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Fashion Design. The Role of Fashion Designers. Create and produce designs for a particular target markt They use design principles, fabrics and construction techniques Some designers gain world recognition Others work for brand names or department store labels (private label). Licensing.
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The Role of Fashion Designers • Create and produce designs for a particular target markt • They use design principles, fabrics and construction techniques • Some designers gain world recognition • Others work for brand names or department store labels (private label)
Licensing • Some designers create accessories, home décor items and fragrances • Designers such as Tommy Hilfiger license the use of their name and trademark to companies to produce items for them. • In return the designer receives “royalties” or a percent from each purchase
Collections • At least twice a year, a designer turns out a collection – a group of clothes designed and produced for a specific season, often inspired by a specific theme • Collections may also be subdivided by price-range (i.e. Armani Collection or Couture vs A/X Armani Exchange • Designers create hundreds of designs before they are narrowed down for a collection
Apparel Industry Designers & Stylists • Different than high-end designers, apparel industry designers work for a garment manufacturer but never gain recognition • They may create “knock-offs” of high end designs and work with stylists to modify designs using less expensive fabric, details and embellishments, to make them more affordable
The Design Process • 1. Finding inspiration (i.e. sports, music, current events, celebrity influence, art etc.) • 2. Sketching Designs on croquis • 3. Refining sketches or rendering using CAD software • 4. Draping – working with fabric on a dress form (mannequin) • 5. Pattern Drafting
The Design Process • 1. Finding inspiration (i.e. sports, music, current events, celebrity influence, art etc.) • 2. Sketching Designs on croquis • 3. Refining sketches or rendering using CAD software • 4. Draping – working with fabric on a dress form (mannequin) 5. Selecting Fabric and Trim (fabric shows, working with textile mills, knitters etc.)
The Design Process Cont’d 6. Pattern Drafting – designing the pattern 7.Creating samples in muslin (cheap coarse cotton) and trying samples on a model 8. Revision to pattern
The Design Process Cont’d 6. Pattern Drafting – designing the pattern 7.Creating samples in muslin (cheap coarse cotton) and trying samples on a model 8. Revision to pattern
The Design Process Cont’d 6. Pattern Drafting – designing the pattern 7.Creating samples in muslin (cheap coarse cotton) and trying samples on a model 8. Revision to pattern
The Design Process Cont’d 6. Pattern Drafting – designing the pattern 7.Creating samples in muslin (cheap coarse cotton) and trying samples on a model 8. Revision to pattern
The Design Process Cont’d 6. Pattern Drafting – designing the pattern 7.Creating samples in muslin (cheap coarse cotton) and trying samples on a model 8. Revision to pattern
Haute (High) Couture (Dressmaking) • Style today does not = high prices • The highest level of exclusive and expensive designs are called haute couture • Many still created in designer’s ateliers • Began in Paris – dressmaker Rose Bertin started sending dolls called fashion babies dressed in copies of Queen Marie Antoinette’s clothing to London and around the world
Charles Worth • Established the House of Worth in London • House of Worth existed for almost 100 years • May have been the 1st couturier to put his own name on labels • Many wealthy and prominent clients • 1st designer to create his own fragrance • 1st to present designs on live models (fashion show)
Rise of American Fashion • During WWII many French fashion houses struggled or had to close • America’s rising designers gained esteem • Today the U.S. Japan, Italy, England have influential fashion industries and “Fashion Weeks” to show ready-to-wear and couture lines (fall/winter & spring/summer)
Rise of American Fashion • During WWII many French fashion houses struggled or had to close • America’s rising designers gained esteem • Today the U.S. Japan, Italy, England have influential fashion industries and “Fashion Weeks” to show ready-to-wear and couture lines (fall/winter & spring/summer) • Buyers place orders for the collections
Giorgio Armani b. 1936 Known for unconstructed jackets fine menswear, linen, women’s suits with menswear detailing and more affordable and stylish A/X
Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) Born and raised in Spain Trained many other designers including orreges, Ungaro, and Givenchy Known for narrow rolled collars, evening gowns with a slight train, cocoon coats
Oscar de la Renta • Born in Dominican Republic • Known for evening gowns • Very luxurious fabrics • Elegant feminine daywear • Designs for many celebrities and royalty
Gabrielle ‘Coco” Chanel • (1883-1971) • Designed the classic “little black dress” • Slacks (pants) for women • Boxy, collarless jackets and suits trimmed with braid • House of Chanel today run by Karl Lagerfeld • Famous fragrances Chanel No. 5, No. 17
Jean-Paul Gaultier • (b 1952) • Began as an assistant to Pierre Cardin • Known for unusual, controversial and expensive ready-to-wear clothing • Inspired by street fashion and music (designed costumes for Madonna)
Gianni Versace • (1946-1997) • Sophisticated and elegant designs for men and women • Shot in 1997 • Also designed costumes for film, ballet and opera • Versace now run by his sister Donatella
Calvin Klein • (b 1942) • - Famous for jeans • Simple casualwear • Architectural lines • Natural fabrics • Earthtones and neutrals • Known for controversial advertising campaigns
Future Outlook Fashion design will always be a great source of income. New fashions are always in demand and always will be. Celebrities are always looking for new designs, to make them stand out from the crowd. New fashion ideas will always be appreciated.
Working Hours Depending on personal preference, fashion designers can work for a company, coming up with new ideas along side other designers, with a guaranteed wage. Or, you can go it alone and become a self-employed designer. You’re not guaranteed a wage, and it’s a lot of hard work, but if you create a good enough design, you’re in for a lot of profit.
Risk of Injury Supposing you know how to work a sewing machine, and take all the safety precautions when using the necessary tools, the risk of injury in the fashion industry is fairly low. However, it is a fast paced job and if you’re not careful, you could easily loose focus and cause some damage to yourself.
Related Occupations Another occupation that I would consider from the fashion industry is a fashion reporter. Fashion reporters are responsible for the write up of the latest designs and ideas, witnessed first hand from the runway. This interests me a lot because fashion and writing are the two things I love most of all.
Resources/Citations • Official website for the London College of Fashion: http://www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/ • Bridges website: https://accesscdn.bridges.ca/auth/login.do?locale=en_CA