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Crampons

Learn about various crampon types, fitting techniques, and using tips to ensure safety and efficiency during mountaineering. Understand the differences in crampon flexibility, attachment methods, and how to avoid common pitfalls like balling and accidents.

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Crampons

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  1. Crampons Ben Ingram

  2. Overview • Introduction • Crampon Types • Fitting Crampons • Using Crampons • Caveats

  3. Introduction • What are crampons? – Metal spike that attach to your feet • What are they good for? – Give traction on ice or steep snow

  4. Crampon Types: Number of Points • Instep crampons (about six points on instep) - Improve traction, but not good for mountaineering • 10 point crampons (no front points) – better traction, but still not good for steep climbs • 12 point crampons (front points) – the standard for mountaineering

  5. Hinged: More comfortable Tiring to front point Use with any boot Rigid: Less comfortable Less tiring to front point Can only be used with rigid boots Crampon Types: Flexibility

  6. Horizontal Front Points: Better in snow and soft ice Less balling Best for general mountaineering Vertical Front Points: Better in hard ice Dangerous balling Crampon Types: Point Orientation

  7. Straps: Work with any boot Harder to put on in cold Step-in: Only work with welted boots Easy to put on Crampon Types: Attachment

  8. Crampon Types: Summary With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point, strap-on crampons like the black crampons with yellow straps or the “old school” crampons With Sorels, only the “old school” crampons fit

  9. Fitting Crampons • Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that fall off cause accidents and slow down the group. • Adjust crampons at home • Adjust length and instep width so that crampon holds boot without straps • Strapping pattern • Test crampon fit • Practice putting on at home, so can put on with gloves or in cold

  10. Crampon Use Two approaches: • Get as many points as possible into ground • Front pointing

  11. Caveats • They’re sharp and put holes in clothing and packs • Balling causes many accidents • Don’t glissade in crampons!

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