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Waves

Waves. Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves Other Water Waves. Parts of Waves. Crest, trough, wavelength Wave Height (H) Wave Steepness Period (T). Motion of Water Molecules. Deep Water Waves. A wave in water depth > one-half wavelength

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Waves

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  1. Waves • Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves • Deep Water Waves • Shallow Water Waves • Other Water Waves

  2. Parts of Waves • Crest, trough, wavelength • Wave Height (H) • Wave Steepness • Period (T)

  3. Motion of Water Molecules

  4. Deep Water Waves • A wave in water depth > one-half wavelength • Sea vs. swell • What determines wave height?

  5. Shallow Water Waves • Waves in water depth less than 1/20of wavelength • Often associated with surf zone • Variety of surf depends on shape of bottom • Plunging • Spilling • Surging

  6. spilling surging plunging

  7. Wave Speed • Deep water wave • Speed = 1.56T • Shallow water wave • Speed = 3.1 times square root of water depth

  8. Wave Refraction • Bending of wave crests • Waves approach beach at angle • One part of crest reaches shallow water first and slows down • Waves become more parallel to shore

  9. Wave Refraction

  10. Refraction along irregular coast • note distribution of wave energy • most of energy strikes headlands • causes erosion of headland, deposition in bays • coastal straightening occurs

  11. Tsunamis • disturbance of ocean floor • speed greater than 700 km/hr • wavelength greater than 200 km • crests can exceed 30 m as reach shore

  12. Information on tsunamis • http://nctr.pmel.noaa.gov/

  13. Internal waves

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