Textile Chemical Dictionary

1. TEXTILE CHEMICAL DICTIONAREY

2. PREPARED BY ©right Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIR ID: 2010000400008 Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013) Department: Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.com Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering

3. Definition : A large class of dyes that are applied from acidic solutions to polyamide fibres These synthetic dyes are used for wool, silk and nylon. They are typically applied in a bath that may range fromstrongly acid to neutral, and usually at temperatures approaching boiling. Bonding between the dye and fibre can be complex. Some form ionic bonds between basic groups of the fibre and acid groups of the dye, but other bond typesoccur. There are a great many acid dyes, in a number of major sub-groups, with a wide variety of properties.Included are “washfast acid dyes”, “milling dyes”, “supermilling dyes”, “leveling acid dyes”, “1:1 premetallizeddyes”, “2:1 premetallized dyes” and others (the premetallized dyes are sometimes regarded as being in a class oftheir own, apart from acid dyes). The distinction between some of the groups is often vague. Acid dyes range frompoor to excellent colorfastness, and from dull tones to brilliant shades. The choice of sub-group is often acompromise among the characteristics of colorfastness, leveling properties and shade availability. Acid dyes maynot perform well in mixtures, even with dyes from the same general class, so care is required in selection.

4. Acrylic - With reference to textiles, a synthetic polymer fibre made from acrylonitrile compounds  Acrylic is probably the most popular synthetic fibre for yarns for hand knitting.  It is also used for fleece clothing.  Modacrylic is acrylic that contains other monomers to alter some properties, such as flame retardancy.  Acrylic is normally dyed with basic dyes.  The process requires care get level results and to avoid damage to the fibre.

5. Affinity - Attraction between two items; in dyeing affinity essentially means the preferential attraction of the dye for the fibre rather than for the solution of the dyebath 1. A dye with high affinity readily leaves the dye solution of dispersion to attach to the to the fibre being dyed. 2. This does not necessarily imply that the attachment of the dye to the fibre is strong. Technically, affinity is expressed in terms of energy. 3. It is determined under standardized conditions, so it is incorrect to say that affinity is altered by auxiliary chemicals or the like. See substantivity.

6. Alginate (or algin) - An extract of seaweed used as a thickener “Sodium alginate” is used in textile printing pastes, and sometimes to thicken dye solutions for direct application.  It is a preferred thickener for reactive dyes because it does not react with, and therefore use up, the dye. It comes in a number of variations that have somewhat different properties. “Low viscosity” types are appropriate for reducing migration of wet dye solutions for fine line work, while “high viscosity” are more suitable for making printing pastes.  It can form gels at low pH or very high pH, so it is not suitable for some print paste formulations.

7. AMMONIA - a gas, NH ; often used to refer to a solution of ammonia in water, called aqua ammonia or ammonium Hydroxide (NH4OH3)  Ammonium hydroxide is sometimes used for pH control, mostly where the desired pH is only moderately basic.  It is used in some stripping processes for acid dyes and in rinses for reactive dyes on wool. Caution : Ammonia vapors are very irritating, and solutions should be handled carefully. !!!

8. Alum - A term for a variety of chemicals, with a lot of potential for confusion 1. There are several compounds that are called alum. 2. One is aluminum potassium sulfate - pickling alum. 3. Others include aluminum sulfate (the alum most used in textile arts, and used in municipal water filtration plants), aluminum ammonium sulfate (ammonia alum), chromium potassium sulfate (chrome alum), and more. 4. Some alums are used as mordants in dyeing, primarily with natural (plant extract) dyes. 5. Aluminum sulfate is often used in marbling.

9. Aniline – C6 H 7N; also called aniline oil, Benzeneamine, Aminobenzene Aniline used to be a very commonly used chemical in the synthesis of dyes. Sometimes the term ‘aniline dye’ is used as something of a catch-all term for synthetic dyes, though very few dyes still in production are actually aniline derivatives. Because of toxicity, aniline has been replaced with other compounds for most dye synthesis.

10. Anhydrous - Without water  Many “dry” chemicals may contain some water as part of the crystal structure.  Although this can often be compensated for in making up formulas, it is often more convenient to use chemicals that contain no water, that is, that are anhydrous.  Many dry chemicals are hygroscopic.

11. Anion - A negatively charge ion  Many chemicals used in textile processing are described as anionic.  This means that when the chemical ionizes in solution, the ion that is “functional” has a negative electrical charge.  Most dyes are anionic.  Surfactants, including some used as fabric softeners, may be anionic (others are cationic or non-ionic).

12. Antichlor - A chemical used to neutralize chlorine bleach It can be very difficult to completely rinse chlorine bleach out of fabric. The residual bleach can interfere with subsequent dyeing, or can eventually damage the fibre. A rinse in a solution of antichlor, most commonly sodium bisulfite, will quickly neutralize the bleach. Hydrogen peroxide also functions to neutralize chlorine bleach. A thorough rinse is required after using antichlor. All of the common antichlor compounds essentially convert free chlorine bleaching agents to hydrochloric acid. If enough acid is produced, it can cause liberation of free chlorine gas, which can be hazardous and is certainly very irritating. Sodium carbonate added to the antichlor rinse will neutralized the acid. ACID RINSES ,SUCH AS VINEGAR IN WATER,SHOULD NOT BE USED TO STOP CHLORINE BLEACHING .For neutralization of chlorine in water used to make up dye baths, sodium thiosulfate is the preferred antichlor agent.

13. Anti-Migrant - an additive used in dye or pigment mixtures to prevent undesired movement or spreading of the wet 1. Dye on fabric Anti-migrants are used in thickened dye solutions or dye pastes used for printing fabric so that the printed pattern will retain sharply defined edges. 2. Sodium alginate is often used for this purpose for art processes. 3. Antimigrants are also used in commercial pad-batch dyeing to prevent uneven shading across the width of the fabric.

14. AZO - Referring to a chemical compound which contains two nitrogen atoms with a double bond between them (-N=N-) • “Azo” is used for a class of dyes based on (this) chemical structure. • Azo dyes may be found among direct, acid, basic, reactive and disperse dye classes. Dyes with one pair of nitrogen atoms azo bonded are often called monoazo. Those with two or three azo bonded pairs are called disazo (not diazo) and trisazo, respectively.  Do not confuse azo with azoic !!!!

15. AZOIC DYE - a term generally applied to a class of dyes based on application method; sometimes called naphthol dyes Azoic dyes are actually chemically synthesized inside the fibre, and are not truly dyes, but insoluble pigments. PROCESS : The soluble “naphthol” component is applied to the fibre, then a solution of “diazo salt” is used to develop the color. “Azoic” should be used only for this type of dye, not for azo dyes in general. These dyes are used commercially, especially for reds, but are not readily available to artists. CAUTIONS : The components used can be very toxic before they react to form the pigment !!!!

16. Barré - a stripe-like or bar-like pattern in dyed fabric The dye uptake of some synthetic fibres, notably nylon, can be influenced by minor variations in conditions when the fibres are made. If yarns with these variations are made into fabric, then dyed, the result may be a bar-like pattern of darker and lighter shades or slight hue differences. Sometimes nylon is dyed with disperse dyes rather than acid dyes because the former are better at covering barré.

17. BASE - A chemical compound that will produce pH of greater than 7 in water solutions; alkali is often used Synonymously, though this is not strictly true (all alkalis are bases, not all bases are alkalis); essentially the“opposite” of an acid By far the most common base used in dyeing is sodium carbonate (soda ash). Other bases used include : • sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), • Trisodium phosphate (TSP) • sodium hydroxide. CAUTIONS : Strong bases can cause serious skin burns !!!!!

18. BATCH (ing) - leaving goods saturated with dye solution for some period of time, typically hours, and typically at “room temperature” for the dye to fix to the fibre In commercial dyeing, batching often follows padding. In art dyeing techniques, batching is often used with direct application techniques such as tie dye, painting and printing.

19. BIFUNCTIONAL REACTIVE DYE - A reactive dye that has more than one type of reactive group in the molecule These reactive dyes are designed to have the ability to react with the fibre in more than one way. This increases how much of the dye in the bath is actually fixed to the fibre, rather than being wasted through hydrolysis. Although the dye can react with the fibre in more than one way, the reaction does not happen as easily as with the popular MX family, so the temperature used is typically around 60°C (140°F). These dyes may be preferred to MX dyes by industrial users because of the lower waste (less effluent treatment cost) and lower reactivity, which can mean easier process control

20. Binder - A material, usually nearly colorless, that is typically used to attach a pigment to fabric Binders are more-or-less “glue” to hold the pigment in place. Paints consist of pigments mixed with binders. Many binders used in textile paints are acrylic polymers.

21. Black Black gets included in this glossary only because, in a way, it is a “problem” color. In many dye families, such as reactive dyes, there is no such thing as a “pure” black dye: blacks are made by using mixtures of other colors, often starting with a large proportion of a navy blue. To achieve a good dark black typically takes much more dye than for strong shades of other colors. It is not unusual to see recommendations between 6% and 10% owg. Because blacks are usually mixtures, discharge of black may yield unexpected results. Coppery colors are not uncommon. Reducing agent discharge may produce different results from oxidizing agent discharge. Some dye vendors offer black dyes that are specially formulated to discharge to almost white. Sulfur dyes are extensively used commercially for black cotton fabrics.

22. BLEACH, CHLORINE - a solution of sodium hypochlorite in water; an oxidizing bleach Household chlorine bleach, about 5% sodium hypochlorite, suitably diluted, can be used for whitening cellulose fabrics prior to dyeing. It is also used in some art discharge processes (this author knows of no industrial use of chlorine bleach for discharge). Chlorine bleach can damage cellulose fibres, but is safe if strength and exposure time are limited, and the bath pH is maintained at about 9.5. Goods must be thoroughly scoured prior to chlorine bleaching, otherwise impurities may form compounds that are yellow and very difficult to remove. An antichlor should usually be used to assure complete neutralization of the bleach. DO NOT mix chlorine bleach with acids chlorine gas will be liberated. Do not use chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex - fibre damage will result. Industrially, chlorine dioxide is sometimes used for bleaching. Although it is less likely to cause cellulose fibre damage, it is not suitable for home use because the bath is very corrosive to metals, and there is significant risk of chlorine gas production. In general, chlorine bleaching is obsolescent for industrial textile preparation. {Rev 3.0.0r}

23. Bleach, oxidizing - A bleach based on an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium hypochlorite Most general-purpose household bleaches belong to this class. Bleach, oxygen - A bleach based on hydrogen peroxide or a chemical derivative of hydrogen peroxide Oxygen bleaches typically are less damaging to fibres than chlorine-based bleaches. Most “color safe” bleaches are of this type. Dry powder bleaches and detergents of this class usually use a “peroxygen” compound such as sodium perborate , sodium percarbonate or potassium monopersulfate.

24. BLEACH, REDUCING (or REDUCTIVE) - a bleach or decolorizing compound that is based on a reducing agent This type of bleach is typically used for discharge or stripping. Usually they are not harmful to fibres, though some processes require temperature or pH that may damage fibres. Wool is often bleached with reducing bleaches. Thiourea dioxide and sodium hydrosulfite are two compounds that find use as reductive bleaches.

25. Buffer - In chemistry, a compound that resists change in pH when moderate amounts of acid or base are added to a 1. solution of it Buffers help to keep the pH of a dyebath from changing significantly as the process progresses. 2. Sodium acetate is one such buffer.

26. Carbonizing - Treatment of wool with acid and heat to remove plant materials Preparation of wool sometimes include treatment of the wool with sulfuric acid, followed by partial drying and heating. The hot acid will degrade or ‘carbonize’ bits of plant matter in the wool, so that it is easily removed by subsequent mechanical methods.

27. Carboxymethyl Starch - A modified starch (starch ether) 1. Carboxymethyl starch has had some of the hydroxyl groups replaced with carboxymethyl groups, which improves solubility and the stability of pastes. 2. This compound is suitable as a thickener for printing of disperse dyes and vat dyes. 3. It also has some resistance to chlorine bleach, and may be used for thickening bleach for use in discharge techniques. Monagum is one trade name.

28. CARRIER - with respect to disperse dyes, a chemical that aids dyeing at moderate temperature In order to dye polyester with disperse dye in a reasonable time at the boil, it is necessary to use a carrier.  Exactly how the carrier works seems to be a matter of some controversy, but it may work by swelling the fibres so that the dye can penetrate. The carrier will eventually evaporate from the fibre after dyeing is complete. Carriers are obsolescent in industrial process, partly because they are quite noxious and environmentally undesirable. Be sure to read and understand the MSDS for any carrier chemical you contemplate using.

29. CELLULASE - an enzyme that catalyzes the breakdown of cellulose . 1. Cellulase enzymes are used for de-pilling and defibrillation of cotton fabrics. 2. They can also be used to permanently soften cotton fabrics as an aid in or replacement for stone washing of denim, and in methods for“peaching” cotton fabrics. These enzymes are usually very difficult for the textile artist to obtain.

30. cellulose - a polymer of a very large numbers of units, each of the general formula [C6 H10 O5] Cellulose is a structural polysaccharide made by plants. Essentially, units very similar to glucose are assembled into huge molecules that form strong fibres. Among cellulose textiles are cotton, linen, ramie, jute and hemp. Rayon is a man-made cellulose fibre (actually regenerated cellulose - natural cellulose is the starting material). Each unit of the cellulose molecule has a number of hydroxyl (–OH) groups. These are the binding sites for reactive dyes. cellulose acetate - cellulose in which most of the hydroxyl (-OH) groups of cellulose have been replaced with acetyl (-OOCCH )3 groups Cellulose acetate is usually dyed with disperse dyes at a temperature of around 80°C to 90°C. It is quite easily damaged in alkaline conditions and loses its desirable lustre if boiled.

31. Celsius scale - A temperature scale which places the freezing point of water at zero degrees, and the boiling point of water 100 degrees; formerly called centigrade To convert to Fahrenheit: °F = (°C x 9/5) + 32 To convert from Fahrenheit: °C = (°F - 32) x 5/9

32. Chlorination Of Wool - Treatment of wool with chlorine compounds to alter the surface to make the wool less prone to shrinkage in washing and to improve dye uptake Chlorination, sometimes alone and sometime with subsequent application of special polymers, alters the surface of wool so that the scales are largely prevented from causing the “ratcheting” action that makes the motion of one strand of wool “one way” with respect to others whose scales point in the opposite direction. By preventing this ratcheting, wool fabric is much less likely to shrink when laundered. Chlorination also improves dye uptake in printing processes, but at the expense of washfastness. Chlorination is typically done using organic chlorine compounds, sometimes the same as those used for chlorination of small swimming pools.

33. Chromophore - A color-bearing compound, typically meaning the part of a larger organic molecule that makes it appear colored Dyes typically have a chromophore chemically bonded to other structures that impart desired characteristics such as affinity for the fibre and solubility in water. A particular chromophore structure may be found in a variety of dye classes and in pigments.

34. CHROME DYES - Dyes for wool that use chromium compounds as mordants These dyes are part of the broader category of mordant dyes for wool. CHROMIUM - the metallic element that forms the basis of a number of compounds often used as mordants, or as part of the molecular structure of pre-metallized dyes Potassium dichromate is a common mordant chemical. Chromium compounds are toxic and some are carcinogenic. They must be handled with care and understanding of the risks involved.

35. Cibacron® F and FN dye - A family of reactive dyes developed and manufactured by Ciba Specialty Chemicals This family of dyes is less reactive than the MX family, and is intended for application typically between 50°C and 60°C. Industrially, they have some definite merits over the MX family, and there are still new family members being introduced. Unfortunately, they are generally less available to the textile artist, partly due to Ciba’s corporate policies.

36. Citric acid - A solid organic acid; H2O6CCOOH(CH2 COOH) (or C2 H8 O7 ); 2-hydroxy-1,2,3- propanetricarboxilic acid  Citric acid is sometimes used in dyeing as an alternative to other chemicals such as acetic acid.  It is convenient to store and handle, but may be more expensive.  It is a weak acid but can produce pH in the range of 2 to 3. It can act as a sequestering agent for some metals, so it may be inappropriate for some metal-containing dyes such as premetallized dyes.  It is used as a resist in some printing processes with reactive dyes on cellulosic fibres, acting by maintaining a pH that prevents the dye from fixing to the fibre.

37. Cloud Point - The temperature at and above which a component will precipitate from solution  Most water soluble compounds become more soluble as temperature is increased, but some, such as non-ionic surfactants become less soluble with rising temperature.  The solution will go from clear to cloudy at the cloud point temperature, and the surfactants effectiveness will drop.

38. Colour Index - A joint publication of the Society of Dyers and Colourists in Britain and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists . The Colour Index contains information on dye structures, classifications, manufacturers and processes. Many “pure” dyes, that is, dyes which are a single color, rather than a mixture, have Colour Index names (for example, the reactive dye Turquoise MX-G is designated in the Colour Index as Reactive Blue 140). This name is normally independent of the manufacturer. The Colour Index is a multi- volume publication, priced at about one thousand US dollars (late 2000).

39. Copper Sulfate – CuSO4 ; also called copper (II) sulfate (read copper two sulfate) or cupric sulfate A copper compound sometimes used as a mordant, especially with natural dyes. Certain direct dyes are made more lightfast by after-dyeing treatment with copper sulfate.

40. Covalent Bond - A chemical bond where a pair of electrons is are shared relatively equally between two atoms in the  Compound Covalent bonds are formed between the fibres and reactive dyes.  These are the strongest type of chemical bond, and are responsible for the excellent washfastness of reactive dyes.

41. Crocking - Transfer of color from dyed or pigmented fabric by rubbing Wet crocking refers to transfer of color from a piece of dyed fabric to another piece of fabric, or to an undyed area of the same fabric, while the fabric is wet. Dry crocking means the same, except that the fabric is dry.

42. Cyan - A greenish blue color  Cyan is “officially” the subtractive primary.  It is the bluish color that is used in most printing processes, such as computer inkjet printing.  The blue color that appears in those little colored squares that are sometimes found near the fold on advertising flyers, or on the bottom or flap of printed packages is cyan, or at least, cyan as approximated by the printing ink used.  In the popular MX reactive dye family, Turquoise MX-G is a very good cyan.

43. Defibrillation - removal of fibrils from the surface of a fabric Individual fibres can become partially separated from the yarns that make up a fabric, poking up and degrading the appearance of the fabric. Fibrillation can result from long wet processing, especially if agitation is vigorous. With cellulose fibres, cellulase enzymes are now commonly used to remove fibrils from dyed garments.

44. Density - As a measure of physical properties of a substance, the ratio of the mass (weight) of the substance to its Volume Knowing the density of something makes it possible to reasonably approximate a required weight of the substance by measuring volume, which is often more convenient. For example, fine granulated salt may have a density of about 1.25 grams per cubic centimeter.

45. Depth OF Shade - Ratio of weight of dye to weight of goods dyed, usually expressed as percentage; amount of dye Owg Depth of shade (DOS), in these terms, is not really a very good way of comparing the darkness or intensity of color of finished fabrics, due to inherent differences in the hues of different dyes within a family, differences between dye families, and differences due to the nature of the fabric. Dye manufacturers’ shade cards are typically show one or two depths of shade for a particular dye, often between 1% and 4%, except for black, which is typically 3% to 6%.

46. Desizing - Removal of size from fabric  Desizing is an important step prior to dyeing fabric, since size can interfere with dye uptake. Some size materials wash out easily.  Starch is commonly used for size, and can be quite difficult to remove.  Amylase enzymes are often used industrially for starch removal.  Some sizes can be readily removed by hot water washing.

47. Devoré - A technique for “sculpting” fabric using etchants or burn-out paste dextrin - a modified starch Dextrin is used as a thickener for some textile printing processes, and as a resist for some direct application dyeing techniques (it generally isn’t usable for immersion dyeing because it washes off too easily). It is made by partially breaking down starch to smaller molecules using acids and/or heat. There are several different dextrins with different properties. Dextrin may also called British gum, but some workers regard them as distinct.

48. Diluent - A solid or liquid chemical used to dilute another Sodium sulfate is a common diluent for dry dyes. Since the manufacturing of dyes does not always result in exactly the same strength of dye from batch to batch, manufactures routinely add a diluent to adjust the batch to a standardized strength. Diluents may make up a large portion of dyes designed to yield pale shades. For example, a dye that yields dark red at 2% o.w.g. may be diluted to yield a pale pink using 2% o.w.g. of the diluted dye. Diluting dry dyes in the way is done primarily as a convenience to the dyer.

49. Direct dye - A dye class based on application method, which is essentially by immersion of the fibre in a solution of dye without the need for other chemicals to bond the dye to the fibre (though other chemicals may aid exhaustion) Direct dyes have high substantivity, but bond weakly to fibres, and therefore usually have poor washfastness. Lightfastness varies from poor to very good. A post-dyeing fixative is often used to improve washfastness. Brightness can be limited in direct dyes, because brightness often is associated with small molecules and small molecules tend to make poor direct dyes. “Household” dyes, of the sort that are sold in grocery stores, typically are union dyes which contain a direct dye and an acid dye.

50. Discharge - localized removal of dye from fabric Discharge is used to remove dye from fabric in printing and similar processes. Often another illuminating dye is applied to the area that is discharged. Sometimes the new color is included in the discharge paste. Some dyes are quite easy to discharge, others are very difficult to discharge. This can be the case even within a single dye family. (Commercially dyed black fabric is notorious for producing unpredictable results in discharge. This is because most black dyes are mixtures of several colors.) Industrial discharge processes use reducing agents such as thiourea dioxide, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate or tin chloride. Art dyers will often use household chlorine bleach for discharge techniques (this author knows of no commercial use of chlorine bleach for discharge). Some discharge techniques decolorize the dye but leave remnants fixed to the fibre, while others break the bond between the dye and the fibre.