CHAPTER 1 COASTS Should Coastal Environments Matter?

1. CHAPTER 1 COASTS Should Coastal Environments Matter?

2. CHECK-IN: Surfing a monster wave

3. 1 2 CHECK-IN: Which photograph represents the coastline? Explain your choice. 3 4

4. CHAPTER 1 COASTSShould Coastal Environments Matter? In this Chapter, you will explore three key questions: How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? Why are coastal areas valuable? How can we manage coastal areas in a sustainable manner?

5. KQ 1: How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? • What is a coastal environment? (zones) • What are the differences within coastal environments? • What factors lead to the difference and dynamism in coastal environments? • How do coastal processes differ? • How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently CHAPTER 1 COASTSShould Coastal Environments Matter?

6. a. What is a coastal environment? (zones)

7. KQ 1: How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? • What is a coastal environment? (zones) • What are the differences within coastal environments? • What factors lead to the difference and dynamism in coastal environments? • How do coastal processes differ? • How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently CHAPTER 1 COASTSShould Coastal Environments Matter?

8. b. What is the difference between coastal environment? What are the differences in the characteristics of the following coastal environments? Lulworth Cove, Britain Waikiki Beach, Hawaii Cape Kumukahi, Hawaii Bunaken, Indonesia

9. KQ 1: How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? • What is a coastal environment? (zones) • What are the differences within coastal environments? • What factors lead to the difference and dynamism in coastal environments? • How do coastal processes differ? • How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently CHAPTER 1 COASTSShould Coastal Environments Matter?

10. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? • Waves • Tides and sea level changes • Currents • Geology (rock composition) • Types of ecosystems (e.g. mangroves and coral reefs) • Human activities (e.g. trading, fishing, recreation)

11. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Tombolo

12. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Spit

13. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Beach

14. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Cliffs

15. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? • Waves • Wind energy transferred to water • Blowing across surface of seas and oceans Affects: the power of waves to erode landforms • Tides and sea level changes • Rise/fall in sea level • Caused by gravitational pull of moon and Sun on Earth Affects: transportation of sediments (depositional landforms) and erosion

16. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Wave energy Tide Low tide High tide

17. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? • Currents • Large scale continuous movement of water in seas and oceans • Driven by prevailing wind in one direction Affects: sediment distribution and erosion • Geology (rock composition) • Composition: more/less resistant rocks; hard/soft rock • Composition: layered structure Affects: rate/speed of erosion

18. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Currents Geology

19. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? • Types of ecosystems • Natural barriers • Corals: Slow down speed of waves • Mangroves: trap sediments and reduce coastal erosion Affects: impact of waves on coasts • Human activities • Built-up area along coastline • Pollution of coastal environment Affects: condition of coastal environment

20. c. What factors lead to the differences and dynamism of coastal environments? Mangroves Coral reefs

21. KQ 1: How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? • What is a coastal environment? (zones) • What are the differences within coastal environments? • What factors lead to the difference and dynamism in coastal environments? • How do coastal processes differ? • How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently Chapter 1 COASTSShould Coastal Environments Matter?

22. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave action How would you describe the waves? 2 1 4 3

23. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave action Parts of a wave

24. d. How do coastal processes differ? Why do waves curl? Come up with a hypothesis to suggest how waves go from Photograph A to Photographs B1 & B2. Photograph A Photograph B2 Photograph B1

25. d. How do coastal processes differ? Why do waves curl? • What do the photographs definitely tell me? • What can I infer from the photographs? • What do the photographs not tell me? What further questions do I need to ask? Photograph A Photograph B1 Photograph B2

26. d. How do coastal processes differ? Why do waves curl?

27. d. How do coastal processes differ? Match the diagrams to the factors affecting wave energy 1 A 2 B C 3 D 4

28. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Swash • Backwash • 2 wave types: Constructive & Destructive • Erosion • Transportation • Deposition • Wave refraction

29. d. How do coastal processes differ? Constructive dominant process: swash carries sediments onto beach at an oblique angle) Destructive dominant process: backwash carries sediments away from beach into ocean at a right angle due to gravity) Wave Type NOTE: A Swash and Backwash occurs for every wave that comes onto the shore)

30. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Type

31. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Refraction Wave Action

32. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Refraction (approaching a coast) The process by which waves change direction when they approach a coast Occurs only when there is friction between water and seabed Change in wave speed Waves converge on headlands and diverge on bays When waves converge – increased wave height and greater erosive energy When waves diverge – decreased wave height and lower erosive energy Uneven impact on shoreline Wave Action

33. d. How do coastal processes differ? Coastal Erosion Focus on: Cause (wave action, rock particle movement) & Effect(outcome of wave action with rock particles) Hydraulic action Abrasion or corrasion Attrition Solution or corrosion Wave Action

34. d. How do coastal processes differ?

35. d. How do coastal processes differ?

36. d. How do coastal processes differ? Cliff undercut by coastal abrasion

37. d. How do coastal processes differ? Rocks rounded by attrition

38. d. How do coastal processes differ? Sediment Transport Longshore drift and longshore currents Recap: Currents Large scale movement of waterin oceans Driven by prevailing wind in one direction Affects: sediment distribution and erosion Wave Action

39. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Sediment Transport • Longshore drift and longshore currents

40. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Sediment Transport • Longshore currents and longshore drift • Longshore currents: • Flows parallel to coast, forms when waves approach coasts at an angle • Resultant zigzag movement of sediments known as beach drift: • Carried up the beach at an oblique angle through swash due to wind direction • Carried perpendicularly down the beach through backwash due to gravity

41. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Longshore drift: • A result of both longshore currents and beach drift • Sediments are deposited when they meet an obstruction. These sediments are transported by both longshore current and beach drift, which produces longshore drift. • Determined by direction of wind

42. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Sediment Deposition • What are some reasons for the man being unable to carry the boxes properly? • What should the man do if the boxes are too much and too heavy?

43. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Sediment Deposition • What are some reasons for the wave being unable to carry the sediments? • What should the wave ‘do’ if the sediments are too much and too heavy/large?

44. d. How do coastal processes differ? Wave Action • Sediment Deposition

45. KQ 1: How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? • What is a coastal environment? (zones) • What are the differences within coastal environments? • What factors lead to the difference and dynamism in coastal environments? • How do coastal processes differ? • How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently Chapter 1 COASTSShould Coastal Environments Matter?

46. e. How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently Coastal features/landforms:Process leads to an outcome/characteristic of landform Cliffs and shore platforms Headlands and bays Caves, arches and stacks Beaches Spits and tombolos

47. Coastal features/landforms:process leads to an outcome/characteristic of landform Cliffs and shore platforms e. How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently • Hydraulic action • Erosion by waves • Enlarged joints • Notch • Cliff collapse and cliff retreat • Gently-sloping platform at cliff base

48. Coastal features/landforms:process leads to an outcome/characteristic of landform Headlands and bays e. How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently • Different rates of erosion on rocks of different resistance • Bays (wide indented inlets in the coastline) • Headlands (rocks which extend into sea)

49. Coastal features/landforms:process leads to an outcome/characteristic of landform Arches, stacks and stumps e. How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently • Further erosion of headlands (abrasion and hydraulic action) • ‘Hollowing’ by wave action • Roof of cave collapses • Lines of weaknesses • Cave • Stack (pillar of rock)

50. Coastal features/landforms:process leads to an outcome/characteristic of landform Beaches e. How do coastal processes shape coastal landforms differently • Deposition of different sized particles • Erosion by strong waves • Zone of deposition • Made of loose sand, gravel and pebbles • Gentle gradient (fine grains) • Steep gradient (coarse grains)