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CERAMICS

CERAMICS. An Overview. CERAMICS - the art of making functional objects by firing at high temperatures. These objects include teapots, vases, plates, pitchers and drinking vessels.

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CERAMICS

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  1. CERAMICS An Overview

  2. CERAMICS- the art of making functional objects by firing at high temperatures.

  3. These objects include teapots, vases, plates, pitchers and drinking vessels.

  4. KILN -oven used to cook clay-temperatures reach over 2000 degrees FFIRE -when clay is cooked in the kiln. This process hardens and strengthens clay and adheres glazes.

  5. GREENWARE- damp, malleable clay before firing. Greenware must be pounded before use. This removes air bubbles which prevents explosions. All parts of the clay object must be no thicker than the fat part of your thumb. If thicker you must hollow out this area.

  6. Clay must always be covered in a bag to remain in this stage. Air will dry out clay to a bone dry stage. At that point it will not be workable.

  7. TAKING CARE OF YOUR CLAYYou will receive a 25lb bag of clay that you will use the entire school year • Always keep your clay in a plastic bag with no holes. • You must take care of this clay and use the entire bag. You will not receive new clay until all the clay is finished. • Use a wire tool to cut only the clay you need for that class period. Once clay is exposed to air and your hands it begins to dry out. • At the end of the period ball up any extra clay into one large piece. The smaller and thinner the piece of clay the faster it will dry out. • If the clay is still wet pound back into the larger piece in your bag. • If the clay is dry ( begins to crack ) wrap the extra ball of clay in a wet cloth. Place back in the bag and close tightly.

  8. Leatherhard- clay that is firm but still damp enough to manipulate its form. This is the best condition to trim, carve and add appendages. Over time clay will naturally become leatherhard when covered in a bag.

  9. BONE DRY - clay that is ready for firing. It has dried out for at least 5 days and has lost most of its water. Turns lighter in color when dry.Very, very fragile at this point. Do not pick it up until it has been fired.

  10. BISQUE FIRE –clay that has been fired once. Form is stronger at this point. Below the bright white vessels are bisque fired, the darker gray ones on the boards are bone dry.

  11. GLAZE- a liquid that is painted on a ceramic piece to seal the porous surface and add color.

  12. PINCH METHOD – using your fingers to create a form.

  13. COIL METHOD-using snake-like forms to build a form.Excellent method for building tall hollow vessels.

  14. Coils can be smoothed out using a rib tool. This tool is usually made of wood with both a curved and straight edge. Clay must be leatherhard for this technique to work correctly.

  15. SLAB- clay that is rolled out into an even wall. Clay is rolled out with a rolling pin or slab roller ( bottom right ). Slabs can be built into a box, rolled into a cylinder or draped over a mold.

  16. DRAPE METHOD- using slabs that are placed and pressed over a mold. The mold can be a bowl or any form found or made by the artist. The mold must be covered in cheesecloth or newspaper so the clay won’t stick to it .

  17. CARVE-subtracting clay with a tool to create texture or a new form.Leatherhard clay is the best stage for this technique.

  18. SLIP- very wet clay that is used to adhere separate clay pieces together.

  19. SLIP AND SCORE- Method for adhering separate pieces of clay together. Must be done for all pieces and parts of a project. If not than as project becomes bone dry it shrinks and will fall apart. 1) Using a fork scratch into both sections that are to be attached.

  20. 2) Apply slip to one section and then blend parts together with a knife. 3) Seam must be blended together so there is no evidence of two separate parts

  21. Clay toolsWire tool used to cut clayRibbon tool used to hollow out and carve clayFelting knife used to blend slip/score seams

  22. Names of the sections of a finished vessel

  23. The ceramic process in chronological order • Pound clay several times • Cover table with tablecloth and put clay on canvas board. Pick up canvas board instead of project so you won’t deform your project. • Work clay into form using hand building methods. • Always cover clay project in progress with a plastic bag. Project will dry out into a bone dry stage within a few hours if left uncovered and will be unworkable! • Over time as you work on your piece it will begin to get dry. COVER WITH A DAMP CLOTH AND BAG TO KEEP CLAY WET. NEVER COVER WITH A WET CLOTH BECAUSE THE CLAY WILL GET TOO WET AND FALL APART. • Add appendages, carve, etc. when clay is leatherhard. Slip and score all pieces together. Clay will naturally become leatherhard over time but you can quicken the process by puffing up bag with air. • When finished creating your project remove from bag and let air dry in the kiln room. It must dry out for several days before it can be fired. • When bone dry project is bisque fired which takes 8-10 hours. • After project is fired it is ready to be glazed and it must be fired a second time at a lower temperature. When object is glaze fired it will be smooth, shiny and functional.

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