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Wave height H. crest. Wave amplitude A. SWL. H = A/2. Water depth h. trough. Wave period T. wavelength. l. x. t. y. u/U 0. y. 1. V P. u/U 0. -1. u/U 0. 1. u = 0. u/U 0 = 1. 1/cosh(kh). v/V 0. u = 0. 1. 0. y. V P. v/V 0. v/V 0 = 1 + y/h. v = 0. y/h. -. v/V 0.
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Wave height H crest Wave amplitude A SWL H = A/2 Water depth h trough Wave period T wavelength l
y u/U0 y 1 VP u/U0 -1 u/U0 1 u = 0 u/U0= 1 1/cosh(kh) v/V0 u = 0 1 0 y VP v/V0 v/V0= 1 + y/h v = 0 y/h - v/V0 u/U0 -1 1/cosh(kh) v = 0 v = 0