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WOOL

WOOL. It’s got to be sheep!!!. Wool Characteristics. Durability and Resiliency Stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry Bounces back when stress is released (elasticity) Fiber Absorbency (Hygroscopic – absorbs water and gives heat in return)

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WOOL

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  1. WOOL It’s got to be sheep!!!

  2. Wool Characteristics • Durability and Resiliency • Stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry • Bounces back when stress is released (elasticity) • Fiber Absorbency (Hygroscopic – absorbs water and gives heat in return) • Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. • Works as a temperature regulator by keeping a dry layer of dry air next to the skin.(desert use) • Felting • Scales and superwash process. • Dyeing • Takes dye differently per breed • It dyes in both acid or basic dyestuff. (amphoteric) • Less prone to damage in acid solutions • Resistance to flame • Differential friction effect. • Shrink resistant wool is much less likely to pill

  3. Classification (as per Nola and Jane Fornier: In Sheep’s Clothing): • Fine wool • Long wool • Down type wool • Other wools • Measurement Systems: • Bradford Count: fiber’s quality or spinning count based on how many yards of worsted yarn in a pound. • Micron count: actual diameter of a sample of fibers.

  4. Fine Wool • Fineness of wool is measured in Micron • Fine wools vary from 17 to 33 micron • Breeds that are a merino Cross • Many crimps per inch (look at my breed book) • Felts readily • Washing : A lot of grease – hot water, plenty detergent and small quantities.

  5. Bond (Australia) • Merino ewes to Lincoln rams • 23 – 28 micron • 6 to 7 inches • CVM (California Varigated Mutant) (USA) • Colored variant of Romeldale • 21 to 25 micron • 3 to 4.5 inches • Romeldale (USA) • Romney rams and Rambouillet ewes. • 21 to 25 micron • 3 to 4.5 inches • Columbia (USA and Canada) • Lincoln rams and Rambouillet ewes • 24 to 31 micron • 3.5 to 5 inches • Cormo – • Corriedale rams with saxon Merino ewes • 21 to 23 micron • 4 to 5 inches • Corriedale (Australia, New Zealand, USA, South Africa, Argentina, Chile, China, UK) • British Longwool rams (Lincoln and Englis Leicester) • 26 to 33 micron • 3 to 5 inches

  6. Debouillet (USA) • Delaine Merinos and Rambouillets • 19 to 24 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Polwarth (Australia) • Lincoln x Merino Ewes were bred back to Merino rams. • 21 to 26 micron • 4 to 5.5 inches • Polypay (USA and Canada) • TargheeXDorset crosses and RambouilletxFinnsheep. • 22 to 28 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Rambouillet (France and USA) • Pure Spanish Merinos (France 1786) • 18 to 24 micron • 2 to 4 inches • Targhee (USA and Canada) • Rambouillet rams and Corriedalexlincoln/Rambouillet ewes. • 22 to 27 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Merino (Australia, France, New Zealand, South Africa, USA, other countries) • 18 to 24 micron • 2.5 to 4 inches • Grease is 25 to 45 percent of total fleece. • Sharlea is the registered name for ultrafine Merino wool. (no higher than 17.5 micron

  7. Longwool • Most originated from British sheep breeds • Wavy crimp pattern • Medium to long staple (5 to 8.5 inches) • Begins at 32 microns to more than 40 microns • Outwear, upholstery, rugs and carpets. • Lustrous or semilustrous. • Washing: Moderately grease, easy to wash (hot water and detergent) • Felting low (exceptions: Gotlan, Borderdale, Romney, Finish and Lincoln)

  8. Blue-Faced Leiscester (UK, Canada, USA) • Crossbred ewes of the most prolific of the British breeds. • 24 to 28 microns • 3 to 6 inches • Border Leicester (UK, Australia, NZ, SA,North and South America) • English Leicester and Cheviot crosses • 37 to 40 micros • 6 to 8 inches • Borderdale (New Zealand) • Crossbreed of Border Leicester with Corriedale • 30 to 35 micron • 4 to 6 inches • Coopworth (NZ, Australia, Eastern Europe, USA) • Border Leicester and Romney stock • 35 to 39 micron • 5 to 7 inches • Cotswold (UK, Canada, USA) • Ancient breed improved with the addition of Lincoln and Leicester blood. • 34 to 40 micron • 7 to 12 inches

  9. Finnish or Finn(Scandinavia, Canada, France, US and NZ) • Originating from several breeds of Scandinavian short-tailed sheep • 24 to 31 microns • 3 to 6 inches • Gotland(Sweden, Norway, NZ) • Developed from the original Swedish short-tailed sheep on the island of Gotland. • 28 to 32 microns • 3 to 5 inches • Lincoln (England, Argentina, Australia, NZ, US and other countries) • Stabilished since 1750 – foundation of the British Longwools • 36 to 38 microns • 7 to 10 inches • Marsham (UK) • Teeswater or Wnsleydale ram with Dalesbred or Swaledale ewes. • 29 to 34 micron • 6 to 14 inches • Romney (Most sheep-growing countries in the world) • Romney Marshes • 30 to 35 micron • 5 to 7 inches

  10. Teeswater (UK) • It is used to cross with other breeds • 30 to 31 microns • 6 to 12 inches • Texel(Netherlands, Canada, France, Germany, UK, USA and NZ) • Developed in Holand from crossing of Old Texel sheep with British long wools. • 26 to 34microns • 3 to 6 inches • Wensleydale (UK) • Provides rams to cross with other breeds. • 30 to 36 microns • 8 to 12 inches

  11. Down-Type Wools • True down breeds originated in Southeastern England • Other sheep that share the same fleece characteristics. • Bred for use as sires of crossbred fat lambs. (meat) • Compact and medium-sized • Crisp feel and spongy handle • Fiber diameter ranges from fine to medium • 2 and 3.5 inches • Well developed spiral crimp • Resilience, loft, bulk and elasticity.

  12. Typically without luster • May produce kemp fibres • Good shape retention and insulation • Crease-resistant • Commercially used to make tweeds, blankets and hosiery • Handspinners can use it for sweaters, socks , throws, blankets and garment made of down-type fleece or blended with other wools. • Washing: Does not felt easily. Moderate grease content. Hot water and detergent. • Preferable preparation method: carding. • Great for socks

  13. Black Welsh Mountain (UK, Europe) • All black fleece • 26 to 33 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Cheviot (UK, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, SA, USA and Scandinavia) • 28 to 33 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Dorset down (England,Australia, Argentina, NZ, USA and other countries) • Southdown rams crossbred with ewes from a number of other breeds.(UK) • 26 to 29 micron • 2 to 3 inches • Dorset (Horn and Pool Dorset) (UK, Argentina, Australia, NZ, USA, SA and Canada) • Dorset Horn is a very old breed • Dorset Poll was developed in Australia by introducing pool gene of corriedale and Ryeland sheep. • 27 to 32 micron • 3 to 4 inches

  14. Norfolk Horn (UK) • Rare breed was the original parents of the Suffolk. • 26 to 19 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Oxford Down (UK, Canada, South America, USA, Cont. Europe) • Largest of the down breed • Originated in England 1830 crossings of Cotswold rams and Hampshire Down ewes (with some Southdown blood) • 28 to 34 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Shetland (UK, Canada, USA) • Introduced by early Scandinavian settlers in Shetland island. • 23 to 30 micron • 2 to 5 inches • Shropshire ( UK, Australia, Canada, NZ, USA) • 26 to 30 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Suffolk (USA, Australia, NZ, elsewhere) • 26 to 28 micron • 2 to 3 inches

  15. Tunis (USA) • 25 to 30 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Southdown (England, Australia, France, NZ, USA) • 23 to 28 micron • 2 to 3 inches

  16. Other wools • Double-coated sheep • Fine undercoat and gradually tapers to a hairy tip • Slight wave or no crimp at all • Colours in some breeds • Might contain Kemp and colored fibers. • Usually processed together (graded as course) • Most contain little grease. • Undercoat felts • Dalesbred,Herdwick, Karakul, Navajo-Churro, Romanov, Rough Fell, Scottish Blackface,Spelsau, Swaledale, • Icelandic

  17. Hair Sheep • Raised for meet • Barbados, Katahdin, Persian Blackhead, Saint Croix, West African, Wiltshire Horn. • No commercial value. Most simply shed each year. • Sheep that thrive in warm temperature.

  18. Primitive and Feral Sheep • First domesticated sheep. • Sheep that was released or escaped and by being isolated developed the primitive fleece characteristics again. • Short, woolly coat mixed with hair or kemp and coloured fleece • Tendency to molt annually. • Some are also rare breed (small numbers) • Boreray, Hebridean or Saint Kilda, Manx Loghtan, North Ronaldsay, Soay,

  19. Other breeds • Jacob • Came from M.East 16th cent. Kept in English parks as ornamental animals. • May contain kemp or show difference in character between coloured portions. • California Red • Cross of Barbados (Barbados Blackbelly + American Rambouillet) and American Tunis (pink beige colour) • Small numbers

  20. Other Wool Classification by Kate Larson • Northern European Short Tail Sheep • Nordic countries, isles of the North Sea and North Atlantic, Shetland, Iceland, Faeroe. • Icelandic, Shetland, Finn, • Long Wool Sheep • British breeds that produce lustrous curly locks (up to 15 inches a year) • Leicester Family (English Leicester, Border Leicester, BFL) • Teeswater, Lincoln. • Down-Type sheep • Sheep that come from the Downs region of England. • Hampshire, Oxford, Southdown (true Down breeds) • Fibers are loft and do not compress easily. Bouncy, slow to felt(great for warmth). • Cheviot, Suffolk, Horned Dorset. • Medium-wool sheep • Fine and strong fleeces. Memory and resilience. • All purpose fleece • Tunis, Columbia, Corriedale, • Fine Wool Sheep • Luxurious with the softest cloth possible. • Romeldale and CVM, Cormo, Merino, Polwarth, Rambouillet

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