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Surfing. Chandler Kania Honors English IV Mrs. Saunders 9 January 2013. Why Surfing?. Raised on beach Vacations Interested in new things Adrenaline rush. Uniqueness . Surfing has no written rules. Unwritten yet followed: If crowded, priority goes to whoever is first on their feet.
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Surfing Chandler Kania Honors English IV Mrs. Saunders 9 January 2013
Why Surfing? • Raised on beach Vacations • Interested in new things • Adrenaline rush
Uniqueness • Surfing has no written rules. • Unwritten yet followed: • If crowded, priority goes to whoever is first on their feet. • Don’t drop in if already occupied.
Origin of Surfing • Native fishermen in Western Polynesia • Exercise done by chiefs and leaders • Relaxation considered by middleclass • Affluent members of society competed in tournaments
The Sport’s Popularity • Started off limited • Reasons: • Only native Hawaiians could surf • Physical demand • Locations suitable for surfing • Spiritually capability • 1915 popularity spread to Australia • Surfing in harsher conditions • Wetsuit created by Jack O’Neil • Spark in America • Publicity through movies and magazines • ISA created in 1960
Surfboard Evolution • The Olo • Chiefs and noblemen • The Alaia • Commoners • Changes • Size • Shape • Fins • Construction materials
Surfboard Evolutionists • Tom Blake • Hollow Board • Fixed Fins • Wally Froiseth, John Kelly and Fran Heath • Hot Curl Board • George Downing • Gun Surfboard • Pete Peterson • Fiberglass Surfboard
Surfboard Materials • Materials • Balsa Wood • Redwood • Redwood + Balsa Wood • Fiberglass • Plastics • Styrofoam • Size • Long board (11ft+up) • Short board (6-10ft) • Leash • Pat O’Neill
How to Surf • Necessities: • Surfboard • Leash • Swim trunks • Location • Wax • Get comfortable with the ocean • Paddle to desired depth • Find suitable wave and paddle towards shore • Once on wave pop up and maintain balance
Wipeouts • Avoid the board • Take a deep breath • Close eyes above water, open once emerged • Stay on board to signal for help
What Did I Learn? • Safety is a priority • Time management is key • Surfing is a lot of fun
My Mentor • Douglas Evans • Alumni of UNCW • Surf instructor
Obstacles • Busted mouth • Scheduling • Mentor accessibility
Closing • Questions • Thank you for your time!