PEELS

1. PEELS

2. PEELS To peel MEANING Application of chemical substances (acid and caustic nature) in order to produce a burn which will stimulate a healing process. The goal is to replace and renovate the deteriorated skin for a new, younger and revitalized one. A dermic and epidermic reconstruction appears. A thicker dermis with higher production of fibroblasts and new fibers of collagen increased and with better orientation.

3. PEELS There was a time where peelings were done with fermented milk in certain cultures (Greece, Rome, Egypt). In the middle age, wine (malic or tartaric) or vinegar were used. Last century, in the thirties, peelings were done with phenol. Decades later, trychoroacetic was used. But from the eighties, Glycolic acid and the rest of Hydroxiacids were mostly applied for peelings.

4. PEELS Skin Epidermis Dermis pH 4.2 – 5.6 (sweat & sebum) pH 6 – 7 (vessels & fibers) acid neutral basic + acid for men + acid on dry skins • collagen • elastin • glycosaminoglycans Ph scale Complete renovation in 28 days

5. PEELS Cutaneous aging Photo -aging Chronological - ageing Genetic influence Differences in the capacity to repair injuries produced

6. PEELS Tipes of Peeling Chemicals Physicals Hydroxiacids mechanic thermic electronic Retinoic Resorcin Dermoabrasion Radiofrequency Cold Acetics (TCA) Ultrasounds Heat Phenol

7. PEELS Peelings classification Superficial Medium - Superficial Stratum corneum, epidermis & superficial papillary dermis Stratum corneum, epidermis & papilar & reticular dermis AHAs y BHAs > C AHAs y BHAs < C Indications Indications Acne Acne scars Fine & superficial lines Hyper pigmentation Actinic injury Actinic injury Epidermic hyperpigmentations Middle & superficial depth lines

8. PEELS Hydroxiacids Organic acids containing an hydroxyl group. The alpha-hydroxiacids (AHAs) have this hydroxyl group next to the carboxyl. The beta-hydroxíacidos (BHAs) Have it more far inside the molecule. AHA´s BHA´s • Glycolic acid • Mandelic acid • Lactic acid • Salicylic acid Found in plants and food

9. PEELS Glycolic acid Comes from sugar cane Revolution in the cosmetic world Lower molecular weight = Higher penetration capacity Gives turgidity and consistency to the skin Unifies the skin color Evident reduction of wrinkles depth Non fibrotic scars reduction According to the amount and location of the melanic pigment, some hyperpigmentations decrease or disappear.

10. PEELS Lactic acid AHA´s obtained from lactic products (fermented milk) Indicated for low or moderate aged skins Produces a dermic fibers stimulation Minor scalp effect Improves epidermic structure of the skin Basic component for the hydration of the skin Gives luminosity and unifies the colour of the skin Indicated for sensitive skins because of being a light peeling

11. PEELS Mandelic acid AHA´s coming from tarted almonds Ideal for aged, hyperpigmented and oily skins Promotes a light and progressive exfoliation of the skin Security and excellent results Depigmentation and antiseptic effects Stimulates tissular renovation Stimulates new synthesis of collagen Acts superficially and do not cause any burn or erythema

12. PEELS Salycilic acid BHA´s coming from a bark of the whipping willow Liposoluble acid with keratolitic action Sebum regulator, antiseptic and bacteriostatic Keeps Propionilbacterium acnes proliferation under control Inhibition of the lipogenesis. Controls and regulates sebum Stimulates tissue regeneration Improves comfort and structure of oily skins Stimulates synthesis of new collagen and improves appearance of the aging process.

13. PEELS Peelings characteristics Different concentrations (Weight & volume) pH: 1,8 Cosmetic form: fluid and transparent gel with no preservatives Ph adjustment: boffled effet with amino-acids Kind of peelings to be done: very superficial, superficial, medium Presentation: 50 ml vase + mesuring vase + neutraliser

14. PEELS Post-peel Neutralizing Spray After removing the peeling with some water, to pulverize with the neutralizing spray Neutralizes and makes penetration of the acid difficult to be A pleasant sensation comes with some cold Its application comes to be necessary after the peel session One neutralizing spray comes with every peel

15. PEELS EXPOSURE TIMES FOR EACH APPLICATION Mandelic_peel AM Mandelic acid C 30% 40% 50% T 10’ 7’ 5’ Lactic_peel AL Lactic acid C 30% 40% 50% T 10’ 7’ 5’ Salicylic_peel AS Salycilic acid C 10% 20% 30% T 10’ 7’ 5’ Glycolic_peel AG Glycolic acid C 20% 35% 50% 70% T 15’ 10’ 6’ 3’

16. PEELS Mesoestetic professional peelings are meant to be for the controled application of an hydroxiacid over the skin to promote its renovation The application of the peeling is an easy technique. Good results depend on considerate some important aspects Knowledge of the agent used Application protocol Professional training

17. PEELS APPLICATIONPROTOCOL

18. PEELS Application protocol in the beautician’s room 1 Remove make up of the zone with some mesoestetic Hydra milk cleanser or Facial gel cleanser 2 Apply some mesoestetic Hydratonic Protect eyes area, introducing a few weat gauses in some water 3 Remove oil excess of the skin with some mesoestetic Professional Degreasing lotion 4 Apply the chosen peel over the surface of the skin with a brush. 5

19. PEELS 6 Times of exposure Remove the peel with abundant water, and pulverize the surface with the neutralizing spray. 7 Apply some mesoestetic face mask, hydra vital face mask or purifying face mask according to skin type 8 Apply mesoestetic Fast skin repair 9 10 Apply mesoestetic complete moisturising sunblock, and the dermatological one

20. PEELS General post peeling care Regeneration Hydration Protection Fast Skin Repair Hydravital factor K Complete sunscreen

21. PEELS Home maintenance protocol 1 Wash and remove make up with mesoestetic Hydra milk cleanser or Facial gel cleanser & Hydratonic morning and evening Apply several times per day mesoestetic Fast Skin Repair, during stinging and flacking process 2 Apply several times per day the Complete moisturizing sun block or Dermatological one 3

22. PEELS Post peeling suggestions Do not rub or touch affected areas Do not use aggressive soaps for 24h Do not shave o epilate the area treated In case of any wound, do not apply any product on the skin AVOID DIRECT SUN EXPOSURE

23. PEELS Results Physiologically, tissue appears to be Thicker and with a higher amount of fibroblasts More fibers with better orientation Better melanic population regulation Not extra melanic depots Improved vascularization

24. PEELS Results Visible results noticed on the skin surface Firmer skin Thinner and skin colour gets quite pink Smoother and with more luminosity Disappearance of superficial wrinkles and attenuation of the deepest ones Removal and attenuation of blemishes and skin imperfections

25. PEELS Counter indications Retinoic treatments (6 months of cleansing effect) Active herpetic injuries Pregnancy Tendency to develop hypertrophy scars and keloids Photosensitivity Hypersensitivity reaction Radiotherapy treatment Previous surgery over the area where the peel has to be applied

26. PEELS Mesoestetic peelings advantages They can be used all year long They can be used over all skin types Ideal for face and body treatments Quick and easy application, with no pain Results are visible from the first session Recovering period is not necessary

27. PEELS Treatment cycles Number of treatments recommended : 6 sessions minimum Spaced between 2 to 4 weeks Maintenance: 1 session every 6 or 12 months

28. PEELS THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION