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Fabrics. Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02. Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting. Woven Fabrics. Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Plain Weave. Simplest of all weaves Most common Over, under; over, under **broadcloth, gingham, poplin muslin, and many others.
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Fabrics Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02
Woven Fabrics • Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other
Plain Weave • Simplest of all weaves • Most common • Over, under; over, under • **broadcloth, gingham, poplin • muslin, and many others
Twill Weave • Diagonal weave • **denim, gabardine • **firm, heavy weave
Satin Weave • Shiny, reflects light • Smooth and slippery • Frays a lot • **lustrous appearance
Leno Weave • Pairs of threads crossed over • Looks “open” • Fruit bags, mosquito netting
Pile Weave • Raised surface • Loopy or furry • Velvet • Corduroy
Knits • Weft – one yarn • Warp – several yarns • Purl – looks the same on both sides Purl Knit Warp Knit Weft Knit
Weft Knit** • Uses one yarn • **Single knit, ribbed and jersey
Double Knit • 2 yarns and 2 sets of needles • Heavier and sturdier • Doesn’t run or ravel
Ribbed Knit • Vertical ribs on front and back • Neck and wrist bands on sweaters
Jersey Knit • Most common knit • Plain, single knit • T-shirts
Tricot Knit • Very fine vertical wales on the right side • Stable knit – lies flat • Doesn’t run or ravel • Lingerie, underwear • Very fast to weave
Raschel Knit • Uses extra yarn to create a pattern
Non-woven • Leather, lace, felt, disposable fabrics • Heat, moisture • Adhesive, bonding • Yarns and layers
Non-woven • Interlocking fibers • Don’t fray or ravel • Flexible • Might tear easily
Felting • Hot washing and drying wool • Shrinks • Soft and fluffy
Interfacing • Very light to very heavy and stiff • Padding (quilting) • Fusible or sew-in
Fabric Finishes • Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or performance
“Gray Goods” • Before any color or finish is added to the product.
Used to remove impurities in fabric to ensure a “true dye.” Bleaching
Yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting. Good for plaids, checks, and stripes. ** Yarn Dyed
AKA “Stock Dyeing” Natural fibers dyed before spun into yarn Uniform color and good color fastness Fiber Dyed **
Fabric dyed after weaving or knitting Piece Dyed**
Fabric is cut and sewn Entire garment or item is dyed Garment Dyed
Color is transferred to surface of fabric to form a pattern Printing Techniques
Printing pres with circular rollers One for each color Roller
Fast, inexpensive 3500 yards per hour Good for large designs** Rotary Screen
Improves surface feel of fabric Improve comfort and wear ability Texture and Performance Finishes
Raised, Fuzzy Fabric Napping
Extra body and weight Adds Starch Sizing
Weighting • A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it is • Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really is