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Assignment 3 - Solution

Assignment 3 - Solution. Assignment 3 - Grades. Wave Breaking. The release of energy derived from the wind, along a narrow coastal zone - geomorphic work done by wind, really, translated through medium of water. Wave Breaking. In the next several lectures, we’ll cover the following topics:

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Assignment 3 - Solution

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  1. Assignment 3 - Solution

  2. Assignment 3 - Grades

  3. Wave Breaking The release of energy derived from the wind, along a narrow coastal zone - geomorphic work done by wind, really, translated through medium of water.

  4. Wave Breaking In the next several lectures, we’ll cover the following topics: Nearshore Wave Breaking Surf Zone Wave Decay Set-up and Set-down Wave Runup Infragravity Water Motions

  5. Wave Breaking

  6. Show videos of Wave Break Vilano beach movie Steamer’s Lane movie

  7. Wave Breaking - Mathematically As waves shoal into shallow water: Wave steepness: Something has to give!

  8. Wave Breaking – When it occurs?. Common misconception – “breaking is a result of waves dragging on the bottom, then trip forward due to friction” – NO! Friction plays a very small role – computer simulations that completely neglect friction can still produce breaking waves. A wave breaks when it becomes overly steep, because the velocity of water particles in the wave crest exceed the velocity of the wave form!

  9. Style of Breaking Schematic and traces of high-speed photos illustrating different types of wave breaking behavior. But what causes each one of the different breaking styles?

  10. Style of Breaking - Illustrated Spilling waves (flat beaches) Plunging waves (moderate beaches) First observations recognized that beach slope and wave steepness had something to do with this... Surging waves (steep beaches)

  11. Iribarren Number x xb < 0.4 x< 0.5 This ratio of beach steepness to wave steepness has a deep-water form and a nearshore form. 0.5 < x< 3.3 0.4 < xb < 2.0 x> 3.3 xb > 2.0 From Battjes, 1974

  12. Wave Break Style vs. Ir. # Lab Results from a Wave Tank

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