicable  Ananta maintains its telecommunication with VOIP connection to its different corporate zones, PABX connections and LAN connections.  It’s others facilities are  Own Network Server,  Own power management;  Own utility management,  Free transport facility,  24 – hour medical centre,  Free meals,  Fire service facility Product type:  Denim.  Non Denim. Capacity: 57 Lines: 1,000,000 pcs/month – E/Rd, Gazipur & Elephant Road factories. Remarks: Ananta is greatest concerned with the quality of its product. For this reason it do not look for the production volume rather the quality of product, this increase its overhead cost. But better quality has welcome buyers with satisfaction. The infrastructure and land asset has the greatest possibility to extension and to create social contributions. Page 10 of 172

  11. CHAPTER– III MANPOWER MANAGEMENT Page 11 of 172

  12. Organogram of Merchandising section: CHAIRMAN MANAGING DIRECTOR DIRECTOR SR. GM GM DGM AGM SR. MANGER MANAGER DEPUTY MANAGER ASST. MANAGER SR. MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER ASST. MERCHANDISER JR. MERCHANDISER TR. MERCHANDISER Page 12 of 172

  13. Organogram of manpower management: Organogram of Administration: (Transport, construction, development, operation, security) Director (E. Road) Director(ACWL) Administration A.G.M Transport Construction Front Desk Operation Security Site Engineer Officer Asst. Store in charge Mix m/c Operator Asst. Officer Page 13 of 172

  14. Organogram of Administration Department :( Rejection, Time section, Floor admin) Director (ACWL) Asst. Director (HR) Administration A.G.M Manager Time section Floor Admin Rejection In charge Time Executive Sr. Officer In charge Time Keeper Peons Officer Cleaner Computer Operator Sweeper Page 14 of 172

  15. Organogram Of Production Department :( Sewing Section) Director (ACWL) Production GM DGM AGM Manager Executive Line chief Supervisor Worker Page 15 of 172

  16. Organogram Of Production Department :( Cutting) Director (ACWL) GM Sr. Manger Coordinator Manager In charge Supervisor Cutter man Marker man Page 16 of 172

  17. Organogram of Production department :( Finishing) Director GM CTPAT Area Button Section Shipment coor- dinator Manager Finishing Unit In charge Jr. Coordinator In charge Supervisor Supervisor In charge Supervisor Worker Page 17 of 172

  18. Organogram of Production Department: (Store) Director GM Manager Fabric GAP H&M Asst. Manager Manager All Buyer Arranger Sr. Officer Officer Officer Sub-Contract Arranger Keeper Keeper G. Store Work Arranger Officer Asst. Officer Keeper Page 18 of 172

  19. Shift Change: There are two shifts for operation personnel in this industry. So the shifts are changed at every 12 hours. The shift timings are as below:  8:00 am to 8:00 pm (“A” Shift)  8:00 pm to 8:00 am (“B” Shift) Administration i.e. Management personnel work on General (G) shift of duration 9:00 am to 7:00 pm and 6 days per week. Responsibilities of Production Executive:  To follow and execute the daily production plan accordingly.  To give the right decision for the minor troubleshooting.  To convey the proper information to the next shift.  To maintain target productivity of every section in his shift  To give job card to maintenance department whenever machine is not working or any other problem with the machine. Job description of Production Executive: Report to: Senior production officer Job Summary: To plan, execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality. Page 19 of 172

  20. Duties & Responsibilities:   Overall supervision of production.   Batch preparation & PHcheck.   Write Garment pcs loading & unloading time from m/c.   Program making, sample checking, color measurement.   Control the supervisors, operators’ asst. operator & helpers.   And also any other work as & when required by the management. Management System: Corporate Management System. Remarks: Though Ananta. has more than 12500 manpower. Ananta pay a great attention for providing food and transport, medical, schooling of personnel’s children, their utility and maintain a safe, secured and calm environment. The working condition here is also standardized. These opportunities for the personnel of the industry have a direct positive impact on the production and also motivate the personnel for better and greater efficiency. Page 20 of 172

  21. CHAPTER– IV GARMENT WASHING Page 21 of 172

  22. General discussion on Garment washing In line with ever changing human behaviors and longing to be unique in outlook, mankind dress themselves in fashionable as well as comfortable garments. To be or get unique in out- look garment washing is very convenient way. This is a wing of garment wet processing technology. This is the textile technology by which a unique appearance along the seam, size, comfort ability &. Fashion etc. Properties are changed of a solid or multi colored or printed garment. Fabric of the garment may be dyed with reactive dye, direct dye, Sulpher dye, acid dye, basic dye, pigment and even metal complex dye and printed with pigment, direct dye, reactive dye etc. Object for garment washing: These are the main objectives for garments wash- To develop softness in garment: Size materials in fabric are removed by washing & • there is also advantage to add softener. Drape ability also increased. To introduce unique appearance: washing that introduces fading effects along with • the seam on the garments by washing out dyes or pigments in the garments. To create new fashion: Washing process of garments bring different out looks • (faded, color tinted, old look etc.) of garment that is used for creating new fashion. Special type of finishes are also possible such as wrinkle, wrinkle free, soil retardant • finish etc. To satisfy the customer: As shrinkage occurs so customer can wear it just after pur- • chasing/buying. Advantages or garment washing: Starch or size materials, which are applied during fabric production especially in case • of woven fabric are removed by wash as a result the garment become soft and hence the drape ability and comfort ability increased significantly. Page 22 of 172

  23. Softness could be increased by addition of softeners by doing soft finish or applying • the softener at the end of washing process. Dirt's, impurities, germs etc. Obviously will be added in the garment during its man- • ufacturing^ arc removed due to washing because a variety of chemicals are used such as detergent, bleaching agents etc. Due to washing, maximum shrinkage occurs; hence there is the zero possibility of • further shrinkage. As a result there is no size or fitting problem in washed garments. Faded effect and a variety of stylish effects produced by different washing tech- • niques. Nowadays these faded and stylish effects are accepted as a new fashion for fashion world. Similar outlook and effect could be produced by different washing techniques or by • different process. As a result there is a great scope of implementation of brilliances of technicians. Every machine of a garment washing factory can be used for multi- purpose for this reason total project cost is comparatively lower where as washing add a handsome value to the garments. Limitation of Garment washing: Garments Size Change: This change takes place due to shrinkage properties of the fabric. The amount of shrinkage properties of fabric determines the amount of size changing of the gar- ments. Size materials and finishing partly removed: Different types of washing are done with different types of chemicals and process, which are responsible for the removal of size materials and finishing from the fabric. Color is partly removed: Unfixed dyes may remain on the garment after dyeing. This un-fixed dye will be subsequently removed due to washing. Thus color is partly removed. Page 23 of 172

  24. The change occure by the following action during washing: 1. Mechanical/Rubbing/Abrade action with a. Garment-to-garment: In case of compact fabric it is more. b. Garment to machine: In this case the degree of abrasion mainly depends on the machine surface. The machine inner drum is perforated and the edges of each perforation create the ab- rasion with garments during processing. The degree of this abrasion is more than the abrasion of Garment-to-garment. 2. Chemical Action: A wide range of chemicals is used in different types of washing and each chemical provide its action as its character. We will know and understand of the actions of different types of chemical from the discussions about different types of wash. In case of above mentioned mechanical actions liquor ratio and machine rotation i.e. rpm also influence the degree of abrasion. There Are Different types Garments washing in our country: Normal wash/Garment wash/Rinse wash /Soft wash, Pigment wash, Silicon wash, Bleach wash. Caustic wash, Acid wash, Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Enzyme washes with stone, Supper white wash, Wash & over dyeing, Wash & Tinting, & Over all wrinkles. Basic machineries of a washing plant: Garments washing m/c for sample, Garments washing m/c for bulk, Hydro extractor, Page 24 of 172

  25. Tumble Dryer: i) Gas dryer, ii) Steam dryer. Normal wash It is the easiest, shortest and cheapest process as a result it is most popular wash. Size material is removed partially. Dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities etc. are removed that may come from during process i.e. cutting, stitching and the back process. With the addition of softener the softness of the garments can be improved as well as drape ability All types of garment can be washed. Such as: woven and knit garments. No significant fading effect can be achieved. But increasing processing time and de- creasing the liquor ratio we can pronounce the wash effect. Note: White garments should be soften with non-ionic softener and dried in the steam dryer. Otherwise a reddish tone will appear. How to solve Back-staining Problem during Normal Wash We have to follow the bellow sequences: Trial a sample batch (If back-staining occur) Wash another sample batch with anti back-staining chemicals. (If back-staining occur) Wash another sample batch without detergent (If back-staining occure) Wash another sample batch without temperature (If back-staining occure) Wash another sample batch without detergent & temperature and with anti back- staining agent after fixing with fixing chemicals (If back-staining occure). Stop washing and inform customer. Process: Suppose a lot size of 100 kg garments: 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg of garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 3. Start m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm 4. Add detergent to the liquor 0.3-1% i.e. 0.30-1kg 5. Supply steam to raise temp. 40 c to 60 c Page 25 of 172

  26. 6. If back staining is occur then use anti back staining chemicals to minimize such kind of problem 1-2% i.e. 1.0-2.0 kg 7. Run the process 5-20 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with minimum liquor 1:3 i.e. 300 lt (its temp 40-60c) 10. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 11. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 to 0.5% i.e. 100 gm to 500 gm 12. If back staining & bleeding then use anti back staining & fixing chemical Anti back 1 -2% i.e. 1 -2 kg, Fixing agent 0.5-1 % i.e. 0.5-1 kg 13. Supply steam to raise temp As required (40c to 60c) 14. Continue the process for 2-15 min 15. Drop the liquor 16. Unload the garment 17. Hydro extracts the garment. 18. Dry it in a tumble dryer. Pigment Wash It is also easiest, shortest and cheapest process as a result it is most popular wash like as nor- mal wash. • Pigment dyed/Pigment printed fabric used for making garment can be pigment washed. Size material is removed partially • Dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities etc. are removed that may come from during process i.e. • cutting, stitching and the back process. • With the addition of softener the softness of the garments can be improved as well as drape ability. But as pigments harden the printed or dyed surface softener need more in compare with normal wash. • All types of garment can be washed. Such as: woven knit garments. Significant fading effect can be achieved. But we can achieve more wash effect by in- • creasing processing time and decreasing the liquor ratio. Note: white garments should be soften with non-ionic softener and dried in the steam dryer. Otherwise a reddish tone will appear. Page 26 of 172

  27. Process: The process is very similar to normal wash. But it always varies company to company and on desired wash effect. Suppose a lot size of 100kg garments: 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg of garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 3. Start m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm 4. Add detergent to the liquor 0.3-1% i.e. l kg 5. Add Caustic soda (if required) 0.5-1.0gm/ lt i.e. 50-100gm 6. Add Soda Ash (if required) 0.5-1.0 gm/lt i.e. 50-100 gm. 7. Supply steam to raise temp. 40 c to 60 c 8. If back staining is occur then use anti back staining chemicals to minimize it 1-2% i.e. l-2kg 9. Run the process 5-20 min 10. Drop the liquor 11. Hot wash with minimum liquor 1:3 i.e. 3001t (its temp 40-60c) Note: If alkali is used then a neutralization process for alkali should be done. 12. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 13. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 14. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% i.e. l00gm to 500gm 15. If back staining & bleeding then use anti back staining & fixing chemical Anti back 1 -2% i .e. 2kg, Fixing agent 0.5-1% i.e. 500gm-lkg 16. Supply steam to raise temp As required (40c to 60c) 17. Continue the process for 2-15 min 18. Drop the liquor 19. Unload the garment Page 27 of 172

  28. 20. Hydro extracts the garment 21. Dry it in a tumble dryer. Silicon wash Silicon wash is generally done on all type of fabrics i.e. woven and Knit. It is easier, short- er process like normal wash as a result it is also popular wash. Size materials are removed by an extra process named Desizing. i.e. cutting, stitching and the back process. • It gives durable softness, elastic handle anti-pilling effects, dimensional stability and tear resistance. With the addition of softener the softness of the garments can be im- proved as well as drape ability. • It also improves wear and easy-care properties. • All types of garment can be washed. Such as: woven knit garments. • No. significant fading effect can be achieved. But increasing processing time and de- creasing the liquor ratio we can pronounce the wash effect. Process: Suppose a lot size of 100kg garments: Step 01 or Desizing: 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 3. Start m/c running Speed 1 5/12 rpm 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 1-3 kg 5. Add detergent/anti stain to the liquor; 1% i.e. 1kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 60 c 7. Continue the process 20 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water temp 40-50c for 5 min. Step 02: 1. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 2. Start m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm Page 28 of 172

  29. 3. Add Silicon to the liquor 0.1 to 0.5% i.e. l00gm to 500gm 4. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 to 0.5% i.e. l00gm to 500gm 5. Supply steam to raise temp As required (40c to 60c) 6. Continue the process for 10-15 min 7. Drop the liquor 8. Unload the garment Step 03: 1. Hydrocxtract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. In case of knit garments desizing step is not required but a wash for 5 minutes at room temperature is necessary. Caustic wash • Caustic wash generally doing on Reactive dye, Sulpher dye, Direct dyed or printed Garments. • If printed fabric is used for making garments then about 20-30% pigment is washed out, as a result faded color effect is produced. • Size material is removed partially but more then normal wash & pigment wash. • Dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities etc. are removed that may come from during process i.e. cutting, stitching and the back process. • All types of garment can be washed. Such as: woven knit garments. • Significant fading effect can be achieved. But we can achieve more wash effect by increasing processing time and decreasing the liquor ratio. • To improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. • To increase the hairiness on garments this increases its old look appearance. Process: The washing procedure follows the bellow mentioned steps. Supposed a lot size 100kg garments. 1. Load the garments in the washing m/c= 100kg garments. 2. Load the m/c with water at 1:5 liquor ratio= 500Lt water 3. Start m/c running with moderate speed= 12-15 rpm 4. Add caustic soda to the liquor 4% 4kg Page 29 of 172

  30. 5. Add soda ash to the liquor 2% 2 kg 6. Add detergent to the liquor 1% 1 kg 7. Add H202to the liquor 4% 4Lt 8. Add stabilizer to the liquor 2% 4Lt 9. Supply steam to raise the temp 70 c 10.Continue the process for achieving the desire shade 60-90 min 11.Drop the liquor 12.Hot wash 50c to remove all unaccepted material for 5 min 13.Drain the liquor 14.Neutralization: a. Add water in 1: 5 Liquor ratio 500 Lt b. Start machine running speed 12-15 rpm c. Add acetic acid to the liquor 1 -2ml/lt 0.50- 1 Lt d. Continue the process 5 min e. Drop the liquor 15.Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 500Lt 16.Run m/c running with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 17.Add softener as required 0.1 to 0.5% 10-50gm 18.Continue the process at 40-50c 5-10 min 19.Drop the liquor 20.Unload the garments. 21.Hydrocxtract & dry the garments with the tumble dryer. Bleach Wash Garments made from indigo, vat, reactive, direct etc dyed fabric can be bleach washed. It is a decolorization process by oxidation action. Color can be removed uniformly from the garment and removal of color done as per re- quirement. In general there are three categories such as light bleach (where maximum color is removed), medium bleach and bleach. All types of garment can be washed. Such as: woven knit garments. In case of woven fabric a pretreatment (Desizing) process is required. Dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities etc. are removed that may come from during process i.e. cut- ting, stitching and the back process. Page 30 of 172

  31. • Significant fading effect can be achieved. But we can achieve more wash effect by in- creasing processing time and decreasing the liquor ratio. • To improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. • To increase the hairiness on garments this increases its old-look appearance. • Maximum weight losses occur in case of light bleach. Process This washing process follows the following steps. • Step 01 or Desizing • Step 02 or Bleaching • Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine) • Step 04 or Neutralization • Step 05 or Softening • Step 06 or Drying Suppose a lot size 100kg of twill trouser. Step 01 or Desizing: 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 500It v 3. Start m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% l-3kg 5. Add detergent/anti stain to the liquor; 1 % i.e. 1 kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 60 c 7. Continue the process 20 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water temp 40-50c for 5 min. Step 02 or bleaching: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 2. Start m/c running Speed 12-15 rpm Add soda to liquor 2% i.e. 2kg 3. Add caustic to liquor 2% i.e. 2kg 4. Add bleaching powder (K.C.I.) 10 gm/lt i.e. 5 gm Rinse thoroughly. Page 31 of 172

  32. Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine"): ' 1. Add water with 1:5 liquor ratio 500Lt 2. Start m/c running with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add 35% of H2020.5-1.0% 500gm-lkg 4. Add bisulphate 1-2% lkg-2kg 5. Continue the process at Room temp. 5 min 6. Drop the liquor & a hot wash at 40-60 c 5 min 7. Add water in 1: 5 Liquor ratio 500 Lt 8. Start machine running speed 12-15 rpm 9. Add sodium hyposulphite 3 gm/ltr 1500gm. 10. Supply steam to raise temp As required (40c) 11. Continue the process 10-20 min 12. Drop the liquor, 13. Rinse thoroughly. Step 04 or Neutralization: 1. Add water in 1: 5 Liquor ratio 500 Lt 2. Start machine running speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add acetic acid to the liquor 1 -2ml/lt 0.5-1 Lt 4. Continue the process 5 min 5. Drop the liquor Step 05 or Softening: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 500 Lt 2. Start m/c running speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% 100- 500gm 4. Supply steam to raise the temp. As required 40 to 60 c 5. Continue the process 5 min 6. Drop the liquor & unload the garments Step 06 or Drying: Page 32 of 172

  33. 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. In case of knit garments desizing step is not required but a wash for 5 minutes at room temperature is necessary. Problem- Weight loss Strength loss Shade miss match Stone Wash Stone wash is done on garments made from denim & jeans fabric. Sometimes twill fabric garments are also subjected stone wash. Fading effect is produced in the garments in irregular pattern. Fading effect is more Pronounced across the seam line and the multiple ply position. Stone wash mainly followed by a decolouration process. Garments become comfortable during use. Process: This washing process follows the following steps: Step 01 or Desizing Step 02 or Stone Wash with Bleach wash Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine) Step 04 or Neutralization Step 05 or Softening Step 06 or Drying Step 01 or Desizing 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine): 1. Add water with 1:5 liquor ratio 500 Lt 2. Start m/c running with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add 35% of H2020.5-1.0% = 500gm-lk Or Add bisulphate 1-2% lkg-2kg 4. Continue the process at Room temp. 5 min 5. Drop the liquor & a hot wash at 40-60 c 5 min Note: H202 Neutralization gives brighter tone then the bisulphate. Page 33 of 172

  34. Step 04: (Neutralization) 1. Add water with 1:5 liquor ratio 500 Lt 2. Start m/c running with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add acetic acid 1-2% lLt-2Lt 4. Continue the process at Room temp to 60c. 5-8 min 5. Drop the liquor Step 05 or Softening: 1.Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 500 ltr 2.Start m/c running speed 12-15RPM 3.Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% 100-500 gm 4.Supply steam to raise the temp 40-60c 5.Continue the process 5 min 6.Drop the liquor & unload the garments Step 06: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer Enzyme wash Enzyme wash is done on garments made from denim & jeans fabric, twill fabric garments. Sometimes knit items are also subjected for Enzyme wash Garments made from indigo, vat, direct etc dyed fabric can be enzyme washed. Reactive dyed garments can be washed also but wash effect not pronounced as mentioned earlier. It produces frosty/ice effect on garment and seam abrasion across the*seam. Enzyme works chemically not mechanically for this reason it provide less damage/wastage then stone wash. It improves improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties and decrease the hairiness hence it gives a very smooth surface of the garments. Process: It follows the bellow mentioned steps. Suppose 100kg of garments in a lot size. Step 01 or Desizing Page 34 of 172

  35. 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 3. Start m/c running 15/12 rpm 4. Add amylase enzyme 1 -3% l-3kg 5. Add detergent/antistatic to the liquor; 1 % i .e. 1 kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 60 c 7. Continue the process 20 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water temp 40-50c for 5 min. Step 02 Enzyme 1. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 2. Start m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm 3. Supply steam to raise temp. As required 55-60 C 4. Add acetic acid 1-3% l-3kg 5. Add anti back staining 1% i.e. 1kg 6. Add Acid Enzyme As required 1-3% i.e. 100-300gm 7. Continue the process depending up on the effect 30-50 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water temp 80-90c run 1 -2 min. (for killing the enzyme). 10.Drain the bath 11.Rinse thoroughly Step 03 or Softening: 1.Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 500 Lt 2.Start m/c running speed 12-15 rpm 3.Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5%= 100- 500gm 4.Supply steam to raise the temp As required 40 to 60 c 5.Continue the process 5 min 6.Drop the liquor & unload the garments Step 04: Page 35 of 172

  36. 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. Note: Enzyme wash usually followed by bleaching; and it depends upon the lightening the gar- ments. Enzyme wash with stone Enzyme wash with stone is done on garments made from denim & jeans fabric, twill fabric garments. Sometimes items are also subjected for Enzyme wash with stone Garments made from indigo, vat, direct etc dyed fabric can be Enzyme washed with stone. Reactive dyed garments can be washed also but wash effect not pronounced as mentioned earlier. It produces frostier/ice effect on garment and seam abrasion across the seam than the enzyme wash. Enzyme works chemically and stone works mechanically for this reason it provide ef- fect more quickly than enzyme wash. It improves improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties and decrease the hairiness where as stone mechanically increase hairiness. On the other hand this process shortens the time. For this reason enzyme and stone amount should be used very carefully. Process: It follows the bellow mentioned steps. Suppose 100kg of garments in a lot size. Step 01 or Desizing 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 3. Stan m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 1 -3kg 5. Add detergent/anti stain to the liquor; 1% i.e. lkg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 60 c 7. Continue the process 20 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water temp 40-50c for 5 min. Step 02 Enzyme with stone 1. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 5001t 2. Start m/c running Speed 15/12 rpm Page 36 of 172

  37. Supply steam to raise temp. 55-60 C 3. Add acetic acid 1-3% 1.3kg 4. Add anti back staining 1% i.e. lkg 5. Add Acid Enzyme As required 1-3% i.e. 100-300gm 6. Add pumic stone '/* of volume of garments volume or as required 30kg to 50 kg 7. Continue the processdepending up on the effect 30-50 min 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water (for killing the enzyme) temp 80-90c run 1-2 min. 10.Drain the bath 11.Rinse thoroughly Page 37 of 172

  38. FOCUS ON ADTL: Fabric store: ADTL is the central store of the of ANANTA group. 70% of the fabrics are stored and supply to ANANTA group from here. ADTL is totally working on denim washing. Washing is the most important part of the readymade garments. For innovative outlook and fashion based style that doing by washing specially on denim fabric. Fabric store which maintained the fabric roll and its quality. There are some employees with worker whose are working on it. First, they received the roll as per purchase order. Then it counted by order sheet and started inspection. Main things of inspection try to find out the fabric fault and its quality. There are different types of fault. Such as stick mark, missing yarn, thick yarn, slub, knot, spot, and hole. Faults are detected by follow the 4 point system and strictly follow to hold the fabric quality keep the best. 4 point system: Up to 3 inch 1 point 3 inch to 6 inch 2 point 6 inch to 9 inch 3 point Above 9 inch 4 point According to the 4 point system they inspect 10% of the fabric. After counting if average no is 28 then it is granted otherwise then 20% will be the coming in checking. At last if there is more than 28 then inspection will be hold for the total fabric roll. 28 is the granted no of fa- bric fault. Page 38 of 172

  39. Fig 1: Fabric Quality Inspection Report On the other side from each roll 22˝ cut as width wise and making blanket and then it goes to washing section to measuring its shrinkage. Shrinkage% = (After wash – Before wash) ÷ before wash) ×100. After washing how much fabric shrinked from its previous size that is measuring because when they got shrinkage result then they informed about fabric shrinking measurement. So when a readymade garment made then the percentage of shrinkage measurement put on it be- cause after washing the garment will be shrinked and don’t hold the actual buyer measure- ment which will be one of the main reasons to be rejecting the order. So it is the most impor- tant part of the checking the fabric shrinkage. Also shade will be the marked after washing. 50 cm/sq big blanket is making and send it to washing. Differences come out from the before wash and after wash. Shade variation differences come out from that. Lot card maintain by fabric store. In lot card keep information of different shade of each sample which is going to be easy that what buyer choose for them what they like. Color shade marked by serial no. There have 2 sets of sample of after wash and 3 sets of before wash sample. Then package Page 39 of 172

  40. will be made by the before wash and after wash sample. A lot card will be also included in the package which contains all information of that fabric samples. Sample Development section: Before going to bulk production of a sample that is trying to develop as per buyer require- ment. Buyer informed different types of styles, color, shades through email, standard body or picture. To achieve buyer requirement there have been followed different types of process. Wet process and dry process is the main process to achieve the different types of styles and outlook. Wet process is direct connected with washing and in dry process whisker, scraping, laser, sand blasting, 3D, wrinkle making, grinding, tagging are followed. Sample section is the miniature of the whole bulk production. First here trial the sample and when it confirmed by the buyer then it goes to bulk production. Sample section consists of: Types of machine: (Wet)  Washing machine  Hydro extracting machine  Drying machine For dry process:  Hand whisker paper  Hand sand  Destroy machine  3D machine  PP spray machine Types of Operation:  Sample Development  Shrinkage test  Blanket test Page 40 of 172

  41. M/C Used:  Tonello- 1 pc  Tolker- 4 pcs  NGAI shing- 6 pcs  Hydro extracting m/c- 1 pc  no. of Dummy(3D)- 3 pcs  Dryer m/c- 8 pcs Style wise process development: Pattern make Hand whisker Sand blasting Tagging Desize Rinse Engyme wash with stone Rinse Bleach Rinse Neutral Page 41 of 172

  42. Hydro & Dryer Destroy area mark Destroy Grinding PP spray Neutral GAP style follow up process:  Standard sample comes from the buyer. Then 1stsample developed and send it to buyer and then buyer approved the sample.   Pattern will be cut down and ready or the bulk production.  As per buyer requirement pattern design made on the marker ready to make the Whisker.  By the help of pattern whisker is made on the both side of the body. Page 42 of 172

  43. Engyme is done.  Then tearing or destroy will be done if buyer want as their style.  PP spray (make more whiteness for shinning).  Neutralize (Meta by sulphate).  Sample goes to buyer for approved.  If they like then it goes to bulk production or make correction on the sample body.  Before packing for quality control check the finishing. Page 43 of 172

  44. Flow chart of wet process: Page 44 of 172

  45. Wet process receipe from a specific buyer:- Buyer: C&A Style: 108B Receipe for: 100 pcs Hand whisker-Hand sanding-Tagging-Tie Process Chemical Water Temp Time name Name Desize D-80 600L 60c 20 mins LP-30 Rinse 800L 2 times Engyme Powder En- 500L 45c 20 mins gyme LP-30 ID Rinse 80L 2 times Page 45 of 172

  46. Bleach Silicon Paste 700L RT 2 mins Rinse 800L 2 times Neutral Hypo 600L 50c 5 mins Rinse 800L 2 times Then, Hydro, Dryer, 3D, PP Spray After PP spray Process Name Chemical Water Temp Time PP Neutral Meta 600L 50c 3 mins Rinse 800L Cleaning ID 600L 50c 3 mins Rinse 800L Then complete to Hydro dryer, Q/C Check, Audit, then it goes to delivery section. Page 46 of 172

  47. Flow chart Of Dry Process: Page 47 of 172

  48. Dry Process: There are different processes followed in dry process. Here try to describe most of them: Hand Whisker: Hand whisker is one type of process by which surface color of garments is [partially removed according to standards with the help of scraping paper which paper is classi- fied as 180, 220, 320, 400&600. But GAP buyer always wants that 400 and 600 scraping paper have been used. For hand whisker first of all make pattern according to buyer design and tent put into the body and make effect on the body side. Fig 2: Different types of pattern according to Buyers specification Page 48 of 172

  49. Fig 3: Pattern made followed by a Style Fig 4: Try to making effect on the body Page 49 of 172

  50. Fig 5: Clear effect on the body Fig 6: Standard Body measurement Page 50 of 172

More Related