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CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION. ADVANCED. Joy Jordan, Extension 4-H Youth Department Specialist and Tiffany Browning, 4-H Project Coordinator, Department of Family Youth & Community Sciences. Picking the Perfect Fabric. Fabric should be suitable to your skill level.
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CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION ADVANCED Joy Jordan, Extension 4-H Youth Department Specialist and Tiffany Browning, 4-H Project Coordinator, Department of Family Youth & Community Sciences
Picking the Perfect Fabric • Fabric should be suitable to your skill level. • Beginning sewers should use a small print fabric because there is no matching required. • Pay attention to the to what type of fabric the pattern requires. You don’t want to make a sundress out of velvet.
Fabric Preparation • Pre-wash the fabric!! This prevents the garment from shrinking and not fitting after you have constructed it. • Iron the wrinkles out of the fabric to make it easier to sew.
Choosing Seams & Finishes • Choosing the right seam and finish for the garment is important. • Different seams are created for different types of fabrics and garments. • Which seam should you use? Look at the next few slides and see!
Choosing Seams & Finishes Double-Stitched Seam This seam is used to add durability in stress areas. To stitch this seam, you first make a plain stitch and then add a second row of stitching.
Choosing Seams & Finishes This stitch is used on sheer fabrics. It is a seam within a seam. First stitch the wrong sides together and turn and press. Then place the right sides together and stitch again. French Seams
Choosing Seams & Finishes Turned Under and Stitched Seam This seam is used on light to medium weight fabrics (especially good for jackets). Turn 1/8 inch machine stitch close to the edge. Work from the top side of the seam.
Choosing Seams & Finishes Hong Kong Seam This seam is used to enclose seams, but is less bulky than bias tape. Place right side of binding on right side of seam. Stitch at 1/8 inch from the edge. Turn binding over edge to inside. Stitch-in-the-ditch on the top side.
Mix N Match • On the next slide, you will see the four types of seams we discussed today. • Write on your scorecard the name of each of the seams. ? • Then you will see four definitions. For each of the scenarios tell which definition is correct. ? ?
What Type of Seam is It? 2. 1. 3. 4.
Definition #1 This seam is used for added durability in stress areas. It consists of a normal seam then another seam 1/8 inch from the first stitching.
Definition #2 This seam is used on see through fabrics. It is a seam within a seam. It has a seam sewn together with the wrong sides together and then after it is pressed, another seam is sewn with the right sides together.
Definition #3 This seam is used to enclose other seams without the bulk of double fold bias tape. A very light weight fabric is placed on the right side of the binding to right side of the seam. The stitch is 1/8 inch from the edge, then turned over and stitched again in the ditch.
Definition #4 This seam is used on light to medium weight fabrics. However, this can not be used if there are extremely curved seams. The edges of a ¾ stitch are turned 1/8 inch, then stitched close to the edge. This is a great finish for unlined jackets.
Matching the Picture • French Seam • Hong Kong Seam • Turned Under and Stitched Seam • Double Stitch Seam
Definitions • Double Stitch Seam • French Seam • Hong Kong Seam • Turned Under and Stitched Seam
Score Card Matching the Definition 1. 2. 3. 4. Matching the Picture 1. 2. 3. 4.