Objectives

2. Objectives • After reading this chapter, you should be able to • trace the history of wine production in New York State, as well as that state’s effect on the development of the American wine industry. • identify the major wine regions, their respective climatic conditions, and the styles of wines produced. • describe the unique climatic and geological characteristics of Canada’s major wine regions and the styles of wines produced in each. • understand Canada’s role in the international wine market. • outline the history of wine production in the Eastern, Southwestern, and Mountain regions of the United States. • describe the types of wines made in these states, and the role of these states in the American wine industry. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

3. Introduction • There are currently federally bonded wineries in all 50 states of the United States, as well as in four provinces of Canada. • These regional wines, from areas outside of America’s Pacific West Coast, are of increasing importance in the North American wine industry. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

4. New York State • New York is one of America’s most important wine regions. • New York is ranked secondin production of wine after California. • It is ranked third in nationwide consumption of wine. • The country’s first commercial winery was established in 1839 in New York’s Hudson River Valley. • There are currently 163 wineries in the state, and over 33,000 acres planted to wine grapes. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

5. New York Wine—Historical Perspective • The first wines made in New York by French emigrants in the late seventeenth century were made using indigenous grapes of the family Vitis lambrusca. • The results were less than impressive, so the French settlers imported Vitis vinifera vines from Europe. • These transplanted varietals failed due to the extreme cold and phylloxera. • After the failed efforts with vinifera grapes, small production of wine continued using the Northeast’s native labrusca grapes. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

6. New York Wine—Historical Perspective(continued) • In the early and mid-1800s hybrid grapevines were produced by pollination of vinifera by American species. • These hybrids had the ability to survive the harsh weather and pests and made better wine than the indigenous vines. • These hybrids included Catawba and Isabella. • In the 1850s these new varietals were widely planted along the Hudson River and around the Finger Lakes, by new waves of immigrants. • There was also large scale planting of Concord that was used for grape juice as well as wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

7. New York Wine—Historical Perspective(continued) • Commercial winemaking took off across New York in the late 1800s, and a large wine industry emerged. • Prohibition dealt a severe blow, and many wineries discontinued production. • When Prohibition was repealed in 1933, wine production re-emerged but maintained its emphasis on the native and hybrid grapes that had limited commercial appeal. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

8. New York Wine—Historical Perspective(continued) • Most growers sold their harvested grapes to the two or three large companies that controlled the state’s wine industry. • The industry concentrated on the production of sweet kosher wines from the Concord grape. • Modern wine production got its start in the 1950s when Dr. Konstantine Frank arrived. • A Ukrainian vintner and expert in vinifera grapes, he did extensive research on where cool climate varietals like Riesling and Chardonnay could thrive. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

9. New York Wine—Historical Perspective(continued) • In 1976 the Farm Winery Act was passed. • The act reduced fees for commercial wineries, increased tax benefits for small wineries, and allowed direct sales to consumers and restaurants. • These critical changes made it economically feasible to own and operate a small winery. • Today most of New York’s wineries are of this size, the type of boutique winery at which the emphasis is on quality and innovation. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

10. Wine Regions of New York • The growing season in this large state varies from 180 days in northern, inland areas to up to 230 days in more moderate sections. • The microclimates are strongly influenced by bodies of water such as Lake Erie, the Finger Lakes, and the Hudson River. • Closer to the Atlantic the ocean has a moderating influence on climate. • Among all the various growing conditions throughout New York, four regions have evolved as her premier wine-producing areas. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

11. The Finger Lakes • This region, although not New York’s largest, produces 90 percent of the state’s wine. • Established in 1982, the Finger Lakes AVA has 63 wineries and 10,000 acres of vineyards. • The vineyards of the Finger Lakes are planted to both hybrids and vinifera. • Riesling and Chardonnay do well here, but most of the wines are still made from hybrids and native grapes, like Niagara and Catawba. • Concord is the most-widely planted red varietal. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

12. Lake Erie • Lake Erie provides more climate-moderating influences than the other Great Lakes • The growing season spans from late April to early October. Precipitation is about 35 inches a year. • The Lake Erie AVA, established in 1983, extends into three states: New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio. It has the most acreage in the state, but the majority of vineyards are destined for juice or jelly. • There are only eight wineries in the AVA, using mostly French-American hybrids such as Seyval Blanc. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

13. Hudson River Valley • It is America’s oldest wine region, and wine has been produced continually for over 300 years. • The mesoclimate here is milder than further upstate, allowing vinifera varietals such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc to be grown. • The Hudson river Valley was officially recognized as an AVA in 1982. • The emphasis now is strongly on delicately styled, vinifera-based table wines. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

14. Long Island • This is the newest wine region in New York as well as one of the most promising. • The wine country is at the eastern most section of the island and surrounded on three sides by water, which provides a mild climate for vinifera varietals. • The region has 1,950 acres planted to wine grapes, spread among three AVAs: • The Long Island AVA (approved 2001) • The Hamptons (approved 1985) • The North Fork AVA (1986) • Due to a thriving tourism business (New York City is only 85 miles away), Long Island is the fastest growing wine region in the Eastern United States. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

15. Other Wine Regions in the Eastern United States • Besides New York, other Northeastern states producing promising wines are Connecticut, Rhode Island, and the south-central coast of Massachusetts. • Portions of these three states are included in the regional AVA, Southeastern New England. • Lying near the coast, the ocean moderates temperature extremes, so cold-hardy vinifera varietals as well as French hybrids can be grown. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

16. Virginia • Wine making in Virginia dates back to the Jamestown settlement, where settlers made wine from the wild grape, Scuppernong. • The results were unpalatable. In 1609, French vine cuttings were sent to Jamestown, but the vines did not survive. • Thomas Jefferson, a Virginian and a wine lover, was determined to make his state into a wine region. • He planted several acres of both vinifera and native grapes. • There is no record of wine being produced, as his vines also succumbed to disease and climate. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

17. Virginia (continued) • Virginia’s farmers planted the hybrids that were developed in the late nineteenth century. • At the same time, crosses, new species made by breeding native grapes, were introduced. • These hybrids and crosses were hardy enough to resist the infections, colder temperatures, and pests that felled vinifera vines. • Especially successful in Virginia were the hybrids of Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc, both whites, and MaréchalFoch and Chambourcin, both reds. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

18. Virginia (continued) • Prohibition caused the collapse of Virginia’s wine industry, which did not revive until well into the 1970s. • With an emphasis on quality, vintners expanded their plantings of vinifera grapes in the 1980s. • They are now making very impressive Rieslings, Chardonnays, and Cabernet Francs, along with the more traditional Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, and Norton. • There are now 70 wineries in Virginia, most small and family-owned. • There are six AVAs in the state. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

19. The Western United States • Several regions in the West, especially the Southwest and the Mountain states, are emerging as promising wine-producing regions. • Among the more important are Texas, New Mexico, and Colorado. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

20. Texas • The huge state of Texas is now the seventh largest wine-producing state in the country. • It traces its wine history to the mid-seventeenth century when Spanish missionaries first planted vines. • Wine continued to be produced in Texas on through the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. • Prohibition ended all efforts to produce quality wine in Texas for the next four decades. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

21. Texas (continued) • In the 1970s, the increasing interest in fine wine across the United States inspired several Texas natives to give winemaking a try. • Several grape-growers’ associations were formed to do research and to support efforts at improving local viticulture. • A professor at Texas Tech university, Bob Reed, began in 1976 to conduct experiments in viticulture. • His experiment became Llana Estacado Winery, now the state’s largest winery. • In the early 1980s, the University of Texas began research to determine what varietals did best in Texas’ climate. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

22. Texas (continued) • There are seven AVAs in Texas, stretching from the Texas Panhandle to near the border with Mexico. • The primary influences on terroir are climate and elevation. • Elevations above 3,000 feet produce the highest quality wines due to sunny days, cool nights, and lower humidity. • Here, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Gewürztraminer are the principal white grapes, along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for reds. • At lower elevations, where temperatures are warmer, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Syrah are more common. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

23. Texas (continued) • There are now 106 wineries in Texas. • Many of them are small, family-owned operations, but Texas’ largest winery produces over a half a million cases a year. • Pierce’s disease continues to be a threat in some parts of the state, and the proper regions to plant vinifera vines is still being determined. • Texas has the potential to become a steady producer of high quality vinifera-based wines. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

24. New Mexico • It was Spanish missionary monks who first planted wine grapes in the region, back in 1629, in order to provide themselves with sacramental wine for the daily Mass. • From this humble beginning, New Mexico’s production of wine grew, until by the late 1800s, the state was fifth in the nation in volume. • However, due to Prohibition and natural disaster, New Mexico’s wine industry ceased to exist by the 1940s. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

25. New Mexico (continued) • In 1980, a contingent of French vintners visited New Mexico and recognized the tremendous potential for viticulture in the central part of the state. • Here plateaus at an average elevation of 4,000 provided the ideal combination of sunny days and cool evenings. • The French vintners planted 3,000 acres of vinifera vines in three locations; the project was allowed to peter out when market response was limited. • In 1984, the French arrived again when Gruet family bought a few acres, planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and built a winery to produce sparkling wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

26. New Mexico (continued) • Today, Gruet is one of New Mexico’s largest wine producers, making 55,000 cases a year of sparkling wine made in the Champagne method. • The New Mexico wine industry continues to grow. There are now three AVAs and over 500 acres of vineyards. • There are about 40 wineries, most very small. • The only large enterprise besides Gruet is also French-owned: St. Clair Winery, producing 50,000 cases a year of varietally named table wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

27. Colorado • Winemakers high in the Rocky Mountains face challenges that those at sea level cannot even imagine: everything from deep winter snow, to spring frosts, and summer drought. • In 1990, there were no producing wineries in the state. • In 2005, there were 62 wineries and 750 acres of vineyards in Colorado, most of them on the western slope of the Rockies. • Many wineries, especially in higher elevations, concentrate on cool-climate vinifera varietals. • Riesling is the most promising grape; however, Merlot is still the most widely-planted. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

28. Canada • There are four provinces producing wine in Canada, but the major wine regions are in two provinces: Ontario and British Columbia. • Because these two provinces are a continent apart, the wines they make are very different. • Ontario’s vineyards lie mostly on the Niagara Peninsula, north of New York State. The climate here is very similar to that of New York’s Finger Lakes. • British Columbia is on Canada’s West Coast, and its terroir closely resembles that of Washington State’s Columbia Valley. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

29. Canadian Wine—Historical Perspective • Winemaking in Canada can be traced to the early 1800s, when a German immigrant named Johann Schiller planted a small vineyard to native labrusca vines west of Toronto. • By 1890, there were 41 wineries throughout Canada. • Prohibition began in Canada in 1916, four years earlier than in the United States. • Prohibition lasted only a few years in Canada and was repealed in 1927. • In the ensuing decades, most wines made in Canada were of the slightly sweet, highly alcoholic style, and were made from labrusca grapes. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

30. Canadian Wine—Historical Perspective(continued) • In the mid-1970s the modern industry in Canada began to develop. • At this time the taste in wines across North America was switching away from sweet and fortified wines to dry, balanced table wines. • As the demand for this style of wine increased, so did the determination of Canadian vintners to make better, more sophisticated wines. • In 1988, a country-wide appellation system, Vintners Quality Alliance, was introduced, originally in Ontario and shortly thereafter in British Columbia. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

31. Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) • The VQA seal on a bottle’s label signifies that the wine has been tested and meets a series of standards set by a board of local vintners, grape growers, and wine experts. • The VQA also controls the use of appellations or DVAs (designated viticultural areas). • The law stipulates that wines carrying the seal are made at least 95 percent from locally grown grapes. Only vinifera grapes are allowed. • If a varietal name is given to the wine, 85 percent of the wine must be made from that varietal. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

32. Wine Regions • Wine is produced in four Canadian provinces: Nova Scotia, Quebec, British Columbia, and Ontario. • The amounts made in the first two are not commercially significant. • In Quebec wineries are making small amounts of hybrid-based wines for tourists. • Nova Scotia’s three wineries are likewise dependent on tourism. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

33. British Columbia • British Columbia currently has 5,462 acres planted to grape vines and much room for expansion. • Most acreage is planted to vinifera due to the fact that in the 1980s the provincial government offered a financial incentive to growers to plant vinifera. • The most widely planted varietals are Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Gris. • The wine industry is spread among four distinct regions: • Okanagan Valley • Similkameen Valley • Vancouver Island • Fraser Valley © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

34. Okanagan Valley • Most of British Columbia’s wine comes from the Okanagan Valley, which extends for 100 miles in the south-central part of the province. • The valley receives minimal rainfall; summers are hot; irrigation is necessary. • Long sunny days, controlled water, and cool nights, along with loamy-sandy soil, allow vintners to bring their crops to perfect ripeness, with acidity still intact. • It is also a reliable producer of Canada’s most famous wine—ice wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

35. British Columbia • Although British Columbia’s wines are now sold in several European countries and a dozen U.S. states, fully 90 percent of its production is still sold within the province. • Owners of many of the province’s 97 wineries are working closely with the provincial government to create international market demand for their products. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

36. Ontario • Being far inland, Ontario has a totally continental climate. • Artic air ensures a short growing season and very cold winters. Without the moderating influences of two Great Lakes—Ontario and Erie—the province would be too cold for any viticulture. • Fortunately, the deep lakes warm the region enough to make the growing of certain cold-hardy varieties possible. • Most of Ontario’s vineyards are clustered along the Niagara Peninsula. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

37. Ontario (continued) • Ontario is Canada’s largest producer, accounting for about 75 percent of the country’s wine. • The VQA board in Ontario has approved three DVAs: • Niagara Shore • Lake Erie North Shore • Pelée Island © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

38. Ontario (continued) • Although some table wines are made from vinifera grapes, such as Chardonnay and Riesling, many vineyards in all three DVAs are still planted to hybrids, predominantly Vidal Blanc and Maréchal Foch. • Despite the DVAs’ progress with table wines, the undisputed star in Ontario is ice wine, usually made from Vidal Blanc that has frozen on the vine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

39. Summary • Producers of regional wines in North America are at a critical crossroads. • Many wineries in regions like New York State, or in Canada’s British Columbia and Ontario, have achieved success in selling their wines locally, usually within a tourism-oriented economy. • At this time, as grape growing and winemaking in these areas continues to improve, the question is whether regional wines will move beyond being tourism curiosities. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

40. Summary (continued) • Success will depend on finding the right varietal and being sure that the grape can thrive under the natural conditions of the region. • It is important to create a quality product that is unique to one’s region, such as ice- wine from the Niagara Peninsula and Gruet’s sparkling wine from New Mexico. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.

41. Summary (continued) • Aggressive promotional efforts done in conjunction with other wineries and quasi-governmental agencies greatly heightens consumer awareness of regional wines. • Over the next few decades, more of North America’s regional wines will complete the processes of viticultural winnowing and strategic marketing to take their places in the international business of wine. © 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.