Merchendising

1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF Merchandizing. 11 | P a g e

2. GARMENTS MERCHANDISING Definition Merchandizing: 1. “Garments merchandizing is the combination of some works like buyer development, work Order collection, prizing sample development approval of sample, fabrics & accessories Collection production follow up, documentation, delivery in time etc”. 2.“To know garments for selling is called garments merchandizing”. Flow sequence of merchandising section: Talk to Buyer (Buyer Developing) ↓ Receive order, information of Buyer ↓ Consumption of material ↓ Costing of material including cm. ↓ Negotiation with buyer. ↓ Order received (P.O. received) P.O. = Purchase Order ↓ Back to back L/C opening for purchasing Fabrics & Accessories. ↓ Sample approving ↓ 12 | P a g e

3. Approval for mass bulk production. ↓ Related work to production planning. ↓ Start bulk production. ↓ Line inspection ↓ Final inspection by buyer or buyer representative ↓ Shipment to buyer ↓ Sending document to buyer for payment ↓ Payment receives from bank. Work done by Merchandiser: Sourcing Pricing (CM,C&F,CIF,FOB) Order follow up and execution Arranging final inspection Ensuring on time shipment.  Accessories: 1)Sewing thread and sew able item a. Thread b. Button c. Main label d. Size label e. Care label f. Velcro (Hook and loop fastener) 13 | P a g e

4. g. lace 2)Finishing item: a. Price ticket b. Hang tag c. Poly bag d. Back board e. Neck board f. Collar inside g. Butter fly (Single, Double) h. Tag pin i. Tissue paper j. Draw string and stopper Order follow-up and execution: They do it during running the production. As a result if any fault occurring it rectified in the primary stage. Arranging final inspection: After completion the garment making merchandiser arrange final inspection date with quality department. Inspection is also depending on the wishes of buyer. Ensuring on time shipment: Once the inspection is done and the goods found ok for shipment, then the goods handed over to the clearing and forwarding agent for on time shipment. Types of order: FOB (Free on Board) Order. FOA (Free on Air) Order. C & F (Cost & Freight) Order. CIF (Cost Insurance Freight) Order. CIFC (Cost, Freight, Insurance and Commission) Order. CMT (Cost of Making and Trimmings) Order. CM (Cost of Making) Order. TT (Telephone Transfer) Order. Subcontract Order. Exchange Order. CMC (Cutting, Making and Cartoon) Order. 14 | P a g e

5. Cost Analysis: Costing: Costing of garment is a very necessary and important task. In this factory costing is carried out by the merchandising department. Firstly, merchandiser contacts with the buyer and collects order. Then he is provided a sample from sample section according to the buyer‟s specification. The sample also supplies the fabric consumption. Cost of the fabric is determined according to this consumption. Then he makes costing the other materials, accessories, trimmings etc. He adds then all the production cost, Transport cost, Commission (buying house, C&F agent) and profit. Costing of Garments: Fabric Cost + Accessories Cost + Production Cost + Transport Cost + Commission + Profit 15 | P a g e

6. PLANNING & IE (Industrial Engineering) Industrial Engineering: The main function of this department is to re-engineering the garment from the sampling stage so that it would be production friendly for the production as well helps to the increase productivity through machine layout, time and motion study. In the sewn products industries we must continually ensure that we remain competitive and profitable whilst also improve our personal and community‟s of living. Industrial Engineering Department: -To follow up the production process -Work process development -SMV calculation & Line target -Efficiency control -Time study -Capacity study -Workers training -M/c sequence lay out -Thread consumption -Operator Interview Duties and Activities of a Work Study Officer: Style details collect SMV make Layout make Machine arrange Attend P.P meeting First week production plan 16 | P a g e

7. Line feeding Work aid arrange Method study (innovation) & take video & record Time study Line capacity find out Bottle neck operation find out Individually follow up bottle neck operation and try To increase production Capacity & efficiency wise target setting & try to achieving Line balancing Motivation the worker Maximum time stay in production line & try to solve any kinds of production related problem Monitoring the production achievement hourly & daily Loss time record Overall, try to increases the productivity. All work study- techniques are classified into two main groups the specimen bellows by typical: METHOD STUDY WORK MEASUREMENT Layout Time standards Work flow Hourly targets Machinery Production checks Standardize method Line balancing Quality specification Training curves Capital investment appraisal Maintain payment systems Attachment Sewing method specification 17 | P a g e

8. Method Study: May be defined as: The systematic recording and critical examination of existing and alternative methods of work, to facilitate the introduction of more efficient and cost effective methods. The basic procedure: Select: identifies the areas where results can be achieved these are usually where there are: Bottlenecks increased cost persistent overtime working, Excess fatigue safety hazards high labor turnover high absenteeism Record: Record though observation all of the exact details of an operation with regard to: Machinery used attachments used operator method quality specification Handling system work place layout sequence position online Examine: critically examine all of the recorded method details. Question each detail: Can it be eliminated? Can it be combined? Can the sequence be changed? Can it be simplified? Easy motions characteristics The methods analyst should strive to incorporate the following into methods: Minimum: Using finger, wrist, and elbow movements rather than making shoulder and body movements. Simultaneous: Using both hands at same time whenever possible. Symmetrical: Left and right arms moving at the same time in opposite directions. Natural: Free sewing movements are faster and easier then controlled movements. 18 | P a g e

9. Continues: Continuous curve movements are better than straight line movements involving sudden or Sharpe changes in directions. Rhythmic: Smooth automatic movements must be encouraged. Habitual: ` Movements that have become automatic as they do not require additional concentration. Workplace layout: The layout of a workplace impacts directly on the pattern of movements and consequently time taking to perfume and operation When analyzing a method the following steps should be considered: Step 1: Sketch the existing workplace layout. Sketch the shape of the work table noting any modification to the standard, e.g. extensions or cut downs Sketch the position and clearly identify any work aids or attachments e.g. guides, reel feed etc. Sketch in the position of products parts before they are processed; clearly identify the part of parts Sketch where the parts are placed after processing Step 2: analyzed how to products parts are moved within the work place Know: How part is first obtained how the operators holds the part Where the part is move to how the part is presented to the machine How the part is disposed of by the operator where the part is disposed to. Step 3: Describe the method in simple movements; GSD is the best analysis tool for this.The motions are typically: Pick up Position align 19 | P a g e

10. Sew Measure Cut/ trim Place aside Step 4: From the list of movements the key points for attention should be identified Finger/ hand position Number of sewing bursts Quality specification- tolerances, notch alignment, fabric position etc. Special skill requirements Step 5: The critical examination stage: Identify and eliminate excess movements‟ e.g. checking, smoothing and positioning motions that are not fundamental to the method or company policy. Identify and eliminate stretching or body movements. Strive to achieve a method that contains only motions with “Easy Characteristics” Work measurement: There are number of different techniques that can be used to carry out work measurement within the sewn products industries, the traditional alternative to general sewing data is time study. The skills required are: 1.The ability, skill and experienced to read and operate a stopwatch. 2.The ability, skills and experienced to assess the rate of working (performance) of individuals workers. Time study: This is the process by which we calculate the SMV (standard minute value) in “in process inspection”. There are two types of SMV such as estimate SMV and garments SMV. It is done by following formula, Take a stop watch and take times for 10 times for a operation and finally calculate the SMV of this operation and production per hour. 20 | P a g e

11. Steps in taking time study: A glossary of terms is contained in the manual so that the student may refer to it for specific definitions. 1.Prior to commencement it is essential that there are commutations to all interested parties. Manager‟s supervisor‟sworkers representative‟s operators 2.Ensure the prevailing conditions are suitable for a reliable time study. The operators are properly trained and skilled – not trainees The materials being used are of the correct quality. There is sufficient work available for a time study to be completed without interruption. The machine, equipment and work aids are correct and in working order Ensure that health and safety rules are observed The work place and working method meets the official special specifications. 3.It is vital that all relevant details are recorded before the start of study e.g. Study number date name of work study engg. Date of study product type Style reference size color fabric type trim details quality specifications Department line/team/section machine type machine speed stitch density . 4.Before commencing the study break the operations down into elements so that observed Assessment of rate of working and time taken can be recorded during the study. After completing the study: 1.Record the watch elapsed time and calculate the observe study time. Then calculate unaccounted time and watch error. The tolerance allowed - ± 2% 2.Extend the observe elemental /operation rating and times into basic time 3.Calculate the average basic time for each element /operation cycle. 4.Apply the appropriate relaxation, Delay and contingency allowances to the basic times in order to calculate the standard time either for each element or the operation as a hole. 5.Where an appropriate some all of the elemental standard times in order to compile a standard time for the operation. 6.As appropriate convert the standard time to the standard time allowed time by applying the appropriate performance factor to the standard time using the formula below. SAM= SMV × 21 | P a g e

12. Glossary of Terms: Allowances: It is necessary to add allowances to the basic time for a task to compensate the operator for specific conditions and circumstances encountered during a normal working period. For example fatigue, personal needs, machine delays and emergencies. These allowances are listed in the glossary in alphabetical order and a specimen reference table is also set out under a separate handing Basic Time: The time for carrying out an element or cycle of work at standard performance rating depending Upon whichever scale is used The formula is Basic time Break point: The point at which one element of work cycle ends and the next‟s one begins. This point should be easy to see and if possible to hear. Cycle time: The time taken to complete all elements of work that constitute the complete operation of work cycle. Observed time: The time taking to perform an element or complete cycle of work obtained and recorded by means of direct observation. Performance Rating: The assessment of an operator‟s rate of working on one of the internationally recognized scales of performance rating. Where the observer understands and is fully conversant with the requirements of all the levels of performance Production study: In the sewn products industries it has become normal practices to record each operation cycle performance rating and observed time. The time that the operator spends dealing with 22 | P a g e

13. problems ideally each problems being classified and the number of occurrences recorded, along with the appropriate time is also recorded during the production study. This facilitates allowance checks. Standard minute value (SMV): The total time allowed for a job to be completed at a standard performance. It includes the work content, relaxation, delay and contingence allowances as appropriate. It may also include additional policy allowances Efficiency: How well an individual or group performs against a predetermined standard (100%) It is extremely difficult, arguably nearly impossible to achieve 100% efficiency using accurate measured data, unless the same or vary similar styles run continuously year on year. The formula is: Line Balance: Used to describe the mathematically calculation of outputs for a factory, line or team based upon pre-determine levels of, production output, efficiency, attendance, operation sequences and standard minuets values. Sample Making: Sample section is the important section in Garments Industry. Here all types of sample are developed. Sometime developing section help to develop a new type of sample. Here the operator and the managerial level are very much efficient than the other section. Here the operator is selected according to their work efficiency and also the experience. Skilled operator is allowed to work in this section. Because sample must has to be unique and the best quality, out looking also be very good. Without a skilled setup this is impossible. It is seen that an operator can make a whole garment. In the floor level one operator always to his/her job with one component all the time, for this to make that portion that operator need less time. But in sample section time required to make a garment, one operator need much more time than the floor level operator. This section must involve with the merchandising section. According to the buyer requirement on the basis of art work and the measurement list given by the buyer an operator can make a whole garment. If an operator cannot understand the technical term in the technical sheet, he/ she must consult with the manager/asst. Manager/ co-coordinator. Here the sewing machine sequence is not maintained. As per 23 | P a g e

14. requirement operator can change the machine if that is available to use. There is a table for checking the ready sample before it sends to the merchandising section Flow sequence of sample section is given below: Received developed sheet from buyer ↓ Develop the sample ↓ Send the sample to buyer for approval ↓ Approval of sample/comments about the sample ↓ Send pre-production sample to buyer ↓ Start bulk production Types of sample produce by Sample Section according to buyer demand: There is various type of sample those are given below: 1. Original sample: This type of sample made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer sketch and measurement. 2. Proto/ Develop sample: Here measurement is very important but need not to match the fabric and accessories. 3. Seal sample: Seal sample is approved by the buyer with tag. 24 | P a g e

15. 4. Size set: All sizes of sample are produced such as S, M, L, XL, etc, and send to buyer. 6.Pre-production sample: First garment of bulk production is called pre- production sample. 7.Add sample: For advertising of the product buyer want this type of sample. 8.Sales man sample: To supply the new product in different showroom, buyer wants this sample. 9.Photo sample: Only photograph of the product is send to buyer. 10. Shipment/ Reference sample: After completion the shipment of the garment some garment are kept in sample room which are known as shipment or reference sample. 11. Pre-line sample: This type of sample is collected from anyone line during production. 12. Lab-test sample: Sample is tested by third party or buyer‟s nominated lab. Pattern making: After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they make sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern by own when buyer don not give any pattern. Marker making: Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric. The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize wastages. Objects of marker making: -To reduce cost; 25 | P a g e

16. -To improve the quality of the garments; -To reduce the cutting time; -To facilitate large scale production. Possibilities of marker making: Generally there are two methods by which marker can be Manual Method: The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and requires more time. Manually two types of marker are made – 1.Full size marker: Full size marker is made for production purpose. 2.Miniature type marker: Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule and learn or study i.e. for planning and learning purposes. Computerized Method: Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized method. In this system, a man performs it by himself using computer software (CAD and CAM) and it requires considerably less time than manual system. Two types of marker are generally made using computerized system – 1.Full size marker: Using „Digitalizing Board‟ the pattern pieces are input into the computer. Computer uses software and a marker paper is printed out that will be used in the production. 2.Miniature type marker: Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is printed from the computer. Computerized system is also two types – Interactive: Manually it is done by using computer. Generally a computer operator can do it and requires less time. Automatic: The pattern pieces are replaced on to the marker by programming. A high technician can do so and it requires more time. 26 | P a g e

17. Factors considered during marker making: The important factors considered during marker making are – Nature of the Fabric: The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the fabric should be considered during marker making. Lay planning of patterns: Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should be taken under consideration. Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line: It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a fabric is very much important for a garment and the grain line indicates the warp or wale direction. Requirements of cutting: Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker making the cutting allowances are considered where necessary and where is not. It may produce more wastage and may reduce the dimensions of patterns. Production planning: Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may un at a time in an industry. So during marker making it should be considered. Size of marker: During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric, etc. Marker Efficiency: The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area of the maker paper is technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is expressed in percentage. If it is denoted by the symbol ή then – Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area of the Marker paper) * 100 The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency– Manufacturers of the marker; Size of pattern pieces; Length of the marker; Pattern Engineering; 27 | P a g e

18. Nature of the fabric; Method of marker making; Marker width; Kinds or design of garments. Constraint of Marker making: The hinders of marker making are – Grain Line: Grain line is a more effective constraint of marker making. Because of grain line sometimes it is tough to place the pattern pieces on to the marker, even though it is possible the wastage become higher. Design of Garments: Sometimes the designs and repeats of the fabric are regarded as constraints of marker making. The patterns may miss the designs or may overlap the designs. Nature of the Fabric: Nature of the fabric may sometimes be regarded as a constraint of marker making. Nature of the fabric includes symmetric and asymmetric. Cutting Accuracy: Accurate cutting may be one of the constraints of marker making. Production Planning: Production planning includes rate of production, types of garments, sizes of garments, etc. Fabric wastages inside and outside of the marker: Inside Wastage: That wastage that is obtained from the inter-spaces of the pattern pieces in the marker paper. It depends on the efficiency of the marker maker and on the size of the patterns as well. Outside Wastage: Besides the inside wastages, some fabric is wasted outside of the marker – Ends of the ply losses: Generally each ply of the fabric losses up to 4 cm at both sides (Two sides * 2 cm). End of fabric losses: The length of fabric may sometimes not cover the ply, it may finish its end at less than 5 yards (cut piece). This piece of fabric goes through wastage and is called end of fabric losses. 28 | P a g e

19. Selvedge losses: Generally selvedge losses are 2% to 3%. Purchase losses: Sometimes losses may arise from purchase. Wrong consumption calculation may cause huge wastage. CUTTING SECTION Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garment industry. For a little mistake full order may be cancelled. With the false measurement a big portion of garment may employed. With very care this section is handled. In this factory there consists 9 cutting table. From the CAD section marker comes out. For stripe & variegated rib fabric there is no marker use because if use the marker for stripe fabric, frequently don‟t match the stripe of one side to the other. This is a buyer requirement to match the stripe. Manually the stripe fabric is spreader out on the cutting table. Only marker is used for the solid dyed fabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards & thickness of lay is 4 inch. Sequence of spreading and cutting Received Finished Fabric Inspection Received Pattern from Sample section Marker making with the aid of CAD Spreading (Manual or Spreading m/c) Cutting 29 | P a g e

20. Sorting and Numbering Inspection Pieces sent to Sewing Straight Knife Cutting Machine: In this factory are all the fabric is cut down with the Straight Knife Cutting Machine by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp and change this on the basis of fabric quantity & composition. Here, in the below give a short description on this machine: STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE Machine Parts: 30 | P a g e

21. Base plate Terminal Block Plug Crosshead Assay Clamp Washer Knife Clamp Stud Presser Foot Blade Sharpener Pulley Main Pulley S/Pulley – Right Pulley Spring On/Off Switch Lift Handle Feed Bar Advantages: As it is comparatively cheaper, easy moveable and maximum lay height could be cut, used extensively in garment industries. Could cut fabric at more curved line than the round knife.  Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay. Quick fabric cutting. Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay. Grinding could be done during cutting. Could be cut at any angle. Disadvantages: Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor. Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection. Possibility of accident is higher. Requirements of Fabric Cutting: The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting: 1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy. 31 | P a g e

22. 2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective. 3.Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabric contains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 2500C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken: 1. Reduce the height of the lay; 2. Reduce the cutting speed; 3. Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval; 4. Lubricate the knife during cutting. 4.Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting. Fabric Inspection: 1. GSM Check 2. Dia Check 3. Fault Check 4. Point Calculation 5. Four point system calculation 6. Prepared fabric inspection report 7. Prepared weight sheet 8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet) Fabric spreading: 32 | P a g e

23. Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size is same, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabric according to marker size. Setting marker on the fabric lay: Spread down the marker paper over the fabric lay with gum tape. Fabric cutting: Fabric lay is cutting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part. Numbering: In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number. Prepared the bundling card: Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain Program No Cutting No Size No Pies Roll No Bundling: In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number. Quality Inspection & Front part Back part is fold together: Here all part are checked according to following fault 17. Oil spot 18. Dirty spot 19. Crease mark 20. Needle mark 21. Foreign yarn 22. Slub 23. Contamination 24. Hole Then same number of sticker are matched fold & bundled After Cutting store: All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section 33 | P a g e

24. Limitations of Cutting Section: 1.Input problem. 2.Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table. 3.There is may be no group for any table 4.Quality inspection & front part & back part are fold together. The faulty body parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch. 5.Cutting quality man may not be trained 6.Check, Variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject percentage may be increased. 7.Fabric spreading 8.There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting piece of the lay 9.There is no individual marker man for any unit. 10.Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker. 11.Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric. 12.Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric 13.In this stage four men bundled the parts according to serial number SEWING SECTION Sewing section is the crowds section Payra Fashion Wear Ltd. All day long their machines are ruined according to the plan. From the cutting section the cutting parts of different garment brought in sewing section to sew. First of all machine is set out according to requirement. In this chapter I will try to give some flow chart of the different garment item sewing along with the machine lay out plan. The process of joining fabric or seam is called Sewing. Elements of Sewing:  Sewing Thread,  Needle &  Sewing Machine 34 | P a g e

25. Flow-Sequence of Sewing Section: Cutting fabric load in sewing section Line plan according to style or design Marking Matching according to bundle no. Sewing according to garments design or style Quality inspection during sewing Quality inspection after sewing Excess thread cutting Remove dirt & dust from garments surface Quality audit Send to next process. MACHINE DESCRIPTION: Production machine description 35 | P a g e

26. PATTERN MAKING MACHINE: 1.High speed and accuracy supported by servomotor, straight lead rail and integrated circuit block. 2.Easy to operate. 3.Compatible with any CAD software. 4.Stable performance with long using lifetime. PATTERN Cutting Machine: Brand name: WINDA Product Description Pattern Cutting Plotter Winda series cutting machine is consisted by a fixed table, automatic feed-up device and operating software. It is widely used in garment, shoes and box-bag industry, etc. The high quality machine guarantees extreme precision and rapidity. Features: •Dual head for drawing and cutting, both head working separately; •Fully automatic feeding device; •Cutting material thickness up to 2mm; •High precision cutting to improve the quality of your product; •Save cost, save time, save labor force (3~5workers), save energy, save material. 36 | P a g e

27. Sewing Machine Description: Which are used in sewing section: S.L No 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 Machine Type Plain Machine 1 Needle Lock Stitch 2 Needle Chain Stitch 2 Needle Over lock 4 Thread Over lock 5 Thread Flat Lock Kansai Special P.M.D. Feed of the Arm Snap Button Button Stitch Button Hole Eyelet Hole Bar Tech Machine (Computer) Fusing Machine Re Conning Machine Total No. of Machine 292 30 07 14 20 03 02 03 08 04 01 01 08 02 01 396 # Description of the Machines Are Bellow: 1.PLAIN MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI Properties - • One needle FIG: plain m/c • Two tensioners • Three guide • One hook • Two thread • One bobbin case 37 | P a g e

28. • One magnate guide Applications - • Bottom hemming • Belt top seem stitch • Belt joint stitch • Loop tack stitch • Pocket joint stitch • Zipper joint • Flap make • Flap top stitch 2.FLAT LOCK MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI FIG: flat lock m/c Properties: • 4tensioner • 3 thread • Contain a holder • 2needle Applications - • Zigzag stitch 38 | P a g e

29. • Knit hemming • Loop making 3.OVER LOCK SEWING MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI Overlook stitching was invented by the MERROW Machine Company in 1881.An overlook stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. Usually an overlook sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines are called „SERGERS‟), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over look machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. Specifications - • This over lock sewing machine is applicable to cover edging operation of thin, moderate and thick fabrics. Due to its automatic lubricating device. • The machine operates perfectly and smoothly at low sewing tension, and perfect stable stitches even at high speed seaming. • Suitable for thin, moderate and thick fabrics. Fig: 4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE Properties - 39 | P a g e

30. • 5 thread/4 thread/3 thread • 4tensioner • 2 knifes (up / down) • 2 needle for 5 thread • 1 needle for 3 thread • 3 lopper for 5 thread • 2 lopper for 3 thread Applications - *side seam *armhole *sleeve 4.BARTACK MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI The high speed bar tacking machine is designed for making reinforced stitching or various kinds of clothing such as suits/jeans and working clothes and also for eye let button hole tacking. Tack length can be easily adjusted. Reduction gear and some mechanism simplified to get improved durability and reliability. FIG: Bartack m/c Applications - *To created Barack stitches in garments. 40 | P a g e

31. Bar tacking is a specialized sewing stitch designed to provide immense tensile strength to the garment or equipment it is used on. Bar tacking is commonly used on backpacks, tents, tactical gear, and other heavy wear sewn items where normally sewn stitches might give way at a crucial moment. In general, bar tacking is a sign of good quality, although the rest of the product should always be looked over carefully as well. When a sewing pattern calls for bar tacking, it indicates that the designer feels that section of the pattern is a critical area that needs extra reinforcement and following areas it can used. • Loop attach • Fly make • Pocket side • Front side • Back pocketing • Side seam • In seem 5.KANSAI MACHINE: Brand name: Kansai special Kansai sewing machine is suitable for zigzag sewing, embroidery, abutted seam on light and medium material. It has excellent performance ratio and is conveniently arranged. It has bobbin winder integrated in the arm cover with in operator‟s view. It is suitable to sew underwear, corset, waist sections of ladies body suits, and swim suits. FIG: Kansai m/c 41 | P a g e

32. Properties: • 2needle • 4 thread • 8tensioner • 21 lopper point (used two lopper depends on distance of stitches) Applications - • Back yoke stitch • Waist band stitch Front placket 6.CHAIN STITCH MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft – examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period (5th-3rd century BC). Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic “drawing” in thread. FIG: Chain stitch m/c Properties - • 2needle 42 | P a g e

33. • 2looper • 4thread & 4tensioner (back 2/front 2) Applications - • Back rise stitch • Back yoke stitch • Top seen ¼ stitch 7.Feed off the Arm m/c: Buyer name: JUKI FIG: Feed off the arm m/c Properties - • 2needle • 2Lopper • 4 thread (Lopper 2/needle 2) • Contains T & Magnate guide • 3tensioner Applications - • Back rise stitch • Inseam stitch • Back yoke top seen 8.BUTTON HOLING MACHINE: 43 | P a g e

34. Brand name: JUKI Buttonholes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through, securing one piece of the fabric to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a Mandarin button, use a loop of cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole. Fig: EYE LET BUTTON HOLE MACHINE Properties - • 2 thread • 1 needle • 2tensioner • Contains bobbin case, hook & knife Applications - • To make button hole in garment 9.BUTTON ATTACH MACHINE: Buyer name: JIKET • This is a single needle chain stitch button sewing machine which inherits the excellent sewing capability and hassle; free operation. • The four hole button sewing mode can be easily switched over to two hole button sewing. • Number of stitches and stitching patterns are easily adaptable. • The machine ensures consistence sewing performances even at maximum speed 1500 rpm. 44 | P a g e

35. • The thread trimming mechanism helps to produce beautifully finished seam with lesser thread consumption. • Suitable for all kinds of shirts, suits and work uniform. Fig: BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE WITH AUTO TRIM Applications - • To attach button in garment. 10.TWO NEEDLE MACHINE: Brand name: JUKI FIG: Two needle m/c Application: These types of machines are used for decorative purpose. It is specially used for sew woven fabric. 45 | P a g e

36. 11.ZIGZAG STITCH MACHINE: FIG: Zigzag stitch m/c BRAND NAME: JUKI STITCH SYSTEM: STANDERD ZIGZAG STITCH PATTERN: MAX. SEWING SPEED: 5000 stitch/ min. 12.POCKET WELTING /ATTACH MACHINE : Brand name: FIG: Pocket welting m/c It is specially used for sew pockets in coats , blazer and trouser/pant. Sewing speed: 1000- 3000 stitch/min Kind of welts: parallel double welt/ single double welt 46 | P a g e

37. Sewing length: min 18 – max 220 mm Machine head: 2 needle lock stitch machine 13.BLIND STITCH MACHINE: Brand name: ZUSUN Fig: BLIND STITCH MACHINE FEATURES – Blind stitch means stitch is not visible on fabric. It is formed based on chain stitch ( 1 thread) and lock stitch (2 thread). The hem and facing are folded back and caught by the needle. In this machine curved needle is used which penetrate straightly in the fabric. Sewing speed of blind stitch is up to 3000 stitch/min. This machine is used for special purpose. It is used for sew bottom hem. 14.METAL DETECTOR MACHINE: Brand name: BESTA CBS -400- M.A.S To detect metal in the accessories. Training Exercise Sheet: In training section sketch of different parts of a garment on a paper for practicing sewing. Initially this is given to the worker who is newly joined in training section. This exercise sheet helps the worker- 47 | P a g e

38. To straight up the sewing line To adjust the Stitch Per Inch (SPI) To change the direction of needle as per movement. To balance the speed of the machine To learn the Bar tack mechanism Work AidsinSewing: Experiment has proved that operators spend about 20% of their total time for sewing and the rest 80% time is spent for fabric handling i.e. fabric folding, positioning, cut threads, bundle transferring, etc. Scientists invented some components to reduce the fabric handling time, which are called work aids in sewing. Functions of these components used as work aids: To help the operators to work easily, To improve the quality and productivity, To improve the production. Seam: In sewing, a seam is the line where two or more layers of fabric are held together by stitching. In other words, the line of joining of fabrics is called seam. The arrangement of fabric ends at the seam line called seam type. Properties of Seam: Properties of seam are assessed on the following two aspects Appearance: After sewing, the sewn area is observed for any defects, if present which affects outlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam pucker, or unsightly view. Performance: Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria: a.Seam Strength: Strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabric strength. b.Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than the fabric elasticity. 48 | P a g e

39. c.Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric. Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due to frictional forces and tension. d.Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simple reason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seam fails due to normal reason the situation might be unexpected. e.Comfort ability: Apparels, during normal use should not create any irritation or problem to body and health as well. f.Special property: If clothing has any special property like water proof, fire proof, chemical resistant, etc then in manufacturing this apparel the seam should be produced in such away that the seams have also such special property. Sewing Needle: A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were made of bone or wood; modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel- or gold plated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are made of platinum. Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needle will be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. The action of needle has a direct effect on seam strength and garments performances. Functions of a needle: The functions of a sewing needle are: To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through without causing any damage to material. To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case. To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism on machines other than lock stitch. Parts of a Sewing Machine: The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below: Butt: 49 | P a g e

40. It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which is needed to attach the needle with needle bar or clamp. Shank: Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates within the needle bar. It may be cylindrical or flat at one side. Shoulder: Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade. Blade: It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part is responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric. Long groove: There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needle thread remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up and down. Short groove: Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook or looper. It assists in forming the loop of needle thread. 50 | P a g e

41. Eye: Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing thread passes. It prevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing. Scarf: Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just above the eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to the needle. Point: It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and the appearance that has to be produced. Tip: Tip is the keen extreme end of the point. Sewing Defects or Problems: Feed system, needle and thread together determine the seam appearance and performance. The problems which arise when materials are sewn in their seriousness. Some are major problems which cannot be overlooked and for these problems garments will be rejected by the inspector, whereas some are minor problems which are negligible in low quality garments. The sewing defects are: Seam pucker, Broken or open stitch, Staggered (spread out) stitch, Slipped or skipped stitch, Variable stitch density, Needle damage, Thread breakages, Seam grin, Pleated seam, Wrong stitch density, Uneven stitch density, 51 | P a g e

42. Improperly formed stitches. The first two of them are major problems and the rest are less serious problems. Fig: Seam pucker Seam pucker: Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam when compared to a smooth fabric. The main causes of seam pucker are mentioned below: Mainly seam pucker occurs due to unequal tension feed-dog and pressure foot on two plies of fabric. It also occurs due to unequal thread tension and unsuitable thread. It may occur due to feeding problem and needle size. It also occurs due to shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread. It may occur due to instability of fabric dimensions or fabric construction. 52 | P a g e

43. Fig: Broken or Open stitch Broken or Open stitch: It is also a major problem of sewing. The reasons of occurring broken or open stitch are mentioned below: a. Mainly due to tension variation between needle and bobbin thread in high speed sewing machine, breakage of threads occurs. This is responsible for broken stitch. b. Needle thread breakage occurs due to following reasons: If tension on needle thread is more;  If snarling of yarn occurs in tension disc.  If fraying of needle thread occurs.  Excess needle heating or hook heating. Low quality sewing thread.  Sharp edge of throat plate, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove, etc. c. The causes of bobbin thread breakage are mentioned below: Faulty winding of thread on bobbin.  Excessive tension on bobbin thread.  Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eye and spring.  Faulty fitting of bobbin cage. Slipped or skipped stitch: If the continuation of stitches in a seam line hampers by slipping some stitches, then such stitch is called slipped or skipped stitch. If the looper in the machine can not pick the loop of needle thread from the underside, slipped stitch arises. The causes of slipped stitch are: If the timing between needle and looper or bobbin is not proper, needle thread loop is not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required. This will cause slipped stitch. If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs. Unequal tension between the two sets of thread. 53 | P a g e

44. Deflection or vibration of needle.  Due to flagging during sewing. Staggered stitch: If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line individually then they are called staggered stitches. The causes of staggered stitches are as follows: Due to needle deflection and vibration. Due to loose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar. Due to wrong selection of needle point. Due to combination problem of needle and thread size. Due to faulty speed and motion of feed-dog. Due to improper controlling of fabric by the feed mechanism. Variable stitch density: It is the variation of number of stitches per unit length of seam. The causes of variable stitch density are mentioned below: If fabric cannot move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressure foot. Due to faulty feed mechanism. The remedies of this problem are as follows: Adjustment of pressure foot pressure. By using drop feed mechanism it can be minimized. Sewing Quality Checking Points: Skip/Drop/Broken Stitch, Raw Edge, Size Mistake, Uneven Hem, Uneven Cuff, Uneven Neck, Uneven Shoulder, Uneven Placket, Uneven Pocket, Twisting, Without Care Label, Open Tack, 54 | P a g e

45. Sleeve Up-Down, Stripe Up-Down, Open Seam, Four Point Up-Down, Spot, Shadin . FINISHING SECTION From the sewing section all garments are sending to the finishing section to check them before packing. It is known to all that if the finishing part is done very carefully then the little fault may be unseen at a glance. Shipment may not be cancelled if packing is done correctly. It is ensured that all the accessories are attached with garment according to the buyer requirement which are already approved. Iron is done carefully and gives attention the fold mark where it is exactly placed. In Payra Fashion Wear Ltd. steam iron may be the proper solution. Steam iron is used in every section where it is necessary. If there find out any fault within the garment then it is identify weather it is major or minor. Attached the arrow sticker to help to find out problem. If major problem is seen then it is again send to the sewing section to recover that problem. In the time of attaching the accessories it is very carefully done to attach them in exact position and direction. Otherwise that will be considered as a fault. When poly packing is done then it is very carefully handled that there is identify the assortment requirement. The carton size and the format are also the vital fact in the finishing section. Finishing Lay Out: Flow chart of finishing section: Garments wash Loop cutting Thread trimming Alter checking Stitch others Button attach 55 | P a g e

46. Ironing (In side) Inspection (inside & outside) Batch label attach Final ironing Joker tag attach Needle detector check Size tag attach Waist belt attach Hanger attach Poly packing Cartooning Shipment Trims: Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for styling; otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers. Following is a part of list that covers some names of the items: Zipper/Fastener: Teeth : Nylon, Vislon, Metal Color : Tape color, Teeth color Size : #3, #5, #8, etc. Length : As per requirement 18 cm, 72 cm End : Close End (C/E), Open End (O/E) Slider : One way, Reversible. Sewing Thread: Shade, color fastness, etc. Tensile strength, Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain, Abrasion Resistance, etc. 56 | P a g e

47. 30s, 60s, 20/2, 40/9 Ne (as per buyer requirements) etc. Labels: Main label Size label Care label Content Price, etc. Button: Horn and Metal buttons are very common in use. ELASTIC: Cotton Polyester, etc. Eyelet: Antique Matching, etc. Velcro: Hook and Pile String/Cord: Cotton Polyester, etc. Tags:  Price tags Hang tags, etc. Polybag: Strength, Chemical mixture, Thickness (micron/mm; 1mm = 1000 micron). Blister Bag: 0.05 mm in thickness; Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag. Carton: 3 ply 5 ply 7 ply Size (L, W, and H). Hook and Pile. 57 | P a g e

48. CARE INSTRUCTIONS Symbol Washing This symbol solely refers to machine washing. Previously temperature for washing has been indicated by a number inside the tub but now there will be a series of dots that do the same job. the correct White cotton and linen with no special finishes Very hot 95o to boil wash with maximum agitation, normal rinse and spin. White cottons and linens with delicate weaves prone to distortion. Same as above but with 1/2 load capacity and short spin. Cotton, linen and rayon item which are both colour fast and have no special surface finishes. Hot 60o with maximum agitation normal rinse and spin. 58 | P a g e

49. White nylon or white polyester/cotton mixes. Hot wash with cold rinse and short spin or drip dry. Cotton linen and rayon where colours are fast at 40o but not at 60o. Warm 40o wash with normal agitation, rinse and spin. Wool including blankets and wool mixes with cotton and rayon. 40o wash with reduced action for 1/2 load capacity and short spin. Silk and printed acetate fabrics with colours not fast at 40o. Cool 30o wash with gentle machine action for 1/2 load with a short spin. Wool, silk, acetate and acrylic materials sensitive to mechanical action. DO NOT MACHINE WASH hand wash only do not wring or spin. Dry Cleaning Instructions: This is the dry cleaning symbol, but the symbol itself doesn't tell the full story. There should be an additional letter inside the circle, indicating what type of dry cleaning a garment can be put through. In addition, the bar underneath the symbol gives additional information. Articles cleanable in all normally available dry cleaning solvents. Wool, cotton, rayon, linen, polyester and nylon. Fabrics which are stable in Perchloroethylene, and hydrocarbons, without restriction. All the above, where restrictions on agitation are not indicated. 59 | P a g e

50. Acrylics, polyesters and silks where weaves, surfaces or fibre mixes make garments or fabrics sensitive to treatment. Garments cleanable in the above range but with restrictions on heat, water addition and agitation. Garments where surfaces, additions or materials are sensitive to cleaning solvents or heat. Articles cleanable in hydrocarbons (white spirit) and solvent 113 using normal dry cleaning techniques. Any fabric with this symbol is very sensitive to heat and movement. It should be cleaned in a bag and not pre or post treated. Fabrics sensitive in normal cleaning solvents but with further restrictions on water addition, agitation and heat. Polyolefins. Items with special finishes or additions. DO NOT DRY CLEAN Ironing Instructions: The ironing symbol lets you know that you can iron a garment or fabric. However the dots let you know what temperature you can iron at. Cotton, linen viscose and derivatives of viscose. Hot iron to 210o max Warm iron 150o max Wool, Polyester mixtures. Acrylic, nylon, acetates and polyester. Cool iron 110o max DO NOT IRON Plasticised materials & 60 | P a g e