Perm & neutralising hair Unit 208

1. Perm & neutralising hairUnit 208 Aim: to enable learners to understand perming Knowledge Outcomes: Learners will be able to: 1 Identify faults within the perming process and Write their remedies. 2 list consultation and preparation methods.

2. Storing Handling Disposing Manufacturers instructions In a cabinet out of direct sunlight & heat With gloves –safe mixing area-replace lids Use plenty of water to flush away Always follow precisely C.O.S.H.H S H U D

3. Is required by law and it is a legislation in industry Protects us because Chemicals can cause dermatitis and skin irritation We want a long careers so you must always wear Gloves apron & hand cream, with every perming service P.P.E.Personal Protective Equipment

4. A contract between us & the client For future reference What the client wants Tight or loose Is the cut right Products to use at home When to return to the salon Indemnity form Record card Finished effect Curl size Cutting Aftercare Maintenance Visual aids effective body language Consultation In pairs discuss why these are important: • During consultation photographs can be used to accurately and consistently describe different looks, please add to your style book • Eye contact, listening, repeating Q&A to confirm outcome

5. Preparation • Are there areas of broken skin or abnormalities on the skin or hair? • Incompatibility testthis checks whether chemicals already on the hair are compatible with the perming products to be used. A positive reaction to this test means that the hair cannot be permed, as the hair is likely to break and the scalp burnt. In pairs use your theory books to find out how this test is carried out?

6. Consultation and preparation • Contra-indications to perming are: • damaged/weak hair • other known allergies • incompatible products on the hair • infectious conditions or infestations • recent or current conditions or medication • allergic reactions to perm lotion or neutraliser • skin sensitivities or disorders (including cuts and sores on the scalp). • Always use a gown towel and plastic cape for client • Apply barrier cream around the hairline, to help prevent the perm lotion irritating the skin. • Do not allow the barrier cream to get on to the hair, as this will cause a barrier between the perm lotion and the hair. • Place a strip of cotton wool around the hairline over the barrier cream to further protect your client’s skin and eyes from dripping perm lotion (this can be slightly dampened with water).

7. The hair must be free from all dirt, grease and products, why? Because they will form barrier which will stop chemicals entering the cortex We prepare the hair by shampooing with a soap less shampoo to remove silicones, clarifying Porous hair may require a pre-porosity spray, which is designed to even out the porosity prior to a chemical service, allowing an the perm lotion to evenly penetrate the hair. Pre-treatment conditioners should be applied to porous hair, before sectioning or winding. Preparing the hair

8. Good practice For future reference For protection of the client / salon For legal reasons Client history/allergies Other staff/next visit If the client complains/has a poor treatment If the client sues Recording your results Why is this important

9. Under processing The perm lotion has not been given time to develop Development test not taken properly The lotion is not strong enough Remember the lotion needs enough time to break the sulphur bonds Test more than one rod at intervals during development Wrong lotion for hair type Fault finder In pairs or small groups complete the fault finder pages

10. Curl too loose Curl too tight Wrong size rod chosen Short hair will need to be wound around the rod at least 3 times The rod used was too small for the length of the hair The hair becomes un manageable and the condition feels dry Fault finder

11. Over processing Timing of development not checked carefully Lotion too strong Salon too warm Check development bout half way through and then every few minutes Wrong lotion or hair type Warmth will speed up the development Fault finder

12. Frizzy or fish hook ends The ends of the hair have been buckled because the paper has not been wound first or not put right to the ends of the hair Roller too small Perm lotion left on too long Fault finder

13. The hair is wound unevenly and will result in an uneven curl.

14. The wound rod is fastened with a twisted rubber. The twist will cause excess pressure on the hair and will lead to hair breakage.

15. The hair is dragged down during wind and will lead to straight roots. In addition, the rubber is pressing into the hair leading to excess pressure and hair breakage.

16. The ends of the hair are not encased by the end paper and will lead to fishhooks.

17. Damaged hair by perming The hair has literally been fried by heat, and then burst open Grossly over-permed hair: repeated perming will produce dry, damaged hair unless very expertly performed Hair which has been repeatedly permed

18. Under processed Over processed Curl too loose Curl too tight Fish hooks frizzy ends Re perm if in good condition Restructurants /treatments /hot oil to relax the curl Re perm if in good condition Relax with hot oil /treatments Trim / condition Remedies

19. Perm Hairand neutralising hair 208 Aim: to enable learners to understand perming Knowledge Outcomes: Learners will be able to: 1 Identify different winding techniques 2 Describe the effects of perm lotion on the structure of the hair. 3 Describe the effects of neutraliser on the structure of the hair

20. The science • http://www.learnxtra-hairdressing.com/education/level-2/unit-h12/perming-science

21. Acid lotion is used for Alkaline lotion is used for Pre perm lotion used to Chemically treated, fine or delicate hair Strong hair with no chemicals on Even out porosity Selecting the lotion 1) Chemically treated 2) Normal 3) Resistant

22. SOFTENING MOULDING When the perm lotion (the reducing agent) is applied to the hair using either the bottle or the sponge it adds hydrogen. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTORS INSTRUCTIONS Hydrogen is breaking the sulphur bonds Taking the shape of the rod The hydrogen breaks down some of the di-sulphide bonds (approximately 20% of the bonds are broken). As the di-sulphide bonds are broken each cystine molecule is reduced to form two cysteine molecules. The chemical changes

23. During the perming process • The softened hair now takes on the shape of the perm rod. • If too many bonds are broken during the processing, the structure of the hair would break up and the hair would be destroyed. • Once processing is complete the hair is rinsed to stop further processing. • TIMING IS EVERYTHING, a development test must take place every five minutes for chemically treated hair, ten minutes for virgin hair • Heat will speed up the processing time. • If the room or client are cold this will slow down the processing time IN PAIRS USE THEORY BOOK TO FIND OUT HOW TO DO THIS TEST

24. Neutraliser/fixer • Once the ‘S’ is identified the hair should be rinsed immediately to stop further development • Make sure the client is sitting correctly and comfortable at the basin • Gloves must be worn during the rinsing process • Remove the cotton wool • The water should be warm, not hot or cold because the scalp will be sensitive • Rinse the hair thoroughly, following manufacturers instructions • If any rods become loose, rewind them immediate • Blot the hair thoroughly, before applying the neutraliser

25. The science of neutraliser • Following the perming process, the hair is neutralised. • The purpose of the neutraliser is to stabilise the hair structure and fix the hair in its new shape. • The chemical contained in neutraliser is an oxidising action which removes the hydrogen from the two cysteine molecules to form water. • The di-sulphide bonds are reformed in the new position to hold the curl in place.

26. Types of wind • Nine section • Directional • Brick Only two winds are required for VRQ

27. How to wind a perm curler • Section the hair using a tail comb • Take a sub-section, no wider or deeper then the selected rod. • Place an endpaper over the points of the hair, to help secure the ends. (preventing fish hocks). a. • Hold the hair at a 90° angle from the head.

28. How to wind a perm curler • Wind the rod down to the scalp with even tension. • Place the wound rod onto the base of the section. Secure the rod by fastening the rubber band across the top of the rod, making sure it is not twisted or marking the hair. • Rods come in different sizes determined by the rod colour, the smaller the roller the smaller the curl

29. Nine section wind • As the name indicates, the head is divided into nine sections. • Winding starts through the centre nape section. • The top section is wound straight back off the face and the side and back sections wound straight down. • This technique is methodical and for formal set styles .

30. 9 Section wind is for a more formal looking curl

31. Directional wind Directional windingThis technique is performed by winding the hair so that it lies in the direction that the style will be worn. Directional wind is good for creating volume and direction to support a particular cut and is most suitable for shorter styles.

32. Brick wind Shows no section marks more casual Winding usually starts at the front hairline. This technique is suitable for hair which requires a parting within the look. An ideal technique for short hair styles.

33. Styling and After care • Initial care , do not wash or wet hair for a few days ( 24rs minimum) as the water can break down the bonds and relax the perm • Tension on the hair should be kept a minimum for a few days (don’t be rough, if brushing or combing the hair). • Do not have any other chemical treatments for one or two weeks. • Identify suitable shampooing and conditioning products for permed hair.

34. Styling and After care • Identify suitable styling and finishing products to help maintain the perm and create the look they require. • Explain and show the client how to use the products. • Let the client touch, feel and use the products, while in the salon, advise client to have regular trims

35. Home study • Research 3 different types of lotion • Add all style winds to style book • Practice winding techniques • Do the GH14 quiz on qube

36. Case study – learning activity In pairs or small groups complete the following 5 case studies • The following case studies describes a selection of ‘clients’. They all want to have a perm but there may be some reasons why a perm may be unsuitable. • You must identify those who can have a perm and the: • products • materials • equipment that would be required. • For those clients who cannot have a perm you must identify: • why a perm would be unsuitable • the outcome if the client failed to listen to the advice that you gave

37. Case study 1 In pairs or small groups complete the following 5 case studies • Candy has long hair that was permed 8 months ago. She tells you that the last perm wouldn’t take and the stylist had to put her under a hood drier for 30 minutes before it took. The client doesn’t want you to cut any more than 3cms (1in) off the length and she wants a firm curl. The manufacturer’s instructions state that you should not put the perm under heat but the client complains that it won’t take if it doesn’t go under a drier.

38. Case study 2 • Karen has short, greasy, virgin hair. She wants to have a soft perm, designed just to give some body and to dry the greasiness a little. The hair is in very good condition and the client tells you that she would like it to remain in good condition.

39. Case study 3 • Bobbie has heavily highlighted hair. The hair is below shoulder length and is very dry. The highlights have been done at home by her friend using a strong bleach that the friend bought while abroad. The client tells you that each time she combs her hair it seems that a lot of hair comes out in the comb. She also thinks that her hair is getting thinner so she thought that a perm would give it a bit of volume.

40. Case study 4 • Debbie has had previous problems with doing home perms. You have advised her to let all of the permed hair grow out then to have a professional perm done. Her hair is below shoulder length with all of the perm on the ends. She wants her hair restyled into quite a short, fashionable style and a perm that will support the style. She also wants to have some subtle tinted lowlights put into her hair in about four weeks time in preparation for her wedding

41. Case study 5 • Helen has just returned from a four week holiday in Egypt and Morocco. Her hair is sun bleached and dry from chlorine in the hotel swimming pool. She wants her hair cut but not too short and permed into soft, bouncy curls.