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Southeast University Department of textile BASIS OF INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. CHANDORA, KALIAKOIR, GAZIPUR, BANGLADESH.
STARTING BY THE NAME OF ALMIGHTY ALLAH WHO IS THE CREATOR OF ALL CREATION MOST POWERFULL MOST MERCIFULL
TABLE OF CONTENT NAM E OF SECTION COMPANY PROFILE PAGE NO. 06 KNITTING SECTION 07 QUALITY CONTROL SECTION 23 DYEING SECTION 26 PROJECT WORK 33
Company Profile Basic Information Company Name: INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. Business Type: 100% Knit Garments Manufactures Number of Employees: Above 25000 t0 30000 People Address: Head Office: House # 43 (1stFloor) Road # 35A (New), Gulshan-2, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh Ph: (+88 02) 881 7674, 882 2205 Fax: (+88 02) 988 2320 Email: info@icl.bdrmg.com
KNITTING SECTION CIRCULAR & FLAT
It is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops. Each raw of such loop hanging from the one immediate preceding it.
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
Raw material Types In knitting section, for knitting fabrics only yarn is used as raw materials. 1. Cotton yarn: (A). Combed. (B). Carded. 2. Polyester yarn: (A). Normal. (B). Micro. 3. CVC. 4. Grey Melange (C-90%, V-10%) 5. Ecru Melange (C-85%, V-15%) 6. Anthra Melange (C-65%, V-35%) 7. Spandex (Lycra). 8. PC 9. Mixed melange
Count of yarn Used in this Ind. Carded Yarn: 20’s to 40’s CVC : 20’s to 40’ s PC :24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s Spandex(Lycra) : 20D, 40D, 70D Combed yarn: 24’s to 36’s Gray Melange : 20’s to 40’s Polyester Yarn : 75D, 100D
Classification of Knitting Section 01. Flat knitting section 02. Circular knitting section 03.Fabric inspection section 04. Maintenance & Mechanics
Relationship between knitting parameters 1. Stitch length increase with the decrease of GSM. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
PRODUCTION CALCULATION Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency = . . ( ) 60 8 RPM Feeder × 2.54 × 10 No of No 840 Needle 2.2046 × of SL mm 36 × Yarn count No. of Needle = DG (for S/J) = = DG 2 (for Rib) DG (for Interlock) Generally, Machine R.P.M =
G.S.M. It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION 1. By increasing m/c speed: 2. By increasing the number of feeder: 3. By using machine of higher gauge: 4. By imposing automation in the m/c: 5. By imposing other developments:
END PRODUCTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Single Jersey M/C: 1. S/J Plain 2. Single lacoste 3. Double lacoste 4. Single pique 5. Double pique 6. Mini jacquard 7. Fleece 8. Terry Fleece
DIFFERENT PARTS OF KNITTING MACHINE Creel: Feeder: Tensioning device: Take up roller Guide: Sensor Spreader: VDQ pulley: Cam Sinker
CAM Knit Cam Tuck Cam Miss cam
LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL Inspection m/c. Electronic balance. GSM cutter. Measuring tape. Scissors. Indication sticker.
Knitting Faults Hole Mark Needle Mark Sinker Mark Star Mark Drop Stitches Oil Stain Pin Hole Rust stain Cloth fall-out SLUBS LYCRA DROP Grease Stain
DYEING The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so that it looks mono uniform colored is called dyeing.
Flow Chart of Dyeing…. Grey Fabric Inspection Batch Section Batching Load on Machine Scouring Bleaching Enzyme Leveling Electrolyting Dyeing Softening Unload Machine
LAB DIP Lab Dip Development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer’s requirements (similar shade and so on).Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing planning done. OBJECT OF LAB DIP The main objectives in lab dip are as follows. To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or VERVIDE Color Cabinet . To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved Lab Dip(Grade: A B C)
STOCK SOLUTION: In Chemistry a stock solution is a large volume of a common reagent at a standardize concentration. Why Stock solution is required in laboratory: The dyes which are supplied by different dyes and chemical companies are in solid form. When we need to dye a sample fabric we need to dissolve the dye and for this reason as per the requirement of shade darkness or lightness we required different concentration of dye solution. As a result stock solution is very important in laboratory process.
Batch Preparation: Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order. Objective of Batching: To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. Turn the grey fabric if require.
Possible Dyeing Faults… 1. Uneven Shade 2. Running Shade 3. Crease Mark 4. Oil Spot 5. Softener Spot 6. Dyeing Hole 7. Roll to roll shade variation
Hole Mark Causes: Holes are the result of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook. Badly knot or splicing. Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies: Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. Use proper count of yarn. Correctly set of yarn feeder. Knot should be given properly
Needle Mark Causes: When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies: Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
Sinker Mark Causes: When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes. If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies: Sinker should be changed.
Star Mark Causes: Yarn tension variation during production. Buckling of the needle latch. Low GSM fabric production. Remedies: Maintain same yarn tension during production. Use good conditioned needle.
Pin Hole Causes: Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies: Change the needle.
Rust stain Causes: If any rust on the m/c parts. Remedies: If any rust on the m/c parts then clean it. Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Grease Stain Causes: Improper greasing. Excess greasing. Remedies: Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance.
Cloth fall-out Causes: Cloth fall-out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn. Remedies: Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
SLUBS Causes: Occur during spinning process Improper winding Snagging Extra fly yarn knitted on the fabric Remedies: Use proper count of yarn. Correctly set of yarn feeder. Knot should be given properly.
LYCRA DROP Causes: Lycra yarn tension vary time to time Weak place in lycra yarn. Remedies: Lycra yarn tension should be adjust. Better Quality lycra yarn used.
TECHNICAL TEXTILE The definition of Technical textiles adopted by the authoritative Textile Terms and Definitions, published by the Textile Institute, is “Textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical and performance properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative
Fiber used in Technical Textiles 1. Conventional fibers. 2. High strength and high modulus organic fibers. 3. High chemical- and combustion-resistant organic fibers. 4. High performance inorganic fibers. 5. Ultra-fine and novelty fibers. 6. Civil and agricultural engineering fibers. 7. Automotive and aeronautics fibers. 8. Medical and hygiene applications fibers. 9. Protection and defense fibers.
Types of Technical Textiles Home textiles Medical and hygiene textiles Industrial products and components Agriculture, horticulture and fishing Construction – building and roofing Ecological protection textiles Protective and safety clothing and textiles Geotextiles in civil engineering Sport and leisure Packaging and containment Clothing components Transport textiles
Applications Of Technical Textiles: Soil reinforcement: Drainage (fluid transmission) Filtration Separation Erosion control/absorption: Engineering properties of geo-textiles: Frictional resistance of geo-textiles