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GEOL 1307 Physical Geology. Exercise #16 Evolution of Coastal Landforms. Waves. Wavelength Crest Trough Amplitude Period Frequency. Ocean Waves. The Water Isn’t Moving (how ocean waves work) Refraction (why ocean waves break). Wave Erosion. Wave-Cut Notch Sea-Cliffs
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GEOL 1307 Physical Geology Exercise #16 Evolution of Coastal Landforms
Waves • Wavelength • Crest • Trough • Amplitude • Period • Frequency
Ocean Waves • The Water Isn’t Moving (how ocean waves work) • Refraction (why ocean waves break)
Wave Erosion • Wave-Cut Notch • Sea-Cliffs • Wave-Cut Platforms • Sea-Stacks
Sediment Transport • Waves • Longshore Current • Tides
Depositional Features • Beaches • Barrier Islands • Peninsulas • Spits • Bars • Hummocks
Bays and Wetlands • Estuaries • Bays • Lagoons • Marshes • Salt Marsh • Brackish Marsh • Fresh Marsh • Swamps • Coastal Prairie
Evolution of Coastal Landscapes • Emergent Coasts • Submergent Coasts
Types of Coastlines • Siliciclastic Coasts • Humid • Sediment Supply • Carbonate Coasts • Arid • Evaporation
Stages of Coastal Modification • Initial Stage of Shoreline Modification\ • Intermediate Stage of Shoreline Modification • Terminal Stage of Shoreline Modification
Sequence Stratigraphy • Transgressive Sea-Level • Submergent Coastlines • Erosional Features • Regressive Sea-Level • Emergent Coastlines • Aggradation
The Future of the Gulf Coast • Global Warming • Sea-Level Rise • Barrier Island Migration • Environmental Engineering