Sustainable Hairdressing

1. Sustainable Hairdressing

2. Who are we? • Team of Social Researchers from the University of Southampton, Hairdressers and Environmental Managers; Dr Denise Baden, Dr Swarna Prasad, Danielle Mills, Jordan Peel • Project: “Embedding sustainability in the hairdressing curriculum – sustainable solutions for hair and beauty sector” conducted by the University of Southampton and funded by the Economic and Social Research Council.

3. Note to Trainers; • Please feel free to use or adapt this presentation to suit the needs of your course/students. • Every point is covered both by text and by video clips so choose which clips/text you want and delete any you don’t to avoid repetition.

4. Eco Hair and Beauty Presentation Overview: • Background to the key concepts relating to sustainability such as: climate change, global warming, resource use and sustainable development, with video clips to illustrate. • Video clips made specifically for training providers to show trainee hairdressers how to practice sustainable hairdressing. These cover: • Practices that save energy and water in the salon and at home. • Eco products for use in salon and by clients. • Green technologies. • Sustainable after care practices for clients.

5. Key sustainability concepts

6. One Planet Living • Globally; humanity is currently consuming 50% more natural resources than the Earth's ecosystems can replenish (WWF). • United Kingdom; if everyone in the world were to consume natural resources and generate CO2 at the rate we do in the UK, we'd need three planets to support us. • We only have one planet and need to stop over consuming our planets resources by making sustainable changes in our homes and places of work. • Concept of One Planet Living (2:46mins) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3NZ7cmR9v8 • WWF Basic concept of sustainability and climate change (1 min) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSNsnhqFQvU

7. SustainableDevelopment Sustainable Development is development that; “meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’’ (Brundtland Commission, 1987).

8. In order for salons to be successful in the future they need to consider the 3 pillars of sustainability where the social, environmental and economical needs of the business are balanced. The Three Pillars of Sustainability

9. Social Meets Environmental Social • Paying employees a fair wage • Fairtrade tea and coffee • Cutting wigs for cancer patients • Donating hair clippings to oil spills and cancer charities • Using socially responsible products • Eco community events • Supporting charities Spreading sustainable after-care advice with clients • Adopting organic or ultra-low ammonia colours • Creating a safe environment for staff and clients Environmental • Installing renewable or low carbon technology • Switching to a green energy supplier • Up-cycling furniture • Using brushes from FSC certified sources • Training staff to reduce their own environmental impact • Investing in industry specific green technology • Adopting a product range where the ingredients are sourced from renewable and sustainable sources • Reduce waste sent to landfill • Reduce energy consumption • Reduce water consumption

10. Climate change and Global warming When CO2 is released into the atmosphere, it acts as a greenhouse gas i.e. it causes heat to remain trapped within the atmosphere, rather than escaping back to space. This causes global warming. Science tells us that the increasing century is mostly man-made and that temperatures are rising now faster than ever (WWF, 2015a).

11. Climate change and Global warming • The Climate Change Act (2008) was introduced to ensure the UK cuts its carbon emissions by 80% by 2050. The 80% target is set against a 1990 baseline. The Governments policies to help businesses and households achieve this are set out in: https://www.gov.uk/government/policies/greenhouse-gas-emissions https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global_warming • A rise of just 2°c would result in severe storms, floods and droughts, little or no arctic ice, and more acidic oceans (WWF, 2015a). This is likely to result in water shortages and developing countries in the South becoming deserts. This affects us all, as we depend on the South for crops such as coffee, chocolate, sugar, fruit etc. Sea levels and coastal areas will become uninhabitable.

12. Reducing Water and Energy Consumption

13. Energy Use in the UKWhat can you do? • Cut energy use. What are your most energy-hungry appliances? • Typical wattage of a power shower is about 10,500 watts (DEFRA, 2011), and the typical wattage of a residential water heater is about 4,500watts. Comparatively, the typical wattage of a TV is only 140watts. • Can reduce use of water heater and/or switch to more eco-product e.g. Low flow showers with a wattage of about 8,500 watts, or shower aerators, which reduce water consumption by about 50%.

14. Salon activities that depend on energy • Blow drying the hair • Straightening, curling, setting the hair • Climazones and hooded dryers • Washing towels • Boiling the kettle • Lighting The hot water heated to wash hair

15. Reducing energy consumption through behaviour change • Waiting for a full load before you put the washing machine on • Switching lights off • Switching appliances off • Switching taps off • Filling the kettle for the right amount of cups • Using products to help speed up blow drying time where appropriate • Using the correct blow drying techniques to provide a quality, yet efficient service

16. Benefits of Sustainable Behaviour • Changes culture of the industry • Long term impact as it becomes the norm • Simple and not time consuming • Gets to the root of the problem • No need for large investment

17. Industry specific green technology that reduces energy consumption • Gammu Piu IES Dryer • Single use towels such as EasyDry or Enki • Ecoheads • Professional Hair Spa • Curlformers

18. Why is it important to reduce the salon’s electricity consumption? • Saves resources and conserves fossil fuels • Reduces carbon emissions and benefits climate change • Reduces air pollution • Reduces demand for electricity which makes the salon less vulnerable to energy price fluctuations • People are over-consuming and sustainable actions set a good example for others to follow

19. Why is it important to reduce water consumption? • Risk of water scarcity becoming a real threat • Relieves pressure on water treatment plants • Saves water and conserves the vital resource • Good habits can influence others to make changes

20. Salon activities that depend on water • Washing the clients hair for a cut and blow dry • Rinsing off a clients colour • Rinsing a perm • Washing towels • Washing up • Filling the kettle for hot drinks • Mopping the salon

21. Behaviour change to reduce water consumption? • Switching taps off • Waiting for a full load before you put the washing machine on • Filling the kettle for the right amount of cups • Filling the sink to wash up

22. Industry specific green technology that reduce water consumption EcoHeads • Save water consumption by 50% • Enhances clients experience by massage motion • Purifies water which results in a cleaner smoother blow dry Single use towels (e.g. EasyDry, Enki) • Saves water • Biodegradeable, which reduces pressure on landfill • Sourced from sustainable forests • Hygienic

23. Non-industry specific green technology that reduces water consumption Grey water system • A grey water system is an effective way to reuse the high volume of water that a salon produces. • The system collects ‘white’ water that has been produced as a result of the shampooing process, the washing machine and general housekeeping duties. • The water is filtered into the grey water system and is used for toilet water.

24. Reducing Water Pollution

25. Water Pollution • Waste water from hair washing is classed as “grey-water”, and is transported by sewer systems to a treatment facility. It is vital therefore that waste water is transported safely and treated. If these toxic chemicals were released into soil or water, they could cause great ecological damage. • More than 5,000 different chemicals are found in hair dye products, some of which are reported to be carcinogen, causing cancer in animals (Bolt & Golka, 2007, de Sanjose et al., 2006).

26. Case study: Eutrophication Ammonia pollution is a form of water pollution. It results in a process known as eutrophication, which leads to the excessive growth of organisms such as algae, preventing sunlight and oxygen reaching other organisms beneath the water surface. Effects on the Environment • Results in low levels of oxygen in freshwater or seawater • Algal bloom blocks out the sunlight and kills fish • Algal bloom blocks out the sunlight and kills aquatic life

27. What Can be Done to Reduce Water Pollution? Reduce colour waste When mixing colour it can be easy to overestimate the colour needed for the service or clients hair. This wasted colour is then washed unnecessarily down the drain causing water pollution. Mixing colour responsibly can reduce ecological damage and save the salon money. Opt for Organic and Ultra Low Ammonia Options Alternative hair colour contains fewer toxic chemicals which ultimately gets washed down the drain and enters the water system. This change not only benefits the environment, but improves the wellbeing of stylists and clients as their exposure to toxic chemicals is minimised.

28. Practices that reduce the need for product such as colour or extend life of colour treatments • 1. Use temporary hair-colour e.g. good for festivals: video clip (48sec also in clip 4) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM8rFEFaKHk • 2. Tip to extend life of colour (42sec also in clip 4) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4-TWIY6lLw • 3. How much product to use video clip (1:25mins – pause for Q& A at 45sec): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8N1fdfXYqb0 • 4. Reduce colour fade through hair-care that reduces number of rinses e.g. dry shampoo, shampoo less, leave-in conditioner etc. 10 mini clips showing how can advise clients (10 mins): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HRujY4b8o&index=4&list=PLVpIMBnUZVgtubNngrelAqBXO219ypDvW

29. Global Environmental Problems

30. Palm Oil Palm oil is a vegetable oil and is by far the most popular and efficient product on the market. It is found in many household products, varying from pizza and chocolate to toothpastes and soaps. It is also found in the shampoo that we use at home and in the salon, but unsustainable palm oil is causing significant environmental problems. Today, rainforests are being destroyed at that rate of 300 football fields every hour.

31. Under the Microscope; negative effects of palm oil Deforestation Habitat loss Loss of biodiversity Soil erosion Water pollution Climate change

32. Deforestation Current, unsustainable palm oil plantations require the forest to be cleared. The trees are chopped down and the land is burnt to make way for the growth of palm oil. Malaysia and Indonesia are responsible for over 85% of global palm oil production and the problems created from harvesting palm oil cross over social and environmental issues. In 2014, Indonesia lost over 800,000 hectares of primary forest and had the highest rate of deforestation in the world.

33. Habitat Loss The loss of forest has led to many animals losing their homes. This has pushed many species to the brink of extinction, at risk are; elephants, rhinos, tigers and orang-utans. If orang-utans wander into nearby villages they are seen as pests and are captured. The mother is often killed and the baby is sold on a as pet. If palm oil workers find them on plantations they capture them, kill them or have been known to bury them alive.

34. Video Clips and Useful Links for Palm Oil Information https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-1DQwaauwEPalm oil 2:09 –Illustrates how consumer choices affect palm oil. Greenpeace - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o6WHN4NDTk2:27 - link between palm oil, forest destruction and products. Some global buyers such as Unilever are committed to buying 100% sustainable palm oil, but others are lagging. To find out which shampoos use sustainable palm oil check out the following links http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/buyersguides/healthbeauty/shampoo.aspx

35. What can be done in the hair and beauty industry Choose a shampoo brand that is RSPO certified by checking the ingredients list, if it contains vegetable oil or fat look for indication whether it comes from sustainable sources If you can’t be sure that the product contains sustainable palm oil, opt for a palm oil free product Educate clients about your product choice and why it is important Don't overuse products, use the recommended amount to reduce demand and preserve resources

36. Reducing Waste

37. The Waste HierarchyThe waste hierarchy aims to minimise waste

38. The Benefits of Reducing and Managing Waste Saves resources Saves energy Reduces air pollution Reduces climate change Reduces habitat destruction Reduces deforestation

39. Case study: Aluminium Foil • Extraction involves open cast or strip mining which leaves scars on the landscape • Heavy machinery is involved in the process which disrupts local ecosystems and biodiversity • The process involves habitat destruction, soil erosion and water pollution • Contributes to global warming • Foil takes 400 years minimum to break down • Just 1% of salons recycle their foil

40. Reducing Waste; Recycling • How? Set up recycling bins in convenient places in the salon, label the recycling bins with a list a common salon waste items that can be disposed of, approach the task as a team • Why? Reduces pressure on landfill and saves resources

41. Eco Products

42. Eco-products There are two ways in which a product can be eco-friendly; • The way in which it is used results in less water/energy being used e.g. dry shampoo, leave-in conditioner, cleansing conditioner. • The brand/company is known for its green credentials e.g. it may use recyclable/less packaging, have less toxic ingredients, avoid ingredients that damage the environment, be better for the wellbeing of stylists and clients e.g. palm oil free, ammonia free, PPD free and so on.

43. Eco-products that use less resources • Dry shampoo • Leave-in conditioner • Cleansing conditioner; shampoo & conditioner in one • Eco colour; ammonia free, organic, PPD free • Curlers that don’t require heat e.g. curl-formers • Video (5:30) some examples of eco-products (cleansing conditioner, hair-oils, salt spray, dry shampoo, leave-in conditioner) • https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVpIMBnUZVgvH6qIxE-yudP5F40bcO5J_

44. Green/eco brands and products O'right Kevin.Murphy Organic Colour Systems Aveda Davines Iva Natura Alterna Eufora

45. Dry Shampoo • Dry shampoo is a product that can be used to soak up excess oil at the roots to keep hair looking fresher between washes. • This intervention reduces the frequency of shampooing and need to style hair which saves water, electricity and detergents. Video clips : • Kevin.Murphy (1min): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HorRO2zTZQ0 • Video clip dry shampoo/hairdust (2mins): • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrTlCOKR5cc&index=5&list=PLVpIMBnUZVgvH6qIxE-yudP5F40bcO5J_ • Video clip: advice to client (54sec): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfeKwWuBxa4

46. Dry Shampoo • Eco savings: 8 mins less running shower time will save approx. 1.0 kg CO₂e, 2.17 kWhand 62 litres of water. If we also factor in no blow drying (assume a saving of 5 mins blowdrying) (0.04 kg CO₂e and 0.08 kWh ), this saves a total of 1.04 kg CO₂e and 2.25 kWh. • Good for hair as it doesn’t strip natural oils from scalp, or make brittle through blow drying. • Makes hair easier to style, can give volume. Coloured versions can help to cover grey roots temporarily. • Cost savings: over a year, assuming use dry shampoo once a week, saving one wash/dry cycle and saving 5 mins blowdry. This saves approx. £22.76 for clients. (£16.38 energy + £6.38water), and saves 11.27 hours of time a year. • Time saving: Takes less than a minute. How long does your normal wash and dry take? • Convenience: can do anywhere, good when no access to water e.g. festivals, camping. • Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits.

47. Leave-in conditioner Leave-in conditioner can be used in place of a regular conditioner. Clients may find that their hair is easier to style and doesn't become greasy as quickly. • Using a leave-in conditioner can save water and electricity as the need to apply and rinse regular conditioner is eliminated. Video clips: • Video clip: leave-in conditioner product tip (48sec): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7ycSesQcBU • Video clip: hair oils product tip (36sec): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg4w4kn7bgE • Video clip: advice to client (1:13): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IMIF5TXLUg • http://kevinmurphy.com.au/video/un-tangled/ http://macadamiahair.com/our-products/nourishing-leave-in-cream.html#.VdNb7flVikr

48. Leave-in conditioner • Eco savings: 2minutes less shower time will save approx. 0.25 kg CO₂e and 0.54 kWh, and 15.5 litres of water • Good for many kinds of hair as can provide extra volume. • Cost savings: over a year, assuming wash hair 3 times a week, this saves approx. £16.63 (£11.84 energy + £4.79 water) for clients a year – assuming energy =14.05p per kWh, and water = 0.198p per litre. • Time saving: Using leave-in conditioner instead washing out conditioner saves about 1-5 minutes depending on length/type of hair. • Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits.

49. Cleansing Conditioner/Co-washing • Cleansing conditioners cleanse hair and remove dirt gently without stripping it. They do not contain sulphates and therefore do not lather or strip the hair and scalp of natural oils like regular shampoo. • They eliminate the need for conditioner and therefore save water, electricity and detergents. Video clips: • Video clip product tip (43sec) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9qSQPbFP8w • Video clip: advice to client (59 sec): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI3L5G_boF8 • Video clip Biolage (1:58) Biolage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zp7S1XG_2-8

50. Cleansing conditioner/co-washing • Eco savings: 2minutes less shower time will save approx. 0.25 kg CO₂e and 0.54 kWh, and 15.5 litres of water • Good for hair as it doesn’t strip natural oils from scalp • Cost savings: over a year, assuming wash hair 3 times a week, this saves approx. £16.63 (£11.84 energy + £4.79 water) for clients a year – assuming energy =14.05p per kWh, and water = 0.198p per litre. • Time saving: Using cleansing conditioner instead shampoo + conditioner saves about 2-6 mins depending on length/type of hair. • Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits.