FASH 15 textiles special-purpose finishes

1. FASH 15 textiles special-purpose finishes

2. special-purpose finishes • AKA functional finishes • chemical finishes applied to fabrics to enhance performance and specific end uses • add to product cost & value • may be invisible or beyond consumer perception • many topical some wet processed in order to facilitate absorption of finish into fiber

3. stabilization—shrinkage control • fabric is stable when retains original size & shape during use and care • relaxation shrinkage—occurs during washing, steam pressing or dry cleaning; most occurs during first care cycle • progressive shrinkage—continues at smaller rates for several additional care cycles • cotton, flax, lyocell & HWM rayon exhibit relaxation shrinkage • regular rayon exhibits high relaxation shrinkage & moderate progressive shrinkage • wool exhibits moderate relaxation shrinkage & high progressive shrinkage • other properly set MF exhibit relaxation shrinkage & no progressive shrinkage

4. stabilization—shrinkage control • relaxation shrinkage finishes • knit fabrics shrink due to stitch elongation during manufacture—return to normal size during laundering • minimized by overfeeding fabric between sets of rollers to induce lengthwise shrinkage; loop drying; heat setting of thermo-plastic fibers • woven fabrics shrink when wetting relaxes strain of manufacture—most noticeable in filling direction • compressive shrinkage used to maximize shrinkage

5. stabilization—shrinkage control • progressive shrinkage finishes • thermoplastic fibers— • stabilized by heat setting; when properly set, have no progressive shrinkage & little relaxation shrinkage • wool fibers— • surface coating—polyamide solution enables fibers to move back and forth without entangling; controls shrinkage, pilling & fuzzing • halogenation—chlorine partially dissolves scales and reduces felting shrinkage • rayon fibers— • resins reduce fiber swelling & make it resistant to distortion

6. shape-retention finishes durable press— items that retain shape and pressed appearance even after many uses, washings & tumble dryings; applied before or after fabric has cured durable press wool— achieved with combination resin treatments to impart durable-press characteristics & control excessive shrinkage durable-press silk— polycarboxylic acid used to keep silk from wrinkling easily when wet; cuts down on strength, adds stiffness & decreases whiteness

7. appearance-retention finishes soil- and stain-release— reduce degree of soiling of fabric by repelling soil or preventing formation of bonds between soil & fabric; mechanically or chemically bonded to surface—organic silicone or fluorocarbon substances abrasion-resistant— thermoplastic acrylic resins that fix fibers more firmly into yarns so they don’t break off as readily antislip— used on low-count, smooth-surface woven fabrics & some sheer, open knits to prevent movement of yarns within fabric

8. appearance-retention finishes • fume-fading-resistant— • used on dye-fiber combinations that are susceptible to fading when exposed to atmospheric fumes or pollutants • surface or back coatings— • used on back of fabrics to: • reduce heat transfer • alter fabric appearance • lock yarns in place • control porosity • minimize air & water permeability

9. appearance-retention finishes light-stabilizing— apply light-stabilizing or ultraviolet-absorbing compounds to fabrics to minimize damage from light exposure pilling-resistant— minimize the formation of tiny balls of fiber bits on a fabric’s surface anti-yellowing— prevents nitrogen oxides from vehicle exhaust from combining with BHT in plastic wrap that fabric is generally stored in

10. comfort-related finishes water-repellent finishes— resists wetting; depends upon surface tension & fabric penetrability; generally calendared & then chemically applied waterproof fabric— will not wet regardless of length & force of exposure to water moisture management finishes— remove sweat from skin’s surface & help cool body http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXLPnD2w0P8

11. comfort-related finishes porosity-control— used to limit penetration of fabric by air water-absorbent— increase moisture absorbency of fabric & its drying time http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ns4mnmNBk1Y ultra-violet absorbent— incorporate chemical compounds or nanoparticles that absorb energy in UV region of electromagnetic spectrum

12. comfort-related finishes • antistatic— • controlled with humidity in natural-fiber fabrics • with thermoplastic fibers controlled by: • improving surface conductivity • attracting water molecules • neutralizing electrostatic charge • fabric softeners— • improve hand of harsh textiles • phase-change finishes— • minimize heat flow through a fabric—insulate against temperature extremes

13. biological-control finishes • insect- and moth-control— • AKA fumigants, insecticides, insect-repellent • moth control usually by chemical (Permethrin) at scouring or dyeing stage • insect control methods: • cold storage—decreases insect activity; museum use, generally not practical for consumer • odors—mothballs; poison and should be used with caution • stomach poisons—fluorides & silicofluorides used for dry-cleanable wool • contact poisons—such as DDT; very effective but banned in US • chemical additives—in dye bath permanently alter fiber; make it unpalatable by larvae; may yellow or cause color loss

14. biological-control finishes • rot-proof— • used primarily on technical products used outdoors to improve durability & longevity • antimicrobial— • leachable (not bonded to fiber) • nonleachable (bonded to fiber or used as additives) • inhibit growth of microbes • reduce or prevent odor • prevent decay and damage from perspiration • control spread of disease • reduce risk of infection after injury

15. biological-control finishes microencapsulated— smart textile finish that incorporates a water-soluble or other material in a tiny capsule form— may contain fragrance, insect repellents, disinfectants, cleaning agents, cooling/warming chemicals, lotions, oils to relieve stress, deodorants, activated charcoal, etc…

16. safety-related finishes • fire retardance— • resistance to combustion of a material when tested under specified conditions • flame resistance— • property of a material whereby flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited by following application of a flaming or nonflaming source of ignition, with or without subsequent removal of ignition source • flammability— • characteristics of material that pertain to its relative ease of ignition and relative ability to sustain combustion • flame-retardant finishes— • function in variety of ways: block flame’s access or extinguish flame • can be durable or non-durable • less expensive than flame-resistant fibers

17. safety-related finishes liquid-barrier— protect wearer from liquids penetrating through fabric—important to health care professionals, agricultural & chemical workers light-reflecting— used on fabrics to increase visibility of wearers in low-light conditions

18. participation activity: special-purpose finishes …using the text & internet as your resources, research one of the special-purpose finishes that we have discussed in class today, one that is of particular interest to you …summarize how the finish is created, applied or integrated into the fabric and what the particular reasoning for that finish is…elaborate upon what has been covered in class