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J-105 Seminar By Andrew Kerr

J-105 Seminar By Andrew Kerr . By Andrew Kerr. On the Water . Stay close to the RC !! 10 minutes running clock – start at 5 minutes , race at 0 Lots of starts and races – as many as we can. Drills – luffing and accelerating Tacking

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J-105 Seminar By Andrew Kerr

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  1. J-105 Seminar By Andrew Kerr By Andrew Kerr

  2. On the Water • Stay close to the RC !! • 10 minutes running clock – start at 5 minutes , race at 0 • Lots of starts and races – as many as we can. • Drills – luffing and accelerating • Tacking • Leeward mark rounding drill – tactical and speed rounding.

  3. Quick tuning guide

  4. Tuning before the start – set up the critical settings

  5. Base Setting on the shrouds • Caps – 35 • D2’s – 10 • D1’s – 0 ( 10cmm side to side play) • Wind – 9 to 12 knots • LOOS RT 10M Rod tension gauge

  6. Rig tension – light Air • In light air watch the leeward shrouds – if they are taught then the rig is too tight , set it up for the lulls and lots of power

  7. Watch the leeward shrouds – how loose are they ? How much forestay sag ?

  8. Key Elements upwind – Mainsail trim • At the start- set up for power, note the 3 baton positions on mainsail across the range of conditions – Open, closed, open again. • Light Air Upwind : • Set up the sail for twist - ventilate the leech – have a fast mark on the mainsheet. • Ease the Mainsail halyard to open the top of the sail

  9. Set up for power off the line

  10. Key Elements upwind in light air - Genoa/ Jib Trim • Soft Jib Halyard – keep evaluating. • Halyard tension effects the leech profile – reevaluate on each adjustment • Ease in the Lifts to help the speed and gain the lift

  11. Upwind Light/ medium air set up in chop/ swell – some sag for power.

  12. Trim the sails together, ease and squeeze .

  13. Roll tack the boat – but be sure not to pre roll as it unloads the boat.

  14. Roll tacking

  15. Speed build out of tacks with both leeches open and then closed as up to speed.

  16. Medium air

  17. Medium Air Trim • If smooth water Trim the mainsheet on so the top baton is parallel to the boom or 2 to 3 degrees to weather for pointing. • Set up for the lulls not the puffs – set the rig up half a setting looser than the tuning guide.

  18. Medium air Trim • If there is too much forestay sag the mainsail will luff early – backstay on or tighten the forestay and/ or shrouds. • Play the backstay like a throttle for power – be sure to set it from the premise of max hiking on the rail

  19. Medium Air Trim

  20. Medium air trim & sailing flat

  21. Mainsail trim in medium air – flat water

  22. Medium air trim – flat water

  23. Contrast in Mainsail leech tensions – which looks best ?

  24. Headsail trim – Medium air – flat water- Halyard tension effects leech profile .

  25. Heavy air Trim

  26. Heavy air Trim • Max outhaul • Max Backstay • Tight Cunningham • Rigid forestay • Tight vang – “ Vang sheeting” • Traveler down • Very tight Jib halyard for draft forward shape • Jib leads aft a small amount • Ease headsail in gusts in tandem with mainsail to keep the slot consistent.

  27. Minimum Forestay sag

  28. Heavy air Trim • Play the traveller to keep the boat at a constant angle of heel • If the traveller becomes exhausted as a vehicle of balance, or the gusts are coming in very quickly or you have a short traveller consider Vang Sheeting .

  29. Heavy air mantra – constant angle of heel.

  30. Twist !

  31. Heavy air Trim with the Jib • Be sure to not over sheet it and ease it slightly in the gusts to keep the slot consistent and the boat tracking • Make sure the halyard is really tight so that you can ease the sheet and still maintain the leech profile

  32. Heavy air trim – Move weight aft.

  33. Out hike the other teams !

  34. Hiking

  35. Starting pictures

  36. Weather Mark rounding

  37. Rounding the weather mark • Be smooth – keep weight on the rail as long as you can • Ease the Vang slightly prior to the rounding • Be sure to ease the main out fluidly and quickly to help the bear away

  38. Sailing to an offset mark • Sail the boat well between the marks • Sight the offset mark – where is it, how far and what angle ? Can we set the spinnaker? Do we have to beat to it? ( left shift)

  39. On the set • Key element – flatten the boat with weight on the rail as soon as you can – powers up the leeches of both the mainsail and the spinnaker !

  40. Downwind Trim Have the tack line set to a fast Mark • Have the Vang set to a fast mark • Assume the right angle as soon as possible – the trimmer should immediately be talking to the skipper about pressure on the sheet

  41. Assume the correct angle immediately – the trimmer should be talking pressure on the sheet all the time

  42. Downwind trim – Key elements • Working crew weight – flattening in the puffs • Playing the vang & watching the top baton carefully – 3 modes : • Low mode – top baton open 3 to 5 degrees • Average – parallel to the boom • Rolling – enough o stop rolling

  43. If overpowered on a reach- weight aft, go with a bigger curl on the luff , play the vang and leave the backstay on.

  44. Downwind weight placement • Make sure the crew is distributed low and to the sides so the boat steers itself. • Particularly in light air get as many crew out of the cockpit to reduce drag in the stern and reduce wetted surface • In marginal conditions – big puffs and lulls – make sure the crew is moving fore and aft so the stern doesn't sink in the lulls or the bow is buried in puffs.

  45. Downwind – heel to weather

  46. Heavy air trim & technique

  47. Heavy air downwind • Over sheet the spinnaker to prevent rolling Tack line down all the way to open the leech • Make sure there is enough vang on to stop rolling • Steer under the spinnaker center seam to keep the boat upright

  48. Heavy air downwind

  49. Ease the……… !!

  50. Weather takedown – weather heel

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