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OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care

OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care. J&J – BSI SEMINAR 14th May 2012. A fruitfull collaboration. On 10 specialty products; Radia 7750; Isoamy Laurate Radia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Radia 7758; Sorbitan Isostearate Radia 7447; PEG-8 Diisostearate

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OLEON A NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care

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  1. OLEONA NATURAL CHEMISTRY Personal Care J&J – BSI SEMINAR 14th May 2012

  2. A fruitfull collaboration On 10 specialty products; Radia 7750; Isoamy Laurate Radia 2253; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Radia 7758; Sorbitan Isostearate Radia 7447; PEG-8 Diisostearate Radia 7687; Neopentylglycol Diisostearate Radia 7181; Pentaertythrityl Tetraisostearate Radia 7373; Triisostearin Radia 7380; Trimethylol Propane Triisostearate Radia 2248 ; Polyglyceryl-3 stearate Radia 7887; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate

  3. WHO is oleon?

  4. Core business of Oleon Animal health and breeding Oil cake Breeders Transformation and animal productions Biotechnologies Seeds Pesticides Other services for agriculture Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds Animal nutrition Growers Crushing Food Oils Renewable energies Growers and breeders Renewable chemicals Oilseeds division Food and animal sector division Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern Oleonis a leading company in Europe for the production of chemicals based on Natural Oils. Oleon is a subsidiary of the Sofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.

  5. International character of Oleon Oleon Sales Offices 6 Plants (Ertvelde, Oelegem, Compiègne, Sandefjord, Emmerich, Port Klang) Oleon Northern Europe Oleon UK Oleon Americas Oleon HQ Oleon GmbH Oleon France Oleon China Oleon Southern Europe Oleon Asia Pacific

  6. Values of Oleon Environmental concern RSPO member Iso14001 certification Innovation driven Investments in innovation centre Technical involvement Application research & Product improvement in R&D lab Quality focus COSMOS/Ecocert Kosher/Halal

  7. RSPO Promoting the Growth And Use of Sustainable Palm Oil Oleon is an RSPO member Oleon is member since 2007 Oleon respects RSPO principle & criteria • Among its principles • …Respect for rights of land owners, farmworkers, smallholders and their families. • …No primary forests or high conservation value areas sacrificed for new palm oil plantations

  8. Our Chemistry.

  9. Fromnaturetooleochemistry Rapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor… Containing

  10. Fromoleochemistrytoconsumer product Hydrolyses Glycerol Fatty acid Esterification Alcohol building block Fatty acid Ester

  11. A glanceinto the Radia building blocks

  12. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearic derivates

  13. Characteristics: HLB-scale of William C. Griffin • Stands for: Hydrophilic/lipophilic Balance • Established for: Non-ionic emulsifiers • Formula: HLB = 20* [MW hydrophilic part/MW total molecule] • Purpose: Scale to performance of the emulsifier • High HLB = hydophylic type • Low HLB = lipophylic type Low HLB Hydrophylic part Hydrophylic part Low HLB Oil (Fat) soluble Water in oil emulsion High HLB Water soluble Oil in Water emulsion -OH function -OH function FA function FA function Lipophylic part Lipophylic part High HLB

  14. Characteristics: HLB versus performance

  15. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Characteristics Radia portfolio Eye catchers Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearicderivates

  16. Characteristics: An emollientanditssensorial aspect … softens and smoothes the skin … results in elastic and lubricated skin An emollient can be characterised by sensorial terminology: Spreading Absorption Greasiness Stickiness Softness Smoothness

  17. Characteristics: An emollientanditschemistry An emollientcanbecharacterisedbyphysicochemicalterminology Low viscosity Viscosity = light feel & good spread Branchedstructure Liquid means easy to handle = Cold processing  Light feel Saturatedstructure Chemical stability  No off odour, no off colour Low molecularweight light & dry feel  quickabsorption High polarity (Harkin)  Good spread Low contact angle Wettingcapacity

  18. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearicderivates

  19. Radia 7887: W/O emulsion How commercial is a W/O-emulsion? Applications: Sun Screen milks Skin protective baby creams Massage milks Lotions and creams For dry and sensitive skin Hand & feet care Night creams Properties: Skin protection Long lasting moisturization Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients Reduced preservative concentration

  20. Radia 7887: coldprocess T (°C) 1 2 3 Hot Process +/- 80 4 5 Homogenize 20 How do you benefit of a cold process method? COLD PROCESSING equals cost reduction by means of …time No heating time No cooling time …energy No need for melting …amount No additional co-emulsifier Low concentration Time T (°C) Cold Process 1 2 3 5 4 20 Homogenize Time

  21. Radia 7887: its building blocks POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE Glycerol Ricinoleate Sorbitol Isostearate Saponification of a vegetable oil Rapeseed oil Extraction & destillation Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) Hydrogenation & filtration Wheat/Maize Saponification, neutralization & destillation Rapeseed oil

  22. The identity of Radia 7887 Radia 7887 INCI: POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE HLB: 4,2 Performance: Single emulsifier Liquid W/O emulsifier Sensorial:provides emulsions with a glossy appearance Speciality: EO free - Palm free - PEG free fit for high and low internal phase based on natural raw materials no need for co-emulsifier functions at low levels (<1%) COLD Process

  23. Radia 7887: viscosity How to reach consistency with only liquid ingredients? • Increase of water phase % • Using emollients with higher viscosity • Homogenization (sharing force) Results in a rich, consistent and stable cream

  24. Radia 7887: stability Stability testing parameters? Evaluation methods 1) Centrifuge stability (3x15min @ 4000rpm) 2) Temperature stability 8 weeks @ 50°C 3 months@ 40°C >4 months@ RT Freeze-thaw 5 cycles at -15°C/RT 3) Viscosity stability ( mPas) Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindle After 1 day After 3 months 4) Appearance Visual aspect Test formulation W/O Oil phase Oil 10 %, 18% or 30% Emulsifier 1% or 4% Water phase Glycerol 4% MgSO4.7H2O 0,7% Preservative q.s. Water to 100% Low external phase = 10% High external phase = 30% Low surfactant = 1% High surfactant = 3.5%

  25. Radia 7887: stability What about stability performance? • A low emulsifier (1%) emulsion showed to be stable with • …MCT • …paraffin oils up to 18% • A high emulsifier (4%) emulsion showed to be stable with • …MCT • …sunflower oil • …paraffin oils • A remarkable synergy and high viscosity is observed using sunflower oil which benefits your green formulation. • R7887 emulsions show stability with internal phases up to 82%!

  26. Radia 7887: formulations Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2 Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.) Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading

  27. Radia 7887: formulations W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3 • Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.) • Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

  28. Radia 7887: formulations Low CostProtective baby cream HP11-12-1 • Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.) • Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading

  29. Radia 7887: the movie

  30. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers & Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearicderivates

  31. The identity of Radia 7750 Radia 7750 INCI: ISOAMYL LAURATE Performance: High wetting power Solvating functionality (short chain ester) Sensorial:Silky feeling Degreasing power Excellent spreadability & quick penetration Anti-tack agent Speciality: Natural building blocks Practical Usage Applications:Body oils & bath oils Wet wipes Natural hair care products O/W & W/O creams

  32. Radia 7750: a green chemical

  33. Radia7750: wettingproperties

  34. Radia 7750: practical use • Usage level • Oftenused as primaryoil : 4-80%. • Higherusage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils. • O/W and W/O emulsioncreams: 5-20%. • Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 % • Natural hair care: 1-5%

  35. WHAT CAN WE OFFER Emulsifiers Emollients Stabilizers Pearlescent body agents In the picture Radia 7887 Radia 7750 Isostearicderivates

  36. Isostearicderivates: Characteristics Isostearic derivates are saturated: Chemical stability No need for antioxidant Isostearic acid is a natural based building block from rapeseed oil. Isostearic derivates are branched: Excellent emolliency Non-greasy afterfeel Highly substantive lipid film Soft skinfeel Glossy appearance

  37. Isostearicderivates: Characteristics Isostearic derivates have a low melting point(vs straight-chain analogues): No crystallization Isostearic derivatives can replace oleic derivatives Isostearic derivates are liquid: Cold emulsion method Practicial use A solution for heat sensitive products A solution for challenging formulations

  38. Isostearicderivates: Portfolio

  39. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7373 Radia 7373 INCI: TRIISOSTEARIN Performance: Dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments Solvating functionality Modifies melting points Sensorial:Long lasting spreadability (no migration) when combined with ligh emollient Speciality: ‘Natural oil – like’ with enhanced emulsification properties Applications: Lipsticks (long lasting) Colour cosmetics

  40. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7739 Radia 7739 • INCI: ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE • Performance: Light textureemollient • Functions as overall reducer of tackiness • Affective solvent and disperser • Sensorial:High gloss & low occlusive • Fastabsorption & goodspreadability • Imperceptibleafterfeel on the skin(Betterthan IPM) • Speciality: low amount of residuerequired • Applications:Unique ingredientformanycosmeticpreparations • Face andeyes make up

  41. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7380 Radia 7380 INCI: TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE Performance: Substantiveandroch, film formingemollient Dispersantforsolidingredients Potential SPF booster Sensorial:GoodLubricant Rich Film formingemollient Shine & plasticizerproperties in hair care Non-tacky feel Improves skin elasticity Speciality:Mineraloilreplacement Applications:general skin & hair care depilatorycreams, colour cosmetics, sunand baby care, shavingformulations

  42. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7687 Radia 7687 INCI: NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIISOSTEARATE Performance: Silky and good spreading emollient Viscosity increasing agent Sensorial: Skin conditioning agent Silky and rich skin feel Applications:Sun care Protective creams Shaving creams Moisturizing creams and lotions Baby care Make-up

  43. Eye catcher: the identity of Radia 7181 Radia 7181 INCI: PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE Performance: Dispersantactivities Contributes as waterrepellent agent Pearlescent – bodying agent Sensorial: High gloss film Resists to rub off Good lubrication & reduces drag on application Substantiveandcushion feel. Speciality: Goodalternativetocastoroil. Applications: Sun care Liquid foundations Lipsticks High solid make up

  44. Oleon Head Office Assenedestraat 2 9940 Ertvelde - Belgium T: +32 (0)9 341 10 11 F: +32 (0)9 341 10 00 E: info@oleon.com

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