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SWAN wave modelling for Palmyra Atoll, equatorial Pacific Ocean:

SWAN wave modelling for Palmyra Atoll, equatorial Pacific Ocean: Understanding the depositional environments of beachrock. Kim Owen Dr. Dan Zwartz Dr. Gavin Dunbar Dr. John Collen. http://asramp10.blogspot.com/2010_04_01_archive.html. Outline. Palmyra Atoll Beachrock SWAN

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SWAN wave modelling for Palmyra Atoll, equatorial Pacific Ocean:

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  1. SWAN wave modelling for Palmyra Atoll, equatorial Pacific Ocean: Understanding the depositional environments of beachrock Kim Owen Dr. Dan Zwartz Dr. Gavin Dunbar Dr. John Collen http://asramp10.blogspot.com/2010_04_01_archive.html

  2. Outline • Palmyra Atoll • Beachrock • SWAN • Input methods • Results plots • Conclusions

  3. Palmyra Atoll (after Collen et al., 2009)

  4. Beachrock at Palmyra • Representative of paleo-beach environment • Intertidal formation • Bimodal grain size • Coarse sediments in currently low energy environments

  5. Radiocarbon dating 797 +/- 75 cal. yrs BP 845 +/- 76 cal. yrs BP 644 +/- 46 cal. yrs BP Modern 862 +/- 74 cal. yrs BP 1247 +/- 56 cal. yrs BP 933+/- 58 cal. yrs BP Cement: 631 +/- 46 cal. yrs BP

  6. SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) • INPUT • Bathymetry • Friction • Wave Parameters K. Owen 07.10.10

  7. SWAN • INPUT • Bathymetry • Friction Factor • Wave Parameters Where r = bed roughness length a =bottom orbital amplitude K. Owen 07.10.10

  8. SWAN • INPUT • Bathymetry • Friction Factor • Wave Parameters Tolman, 2002: User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH-III version 2.22. NOAA / NWS / NCEP / MMAB Technical Note 222, 133 pp. K. Owen 07.10.10

  9. Results Summer trade winds K. Owen 07.10.10

  10. ResultsWinter swell K. Owen 07.10.10

  11. Results+1 m sea level K. Owen 07.10.10

  12. Summary and Conclusions • Beachrock forms from large, infrequent events. • Need for long term climate data from the central Pacific. • Impact of climate change on reef sedimentation.

  13. Acknowledgements Victoria University of Wellington, Kathleen Stewart Foundation Scholarship, The Nature Conservatory, U.S. Fish and Wildlife, Dan Zwartz, Gavin Dunbar, and John Collen

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