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Contents. Two Important Parameters For Waves In Shallow WaterNondimensional VariablesNondimensional Governing Equation
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1. Nonlinear Long Wave in Shallow Water
2. Contents
8. Depth Average Horizontal Velocity & Wave Elevation
11. Ariy's Theory For Very Long & Very Steep Waves
13. Boussinesq's Approximation
15. Steady KdV (Korteweg-de Vries) Equation
19. Solitary Waves
22. Cnoidal Wave