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INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD

sheshir
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INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF BISWAS GROUP LTD. 1

  2. TABLE OF CONTENTS Serial No. Topic Page No. 01 Introduction 05 02 Company Profile 06 03 Knitting Section 12 04 Quality Control 30 05 Batch Section 33 06 Dyeing Lab 35 07 Dyeing 39 08 Finishing Section 68 09 Fabric Inspection 75 10 Quality Assurance system 77 11 Maintenance 79 12 Utility 85 13 Effluent Treatment Plant 89 14 Conclusion 91 2

  3. INTRODUCTION By means of practical knowledge its not possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in thepractical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equal importance in association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provide us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various processing stages. It is also provide us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. Textile education cannot be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. We got an opportunity to complete our industrial training at BISWAS SYNTHETIC LTD. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and printing unit in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing. 3

  4. COMPANY PROFILE GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE COMPANY: Biswas Group was established in 1985 Biswas Group deals in Apparels, Textile and Accessories. Biswas Group have 9 fully automated garments factories in Dhaka. 7 associate factories in Dhaka. Product Range- Men's Women's Boys, Girls, Kids and Toddlers, T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Woven Women's Blouses, Men's Shirts, Pants/Shorts Casual/Denim Men's, Women's and kids, Jogging Suits, Swimwear, Nighwear, Winter Wear and All kinds of Accessories. Monthly Capacities : 43000 pcs woven bottoms, 300000 pcs woven tops, 380000 pcs pants, 600000 pcs knit tops, 30000 pcs knit bottoms. Work force - 9000 employees Sewing Lines : 100 Sewing Machines : 4567 Knitting Machines : 220 Weaving Machines : 300 Dying Machines : 47 Head office: J.S. Bhaban, 95, BirUttam C.R. Dutta Road (New)299/2A Sonargaon Road (Old), Dhanmondi, Dhaka-1205, Bangladesh Tel: 9668835-7,8611796,8610685,9673065 Fax: 88028613367 Email: babu@biswasgroup.com 4

  5. Web: www.biswasgroup.com Project location: 5

  6. 6

  7. Buyer: Aldi - Germany C & A - UK Calvin Klein- USA Carrera - Italy Defacto - Turkey Ecko– USA H & M - Sweden Hurley -USA Inditex - Spain JC Penney - USA Kenneth Cole - USA Kik - Germany LC Waikiki - Turkey/France Li & Fung - Internalional Lidl - Germany Oshkos -USA Roca Wear - USA Sol's - France Sears/K-Mart - USA Tema - Turkey Wal- Mart - Europe Zara – Spain 7

  8. General Manpower Organogram: Chairman Director Executive Director Production QualityAdminAccounts MarketingMaintenance Utility store security Production QualityAdmin Accounts Marketing Maintenance Utility store security ManagerManagerManagerManagerManagerManager Mngr. Mngr.officer Assistant Senior AdminAccountsMarketingMaintenanceUtilitystore Assist Manager Officer OfficerOfficerOfficer Engineer Engineer Officer Officer Senior Assistant Cashier Fore man Assistant Helper security Production Officer Admin Engineer Guard Officer Officer Fitter man Worker Production Lab Helper Worker officer Assistant Assistant Lab Worker Production Boy officer Machine Operator Helper Worker 8

  9. Shifting: In Biswas Synthetic Ltd. the whole day production time is divided into 2shift. Per shift 12 hours. Shift Shift A Shift B Duration 8:00 am- 8:00 pm 8:00pm – 8:00 am Responsibility of Production officers: 1.To give dyeing program slip. 2.To match production sample with target shade. 3.To collect production sample lot sample matching next production, 4.To observe dyed fabric during finishing running & also after finishing. 5.To identity disputed fabrics & report to P.M/G.M. for necessary actions. 6.To discuss with P.M about overall production if necessary. 7. To sign the store requisition & delivery challan in the absence of P.M. 8.Also to execute overall floor works. 9.To maintain loading'/unloading khata. 10.Any other assignment given by higher authority. Title :Production Office Report To Job Summary: : Sr. Production Officer. To plan, execute & follows up the production activities &. control the quality … production with related activities. Duties & Responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Batch preparation & pH I chock. Dyes & chemical requisition issue & check. Write Fabrics loading & unloading time from m/c Program making, sample checking, colour measurement Control the supervisors,operator, ass. operator and helper of 9

  10. Dyeing m/c. And also any other over work as & when required by the management. : Sr. Production Office Report To :Manager Job Summary: Title To plan.execute& follows up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities. Duties & Responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisors & workers. To trained up& motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Control the supervisor, operator, Asstt. Operator & helper of dyeing. 10

  11. KNITTING SECTION 11

  12. Knitting section layout: Wash room Office QC Store 12

  13. Process flow diagram of knitting: MERCHANDISER SAMPLING TESTING ORDER PLACEMENT BY BUYER YARN PROCURED & STORE FABRIC MADE (YARN TESTING) PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE PRODUCTION QUALITY INSPECTION 13

  14. Process control of knitting: Yarn in cone form Creels Pipe Knot catcher Tension disk Inlet stop motion Yarn guide PF Wheel Out let stop motion Guide Needle Fabric Fabric take up roller Inspection Numbering 14

  15. Knitting: Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each raw of such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. The fundamental structure unit of a knitted fabric is the loop. Any circular knitted fabric is composed of row after row of intermeshed loops. Different types of fabric are made of different method of intermeshing the loop. The gross dimension of knitted fabric is simply a relation of average shape and size of individual loop. There are several key variables in the production which affect the average shape and size of the loop. After knitting the grease fabric is dyed to required shade and finished to required weight and width. Classification of knitting: Knitting Warp knitting Weft knitting Circular knitting Flat knitting Single jersey Double jersey Warp knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made from each warp thread is formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Characterized by the fact that each warp thread is feed more or less in the line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. Weft knitting: A method of making a fabric by normal knitting means is which the loop made from each weft thread formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Characterized by the fact that each warp thread is feed more or less in the line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. 15

  16. Single jersey: A fabric in which all the loops of the Wales are intermeshed in one direction is called single jersey. Only cylinder is used to make single jersey fabric. Double jersey: A fabric in which all the loops of the alternate wales/wales are intermeshed in one direction and all the loops of the other wales knitted t the same course are intermeshed in the other direction is called the double jersey. Dial and cylinder are used to make this type of fabric. Primary knitting elements: Needle: The needles are the most important stitch forming elements. They are displaced vertically up and down and are mounted into the tricks or cuts of the knitting cylinder. There are three types of needles namely: 1) Latch Needle. 2) Spring bearded Needle and 3) Compound Needle. The main function of needle is loop formation. Cams: Cam is the second primary knitting element. The cams are the mechanical device which convert the rotary machine drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles or other elements came are carefully profiled to produce precisely time movement and dwell periods. Types of knit cam: 1.Knit cam 2.Tuck cam 3.Miss cam 16

  17. Sinker: Sinker is a thin metal plate with action at right angles to and fro between adjoining needles. Functions of Sinker: 1) Loop formation: The main objects of a sinker are to assist the needles in loop formation by sinking or knitting the newly laid yarns into a loop. 2) Holding down: It also holds down the loops at a lower level of the needles stems and prevents the old loops from being lifted as the needles raise to clear them for their hooks. 3) Knocking over: The function is knocking over at which the needle passes through the old loop by drawing a new loop. End Products of Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine: 1.S/J Plain 2.Single Lacoste 3.Double Lacoste 4.Single pique 5.Double pique 6.Terry 7. Fleece End Products of Rib Machine: a)1x1 Rib b)2x2 Rib c)Honeycomb 17

  18. Cam arrangement: ▲→ Knit Cam Π→ Tuck Cam =→ Miss Cam Single Jersey: ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ Rib Stracture:▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼▼▼▼▼▼ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ Interlock:▼=▼=▼= =▼=▼=▼ = ▲ = ▲ = ▲ ▲ = ▲ = ▲ = Single pique: Π▲Π▲Π▲ ▲Π▲ Π▲ Π Double pique:ΠΠ▲▲ ΠΠ▲▲ ▲ ▲ ΠΠ▲ ▲ΠΠ Single Lacoste:Π▲ ▲ ▲ Π▲ ▲ ▲ ▲Π▲ ▲ ▲Π Double Lacoste:ΠΠ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ΠΠ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲▲Π Π▲ ▲ ▲▲Π Π Fleece fabric: = ▲ Π= ▲ Π▲ Π= = ▲ Π= ▲ Π▲ Π= = ▲ ΠΠ▲= ▲ΠΠ 18

  19. Machine profile of knitting section: Knitting Machine (Single Jersey) SLM/C Dia/Gauge 1 17x24 GG 2 18x24 GG 3 20x24 GG 4 22x24 GG 5 23x24 GG 6 24x24 GG 7 26x24 GG 8 28x24 GG 9 30x24 GG Total= M/C Quantity 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 9 Set Capacity (Per Day) 200 200 200 220 220 220 240 240 250 1990 kg Origin Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwann Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Brand Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Min Hua Knitting Machine (rib Interlock) SLM/C Dia/Gauge 1 30x18 GG/24 GG 2 32x18 GG/24 GG 3 36x18 GG/24 GG 4 38x18 GG/24 GG 5 42x16 GG/24 GG Total= M/C Quantity 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 4 Set 8 Set Capacity (Per Day) 300 300 350 350 1400 2700 kg Origin Taiwan Min Hua Taiwan Min Hua Taiwan Min Hua Taiwan Min Hua Taiwan Min Hua Brand Knitting Machine (Micro-Polar) SL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 M/C Dia/Gauge 26x18 GG 32x19 GG 28x19 GG/24 GG 19 Set 30x18 GG 30x19 GG 30x24 GG 32x24 GG 38x19 GG Total= M/C QuantityCapacity (Per Day) 7 Set 1750 47 Set 10750 5320 7 Set 2450 31 Set 10850 10 Set 3500 1 Set 350 1 Set 350 119 Set 35320 kg Origin Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Brand SandaDask SandaDask SandaDask SandaDask SandaDask SandaDask SandaDask SandaDask 19

  20. Knitting Machine CVC Fleece (Cross/Straight Terry) SLM/C Dia/Gauge 1 30x18 GG 2 30x20 GG Total= M/C Quantity 6 Set 2 Set 8 Set Capacity (Per Day) 2100 700 2800 kg Origin Taiwan Taiwan Brand Min Hua Min Hua Flat Rib 1 60x20 GG Total= 6 Set 6 Set 2400 Pcs 2400 pcs Chaina Sen Huang 20

  21. Knitting variables: Yarn count Yarn twist Spinning system No. of ply of the yarn Stitch length  Yarn tension Required time (M/C running time); Take down tension Yarn quality Machine gauge Machine Diameter Machine rpm No. of feeds or feeders in use Machine running efficiency. Machine pitch (t) : Is defined as the distance between the centers of two adjacent Needle of the same needle row indicated in mm. 25.4 Pitch = m.m Gauge(E) Machine gauge (E) : Machine gauge denotes the number of needles per inch , arranged On the needle carrier and based on the nominal machine diameter . 25.4 Gauge (E) = mm. Pitch Loops : It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously Basic unit . Stitch : The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics is the stitch . It consists of a yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops Stitch length:Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needle loop & half the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger the stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, opacity & bursting strength. 21

  22. Raw materials for knitting: Type of yarn Count 20S, 22S,24s,26s,28s,30s,32s, 34S, 40S 75D,150D 20D,40D Cotton Polyester Lycra yarn PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S Key accessories used in Circular knitting: Yarn feeder guide Needle Sinker Cam Cylinder VDQ pulley Pattern wheel Sinker cam cap Sinker trick ring Dial Needle retaining spring Cam box cam plate Inventor Belt 22

  23. Production calculation: A.Production/shift in kg B.Efficiency: 23

  24. Relationship between knitting parameter: 1. Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch Decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales Per inch increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use 7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM Yarn Twist and Yarn Count: The amount of twist is an important factor in finished consumers’ goods. It determines the appearance as well as the durability and serviceability of a fabric. Fine yarns require more twist than coarse yarns. If the yarn twist increase, the yarn strength increase up to certain level after that yarn strength decrease. The twist factor for combed cotton yarns for knitted fabrics should not exceed 3.7, whereas in case of carded yams, a twist factor up to 3.9 is tolerated of yarns for knitted fabrics . In case of knitting yams a part of the yarn strength has to be sacrificed for a better and softer handle Yarns with low twist are used for knitted fabrics, yarns with high twist are used for crepe yarns Yarnswith average twist are used for regular woven fabrics. 24

  25. Effect of stitch length on color depth: If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller Knitting defect & remedies : Fault name 1. Hole Mark Causes # yarn breakage or yarn cracks. # If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density. # Badly knot or splicing. # Yarn feeder badly set. # If yarn tension too high Remedies #Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. #Use proper count of yarn. #Correctly set of yarn feeder. #Knot should be given properly image 2. Needle Mark # When a needle breaks down. # If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends . # If needle does not catch yarn . # Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. 3.Star Mark # Yarn tension variation during production. # Buckling of the needle latch. # Low G.S.M fabric production # Maintain same Yarn tension during production. # Use good conditioned needles. 25

  26. 4.Drop Stitches # Defective needle. # If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook. # Take-down mechanism too loose. # Insufficient yarn tension. # Badly set yarn feeder. #Needle should be straight & well. # Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. # Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. # Yarn tension should be properly. 5.Bariness # Use of irregular yarn having higher long term irregularities. # Using different count thread. # Remove irregular yarn # Use proper yarn count #We can use it for white fabric 6.Loop # If needle latch is hard or curve. # if yarn tension is loose . # Clean or change the needle. # Set proper yarn tension 26

  27. 7.Lycra out Cause by If lycra is missed or Lycra attach with the yarn Check the feeder and attatchlaycra. 8.Seat up (cloth fallout) # if needle latch is not work properly/jaum # Causes by thick yarn # Improper/large knot Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch. 9.Oil mark # Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics. # Well maintenance as well as proper oiling. # Excessive oil flow in the needle # Leakage of oil line 27

  28. 10.Fly # Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time. # By cleaning the floor continuously. # By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor. # Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production. 11.Yarn contamination # If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing, # If lot, count mixing occurs # By avoiding lot, count mixing. # Fault less spinning. 12.Sinker Mark # When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes. # If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes Sinker should be changed 28

  29. Quality Control Quality assurance system of knitting division: The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing. After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dying. Quality assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here. Quality control On-lineOff-line Quality control equipment: Following equipment are used to ensure proper quality of the produced fabric Yarn tension meter Stitch length meter  Magnifying glass  GSM cutter etc On- line: 1.Grey GSM of the fabric 2.Grey inspection 3.Stitch length 4.In coming good quality check Off- line: 1.Check diameter, GSM, unevenness, dead fiber, hairiness, thick and thin place, and contamination 2.Shrinkage % 3.Spirality Body inspection: All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre effect, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubsetc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system. 29

  30. Collar & cuff inspection: Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded. Quality Control Standard Value: Fabric inspected by 4-point system. Shortly describe about 4-point system. This is the universal system for the inspection of grey and finished fabric. In this system, we count penalty point for different kind of defect as well as according to the defect size. Different types of defect may come from yarn fault, manufacturing fault, transportation fault. Parameter of penalty point: Hole-H Rus Stain-RS Oil Stain-OS Missing Yarn-MY Fly/Contamination-F/c Slubs-S Needle drop-ND Four point grading system Size of defects Penalty 3 inches or less 1 point Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point Over 9 inch 4 point Any hole 4 point All holes, regardless of size will be penalized 4 point. 30

  31. Calculate points per 100 square yards fabric: Actual points counted 36   100 = Actual Roll length Actual width = points/ 100 sq. yards Classification of Inspection Fabric: < 40 points = A 41-60 points = B 61-80 points = C 80 above = Reject. Acceptance: Generally any piece of fabric with 40 points or less faults per 100sq. yard is allowed to pass however for a roll, the average value should not exceed 18point per 100sq.yard.More than 40points faults per 100sq yard is recorded as “REJECT”. Defects For Rejection: Patta-P Continuous Star-CS Sinker Mark-SM Wrong Design-WD Poor Elasticity-PE Major thick Needle Line NL 31

  32. Batch section Batching: Primarily batching is done by batching section which is supervised by dyeing manager. The main function of batching section is to prepare the batch for dyeing according to machine capacity, order and emergency. This section receive the grey fabric from knitting section and make batch according to order for particular shade. Then this batch delivers to dyeing section for dyeing. Function or purpose of Batch section: To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source. Turn the gray fabric if require. Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria: Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white) Machine capacity. Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric) Emergency order. Fabric construction (single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, Pique etc.) To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep record. Proper Batching Criteria: To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine. To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time. To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade. Batching Ratio Calculation; Batching Ratio = (Fabric Dia × Batch quantity) / Total quantity 32

  33. Process flow chart of Batch preparation: Receive the order sheet from in-charge Make the batch card on the priority of shipment Take the Batch card which order have to deliver first Check the availability of the fabric Take require quantity of body fabric from the store Take collar/cuff as per size and keep the total weight Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally ensuring equal length. Turn off the fabric (if necessary) Stitch the fabric Write down weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch card Write the total weight in the batch card Fill up the Production report form Deliver the Fabric to dyeing section 33

  34. Dyeing Lab In every dye house, a laboratory equipped with machines & equipment is essential. It assists in production prediction, minimization of time consumption and wastage reduction. It is also producing the product of desired quality. Prior to the bulk production, laboratory plays a vital role in shade matching & detecting the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals to be used in the large scale of production. In Biswas Synthetic Ltd. dyeing Lab is divided into two section. Chemical Lab Quality Lab Quality Lab: Quality lab performs all testing on finished fabric. Chemical lab: Chemical lab performs all shade matching and other chemical tests for Bulk dyeing Production. Lab dip: Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with The help of “DATA COLOR” or see the previous matching sample or give the recipe by the practical experience, Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task before bulk production. Key accessories for Lab: Data color computer Lab, receive file Electronic Blench Plastic/Glass beakers Steel stirrer Scissors Stainless reference & dyeing beakers Dryer Variable light box Electric Heater 34

  35. Lab Dip Procedure to Dyeing Floor Or Bulk Production: Receive swatch Spectrophotometer inspection Ref. recipe Stock solution preparation Sample measuring Dyeing Unload and wash in cold water Hot wash with detergent Wash in cold water Squeeze and Dry Preparing Lab dip If not ok send to buyer if ok Send recipe for sample dyeing Sample Dyeing Available Stock Solutions: For dyes: Red –0.01, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% Yellow – 0.01, .01, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% Blue - 0.01,0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% For chemical: NaOH – 10% stock solution Salt – 25% stock solution Soda - 25% stock solution 35

  36. Range of Salt and Soda according to the shade %: Shade % Glauber salt(g/l) Soda ash(g/l) .001 – 0.5 20 6 0.51 – 1.0 30 8 1.01 – 2.0 40 10 2.01 – 3.0 50 12 3.01 – 3.5 60 15 3.51 – 4.2 70 18 4.21 - 5.10 80 20 5.11 above 100 20 Recipe Calculation: Total Liquor=4x50=200 cc Dye solution=(sample weight x recipe amount% )/stock solution% cc Salt required=(total liquor x recipe %)/ (1000 x stock solution%) cc Soda Solution =(total liquor x recipe %)/ (1000 x stock solution%) cc SAMPLE CALCULATION FOR 1% SHADE: Sample wt. = 5 mg Material liquor ratio = 1: 8 Total liquor (5  8) = 40 cc 36

  37. 5  1% Dye solution required == 5 cc 1.0% 40  30 Salt solution required = 4.8 cc 1000  25% 40  8 Soda ash solution required = = 1.28 cc 1000  25% Water required {40 - (5 + 4.8 + 1.28)} = 28.92 cc Machine profile of Lab section: Laboratory Machine SLMachine Name M/C QuantityOrigin Brand 1 MSI 1 Set Taiwan Mingscape International Multi Light Color Compersion Cabinet 2 1 Set Taiwan Model: CT-100 3 Spector Photo Meter(Data color) 1 Set U.S.A Spectra flash SF-300 4 Rapid 4 Set Taiwan Labortex co. ltd 5 Dexter 2 Set Taiwan Yuan Shein 6 Labtec 1 Set Taiwan Newave lab equipment 7 Dryer 1 Set Taiwan Labortex co. ltd Total= 12 Set 37

  38. DYEING 38

  39. Layout of Dyeing section:Dyeing m/c Symbol Washing m/c Chemical Store Office Squeezer Squeezer Office squeezer Squeezer Fabric store Folding m/c office Office Folding m/c Office Folding m/c Office Squeezer Fabric store Batch section Office Dyeing lab 39

  40. Machine specification: Knit Dyeing Machine Capacity (Per Day) M/C QuantityOrigin SL Machine Name Brand 1 Dyeing M/C 300 1 Set Taiwan Toonggeng 2 Dyeing M/C 300 1 Set Taiwan Toonggeng 3 Dyeing M/C 300 1 Set Taiwan Toonggeng 4 Dyeing M/C 150 1 Set Taiwan Hsiang Fu 5 Dyeing M/C 150 1 Set Taiwan Hsiang Fu 6 Dyeing M/C 150 1 Set Taiwan HuanJenn 7 Dyeing M/C 90 1 Set Taiwan HuanJenn 8 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong wutaiwan 9 Dyeing M/C 750 1 Set Taiwan Tong wutaiwan 10 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong wutaiwan 11 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong wutaiwan 12 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong wutaiwan 13 Dyeing M/C 3000 1 Set Taiwan Tong wutaiwan 14 Dyeing M/C 3000 1 Set Taiwan Ak 15 Dyeing M/C 1500 1 Set Taiwan Ak 16 Dyeing M/C 1500 1 Set Taiwan Ak 17 Dyeing M/C 300 1 Set Taiwan Ak 18 Dyeing M/C 600 1 Set Taiwan Ak 19 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong geng 20 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong geng 21 Dyeing M/C 1800 1 Set Taiwan Tong geng 22 Dyeing M/C 4500 6 Set Taiwan Taiwan Total= 29040 yds 27 Set 40

  41. Woven Dyeing Machine Capacity (Per Day) 1500 1800 1800 1800 1800 1800 3000 13500 yds7 Set M/C QuantityOrigin 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set 1 Set SlMachine Name Brand 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Dyeing M/C Dyeing M/C Dyeing M/C Dyeing M/C Dyeing M/C Dyeinng M/C Dyeing M/C Total= Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Tong wutaiwan Tong wutaiwan Tong geng Tong geng Tong geng Tong geng Tong geng Jigger Dyeing Machine Capacity (Per Day) 3600 yds 6000 yds 6000 yds 15600 yds M/C QuantityOrigin 4 Set 4 Set 4 Set 12 Set SLMachine Name Brand 1 2 3 Jigger Dyeing M/C Jigger Dyeing M/C Jigger Dueing M/C Total= Korea Korea Korea Sung Moo Korea Shink Wang Kore Sung Moo Korea 41

  42. Process Flow Chart: Scouring & bleaching Hot wash Cold wash Peroxide killing Neutralization Enzyme wash Enzyme killing Normal wash Dyeing Soaping Acid wash Softening 42

  43. Dyeing: Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material through a dye (color). Dyes are obtained from flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and plants as well as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes. The other classes of dyes are known as synthetic dyes. These are based on a particular type of chemical composition. Some of these dyes are- Acid (Anionic) dyes, Basic (Cationic) dyes, Neutral dyes, sulfur dyes, vat dyes, reactive dyes, pigment dyes etc. Pretreatment: The term “pretreatment” covers all operations of preparing textile material for subsequent dyeing and finishing processes. Objective: The preparation of goods for dyeing and printing is a far important process than the production of white goods. Textile material to be dyed or printed must have the following properties: To increase the uniform absorbency all over the goods as much as possible. To remove all types of impurities as much as possible with minimum damage to fibres  To make fibres fit for dyeing. Fit for dyeing is a concept that explain a material which is completely ready for dyeing both externally & internally & conforms several requirements. Like- Required uniform absorbency Required Ph level. Required H2O2 level Required bi-carbonate level Minimum damage of fibre structure. Degree of whiteness: In the past, it was customary to regard the degree of whiteness as the most reliable criterion for judging the quality of the pretreatment. But now there are other factors governing the results obtained in subsequent operations. Today, therefore, the object of pretreatment is not a full bleach, but only a partial bleach as necessary to ensure good purity and brilliance of shade in subsequent dyeing or printing. Hydrophilic properties: High and uniform absorptive of the goods is essential. It is the hydrophilic properties that govern the evenness of uptake of the dyes and chemicals, particularly in cases where these are applied continuously 43

  44. Scouring: The main purpose of scouring textile material is to remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as completely as possible and leave the material in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing chemical or physical damage of fibre or fabric. Objective: 1. To remove natural as well as added impurities. 2. To produce hydrophilic characteristics. 3. To make goods cleaner. 4. To leave the material in a highly absorptive condition without undergoing chemical or physical damage. Basic principle: The scouring process of cotton consists of an alkali treatment in the presence of wetting and sequestering agents, in order to convert the impurities, other than natural coloring matter, into products which can be removed by aqueous washing. The processes occurring during the scouring are: • Saponifiable oils and free fatty acids are converted into soap. • Proteins are degraded to simple soluble amino acids or to ammonia. • Mineral matter is dissolved. • Unsaponifiable oils are emulsified by the soaps formed during the hydrolysis of the saponifiable matter. • Adventitious dirt is removed and retained in suspension by the soap. Factors involved in scouring: When cleaning soiled surfaces, five variables become involved that interact during scouring and they are as follows: 1. The nature of the surfaces to be cleaned. 2. The nature of the dirt or soil. 3. The chemicals to be used. 4. The nature of the water or solvent. 5. The nature of the detergent or soap. 44

  45. Bleaching: In the bleaching process the colored material is destroyed and thus to confer a pure white appearance to the fabric. Bleaching should also decolorize or remove any residual impurities left by scouring. An efficient bleaching process must ensure: 1. A pure and permanent white. 2. Level dyeing properties. 3. The fabric does not undergo tendering (chemical damage or degradation, which results in loss in tensile strength and hence the durability is affected) during bleaching. Objectives: Bleaching of cotton is carried out with two objects in view: 1. To achieve a high degree of whiteness, for goods that are to remain white or to be dyed in pastel shades; for goods to be dyed in dark shades, bleaching improves the brilliance. 2. To improve the even appearance of the goods by removing the husks. Enzyme wash: Enzymes are biological catalysts, mainly proteins, generated by an organism to speed up chemical reactions. They have an active site on which the substrate is attached, and then broken up or joined. Biopolishing is an enzymatic process for finishing of cellulosic materials such as cotton, linen, viscose, ramie and their blends with synthetic fibres. It is a process that removes fuzz and eliminates pilling in cellulosic garments. The enzyme performs a controlled hydrolysis of the cellulosic fibres in order tomodify the fabric surface. This keeps the garments looking new even after repeated washes. It also enhances color, feel and drapability. Its effects are permanent, without involving chemical coating of the fibre. Function: Improved resistance to pilling. A clearer and fuzz less surface structure. Superior finish with improved drapability and Softness 45

  46. Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers: Sl. No 01 02 Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers Acid dyes Basic dyes Wool, silk and Nylon Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk Cotton, Viscose and Linen. Cotton, Viscose and Linen. Cotton, Viscose and Linen. Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon. Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate Rayon. 03 Direct dyes 04 05 06 07 08 Azoic dyes Vat dyes Sulpher dyers Reactive dyes Disperse dyes Winch dyeing machine : A dyeing machine consisting essentially of a dye vessel fitted with a driven winch ( usually above the liquor level) which rotates and draws a length of fabric, normally joined end to end, through the liquor. Winch dyeing machines are a low cost design that is simple to operate and maintain, yet versatile in application proving invaluable for preparation, washing or after treatments as well as the dyeing stage itself. Description and Dyeing Method on Winch Dyeing Machine: The basic principle of all winch dyeing machines is to have a number of loops or ropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length , which are mostly immersed in the liquor in the bath. The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dyebath. At the front of the machine , above the top of the dye liquor , is a smaller reel, which is called jockey or fly roller. The fly roller remain free wheeling along with fabric rope. At the back of winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dye bath over the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion. From the dropped location , the fabric rope travels back . to be lifted and fed to winch wheel. The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M:L as compared with other dyeing machines. The process is conducted with very little tension . The total dyeing time is lengthier as compared to other machines. 46

  47. Advantages of Winch Dyeing : a. Construction and operation of winch are very simple. b. The winch dyeing machines are suitable for types of wet processing operations c. The winch dyeing machine is suitable for practically all types of fabrics ,which can withstand creasing in rope form processing. d. The tension exerted on winch is less than jigger, the material thus dyed is with fuller hand. e. The appearance of the dyed goods is clean and smooth on winch dyeing machines. Raw Material Used for Dyeing: Gray fabrics Dyes Chemicals Gray fabrics: Following types of gray fabrics are dyed: Single jersey Single jersey with lycra Lycra Rib Rib 1 x 1 Rib 2 x 2 Rib 2 x 1 Rib Polo Pique Interlock Fleece Micro fleece Polar fleece 47

  48. Dyes, Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Biswas Synthetic Ltd Auxiliaries 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Peroxide killer geizyme OEM Peroxide tesbilizerSR/Stopa-52 chemical Polyester leveling Melevel -lpf Polyester leveling Melevel-BFR Sequestering austol Soaping asugal-ALBI Wetting agent –proder-SCPC/LF White softener gensoft Fixing ecofix DR/SR Leveling drimegen W2R/ Texotech Anticrease-Pac(8460) Genifoam NS Special Chemicals 1 2 3 4 5 Brightener Leucophor BSB Brightener sun white Enzyme producto _EAPS-A/Genincor-Bf-1600/3500 Silicon softener Dowsil-DMAX Silicon softener silipinwor HD/MAttaX/Tubingal/get soft – SA852 Silicon softener Adilin NI Silpure FBR-5 6 7 Others 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 16 17 Other apritonnchemichel Other binder mtb chemical Other bleaching powder Other formic Acid Other glycerin Other oxalic acid Other pocket clear Other power wash Ne Other sandozin EH Other sodiamhydrose chemical Other ultra phor BN chemical Other urea chemical Jintex eco GD CONE JINTEX eco GS CONE Benlon2900(buffer acid) Chemical amound 48

  49. Dyes 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 Ciba blue FNR Dyes Ciba brill Blue FNG FyesFGFN Ciba red FN3G Dyes Ciba red FNR Dyes Ciba red WB Dyes Ciba Navy SG Ciba Red C2BL Ciba Navy WB Ciba yellow CRG Dyes Ciba yellow S3R Ciba yellow H2G Ciba Navy FNB Ciba Yellow F4G Dyes Ciba Yellow DN2R Dyes Ciba Orange FNR Dyes Ciba Orange W3R Dyes Dianix black CCR Dyes Dianix Blue SSB Dyes Dianix Navy CC Dyes Dianix Yellow SEG Dyes Drimarine Blue HFRL Dyes DrimarineBlueCLBRDyes Drimarine Red CL5B Dyes Drimarine Red RH3b Dyes DrimarineScariate HF3G Dyes DrimarineTarquise CLB Dyes Drimarine Yellow CL2R Dyes Drimarine Yellow HFR Dyes Reactive G. Yellow 3RS/MERL Reactive black B Dyes /AB/5 Reactive Red ME4BL Dyes Reactive Yellow H4GL Dyes Reactive Super black G Dyes/AG Reactobond yellow HW Dyes/AEY Reactobond Red Hw Dyes Reactive Navy WB Reattofex orange ME2RL Remazol Navy RGB Dyes Remazol Red RGB Dyes Remazol Blue RSPL Dyes Remazol RED RR Dyes Remazol Blue RR Dyes Remazol Yellow RR Dyes Imcozin Blue VCR 49

  50. Typical Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: Process Flow Chart Scouring &Bleaching: Fabric Loading Machine filling with water Chemical Inject at 40 0C Caustic Soda dozing at 600c for 10 min Run time 10 min. H2O2 Dozing at 700c dozing for 10 min Heating at 105 0C Run time 45 min. Cooling at 80 0C Drain Bath Normal hot wash at900c for 10 min Cold wash for 10 min Drain Process Flow Chart for Enzyme: Machine filling with water Acetic acid dozingat 40 0C Run 10 min PH Check Heating at 55 0C Dozing enzyme Run time 45 min. Drain 50

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