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His & Hers The Evolution of Trends Presented to: Ohio Valley Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists November 19, 2013 Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com. 1. Hit Rewind for a Moment
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His & Hers The Evolution of Trends Presented to: Ohio Valley Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists November 19, 2013 Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
1. Hit Rewind for a Moment • In ancient times both men and women were comfortable with beauty treatments • In Biblical times, Sampson was known for his luxurious locks • The Vikings would elaborately braid their hair and beards before battle • In the courts of the Louis (XIV-XVI) the men’s heels were higher than the women’s, so were their wigs! • Beau Brummel and other Regency dandies known for their hair, stockings, scent and accessories Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
2. More Recent History • In our more recent past, in the ‘50s men wore elaborate pompadours- think Elvis and Rockabilly contrast against the Brylcreem • As things loosened up in the Swinging Sixties, men started to relax their dress and grooming- sideburns, some facial hair- Think Sergeant Pepper era Beatles • The ‘70s- when things got very playful- long hair, flower power, Allman Brothers, Grateful Dead • ‘80s Hair bands - most men had longer and better hair than I did • ‘90s very specific men’s hair styles - Caesar for an ER era George Clooney, modified pompadours for the boys of 90210 (swoon!), gel and flat tops (African American hair), long hair and grunge • In other words, we may have mocked them, but men were paying a lot of attention to their hair Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
3. And then....Metrosexuals • Mid-’90s, a change was around the bend • Men who had been pilfering their wives or girlfriends’ beauty products demanded those of their own. • Queer Eye tried to bridge the gap • A new breed of man- not being the rock of the family like the ‘50s, rebelling like the ‘60s, letting it all hang out like in the ‘70s or trying to out-power everyone else in the ‘80s. Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
4. And then....Silence • Metrosexuals went out with nary a whimper • Characters like Ross on Friends became more of a punchline than desired ideal • Internet geeks, fanboys and entrepreneurs replaced the carefully coiffed, primped and polished. • No real products addressing regular guys quest for better grooming Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
5. Just for Guys • While there had been hair color products and razors geared to men and minor product lines, no real players gearing products to guys • It was only the later end of the 2000’s that the industry started paying real attention to Men’s grooming needs. • Clinique for Men: With the hot properties of ‘anti-ageing’ which is controversial in women’s products but desired in men’s. • Quickly followed by: Gillette Fusion, Dove Men+Care, Neutrogena Men, • Disconnect: Men are considered distinguished when they age, women faded, and yet suddenly both desired fewer visible wrinkles and spots. Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
6. The Axe Effect • Something unexpected happened with a product geared toward young men • Mothers hated it, girls mocked it, boys loved it • Young men who might have been accused of questionable hygiene and seduction techniques were led to believe that dousing themselves in a spray of overwhelming scent would give them confidence and add to their burgeoning virility • Girls gone wild, guys went to Axe Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
7. Full Circle • The evolution of beauty advertising included family products, products geared to make men less gross and women more appealing to men. • The earliest modern advertising appeared in the mid-century and included targeted ads for both sexes • Men were still hyper-groomed though giving way to the more loosened ideals of the ‘60s • Women were still made insecure about their natural body functions and a bit oppressed about their hair and grooming, but with the advent of birth control and rise of feminism, beauty ideals changed radically - or at least seemed to. • Sort of like now- women are embracing vintage beauty ideals, many younger men are emulating either hipsters or beatniks or hippies. Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
8. Different Sexes - Same Ideals • For the first time in history, men and women seem to share a majority of aesthetic ideas • Though we call one beauty and the other grooming, the shared ideal is the same: • Anti-aging, better aging, beauty tools and techniques, more awareness of techniques and new technologies. • And yet, men look rugged, women look old. Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
9. Wildcards • Beauty ideals change over the centuries- where the ideal was once a Rubenesque shape, now aggressively thin is the shape to covet. • Despite breakthroughs in plus size models, older models, it’s still a tiny majority • Cosmetic surgery ranging from liposuction and facelifts of every variation change the equation. • Cosmetics including more treatment promises, have to compete with non-invasive techniques Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
10. Bod Mod Squad & Information Junkies • Tattoos and body modifications ranging from multiple piercings to stretching body parts (ear lobes) • Both sexes aware of sun damage, potential health hazards of smoking and an unhealthy lifestyle • Can do extensive research online, so building a smarter consumer. • Better pricing- so all of the online incentives may breed a less loyal buyer • Groupon, Rue La La, Online Coupons- double edged sword Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
11. They Expect More • Consume more media at a younger age. More screens, more access to products • Rely on the wisdom of the crowd to picks • Some good news- beauty editors still hold the most sway • Will not be talked down to • Transparency in claims and ingredients • But so do celebrities - not always black and white if something is an endorsement deal or an actual celebrity fave Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
12. What They Want • Two in one, three in one - one product that does more • Gifts, freebies, incentives • Ingestibles - follow the lead of gummy vitamins and vitamin drinks • Gadgets- From permanent hair removal to Clarisonic • Instant gratification - show me results, keep ‘em coming Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
13. What They’ve Got • Micro-brands, Micro-niches: From the popular small brands on Etsy, to small crafts festivals and events • Endless buying opportunities: Online, in store, Direct mail, Direct to consumer • Diversity: Different ages, colors, sexes, ingredients, scents • Technology: From packaging and delivery systems to the actual makeup of the makeup • Brands with a conscience • International influences • Classic ideals - glamour, sex appeal, love • Immediate Gratification Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com
14. What’s Next • I hope that you’ll keep me posted! Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian @rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 rachel@hirachel.com