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Waves

Waves. Anatomy of wave Wave- transmission of energy through matter Longitudinal wave- matter oscillates in same direction of energy transmission Transverse wave- matter oscillates perpendicular to direction of energy transmission

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Waves

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  1. Waves

  2. Anatomy of wave • Wave- transmission of energy through matter • Longitudinal wave- matter oscillates in same direction of energy transmission • Transverse wave- matter oscillates perpendicular to direction of energy transmission • Orbital wave- matter oscillates in a circular path as energy passes (ocean waves!)

  3. Anatomy of wave • H:L - ration of wave height to wave length • Speed = wavelength/ period

  4. Wave causes • Disturbing force- cause waves • Restoring force- resist waves

  5. Wave characteristics • Deepwater waves – occur in water that is deeper than half their wavelength; bottom does not affect the wave • Transitional waves- occur when depth is between ½ and 1/20 the wavelength • Shallow water waves- occur when depth is less than 1/20 the wavelength; bottom affects wave

  6. Wave size affected by: • Wind speed • Wind duration • Fetch- surface area over which wind blows

  7. Surf and breaking waves • Why do waves break? • Transitional waves slow down because of bottom; shortens wavelength causing wave height to increase • When wave’s H:L ratio passes 1:7 , the crest is moving faster than trough; causes wave to break with the crest toppling forward

  8. Types of Breakers • Spilling Breaker- top of wave tumbles and slides down front of wave; gently sloped beaches • Plunging breaker- curled on top; moderately steep beaches • Surging Breaker- surges unbroken (destructive), steep wall- like beaches

  9. Wave interactions • Refraction- bending of waves as they approach shore • Diffraction- when waves pass an obstacle, energy shifts forming a new wave pattern • Reflection- wave bounces back when hits obstacle • http://www.tectonics.caltech.edu/outreach/animations/tsunami_youtube.html

  10. Destructive waves • Storm surge- forms when high winds push water against the shore • Tsunami- results from sudden displacement of water caused by landslide, falling iceberg, volcanic eruption or earthquake • Always shallow water waves because wavelength is so long that no ocean is deep enough for them to be deepwater waves • Do not destroy ships because wavelength is so long that ships rise and fall without noticing

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