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“ Amphora Wines (talha): The Details that make all the difference ”

Discover the ancient winemaking technique of talha wines, where small details create authentic and unique flavors. Learn how these wines face challenges in the commercial market and the importance of preserving their traditional methods. Explore the marketing strategies and the men and women who craft these great wines.

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“ Amphora Wines (talha): The Details that make all the difference ”

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  1. “Amphora Wines(talha): The Details that make all the difference” Manuel Malfeito Ferreira Mkrtich Harutyunyan Virgílio Loureiro Higher Institute of Agronomy University of Lisbon mmalfeito@isa.ulisboa.pt Terracotta and Wine Impruneta, 24 November 2018

  2. Part I “Small” details that make all the difference

  3. The“Roman”Vineyard - Described by Columella (II century BC) - Indigenous red and white vines Roupeiro, Antão Vaz, … Trincadeira, Castelão, … Moreto (pied franc!!!!) - Adapted to the hottest region of Portugal! Moreto (Pied franc) 2018 Foto: Luis Vicente Elías 2013

  4. A two thousand year old wine-making tecnique • De-stalking by hand • Little or no SO2 • No artificial yeasts • Maceration on skins(two/day) • Temperature controlled by pouring water over talha • Prolonged Fermentation (3 weeks) • Wine on “mother” till January • Covered with Olive oil • Filtred with Carex grass • Aeration in alguidar • Ready to drink • Consumed at end of Summer Foto: Óscar Gato José (Giuseppe) Piteira with a junça (Cyperus - carex) filter Mestre Tavares de S. Pedro do Corval, (séc. XXI)

  5. "Small" details that highlight Authenticity! And up until today, authenticity is the basis of modern reputation on National level however…

  6. Part II "Big" detailsthatanticipatedisaster

  7. “Amphora Wines (talha): The victims of commercial success» Manuel Malfeito Ferreira Mkrtich Harutyunyan Virgílio Loureiro Higher Institute of Agronomy University of Lisbon mmalfeito@isa.ulisboa.pt Terracotta and Wine Impruneta, November 2020

  8. Problem Consumers love authenticity but prefer commercial wines. Why?? Florence “Sustainability of Well-Being International Forum”. 2015: Food for Sustainability and not just food, FlorenceSWIF2015 The consumer loves typicality but prefers international wine Fabio Boncinelli, Leonardo Casini, Caterina Contini, Franvesca Gerini, Gabriele Scozzafava Dipartimento di Gestione dei Sistemi Agrari, Alimentari e Forestali, P.le delle Cascine, 18 – 50144 Florence Agriculture and Agricultural Science Procedia 8 ( 2016 ) 236 – 242

  9. Because: Thereis a "global taste" determinedbythe ancestral preference for sweetness Would it be possible to prove it? We can try using the data from one of the most famous wine contests in the world : Mundus Vini (Germania)

  10. Chemical Analyses of the Great Gold Wines Sweetness/softness Tendency “Mundus Vini”

  11. Descriptive Analysis of Gold and Great Gold

  12. Probability of getting a Grand Gold Logit model (Ross and Malfeito-Ferreira, unpublished)

  13. “Profile”of wines preferred by the judges of Mundus Vini Reds: A wine with a deep ruby color, with an intense and complex aroma, with notes of dried fruit, vanilla, spicy, mouth with well integrated tannins and soft on the palate - A true great red! Whites: A bright yellow-green wine, with a fruity and floral scent, notes of pineapple, maracujá, kiwi, guava and jasmine, with a complex aftertaste associated with a noticeable mouth volume with a soft and pleasant finish - Elegance at its highest expression! But this is…

  14. …the complete opposite of authentic talha wines!!! • Frequently turbid • Straw-coloured whites (orange / albino wines) • Light reds (claret, petrolium) • Discreet, non-fruity odors difficult to describe with the approved lexicon, so they are considered oxidized, reduced, funky, ...Astringent, sour, bitter

  15. Temptations Adapt Talha wines to the mainstream's way of thinking: In the vineyard: • High productivity • Foreign vines to obtain deep reds with high alcohol content • In the cellar: • Aging in barrique after fermentation in talha • Fermentation in steel at controlled temperature after elevage in talha • Automation of processes etc., etc., etc.

  16. The talha simply becomes a container like the barrique - Seeing the talha like a barrique - Seeing terracotta like wood “Woody flavours, vanilla, smokey or spicy?” “Flavours of clay, fired or un-fired or of cement?” Dolium – ~1000 L Amphora – ~80 L

  17. The Result The wine is no longer talha but ... just “made in Talha” Talha wine becomes a commodity ... and a commodity is always cheap! Intermarché November 2018

  18. Part III ”Big" details: thewomenandmenbehindtheGreat wines

  19. Marketing Strategies • Obey the standardisation of the "market” …......Easy road • Explain the differences of talha wines to consumers?......Hard target

  20. From experience to practice: a new test method! - Easy to explain - Quick to learn - Considers wine as a symbol of civilization (culture, anthropology, gastronomy, …) Using responses based on emotions Loureiro, Brasil and Malfeito-Ferreira (2016). Beverages, 2(1),6 http://www.mdpi.com/2306-5710/2/1/6

  21. Two opposing Styles High attractiveness and disappointment “Smells more than it tastes” Low attractiveness and high in surprise “Tastes more than it smells” Deep reds Open yellow whites Intense "sweet" aroma Intense and soft taste Short finale Worsens with time Open, brown Reds Straw-coloured Whites Aroma, discreet and bad / defective Astringent, bitter and acidic in the mouth Long Finale Improves with timeopen Key to a quick understanding:"Cognitive dissonance" between smell and taste” The surprise effect"

  22. And after with food?  Everything changes! And then with conviviality? Everything changes very fast! Il canto polifónico: a tradition from the Caucasus to Alentejo (Adega Velha, Mourão)

  23. Authentic talha Wine In contrast to the impersonal and merely hedonistic perspective of simply drinking a commodity: It is a sustainable socio-cultural combination of landscape, art, techniques, sharing, human warmth, ... A Major symbol of Mediterranean civilization

  24. “Amphora Wines (talha): a story of success in the perseverance of authenticity” Manuel Malfeito Ferreira, Mkrtich Harutmanyan, Virgílio Loureiro, José Piteira, Manuel Bio, Ana Bio, Luís Bio, Joana Barradas, Marisa Capucho, Ana Capucho, Paula Piteira, Carolina Piteira, Enrico Pignone And many others!!! Terracotta and Wine Impruneta, November 2022

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