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Waves and Surf

Waves and Surf. Water Movement. Ocean waters move in patterns like the wind These patterns exist because of where our continents lay These patterns are called “OCEAN CURRENTS”. Message In A Bottle. Making Waves. Waves are made of energy coming from winds blowing on the ocean surface

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Waves and Surf

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  1. Waves and Surf

  2. Water Movement • Ocean waters move in patterns like the wind • These patterns exist because of where our continents lay • These patterns are called “OCEAN CURRENTS”

  3. Message In A Bottle

  4. Making Waves • Waves are made of energy coming from winds blowing on the ocean surface • 3 things tell us how big waves will be: • How long the wind blows • How hard the wind blows • How big the area is

  5. Waves Moving to Shore • The “energy” moves to shore along currents • As it reaches shore, it forms a wave along the shallow waters • As the water gets more shallow, the wave grows bigger

  6. Anatomy of a wave

  7. Wave Shape • Waves break on shore in different ways • The bottom conditions determine what kind of waves we will have • A gradual sloping bottom will make different waves than a steep bottom

  8. Spilling Waves happen when the bottom gradually gets more shallow • These waves can be powerful but generally are not steep and good learning waves • Example: HB, Doheny, and San Onofre,

  9. Plunging Waves (Barrels) occur when the bottom goes from deep to shallow very quickly • Example: The Wedge

  10. Surfs up in HB • During the summer, our waves generally come from the Southwest (New Zealand, Fiji, and Indonesia) • During the winter, our waves come from the Northwest (Alaska and Japan) • Hurricanes in Mexico also send us large surf

  11. Ocean Bottoms Around the World • Along our continents, there is shallow water that extends for miles out to sea • This is called the Continental Shelf • Most shelves slope gradually • Have an average depth of 200 feet

  12. shelf

  13. shelf

  14. New Sea Floor • Our continents drift on enormous plates (tectonic plates) • The plates crash into one another and others move away from one another • In some places, new sea floor is being created • In other places, old sea floor is being pushed back under the earth

  15. Mid Atlantic Trench • As lava creeps up from deep in the Earth, new sea floor is being made • Over time, the sea floor “moves” outward towards the continents

  16. Old Sea Floor • In other parts of the world, tectonic plates crash into one another • This is where old sea floor is being forced back into the Earth • This is how many mountains are formed (Himalayan Mountains) • Example: Japan, Oregon, South America

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