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Explore the progression of photography from its invention in 1839 to contemporary styles like fashion and erotic photography. Learn about influential photographers and agencies such as Magnum, and discover the impact of photography on art movements like Bauhaus. Discover the transformation of fashion photography and its relation to advertisement. Delve into the world of erotic photography and its artistic expression. Witness how photography has become an integral part of installations, reflecting societal norms and individual identities. Experience the diverse facets of photography through historical breakthroughs, iconic images, and contemporary interpretations.
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PHOTOGRAPHY extended media MA. Vesna Srnić
Contents • A brief history of photography • Agency “Magnum” • Fashion photography • “High-fashion model look” • Erotic photography • Photography as a part of installation
Invented in 1839 (daguerrotype) Photorealism: artists almost “lost their jobs” (photo.portraits-quicker, cheaper) 1920´s photography became creative media Laslo Moholy-Nagy imports it at “Bauhaus” (art school, Germany) Effort-experimental and abstract visual expression Photomontages creators: Kurt Schwiters, El Lissitzky, Willi Baumeister, Max Ernst Man Ray makes photograms and uses solarization A brief history of photography • Henri Cartier-Bresson, “Place de l'Europe. Gare Saint Lazare”, Paris, 1932 (cover photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977)
1940´s and 50´s: pure photography and naturalism (Bauhaus) 1960´s Robert Rauschenberg creates complex combined technics Interventions: scratching and painting on emulsion; colouring negatives; solarisation;christalisation Combined technics and practice of conceptual and post-conceptual age (1970´s and 80´s) Željko Jerman, interventions on photo paper, 1975
Huge influence on contemporary photography:”Magnum” (US) -Edward Weston (“Pepper”,1930), Henri Cartier Bresson, Robert Capa, David Seymour Documentary photo., still nature, portraits, landscapes Agency “Magnum” E.Weston,”Pepper”,1930 (Susan Sontag, photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977)
Fashion photography Richard Avedon,Irving Penn (tend to atelier or studio ambience) After 1945 in US: Englishmen introduce natural ambience, and gather around “Vogue” magazine-Helmuth Newton, David Montgomery, David Bailey • Richard Avedon: “Dovima with elephants”, Evening dress by Christian Dior, Paris, 1955 (photo from http://www.artnet.fr/)
“High-fashion model look” • /www.vogue.co.uk/ • Fashion photograph seeks: transformation, acting ability and photogenie (mental picture as autoerotic capacity) • Top models: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Craford, Claudia Schiffer • Advertisment photography very often includes fashion, erotics and humorous aspects • Christian Dior, “Flamenco”, 2003 (model: Adina Fohlin) • (http://www.vogue.co.uk) • Elie Saab, • “Vogue”, 2003 • (model: Karolina Kurkova) • (http://www.vogue.co.uk)
The best creators and fashion houses: Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurant, Donna Karan, Viviane Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gucci, Givenchy, Rudolph Valentino,Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Prada itd.
Contemporary photography: stresses sexuality as total denudeness Not as Nude any more, it is without emphasised proportionsand transcendence, just as nakedness, sex affiliation, it emphasises one`s own sex favorisation Erotic photography • Stephan Lupino: COCO, 1989 (Sexualy confused person) (photo: Courtesy of the Artist)
Croatian "Mapplethorpe", the world famous photographer Stephan Lupino: "Tina & fish" (1995)- is also a "camp", because Tina wears glass bra, two circular aquariums with fish, but without irony, here the woman is simply eroticly feminine and selfsufficient. • Stefan Lupino: “Tina&Fish”, 1995.
Photography as a part of installation • Ambiguity of woman individuum is artisticly presented in Croatian artist Vlasta Delimar`s opus (installation “No name", 1993) • Personal appearance strenghtens her not only as sexualy conscious artist, but as mother, lover,wife, housewife, saint as well... • Installation "No name", 1993 ( mirror, photography,paint, textile) (Photo: Courtesy of the Artist)