Greige Goods

1. Greige Goods • Refers to fabric right off the loom. • Raw fabric before undergoing dying or bleaching

2. Fabric Finishes • Any special treatments that are applied to fabrics. • May be permanent or temporary.

3. Purposes of Fabric Finishes • Reduce undesirable characteristics. • Improve desirable characteristics. • Create specific designs. • Offer smoother or firmer hand. • Add specific properties, such as: wrinkle resistance.

4. Dyeing Textiles Dyes • Compounds that penetrate and color fibers. • Different fibers require different types.

5. Methods of Dyeing • Stock • Solution • Yarn • Piece • Product

6. Stock dyeing refers to dyeing a staple fiber before it is spun. • Solution Dyeing – A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents.

8. Dyeing • Fiber • Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns • Yarn • Placing yarns in dye bath before making into fabric • Piece • Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting • Product • Dyed after construction

9. Kinds of Dyes Synthetic fiber dyes: dye depends on type of fiber Acid dyes: Acid producing compound is used in the dye bath. Used on wool, mohair, angora, and silk. Fiber reactive dyes: Dyes react to the molecules of fibers. Used on cotton, rayon, linen, hemp and silk. Disperse dye: used on polyester and acetate fibers.

10. Colorfast • Color in a fabric will not change.

11. Types of Printing • Roller • Screen • Rotary • Heat transfer • Resist

12. Screen Printing • Earliest known method. • Uses a screen to transfer print. • Different screen for each color.

13. Roller Printing • Design is etched on copper rollers. • Each color in design requires separate roller. • Simple and fast. • Expensive

14. Rotary Printing • Combines both roller and screen printing methods.

15. Heat Transfer • Dyes are first printed on paper. • Paper is placed on fabric and with heat and pressure, the design is transferred to fabric. • T-shirts are commonly printed with this method.

16. Resist Printing • Resist printing involves a two-step procedure in which a design pattern is printed on a white or dyed fabric with chemical or wax that will prevent the dyes from penetrating the fabric. When the fabric is dyed, the color is absorbed only where there is no resist. Then the resist is removed. Resist Printing- uses wax or chemicals

17. Wood Block Printing • Earliest form of printing • Slowest method

18. Digital Printing • Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric.

19. Structural Design • Woven directly into the fabric. • Provides an interesting texture. • Example: jacquards

20. Printing Textiles • Involves transferring color to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern of design.

21. Appearance/Texture Finishes

22. Finishes Affecting Appearance and Texture • Stone Washing • Acid washing • Napping • Flocking • Brushing • Embossing

23. Stone Washing and Acid Dyes Stone Washing: • Hugely popular in the 1980’s. • Pumice stones used to create a faded fabric look. Acid Dyes: • Introduced to produce same effects as stone washing. • Not environmentally friendly.

24. Napping • Raises the fiber ends to the surface to be clipped, brushed, or left raised. Creates a softer, fuzzy texture to the fabric. • Common fabrics include: fleece, suede flannel, corduroy, and velvet.

25. Flocking • Surface design • Applied to the fabric. • Applying texture by depositing many small fiber particles onto a surface of fabric.

26. Brushing • Mechanical Finish • Fabric passed through wire rollers. • Produces soft and fluffy fabric. • Common fabric: fleece

27. Embossing • Fabric is passed through engraved rollers. • Creates a raised design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5yJOb8XmjE

28. Performance Finishes

29. Performance Finishes • Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/Antifungal • Anti-static • Durable press (Permanent Press) • Shrinkage control/Sanfordized • Mercerization • Stain release/Stain resistant

30. Performance Finishes • Water repellent and waterproof • Flame-resistant • Mildew resistance • Moth resistance • Wrinkle resistant/ Crease resistant

31. Performance Finishes • Anti-Bacterial (Anti-Microbial) - A fabric that has been chemically treated or a fiber that is created by incorporating the anti-bacterial chemical agent into the fiber formula, making the finished fiber or fabric resistant to, or inhibiting the growth of micro-organisms.   • Anti-Static - Can be either a fiber or fabric that does not allow the build-up of static electricity to occur when the fiber or fabric experiences friction or rubbing.

32. Performance Finishes • Permanent Press/Durable Press- A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering.

33. Performance Finishes & Fabrics • Sanforization AKA Shrinkage Control- • is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–1968) in 1930. • It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width before cutting and producing, to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing.

34. Performance Finishes Mercerization – • is a process applied to cellulosic fibers to increase luster. It is done after weaving (in the case of fabrics) or spinning (for yarns or threads)

35. Performance Finishes • Repellency - The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc. • Water Repellent- Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating

36. Performance Finishes & Fabrics Soil Release Some soil release finishes provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal. Stain Repellent - Ability of fabric to resist wetting & staining by water.   Stain Resistance - A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.

37. Performance Finishes & Fabrics Flame Resistant- Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. • Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. • A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses. Flame Retardant- A chemical applied to a fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time of production, which significantly reduces a fabric's flammability.

38. Performance Finishes & Fabrics • WrinkleResistant- fabric that does not wrinkle easily • Crease Resistant - resistant to normal wrinkling.

39. Innovations in Textiles • Microfibers • Polor fleece • Bamboo fabric-biodegradable • Lyocel (Tencel)- Made from wood pulp from trees grown in replanted forests.

40. Innovations in Textiles • Biocotton- developed fiber that is non-allergic. • Nanotechnology- molecular structure of the chemicals used to form fibers has been altered. • Micro Encapsulation Particles are filled with active ingredients and applied to the fabric or garment. Examples- moisturizers, insect repellents

41. Green Fabric Finishes • Reduce the health and environmental impact by lowering the amount of chemicals and other harmful substances used in the finishing process.

42. Smart Fabrics • E-textiles (Electronic Textiles) • Fabrics that enable digital components to be embedded. • Wearable technology