My Circumnavigation

1. John Bouma 8 Nov 2016 - 29 April 2018 My Circumnavigation 27102 miles of Stories A friend did it at 64 – so hey – I can do it

2. Past Experience • Continual boat ownership since 1975 • 21 years in the Navy • First sailed in 1974 • Past boats (in order owned) • 16 ft ski boat • 18 ft sail (Windrose) • 38 ft sail (C&C) (20 yrs) • 45 ft Power (Carver) 12 yrs • 28 ftsail (Spirit) • 32 ftsail (Pearson) • Current 51 ft sail • Annual sails to Bermuda on my Pearson 32 • Almost rolled 120 miles offshore => decision to get a bigger boat • Bi-annual trips to the Caribbean • Summers sailing in New England

3. The Boat – ¾ Time1996 Little Harbor 51It’s too big, smaller preferred 51000 Lb displacement 16 ft beam 6 ft draft (13.6 w/board down) 72 ft mast 200 gallons fuel 400 gallons of water 6KW generator In-boom furling system Electric winches 98 hours on a new engine 160 hpYanmar (replaced a 105 hp) Constructed of vinylester vice polyester Only 4 of these were ever built

4. My Track https://share/garmin.com/johnbouma (updated every 20 minutes)

5. Preparations (partial list) – major upgrade in a short time • All new electronics (about $30,000) – radar, AIS, VHF, wind instruments, data convertors, networking, all duplicated at the helm and in pilothouse • A new radio mast at the stern for the AIS and a spare VHF antenna mount • used Delorme (now Garmin) system for communications (~160,000 email) • All new rotating equipment (Air conditioning, all pumps etc) • LOTS of Spare equipment (belts, filters, manuals, lights) • Had the shortwave refurbished / tuned (didn’t use it) • Global charts (multiple copies - all digital – no paper) • Cockpit grating shifted from teak to Starboard • Shifted to LED lighting – (went from 35 amps to 4 amps) • New hydraulic seals in AutoPilot • Completely revamped the bilge pump system • Replaced the injectors on the generator • Replaced generator glow plugs • Replaced ‘voltage’ capacitors on the generator • Replaced “Y” valves • New sails (main and jib) • Replaced the inverter

6. Preparations (continued) • New anchor washdown system • Fixed the manual bilge pump (installed backwards) • Revised the holding tank pumpout system • Replaced electric winch gearbox • New windex • Rebuilt both heads • Hydraulic Vang refurbished • New 90 lb Manson anchor • Replaced 300 ft of chain • Solar panels (I learned a lot) • shout-out to Norva Plastics for their work • New mast furling control panel • New Dinghy • New running rigging • Had no EPIRB onboard (‘old’ technology?) • New Microwave • Sooooo much food – and it wasn’t needed • All new belts on the engine / generator • Replaced helm with a folding wheel

7. Mechanical / Electrical Problems (partial list) • Gearbox for Electric winch (in Jamaica) • Boom broke near Panama, permanent fix in Hawaii • Stern light failed nearing Hawaii • Spreader lights failed prior to Hawaii (spare onboard) • Engine hour meter (replaced – and updated hours) • Bilge and grey water float switches • Alternator pulley in South Africa • Almost lost the mast off Madagascar and again off SA • VHF radio while crossing the Indian Ocean (cable connection) • Autopilot near Reunion (replaced with new) • Oil cooler fouling in Mauritius (had oil in water in “V-Drive”) • Boom Vang while crossing the Indian Ocean (fixed in Mauritius) • Clogged sea-chests (several) - Indonesia waters are very polluted • Engine seawater hoses replaced in Mauritius • Seawater hoses for the head replumbed in mauritius • Chart plotter failed (twice) Marshall islands and Grenada • Radar replaced in Capetown • Fire in the Generator 4 days out of Hawaii • Both refrigeration systems failed • Fresh water system pump belt (spares onboard) • Hot water heater element (spare onboard) • Anchor windlass (human error) • Voyage repairs were required at almost EVERY port but reliability increased throughout the trip

8. Dangers encountered • *IMPORTANT* - any noise can kill you • Approached a Hurricane near Panama • Nearly lost the mast (twice) • Pirates in Indonesia (3 times) • 20 ft seas (5 days) in the Indian Ocean • Robbed in Reunion (I wasn’t onboard) • Going up the mast alone in Madagascar • Boat “Invasion” on the 2nd day in Mauritius • Fire in the Generator 4 days out of Hawaii • Unmarked buoys and fish nets in Indonesia • Sailing solo, avoiding fatigue, especially nearing landfall • Landfall without line handlers • Physical danger while ashore (alone)

9. Customs / Immigration • Noonsite.com => they’re invaluable • Can only enter / exit at a “port of entry” • Bali required Health log (fixed by $$$) • You WANT to fly the quarantine flag • Singapore requires AIS, and other flags • It’s a big deal to have the “Zarpa” • Weapons universally rejected • Could have gone to Jail in Mexico • Overall relatively easy, but very time consuming • Biggest issue was the location of the offices • Was queried about my entry into Reunion and Madagascar • Muslims don’t like alcohol – bribed officials with vodka • South Africa alert for Plague from Madagascar (hand-wave) • Panama was worst. Had to bribe in, and out • The checkout process differs with every country • St Helena required Health Insurance • Customs in NC knew where I’d been • Lots of copies of sailing list and Documentation • Marinas required proof of insurance

10. High Points (so many) • Warm weather (lived in shorts for 2 years) • Wonderful people everywhere • Best part of the trip =>South Africa (almost missed it) • Transiting the Panama Canal • Rounding the Cape of Good Hope • Sailing under the Southern Cross • Return home to friends • Days at sea, the freedom, and solitude • Food (so good) • Beautiful scenery

11. Interesting observations • Birds are everywhere • Removed well over 1000 flying fish from the deck • 76 squid flying onboard in a 1 second period • Caught a bird on the foredeck by hand • I had way too much food onboard • Sailing with a full moon – living large at sea • Needing 2 reefs sailing downwind in 9 kts (soooo slow). I’d never have guessed it. (more on that) • The necessity to remove ALL slack in rod rigging • The camaraderie of fellow cruisers • So much poverty in Indonesia, Mauritius, and Madagascar • Very few fuel docks …. Most refueling done by jerry cans • Many cruisers just never move on … they find a spot and stay

12. Reefed in light winds? Here’s why 20 20 Backwinded Result : partial gybe “masthead gybe” Eliminate the “masthead gybe” 8 17 17 8 wind 14 14 8 11 The Jib is subject to the same issue 11 8 8 8 8

13. Navigation • www.noonsite.com – the cruisers bible • I had 6 independent GPS systems • I had no paper charts – all electronic (2 copies of the entire world) • Ran aground entering Morotai (Indonesia) Slightly tapped a sandy bottom due to relocated navaids • Red, right, return … nope – not the case • Was “sliding” south into South Africa at a 45 degree angle most of the way from Madagascar • Poor planning could result in being unable to reach the port you were heading for • Encountered currents almost daily • Maximum speed - 19.4 kts • BTW – no insurance • Longest time at sea was 35 days • Many yachts ran aground in Bali • Needed a “Bingo Field” 3 times

14. Navigating around the Cape • Strong currents approaching South Africa were too much for the autopilot to accommodate in ‘track’ mode • Was sailing 45 degrees off course to maintain track (Autopilot will only accommodate 30 degrees) • Weather was a BIG deal for the entire trip. Good friend provided WX information throughout. • See some very inexperienced sailors • Gale force winds are the norm around the cape • You plan your departures based on time to get to the next port • Big seas, and big current • The “fleet” all departs as one, then rejoin at the next port • Half of the fleet was dragging anchor in East London

15. Food / Eating • Never missed a meal due to seastate. • Another friend ate ashore 2 times in 3 yrs • ‘American’ food always available • Maintained WAY too much food onboard • Not always easy to find US propane fittings • 2 meals a day • South Africa – WOW!! • Alcohol …. Yepper sometimes lots • Enough water onboard that I neverhad to shift water tanks underway • Tossed the plates overboard • Fresh milk in South Africa was a godsend

16. Solo Sailing Routine • Little sleep at night – more during the day • Later in the voyage slept more at night • 90 minutes between wakeups from 9PM – 6 AM but was usually still awake • I was ALWAYS attached when out of the cockpit • 30 minute timer when approaching high traffic areas • Would look at wind, AIS, Chart, and Cross Track Error, then could go back to sleep • Always had dinner fully cleaned up, prior to sunset • One, maybe 2 beer per day unless with a crew • Crossing the Atlantic - 17 days without seeing anyone • Was never lonely, and seldom bored • Lots of reading and Sudoku • Shifted Time zones based on sunrise • Longest underway – 35 days (translant) • Always slept in the pilothouse • Friend knocked unconcious, fell intohis dinghy

17. It was never a piece of cake • Had SEVERAL stints of high winds • Rarely sailed with all sails – reefed 90+% of the time • Had 5 days of 20 ft seas while crossing the Indian Ocean • Routinuely tossed out of bed, waking up airborne • Slept in the pilothouse underway • Most of the trip was beam winds to downwind – maybe 10 days of sailing to windward • 50 Kt winds, on the nose pulling into Capetown • Max speed was 19.4 kts in 40 kt winds off South Africa (40 kts two other times off Hattaras) • Acquainted with multiple tragedies on the trip. • Lightning wreaked havoc on other cruisers. • Met several sailors who’d lost their boats and who’d lost their masts. • Caution, intelligence, being handy, and being aware is critical • Swells go under you – rollers go THROUGH you

18. Generic thoughts • Used Ulman sails in Capetown for repairs • Smaller boat would be good • Pilothouse was sooooo nice • Internet capability (std email) would be nice • Refrigeration not needed • I was always tied on when on deck • Need lee-cloths in the pilothouse • Should have had a spare alternator • Should have had a spinnaker • Only need for crew is for linehandling • I missed fresh milk and sushi • Never listened to the stereo, watched less than 10 movies • ALWAYS had a preventer rigged • Ships “never” communicate between each other (was hailed 2 times) • Southern cross ….. I looked for it every night • Weather was MUCH warmer in the Pacific than the Atlantic • Things can be very cheap • $10K for all new rigging • $350 for new seat cushions • $75 for a stack pack • $500 for a new interior • There was no language barrier (closest was reunion) • Very disappointed in Indonesia (dirty – but cheap) • So much poverty • People – gorgeous women in Mauritius

19. People • Amazing reception everywhere • Learn to speak via songs • Never a language barrier • Muslim interaction • Best looking women - in Mauritius • Invited into several homes • I always spoke to the locals • Globally known as “yachtie” • Zulus think you need to be sick • Interesting beach routine in SA

20. Panama and the Canal • Smelled like jungle on arrival • Rife with corruption • Waited 2 weeks for parts • Very hot • Transit process is pretty easy • Privileged to do the transit • Met a submarine going through – they knew me

21. South Africa • 3 months in SA, best part of the entire trip (almost missed it) • The food is amazing • Beautiful countryside • Strange customs • Great people • My wife met me after 14 months away from home • Must pay VERY close attention to the weather • Xmas and New Year in Richards Bay • Departed after Visa expired • Kicked the crew off – crazy guy

22. South Africa (cont.) • The local craftsmanship is very impressive • Theft is a HUGE thing – they steal phone lines to weave baskets • Land ownership is in turmoil – huge disparity between cities and rural areas • Met so many sailors from previous ports • My goal is to get back there. • Capetown – HIGHLY recommended • Met a father son team from FL on a 25 footer.

23. St Helena • Beautiful island – famous for Napoleon, and the oldest living animal • Almost didn’t stop there • Anchor field is new • Medical insurance was required • Interesting going ashore • Soooo isolated • Swimming withwhale sharks • Quaint place • They have their own money

24. Homecoming 29 April ‘18 • 3 Emotional events - homecoming was one of them • Cleared Customs in North Carolina vice Norfolk • Close friend joined me in NC for the ride home. • The Yanmar was making home turns from NC • Lots of people waiting for me on the pier • Back to cold weather 

25. Wrap-up • What’s next • Lots of refurb • New refrigeration • Redid the bright work • New bimini • More solar panels(shift from 250 to ~700 watts) • Paint (hull and bottom) • This summer • the Bay • Bermuda • Next winter in the Caribbean • Please contact me if you have any questions • johnbouma@yahoo.com • 757 285 0064