170 likes | 202 Views
TT 232 N TEXTILE PRINTING 3-0-3. R.B.CHAVAN DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI. INTRODUCTION. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING DYEING UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND WIDTH OF FABRIC USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE.
E N D
TT 232 N TEXTILE PRINTING3-0-3 R.B.CHAVAN DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI R.B.CHAVAN
INTRODUCTION DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING DYEING • UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND WIDTH OF FABRIC • USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE. • NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC • AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY • DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMI-CONTINUOUS METHOD. • FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM. • DYEING IN FIBRE, YARN, FABRIC, GARMENT FORM R.B.CHAVAN
PRINTING • LOCALLIZED DYEING • COLOUR IS APPLIED LOCALLY IN THE FORM OF DESIGN/PATTERN • LOW VISCOSITY MEDIUM WOULD SPREAD THE COLOUR BY CAPILLARY ACTION, DOES NOT MAINTAIN THE SHARPNESS OF THE DESIGN. • AQUEOUS MEDIUM OF HIGH VISCOSITY, PREVENT THE COLOUR SPREADING. • FABRIC PRINTING IN OPEN WIDTH FORM ONLY • FABRIC PRINTING IS MOST COMMON COMPARED TO YARN AND GARMENT PRINTING, EXCEPTION T-SHIRT PRINTING R.B.CHAVAN
PRINT LIKE EFFECTS • PRINTING • WEAVING USING COLOURED YARN • KNITTING USING COLOURED YARN • APPLIQUE OR PATCH WORK • EMBROIDERY R.B.CHAVAN
PRINTING STUDY STYLES OF PRINTING DIRECT STYLE • PRINTING OF SINGLE OR MULTICOLOURS ON WHITE OR PALE SHADE DYED FABRIC RESIST STYLE • PREVENTION OF COLOUR FIXATION AT THE PRINTED PORTION • WHITE RESIST: WHITE PRINT AGAINST COLOURED BACKGROUND • COLOUR RESIST: COLOUR PRINT AGAINST COLOURE BACKGROUND DISCHARGE STYLE • DESTRUCTION OF COLOUR AT THE PRINTED PORTION • WHITE DISCHARGE • COLOUR DISCHARGE R.B.CHAVAN
METHODS OF PRINTING • BLOCK PRINTING • STENCIL PRINTING • ROLLER PRINTING • SCREEN PRINTING • MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING • AUTOMATIC FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING • ROTORY SCREEN PRINTING • TRANSFER PRINTING • XEROX PRINTING • INKJET/DIGITAL PRINTING • PRINT LIKE EFFECT • TIE-DYE AND BATIK R.B.CHAVAN
BLOCK PRINTING • OLDEST METHOD • INDIAN ORIGIN • STILL PRACTICED IN INDIA REQUIREMENTS • WOODEN PRINTING BLOCKS • COLOUR FURNISHING TRAY • PRINTING TABLE R.B.CHAVAN
PRINTING BLOCK • MADE OF GOOD QUALITY WOOD • THICKNESS 3-4 INCHES (7-10 CM) • MAXIMUM SIZE 12x12 INCHES (30x30 CM) • DESIGN ON BLOCK IN RELIEF • BLOCK MAKING : MANUAL, SKILLED BLOCK MAKERS R.B.CHAVAN
BLOCK MAKING • DESIGN TRACING ON PLAIN BLOCK SURFACE • MANUAL CARVING OF NON DESIGN PORTIONS • DEPTH DEPENDS ON NATURE OF DESIGN • METAL WIRE INLAY FOR VERY FINE OUTLINES • SEPARATE BLOCK FOR EACH COLOUR IN THE DESIGN • OLD TRADITIONAL METHOD STILL FOLLOWED • NO NEW TECHNOLOGICAL INPUTS R.B.CHAVAN
PRINTING TABLE • WOODEN TABLE • HEIGHT: 75-100 CM • WIDTH: LARGER THAN THE WIDTH OF THE FABRIC TO BE PRINTED • LENGTH: DEPENDS ON THE SPACE AVAILABLE. 10 METRES QUITE COMMON CUSHIONING • RIGID WOODEN SURFACE NOT SUITABLE • RESILIENT SURFACE OBTAINED BY LAYERS OF • FABRIC TO BE PRINTED • COTTON GREY FABRIC • 4-6 LAYERS OF JUTE FABRIC • WOODEN TABLE TOP • ALL FABRIC LAYERS ARE FIXED IN STRETCHED CONDITION R.B.CHAVAN
COLOUR FURNISHING TRAY • WOODEN TRAY • 2-3 LAYERS OF JUTE FABRIC OR • SINGLE LAYER OF THICK ABSORBENT POLY URETHANE FOAM • FINE COTTON FABRIC R.B.CHAVAN
BLOCK PRINTING METHOD • FIXATION OF FABRIC TO BE PRINTED ON CUSHIONED TABLE • SATURATION OF DESIGN BLOCK WITH PRINTING PASTE • TRANSFER OF DESIGN ON TO FABRIC BY SKILLED BLOCK PRINTER R.B.CHAVAN
ADVANTAGES AND LIMITATIONS ADVANTAGES • SIMPLE METHOD • LOW INVESTMENT LIMITATIONS • LOW PRODUCTION • INTRICATE DESIGNS NOT POSSIBLE • BLOCK MAKING AND BLOCK PRINTING SKILLED JOB R.B.CHAVAN
REFERENCE PRINCIPLE OF COTTON PRINTING D.G.KALE R.B.CHAVAN
SPRAY PRINTING • OLD TECHNIQUE ORIGINATED IN JAPAN • USED FOR PRINTING OF SILK SCARFS PRINCIPLE • SPRAY OF COLOUR ONTO FABRIC THROUGH STENCIL • STENCIL: THIN METAL PLATE, PLASTIC SHEET, PAPER • DESIGN CUT IN THE FORM OF STENCIL • METHOD AS IN FIG. R.B.CHAVAN
MERITS & DEMERITS MERITS • MULTICOLOUR EFFECT POSSIBLE THROUGH SINGLE STENCIL • TONAL EFFECTS ACCORDING TO SPRAY DENSITY • SPECKLED (DOT) EFFECT • UNIQUE DESIGNS DEMERITS • INTRICATE DESIGNS NOT POSSIBLE • DESIGN LIMITATIONS DUE TO PROBLEMS OF STENCIL CUTTING R.B.CHAVAN