Fabric Construction

1. Fabric Construction Fashion Design, Textiles & Merchandising Mrs. Moscinski

2. Fabric Construction

3. Blended Yarns, Threads & Fabrics • Blends were created to utilize the positive characteristics of each fiber • Different fibers that have been combined into one fabric, usually one natural and one synthetic • EXAMPLE: polyester/cotton blend- the original cotton characteristics are improved and the fabric becomes more wrinkle resistant, stronger, and mildew resistant

4. Wovens • A woven fabric consists of warp and weft yarns • Weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right angles to make a fabric • Strong and easy to sew on • Suggested for beginners to use

5. Grain (Line) • Selvage - parallel to lengthwise grain; the tightly woven edges of the fabric • Lengthwise - parallel to the selvage; stronger threads (warp threads) • Crosswise - at right angle to the lengthwise threads; perpendicular to the selvage (weft threads) • Bias - diagonal angle; runs at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge; provides stretch

7. Woven fabric is more elastic as well as more fluid in the bias direction, compared to the on-grain direction. • This property facilitates garments and garment details that require extra elasticity or drapability or flexibility, such as bias-cut skirts and dresses, neckties, piping trims and decorations, bound seams, etc.

8. Plain Weave • Characteristics of Plain Weave • It is snag resistant. • It wrinkles. • It has lower tear strength. • Examples • Chiffon • Taffeta • Organza

9. Twill Weave • Characteristics of Twill Weave • It is durable and heavier. • It is wrinkle resistant. • It is resistant to showing soil and soiling. • It is more pliable drape and hand than plain weave • Examples of Twill Weave • Gabardine • Herringbone • Denim

10. Satin Weave • Characteristics of Satin Weave • It is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface. • The surface slides easily for linings. • Snags easily • Examples of Satin Weave • Satin

11. Knit Fabrics • Knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into a series of interlocking loops to make a fabric • Knits provide stretch • Knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will not fray • Single knit fabric curls to the right side when stretched • Interlock knit is thicker

12. Knit Fabrics • Firm, stable knits. These stretch very little and are handled similarly to woven fabrics. These include double knits and Raschel knits, a novelty knit recognized by lacy, stable construction. • Lightweight single knits. They have lengthwise ribs on the right side, horizontal rows on the reverse side and moderate stretch. Examples are jerseys and tricot knits. • Interlock knits.These are lightweight, drapable and have a fair amount of crosswise stretch. They do not curl at the edges, but can run on the crosswise edge. Interlock knits are heavier, thicker, and easier to sew than jersey knits. • Textured knits.These may be single or double knits. Examples include knitted terry and velour, sweater knits, and sweatshirt fleece. These knits have moderate to good stretch except sweatshirt fleece which has little or no stretch. • Two-way stretch knits. They stretch in both length and width and have a high percentage of resilient spandex fibers. These knits are usually selected for active sportswear. • Ribbing.This is a stretchy knit used for stretch trims at wrists, ankles, neck and waist. It is available in tubular ribbing and in rib trim.

13. Non-Woven/ Felting • Made when fibers are pressed together using heat and moisture • Examples include: felt and nonwoven interfacing

14. Nap • Short fibers that create texture on fabric • Use a nap layout • Treat the same way as a one-way directional fabric • Ex: Velvet