1 / 198

Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

Presentation about 'Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd'

sheshir
Download Presentation

Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author. Content is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use only. Download presentation by click this link. While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server. During download, if you can't get a presentation, the file might be deleted by the publisher.

E N D

Presentation Transcript

  1. SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Department of Textile Engineering INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd

  2. Acknowledgement A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, C-Text. ATI, the Head of the department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University, for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.I would also like to express our heartfelt thanks to Md. Fazley Elahi, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University for all necessary information for preparing this report. I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Monju, General Manager, N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd, who has allowed us to work in his organization within a congenial atmosphere during the industrial training period. I recognize Mr. Nipu, Manager (Dyeing) and Md. Shifon AGM (knitting) N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical matters while working in the organization. I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager, Knitting, Dyeing & Fishing, Garment and Accessories for enriching our knowledge on various fabric manufacturing and finishing processes with their excellent professional knowledge. My sincere appreciation goes to the entire N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. extending their hands of cooperation through out the training period. team for

  3. Name:N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. 1

  4. 1 CHAPTER : PROJECT DESCRIPTION 2

  5. 1.1. Introduction: Every one knows that learning is the best part of thinking possibility. In human life education is the primary source of learning process. We need to learn for particular points of theoretical parts it should be some lack of looking this function such a fabric making on a circular machine and dyeing and finishing process in practical. It should be looking and knows about the functions, running of this machine, Uses material, and manufacturing materials. It must be need for good practical knowledge and proper handling of the machine. Internship is making this opportunity. Because we have known theoretical knowledge but we have lack of industrial knowledge. It has to fill up for industrial attachment. N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. has getting this opportunity for me. NAZ Bangladesh Ltd is a knit composite industry. It is a 100% export oriented industry in Bangladesh. The factory is making about knitting, knit dyeing & finishing and knit garments. Due to the change in environment, the textile sector is facing a great challenge. But NAZ BD Ltd fully prepared to face this situation. The goal of NAZ BD Ltd is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh. N.A.Z has highly develop advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources, the Textile Division has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation's growing ready made garments export sector. The rational behind the existing structure and future expansion of the Textile & fiber Division is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process. Despite Bangladesh's lack of indigenous cotton production capability, N.A.Z. has leveraged Bangladesh's labor cost advantage and export competitiveness to the maximum. This factory is fully complained and very much concern about the labor law and compliance. This factory also concerned about environmental issue as they have well established Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). In NAZ Bangladesh Ltd., I have completed 2 months (8 weeks) long industrial training in knitting, dyeing, finishing and garments. During the training period we faced a lot of technical problem, which we solve by consulting with the related persons. Whatever knowledge we have gain during my training period, it will help us to build up our career as a Textile Technologist. 1

  6. Project Description 1.2. Layout of N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. ETP KNITTING SECTION Utility Building Fabric store ACCESSORIES UNITE UNDERCONSTRUC TION CHEMIffCfAL WORKSHO 3 STD OFFICE AND GARMENTS POND Printing Chemical store GATE ANSER CAMP E N POND Gate W S Dormitory 2

  7. Project Profile 1.3.Project Profile Company name N. A. Z. BANGLADESH LIMITED. House #21 , Road # 13, Baridhara, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212 Head Office 880-2-9861831, 9860445, 8854101 Extn: 128 / 156 Tel No 880-2-9889078 Fax nasir@nazbd.com, shamim@nazbd.com; salauddin@nazbd.com; E-mail www.nazbd.com URL 5, Bishuya Kuribari Bari, Mirzapur, Rajendrapur, Gazipur-1700 Factory 880-2-9289054-6 Tel No 880-2-9289053 Fax No HSJI 45~50 minutes drive from (Mymansingh) Airport to towards North Location Mr. Nasir Uddin Ahmed (Managing Director) Contact Phone :+88 01711 814 912 Contacted persons Mr. Salauddin Jakir (Merchandising Manger) Contact Phone: +8801714302133 Mr. Shamim Khan ( Sr. Merchandiser – Marketing & Merchandising ) Contact Phone: +88 01711 465 336 Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry. Legal Form of Company : Private Limited Company. Year of Incorporation : 1987 Commencement of Operations : 1987 Project cost : 250 crore Name of the Bank : Exim Bank Industrial Training 3 | P a g e

  8. Project Profile Main Production : T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tank tock, Jacket, Trousers, Bottoms, etc. and all kinds of Knit fabric & garments. Factory space : 9, 07,200 sq.ft. Total Employees : 3350 persons No. Of employees : 350 persons No. Of workers : 3000 persons Working Period : 3 (Three) Shift Per Day Production Capacity Knitting : 20 Tons/Day Dyeing & Finishing : 16 Tons/Day Garments : 55,000 Pcs/Day PC Printing : 25,000 Pcs/ Day Embroidery : 50,000,000 Stitches/Day Garments Wash : 25000 Pcs/Day 1.4.YearlyTurn Over Serial No 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 9 10 11 12 13 Year 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Turn Over (Per Year) US $ 7.02 Million US $ 8.20 Million US $ 9.65 Million US $ 10.56 Million US $ 12.76 Million US $ 15.86 Million US $ 17.65 Million US $ 20.00 Million US $ 22.00 Million US $ 25.00 Million US $ 25.00 Million US $ 26.00 Million US $ 28.00 Million Industrial Training 4 | P a g e

  9. Project Profile 1.5.Different Dipertment: Different sections of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. A. Knit section  Knitting  Inspection B. Dyeing section  Batch section  Dye house  Dyeing lab  Quality control  Finishing C. Garments section  Merchandising  Sample  Cutting section  Sewing section  Finishing section Different sections D. Sewing Thread Dyeing E. Printing Unit F. Embroidery Unit G. Accessories Unit H. Maintenance section  Electrical  Mechanical I. Utility:  Electricity  Gas  Water  Boiler  ETP J. Store section K. Administration section L. Security section M. Marketing section N. Production planning &control O. Human Resource & Development section Industrial Training 5 | P a g e

  10. Project Profile Supporting Department Personnel Administration Procurement Marketing HRD Finance & Accounting MIS (Management Information System) Work Study Complience & Safety Companies of N.A.Z. Group  N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.  N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. (Accessories Unit)  CA Knitwear Ltd.  Needle Touch Garments Ltd. Certifications: ISO Oeko Tex-100 Main Buyers of N.A.Z. Bangladesh LTD: SL BUYER COUNTRY TARGET USA 01 TESCO UK 02 H&M SWEDEN 03 WAL MART USA, CANADA, MEXICO 04 PUNTORAMA SPAIN 05 TRR ITALY 06 Industrial Training 6 | P a g e

  11. Project Profile 1.6.History of the project development After successful operation in N.A.Z. Group, the owner had decided to start a fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled modern readymade composite knit garments industry in large scale. It is situated at 5, Bishuya Kuribari, Mirzapur, Gazipur-1700, Bangladesh. In the year 1987 to manufacture knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, N.A.Z. Group Decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers. 1.7.Vision & mission of the project: The mission and vision of N.A.Z. Group is to manufacture and deliver high quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce. To attain these objectives, the management of N.A.Z. Group has decided to adopt the following-  To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the organization.  By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.  To collect customer’s feedback regularly to know about their conception about their company and to take timely appropriate action.  To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum’s implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the organization. Industrial Training 7 | P a g e

  12. Man Power Management 2 CHAPTER : MAN POWER MANAGEMENT Industrial Training 8 | P a g e

  13. Man Power Management 2.1.Manpower Organ gram Manpower organ gram of N. A. Z Bangladesh is as follows - Managing Director Executive Director GM (Marketing) GM (Production) Finishing & Q.C Manager Knitting Manager Dyeing Manager Asist. Manager Shift In-charge Asist. Manager Shift In-charge Deputy Manager Q.C Technician Sr. Production Officer Sr. Production Officer Production Officer Production Officer Assist. Production Officer Assist. Production Officer Sr. Operator Shift In-charge Operator Sr. Operator Operator Industrial Training 9 | P a g e

  14. Man Power Management 2.2.Management system          Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager. Matching is done under lab manager. Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager. Sample is send to the buyer for approval. Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production. Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager. Then shift in-charge with the supervisors start bulk production. On line and off line quality check is done by lab in-charge and asst. dyeing manager. After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the supervision of shift in-charge. Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.  Shifting: In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. The whole day production time is divided into 3 shift. Per shift 8 hours. Shift Duration Shift A 6:00 am- 2:00 pm Shift B 2:00pm – 10:00 pm Shift C 10:00 pm- 6:00 am 2.3.Duties & Responsibilities of Different Post General Manager     To deal with the buyer and merchandiser. To set up price for the product. To plan apply and control all administrative functions. To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman. Manager      To supervise the personal working under him. To plan the sequence of production. To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems. To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production? To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well. Industrial Training 10 | P a g e

  15. Man Power Management Deputy General Manager (DGM) production        Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing. Check the different log books in different areas and report to management. Check the plan to control the best output To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. Any other work as and when required. Senior Production Officer        Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. Batch preparation and pH check. Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check Write loading/unloading time from machine. Program making, sample checking color measurement. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. Any other work as and when required. Production officer  To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for the smooth running of the section. To match production sample with target shade. To match production sample lot sample matching next production. To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process. To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action. To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary. T sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM. To execute the overall floor work. To maintain loading/unloading paper.         Shift In charge     To follow the workers movement. Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening. To maintain the production sequence. To check the sample at certain time interval. Industrial Training 11 | P a g e

  16. Raw Materials 3 CHAPTER: RAW MATERIALS Industrial Training 12 | P a g e

  17. Raw Materials 3.1.Raw Materials Table 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting Square Spinning mill Basher spinning mill Prime Spinning mill Kamal spinning mill RK Spinning mill Aman spinning mill JK Spinning mill Fariha spinning mill AKIJ Spinning mill Shohagpur spinning mill Pahartoli Spinning mill Amber cotton mill Youth Spinning mill Rising spinning mill Kader Spinning mill Shirin spinning mill Silver Spinning mill NZ spinning mill Shemem Spinning mill Karim spinning mill Lycra: CREORA Made in Korea Type # H-100 (20D, 40D) Industrial Training 13 | P a g e

  18. Knitting Section 3.2.Types of yarn used and their count: Table 3. 2: Types of yarns used in N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd Type of yarn Count 20S,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S,40S, 45S Cotton 70D,100D,150D Polyester 20D,40D,70D Spandex yarn 24S, 26S Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S, 28S Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 3.3.Cost of Raw Materials: Table 3.3: Cost of yarn Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn 40/1 36/1 3.65 $/Kg 3.00 $/Kg 2.65-2.7$/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg 32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 28/1 2.65 $/kg 2.25 $/Kg 26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg 20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15-2.2$/Kg 14 | P a g e

  19. Knitting Section Lycra Yarn: 20 den - 12.70 $/Kg 40 den - 8.40 $/Kg 70 den - 7.50 $/Kg Cost of knitting Table 3.4: Cost of knitting for different fabrices Fabrics Taka/kg Rib (1x1) 12-13 Rib (2x2) 14-15 Interlock 15-16 Single Jersey 7-8 Lacost 8-9 Pique 8-9 Terry fleece 14-15 Remarks: As the yarn consumption totally depends on production and production depends on order of buyer, so recommendation of yarn type, source, price, requirements may vary. 15 | P a g e

  20. Knitting Section 4 CHAPTER : KNITTING UNIT 16 | P a g e

  21. Knitting Section 4.1.Organ gram of Knitting Department GM AGM Manager Sub Contract Inside Knitting Master Production Y/D Sub Contract Out Scorching R& D sample In charge Asst. Manager Asst.Manager Asst.Master Manager Manager Supervisor Sr.Fitter Sr.Production Officer Supervisor Asst.Manager Floor In charge Servicing -5 Asst.Operator-2 QC- 3 QC- 3 Shift C Shift A Shift B Shift Shift Shift Production Officer Production Officer Production Officer Shift In Charge Shift In Charge Shift In Charge APO APO APO 17 | P a g e Operator-40 Operator-40 Operator-40

  22. Knitting Section 4.2. Layout of Knitting Department Maintenance Fabric Store Room Office Room AGM Room Gate 18 | P a g e

  23. Knitting Section Circular knitting m/c Fire Extinguisher Hose Pipe V-Bed knitting m/c Fabric Rack Fabric inspection m/c Floor Marking 4.3.Knitting: Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlooping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it. Types of weft knitting m/c: The N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. is a self- sufficient modern company. Its knitting section is divided into two sections- 1. Flat Knitting Section 2. Circular Knitting Section 4.4.Circular knitting section: Main parts of circular knitting m/c: 1. Yarn feed guide 2. Latch needle 3. Holding down sinker 4. Needle cylinder 5. Needle retaining spring 6. Needle operating cams 7. Cylinder driving wheel 8. Cylinder driving gear 9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft 10. Sinker cam top 11. Cam box 12. Cam plate 13. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone. 14. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn. 15. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn. 16. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length. 17. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn. 18. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs. 19 | P a g e

  24. Knitting Section 19. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller. 20. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric 4.5.Basic knitting element: 1. Needle. 2. Sinker. 3. Cam. Needle: Function of needles: Needle is used to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new loop above it on the needle steam. Types of needle: In general there are three types of needles. a. Bearded needle. b. Latch needle. c. Compound needle. Hook Rivet Latch Steam Butt Figure 4.1: Latch Needle CAM: Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles or other elements. Types of cam: Two type of cam 1. Engineering cam Knit cam 2. Knitting cam Miss cam Tuck cam 20 | P a g e

  25. Knitting Section Function of CAM The functions of cam are as follows:     Produce motion to needles. Loop formation. Holding down. Knocking over Sinker: This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual and collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles. Function of sinker: It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action and consequent sinker shape and movement. Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:    GSM cutter Electronic balance Inspection m/c 4.6.Terms and definition of knitting: Course – A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle. Wales – A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle. Loop - It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft of woven structures termed “Wales” and “courses” respectively Stitch - The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop. Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop & half of the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength. Steps should be taken to change stitch length. - - - - Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing. Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley. Set of the position of carriage. Set the speed of take- up roller 21 | P a g e

  26. Knitting Section - Maintain the optimum yarn tension. Yarn count: Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn. Yarn count can be calculated in two systems: Direct system: In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner the yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Ly- cra and other synthetic fibers.  W w L  l  DirectCount Where, W=weight of the sample L=length of the sample w=unit weight of the system l=unit length of the system Table 4-1: Yarn Count in Direct system System Unit weight Unit length Uses Grams 1,000m Polyester Tex Grams 9,000m Lycra Denier Grams 10,000m Lycra D-Tex Pounds 14400yds Jute Pounds/Spyndle 22 | P a g e

  27. Knitting Section Indirect system: In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count finner the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton, worsted & woolen.   w L W  IndirectCount l Where, W=weight of the sample L=length of the sample w=unit weight of the system l=unit length of the system Table 4-2: Yarn Count in Indirect system System Unit weight 1 lb 1 kg 1 lb Unit length 840 yds 1 km 560 yds Uses Cotton yarn Cotton yarn Worsted yarn English (Ne) Metric (Nm) Worsted 1 lb 256 yds Woolen yarn Woolen Stitch Density - Courses per inch (CPI) × Wales per inch (WPI) M/C Gauge - A number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as the number of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit length in the knitted fabric. 4.7.Flat Knitting Section Flat knitting section consists of Flat knitting machines. Its main production is Collar & Cuff. Different types of designed collar & Cuff is produced here matching with the body of the garments. Flat knitting machine is used to make collar and cuff with the required shape. Collar and cuff is usually with heavier gsm and thus multiple ply of yarn is used per feeder. No of yarn ply used will also depend on the yarn count. Lycra is also used when required. 23 | P a g e

  28. Knitting Section Table 4-3: No. of yarn ply according to yarn count for collar & cuff Yarn count (Ne) 20 22 24 26 30 34 No. of yarn ply 3 3 4 4 4-5 6 Size of collar according to size of garments:    Boy’s collar Boy’s cuff Man’s: :Length 29 to 36 cm x width 8cm : Length 31 cm x width 3cm Table 4-4: Collar & Cuff measurements Size S M L XL XXL XXXL Collar measurement (cm) 40 x 9 42 x 9 44 x 9 46 x 9 48 x 9 50 x 9 Cuff measurement (cm) 40 x 3.5 40 x 3.5 40 x 3.5 40 x 3.5 44 x 3.5 44 x 3.5 Collar and cuff which is made with V-bed knitting machine has 3 edge and need not to cut. Those fabrics have following 4 parts: 1. Tube 2. Tube end 3. Body 4. Separation 24 | P a g e

  29. Knitting Section Sequence of operations in knitting section: Sample fabric Design analysis Setting the machine for the specific design Sample fabric production If No Buyer approval If Yes Bulk Production QC Send to Batching section 25 | P a g e

  30. Knitting Section Table 4-5:Main Product - Fabrics :- - - - - - - Single Jersey: Single Jersey (Lycra) Single Jersey (Auto Stripe) Single Jersey (Singed) Single Jersey (Pigment Dye) Single Jersey (Sueded / Ultra Soft) Single Jersey - - - - - Pique Pique (Auto Stripe) Pique (Sueded / Ultra Soft) Pique (Mercerized) Pique (Ultra soft) Pique - - - - - Interlock Interlock (Ultra soft) Interlock (Pigment Dye) Interlock D/N (Cotton) Interlock D/N (Polyester) Interlock - - - - - - Rib: Any Drop Needle Rib (Pigment Dye) Rib (Ultra soft) Rib Elastane Flat Back Rib Variegated Rib Rib Jacquard - Semi Jacquard Mesh - Mesh - - - - - - Fleece Fleece (Inside Brush) Fleece (Both Side Brush) Terry Fleece Polar Fleece Terry Fleece (Pigment Dye) Fleece - - - Lacoste Lacoste (Auto Stripe) Lacoste (Pigment Dye) Lacoste Waffle - Waffle Valor - Valor 26 | P a g e

  31. Knitting Section Table 4.6: Analysis of structure, looping diagram, cam arrangement and needle arrangement of knit fabric Single jersey fabric vertical Wales’s line is shown on the face side of the fabric. On the back side sinker loops are produced. This fabric is produced by the needles of only one set needle. This fabric has curling effect on the edge after cut in relax state towards the back at the sides and towards the front at the top and bottom. End use: basic T-shirt, men’s vest, fine cardigans, ladies hosiery, full-fashioned knitwear etc. Single Jersey Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K K K K Face Side Back Side Rib fabric shows the face loop on the both sides of the fabric. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in-between each other so that walse of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. This fabric has good elasticity and has no curling effect. End use: waist bands, cuffs and collars and typical applications, skirt belt, various types of fancy borders, sweaters etc. 1x1 Rib Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K M K M M K M K K M K M M K M K D C Back Side Face Side 27 | P a g e

  32. Knitting Section Interlock has same appearance on both sides, like face of plane, but its smooth surface cannot be stretched. Interlock process two sets of needles (short and long) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders. This fabric cannot be un roved from either sides and has no curling effect. End use: under wear, trouser, sportswear, t- shirts, polo shirts etc. Interlock Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement M K K M M K K M D C Face Side Back Side Single Lacost Single lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design appears on the back of the structure. The repeat of this structure completes on four courses. Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K T K K K K K T Face Side Back Side 28 | P a g e

  33. Knitting Section Double Lacost Double lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design near to the single lacost design. The repeat of this structure completes on six courses. Benzene structure is shown on back side of the fabric. Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K K K K T T K T T K K K Face Side Back Side Single Pique Single pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design appears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back side of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on two courses. Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K T T K Back side Face side 29 | P a g e

  34. Knitting Section Double pique Double pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design appears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back side of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on four courses. Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K K T T T T K K Face side Back side Fleece Fleece fabric is produced with the combination of knit, tuck and miss loops and this is s/j structure. Face side of the fabric is like face of s/j and miss loop will appear on the back side. If back side is brushed then called fleece fabric. Looping diagram Cam Arrangement Needle Arrangement K T K M K M K M K M K T Face side Face side 30 | P a g e

  35. Knitting Section 4.8.Specifications of knitting machines used in N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. Table 4.7. 1Single Jersey SL/ NO. M/C TYPE MC/ DIA M/C GAUGE FEED ER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S TYPE PRO. CAP/KGS REMARKS 1 S/J 19 24 57 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 200 2 S/J 20 24 60 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 225 3 S/J 21 24 63 2 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 450 4 S/J 22 24 66 2 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 500 5 S/J 23 24 69 3 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 750 6 S/J 22 24 66 2 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 500 7 S/J 23 24 69 3 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 750 8 S/J 25 24 75 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 300 Lycra Attachment 9 S/J 24 24 72 2 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 550 Lycra Attachment 10 S/J 25 24 75 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 300 Lycra Attachment 11 S/J 26 24 114 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 Lycra 31 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  36. Knitting Section Attachment 12 S/J 28 24 123 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 Lycra Attachment 13 S/J 26 24 114 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 Lycra Attachment Total 21 6025 Fleece + 2 Thread Fleece + 3 Thread Fleece Table 4-7. 2 SL/ NO. M/C TYPE MC/ DIA M/C GAUGE FEEDER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S TYPE PROD CAP/KGS REMARKS 1 Fleece 28 20,24 90 1 MAYER & CIE GERMAN Y S/J ,Fleece 400 Lycra Attachment 2 Fleece 30 20,24 96 1 MAYER & CIE GERMAN Y S/J ,Fleece 400 Lycra Attachment 3 Fleece 32 20,24 102 1 MAYER & CIE GERMAN Y S/J ,Fleece 450 Lycra Attachment 4 Fleece 34 20,24 108 1 MAYER & CIE GERMAN Y S/J ,Fleece 500 Lycra Attachment 5 Fleece 32 20,24,28 96 1 Fukahama TAIWAN S/J ,Fleece 350 Lycra 32 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  37. Knitting Section Attachment 6 Fleece 34 20,24,28 102 1 Fukahama TAIWAN S/J ,Fleece 400 Lycra Attachment Total 6 2500 Rib + Interlock + Flat Back Rib + Drop Needle Table 4-7. 3 SL/ No. M/C TYPE MC/ DIA M/C GAUGE Fee der QT Y BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S TYPE Prod cap/kg REMARKS 1 Rib+Interlock 30 14,18 62 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 300 Lycra Attachment 2 Rib+Interlock 34 14,19 70 3 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 350 Lycra Attachment 3 Rib+Interlock 36 14,20 74 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment 4 Rib +Interlock 36 14,20 74 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment 5 Rib +Interlock 38 14,21 78 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 500 Lycra Attachment 6 Rib +Interlock 36 16,22 72 1 Fukahama TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 350 Lycra Attachment 7 Rib +Interlock 38 16,23 76 1 Fukahama TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment 8 Rib +Interlock 40 18,22 84 3 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment 33 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  38. Knitting Section 9 Rib 40 16 80 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib +F/Rib 800 F/Look lycra Attach 10 Rib 42 18 84 4 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib +F/Rib 400 F/Look lycra Attach 11 Interlock 38 24 114 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN INTERLOCK 400 Lycra Attachment 12 Interlock 40 24 120 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN INTERLOCK 400 Lycra Attachment 13 Interlock 42 24 126 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN INTERLOCK 400 Lycra Attachment 14 RIB 34 15 24 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN RIB 200 Lycra Attachment Total 21 5700 Table 4.7.1 Terry = S/J + Terry / Terry Fleece + Velor + Polar Fleece etc. M/C TYPE MC/ DIA M/C GAUGE FEEDER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’ S TYPE PROD CAP/KGS REMARKS 1 Terry 42 20 68 2 MAYER & CIE Germany Terry 1000 Lycra Attachment Total 2 1000 34 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  39. Knitting Section Table 4.7. 4 Auto Stripe + Feeder Stripe (S/J + Pique + Lacoste + Other Design) SL/ NO. M/C TYPE MC/ DIA M/C GAUGE FEE DER QT Y BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC PROD CAP/KGS REMARKS TYPE 1 Auto Stripe 34 24 48 4 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 300 Lycra Attachment Auto Stripe 36 24 48 4 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 350 2 Lycra Attachment Auto Stripe 38 24 48 2 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 400 3 Lycra Attachment Total 8 1050 Table 4.7. 5: V-bed knitting m/c SL/ NO. M/C TYPE MC/ DIA M/C GAUGE FEEDER QT Y BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC TYPE PROD CAP/KGS REMARKS 1 Flat Knit 0 14 8 6 Snima Seiki Japan Collar/Cuff 1400 Lycra Attachment 2 Flat Knit 0 14 12 1 Stoll Germany Collar/Cuff 700 Lycra Attachment Total 7 2100 35 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  40. Knitting Section 4.9.Quality Standard: N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib fabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points are given against the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. Table 4.8: four point system for knit fabric Four Point Grading System Size Of Defects Penalty 3 inches or less 1 point Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point Over 9 inch 4 point Any Hole 4 Point Typical knitting calculations: The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below: Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch. Total needles: Machine diameter× Gauge×3.416 Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter×3 Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter×2 Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm For single jersey fabric: 4320  Yarn Count Fabric Gsm For Double jersey fabric: 36 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  41. Knitting Section 6000  Yarn Count Fabric Gsm Relation between fabrics finished Gsm, stitch length, fabric gsm, yarn count: For Single Jersey fabric: 590 Ks    Stitch Length Yarn Count Finished Gsm Where, For s/j, Ks=19.6 For 1x1 rib, Ks=26 For Interlock, Ks=38 Fabric Thickness: Fabric thickness = 4D Here, D= yarn dia (in relaxed state) Tightness Factor: Tex  , here stitch length is in mm Tightness Factor Stitch Length Production per shift:   D G S L F       60 8  .  RPM efficiency  Pr oduction per shift Kg 1000 840  ) 36 2.2028   yarncount Ne ( Where,  D= Machine dia  G= Machine gauge  S.L.=Stitch length  F= No. of feeder 4.10. Remarks: knitting section is equipped with a large number of machines. But some modern knitting machine should purchased including engineering stripe machine with Lycra attachment facility. 37 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  42. Lab Section 5 CHAPTER : BATCH SECTION 38 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  43. Lab Section 5.1. Batching: Primarily batching is done by batching section which is supervised by dyeing manager. The main function of batching section is to prepare the batch for dyeing according to machine capacity, order and emergency. This section receive the grey fabric from knitting section and make batch according to order for particular shade. Then this batch delivers to dyeing section for dyeing. Function or purpose of Batch section:  To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.  Turn the gray fabric if require.  Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:  Order sheet (Received from buyer)  Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)  Machine capacity.  Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)  Emergency order.  Fabric construction (Single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)  To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.  To keep record. Proper Batching Criteria:  To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine.  To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time.  To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade. 5.2.Calculations related to batch section:  Dia cm ( ) GSM  Grams perlinearmeter 100  kg per Chamber Grms per linear meter 1000  Meters Per Chember Now, when a gram per linear meter is low then meters per chamber will be more. Thus, fabric loading should be reduced to avoid jamming in the winch. In this case 80-85% fabric 39 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  44. Lab Section loading is given. But when gram per linear meter is more then rope length will reduce and in this case up to 90% fabric loading can be given. Preparing the fabric ropes The fabric ropes for each chamber should be prepared in batching section. The fabric rolls are correctly sewn together. This will minimize the time required to load the machine, and avoid the risk of rope entanglement. Fabric loading in the m/c will vary with the type of fabric and the width of the fabric and the amount is not less than 50% of the machine nominal load. 5.3.Calculating the chamber loading In the following table are listed general recommendations covering rope cycle times and speeds for a wide range of fabrics: Fabric Rope cycle times in minutes Rope circulation speed m/min Knit fabric PES unfixed 1 250 PES heat set 1-1.5 200 PC 1-2 250 Co - reactive 2-3 225-275 For calculation the following diagram shows the weight per running metre of a fabric in grams, and the corresponding rope weight and length. e.g. a fabric of 200 gm/running metrewith rope length of 800 metres will have a dry weight of 160 kg. 40 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  45. Lab Section Kg 360 340 320 300 280 500g 400g 350g 260 550g 300g 275g 250g 225g 240 200g 220 200 175g 180 150g 160 125g 140 120 100g 100 80 Grms/running meter 60 40 20 0 1200 1000 800 600 200 400 Rope length(m) 41 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  46. Lab Section Figure 5-1: Rope length (m) and fabric wt loading on m/c depending on the grams per running meter of fabric Turn over time The following diagram shows the relationship between winch speed and rope length necessary to reach a required turn over time. m/min 600 500 1 2 400 Winch speed m/min 3 300 4 5 200 6 100 0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200 Rope length(m) Figure 5-2: Rope length depending on winch speed It is also possible to reverse the procedure and calculate the maximum rope length with a fabric of a particular weight, having determined the winch speed and circulation time. For example: 100% Cotton, Reactive dyeing: Circulation time = 3 minutes Winch speed = 250 m/min Rope length = 3 mins x 250 m 42 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  47. Lab Section = 750 meters If the rope is shorter, so that the same rope circulation time and nozzle contacts are maintained during the cycle, the winch speed should be reduced. Rope length 690 m Circulation time 3 mins = 230 m/min (winch speed) Calculation of the the rope length If Rope weight is 105 kg (weightper running metre) 200 kg/rm = 525 m (rope length) Calculation of the winch speed If Rope length is 540 m Cycle time 3 mins Then Winch speed = 180 m/min Number of nozzle passages (Process time) 360 mins (Cycle time) 3 mins = 120 (nozzle passages) 5.4.Batch management Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency Machines in Batch section: Fabric turning m/c: Machine Name Brand Name Origin M/c Speed Model Company : Air turning m/c : Taida : China : 300-500m/min : DF 200 : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd. 43 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  48. Lab Section 5.5.Process flow chart of Batch preparation: Receive the order sheet from in-charge Make the batch card on the priority of shipment date Take the Batch card which order have to deliver first Check the availability of the fabric Take require quantity of body fabric from the store Take collar/cuff as per size and keep the total weight Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally ensuring equal length. Turn off the fabric (if necessary) Stitch the fabric Write down weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch card Write the total weight in the batch card Fill up the Production report form Deliver the Fabric to dyeing section 44 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  49. Lab Section Precautions during batch making Check whether count variation is occured or not Check whether lot variation is occured or not Check whether rib fabric is included or not Be sure about the packing instruction , whether it is Solid color solid size Solid color assorted size Assorted color assorted size Assorted color solid size 45 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

  50. Lab Section 6 CHAPTER : LAB SECTION 46 | P a g e Industrial Attachment

More Related