The Art of Curing and Smoking Foods

1. Chapter 5 Cured and Smoked Foods

2. Chapter 5 Objectives • Understand the history and purpose of cured and smoked foods • Identify the crucial ingredients for preserving foods • Explain the function of salt in osmosis, dehydration, and fermentation • Describe the role of curing salts in preserving foods • Discuss seasoning and flavoring options for cured and smoked foods • Compare the effects of dry cures and brines • Describe the evolution of brining from a preservation technique to a flavoring technique • Evaluate cold smoking and hot smoking alternatives • Explain the technique of air-drying • Describe the method of preservation in fat

3. Preservation Techniques • Curing and brining • Smoking • Drying • Preserving in fat

4. Ingredients for Preserving Foods • Salt is the basic ingredient used in preserving food • Basic processes in which salt plays an important role: • Osmosis • Dehydration • Fermentation • Denaturing proteins

5. Osmosis • A simple definition states that osmosis is the movement of a solvent (typically water) through a semi-permeable membrane (the cell walls) in order to equalize the concentration of a solute (typically salt) on both sides of the membrane. • Getting the salt inside the cell, where it can kill off harmful pathogens, is the essence of salt-curing foods.

6. Dehydration • Applying salt to foods can dry them effectively, since the salt tends to attract the free water, making it unavailable to microbes. • Exposure to air or heat for controlled periods allows the water to evaporate, reducing the overall volume and weight of the food.

7. Fermentation • Enzymes ferment the food by breaking down the compounds in these foods into gases and organic compounds. • By increasing the acid levels in the food, enzymes also help to preserve foods, since most harmful pathogens can only thrive when the levels of acids are within a specific pH range. • Salt is important to act as a control on this process, since it affects how much water is available to the enzymes.

8. Denaturing Proteins • Changing the structure of the proteins found in food • The strands that make up the protein are encouraged to lengthen or coil, open or close, recombine or dissolve in such a way that foods that were once soft may become firm, smooth foods may become grainy, translucent foods may become cloudy, etc.

9. Curing Salts: Nitrates and Nitrites • Compounds already present in unrefined salts: • Nitrates (NO3) take longer to break down in cured foods than nitrites. • Nitrites(NO2) break down faster, making them appropriate for use in any cured item that will later be fully cooked.

10. Nitrosamine Controversy • When nitrates and nitrites break down in the presence of extreme heat (specifically, when bacon is cooked), potentially dangerous substances known as nitrosamines may form in the food. • Discovered to be carcinogenic in 1956 • The use of nitrates and nitrites is closely regulated.

11. Tinted Cure Mix, Pink Cure and Insta-cure #1 • TCM (or Insta-cure #1): • 94% sodium chloride (salt) and 6% sodium nitrite • Tinted pink for identification reasons • Recommended ratio: • 4 oz of TCM to each 100 lb of meat

12. Insta-cure #2 • Insta-cure #2 contains: • Salt • Sodium nitrite • Sodium nitrate • Pink coloring • Used to make dry and dry-fermented products

13. Cure Accelerators: Sodium Erythorbate and Ascorbate • Work together with nitrites to enhance color development and flavor retention in cured foods • Have some of the same reddening effects of nitrates and nitrites but is temporary • Cannot be used to substitute for nitrates or nitrites

14. Sweeteners can: Help overcome the harshness of the salt in the cure Balance the overall flavor palette Counteract bitterness in liver products Help stabilize color in cured meats Increase water retention (moisture) in finished products Provide a good nutrient source for fermentation Types of Sweeteners: Sugar Dextrose Corn syrup Sugar Honey Maple syrup Sweeteners as Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients

15. Spices and herbs that are used to enhance a product’s flavor and give it a particular character include: Cinnamon Allspice Nutmeg Mace Cardamom Dried or fresh chiles Infusions or essences Wines Fruit juices Vinegars Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients

16. Cures and Brines • Curing is the generic term used to indicate brines, pickling or corning solutions, or dry cures. • When salt, in the form of a dry cure or brine, is applied to a food, the food is referred to as cured, brined, pickled, or corned. • Salt brines may also be known as pickles; this is true whether or not vinegar is added to the brine.

17. Dry Cures • Can be as simple as salt alone • More often is a mixture of salt, a sweetener, flavorings and a curing blend • Mixture is packed and rubbed over the surface of the food • Keeping the foods in direct contact with the cure helps to ensure an evenly preserved product

18. Dry Cure Times for Meats

19. Brines • When a dry cure is dissolved in water, it is known as a wet cure, or a brine. • Technique used primarily to retain moisture • Two brining techniques: • Brine-soaking – submerging food in brine (smaller items) • Injecting brine – ensures the brine penetrates completely and evenly (larger items); brine is the equivalent of 10% of item’s weight

20. The basic formula for brine has changed because the purpose of brining has evolved. In recent years, meat has begun to be bred leaner to address health concerns throughout the country. Today’s brines are used to add moisture and flavor to meats. Heat 1 gallon of water, add the salt, sugar and flavorings. Dissolve the salt and sugar. Add 3 gallons of cold water and 1 gallon of ice to chill the brine Brines

21. Brining Time for Meats

22. Smoke • Smoke has been intentionally applied to foods since it was first recognized that holding meats and other provisions off the ground near the smoky fires did more than dry them more quickly or prevent animals from getting to them. • The hanging foods, treated to a smoke-bath, took on new and enticing flavors. • Basic features of smokers: • Smoke source • Smoke chamber where food is exposed • Circulation • Ventilation

23. Hardwoods: Hickory Oak Cherry Walnut Chestnut Apple Alder Mesquite Wood from citrus trees Softwoods are not viable options Never use pressure-treated wood under any circumstances—it is deadly poisonous. Woods Used for Smoking

24. Teas Herb stems Whole spices Grapevine clippings Corn husks Fruit peels Peanut shells Alternative Smoking Sources

25. Smoke: The Pellicle • Before cured foods are smoked, they should be allowed to air-dry long enough to form a tacky skin, known as a pellicle. • It acts as a kind of protective barrier for the food, and also plays an important role in capturing the smoke’s flavor and color. • Most foods can be properly dried by placing them on racks or by hanging them on hooks or sticks where air is flowing around all sides.

26. Cold Smoking • Criteria for cold-smoked items: • Type of cure • Duration of cure • Whether or not the food will be air-dried after smoking • Foods that will be cooked by another means after smoking

27. Cold Smoking • Temperature for cold smoking: Below 100 degrees Fahrenheit • In this temperature range, foods take on a rich smoky flavor, develop a deep mahogany color, and tend to retain a relatively moist texture. • They are not cooked as a result of the smoking process and proteins do not denature.

28. Hot Smoking • Temperature for hot smoking: 185 – 250 degrees Fahrenheit • Food exposed to smoke and heat in a controlled environment • Foods are fully cooked, moist and flavorful • Safe to eat without further cooking

29. Smoke-Roasting • Any process that has the attributes of both smoking and roasting • Sometimes referred to as barbecuing or spit-roasting • Equipment that can be used: • Smoke-roaster • Closed wood-fire oven • Barbecue pit • Any smoker that can reach above 250°F • Conventional oven

30. Pan-Smoking • Smoking without using a smoker or smokehouse • Gives smoke-enhanced flavor • Items needed: • 2 disposable aluminum pans • Rack • Sawdust • Drawback: hard to control smoke and flavor may be too intense or bitter

31. Drying • Some items need to be air-dried in lieu of or in addition to smoking • Requires careful balance of temperature and humidity control • Items that are preserved by drying: • Serrano ham (cured and cold-smoked first) • Smithfield hams (cured and cold-smoked first) • Prosciutto crudo di Parma (cured and cold-smoked first) • Roman-Style Air-Dried Beef • Bresealo • Beef jerky

32. Confits Cured Simmered in rendered fat Placed in crocks and completely covered in fat Meats age in fat for 1 week Rillettes Stew boned meats in fat or broth with vegetables and aromatics Cooked meat is blended with fat to make a paste Stored in crocks or pots, covered with a layer of fat to act as a seal Preserving in Fat: Classic Methods of Preserving Food