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Soft ripened cheeses. Queso Diego Tuesday, October 16, 2012 Laurie Gerber. Kinds of Cheese (American Cheese Society Classification). Fresh cheeses – chevre , cottage cheese, mozzarella Soft-ripened cheeses – brie, camembert Semi-soft cheeses – jack, havarti , port- salut
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Soft ripened cheeses Queso Diego Tuesday, October 16, 2012 Laurie Gerber
Kinds of Cheese(American Cheese Society Classification) • Fresh cheeses – chevre, cottage cheese, mozzarella • Soft-ripened cheeses – brie, camembert • Semi-soft cheeses – jack, havarti, port-salut • Firm/hard cheeses – cheddar, gouda, swiss, parmesan • Blue cheeses – roquefort, stilton, gorgonzola • Pasta filata cheeses – mozzarella, provolone • Natural rind cheeses – Stilton, Mimolette • Washed rind – Muenster, Taleggio • Processed cheeses – American, Laughing Cow
Appearance of soft-ripened cheese 2012 1000 1000BC AD 2000BC 1500 - Cheddar 879 - Gorgonzola 1791 - Camembert 1900 - Cambozola • 2000 BC - First “secure” evidence of cheesemaking • Sumerian cuneiform • Egyptian tomb murals 700s - Brie– Charlemagne places standing order
What makes it a soft ripened cheese? • Soft – high moisture curds • Primary ripening (acidification) with bacterial culture • Shaped in molds/hoops but not pressed • Secondary ripening with fungal mold – from the outside in • “Bloomy” or wrinkly exterior • Perishable – brief time window of perfection • All about flavor – not a milk preservation method
Types and styles • Fully ripened (brie, camembert) • Thin profile enables full paste ripening before spoilage • Chalky core (humbolt fog, grattepaille) • Thick profile retards mold ripening of center • Surface ripened • Lower moisture inhibits spoilage as cheese ages/dries • Cow, goat, sheep and mixed-milk varieties • Majority from France, some in Spain, Italy, Germany, US, UK • Other common features: • Vegetable ash – encourages mold, discourages bacteria. Most common on goat cheese.
Soft ripened cheese production • Cultures • generally mesophillic bacterial culture • Two or three strains produce diacetyl giving buttery flavor: • Leuconostocmesenteroides ssp. Cremoris • Lactococcuslactissubsp. biovardiacetylactis • LactococcuslactissspLactis ? • Two types of white mold – in starter or spray on • Penicilliumcandidum • Geotrichumcandidum • One blue mold • Penicilliumroqueforti • Ripening temperature: Low (75°) to moderate (90°) • Milk ripening time: Varies – 1 – 24 hours • Rennet: small quantity – few drops – 1.2t/gallon • Curd cutting: Large pieces - Large cubes – slices – no cutting • Stirring: none • Cooking/washing: none • Shaping: Drain in mold – no pressing • Salting: Surface salting • Ageing: brief – 10 days – 6 weeks • Shelf life: Short, perishable
About the (fungal) molds • Often used in combination • Equal amounts or about 2:1 • Penicilliumcandidum • Geotrichumcandidum
Penicilliumroqueforti • Blue mold • Stilton -> • Also possible to use as surface mold as in Monte Enebro
About butteriness • Brie – whole milk cheese • Secondary ripening and diacetyl, not high fat • Fat content • Brie – 60% (of dry matter); 31% of cheese • Double cream – 60-75% (of dry matter); • Triple cream – >75% (of dry matter); 39% of the cheese • Because brie is high moisture – lower fat than cheddar
Ripening/Ageing • Mold growth is aerobic • Ripening from outside->in • Desirable developments • Bloomy rind • Proteolysis/lipolysis (transformation of paste from chalky/firm to supple/oozy) • Flavor development: savory, mushroomy, pungent • Undesirable developments • Pathogens (salmonella, listeria) • Pink or black mold • Ammonia and sulphur (overripe/spoiled)
Examples – Provided by Mary PalmerTaste Artisan Cheese! • Brie de Meaux Whole cow’s milk France • Explorateur Triple cream cow’s milk France • Humboldt Fog Goat’s milk Ash midline and exterior dusting Sonoma, California • Monte Enebro Goat’s milk Blue mold ripened Spain